7 


§xmt  ai#  tijt  §fllkir 


I 


GREECE, 

AND  THE 

OLDEN  HORN. 


Bt 

STEPHEN  OLIN,  D.D.  1L.D., 

tATK  PRESIDENT  OF  THE  WESLETAN  UNITBRSITT. 


WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION, 

BY  REY.  JOHN  M‘CLLNTOCK,  D.D.  . 


NEW  YOKE: 
CARLTON  & PHILLIPS, 
200  MULBERRY  STREET. 
1854. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1854,  by 
JULIA  M.  OLIN 

In  the  Clerk^s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of 
New  York. 


BTIRaOTYPKD  BT 

THOMAS  B.  SMITH, 
216  William  Street,  N.  Y. 


PRINTED  BT 

JOHN  A.  GRAY, 
93  & 97  Cliff  St. 


t 


TO  THE  FRIEJfDS 

OF 

J h c 31)  e 3 1 e y {)  ii  ll  11  i b c l'  ,s  i t y . 

THIS  VOLUME, 

WRITTEN  BY  A PEn'fOREVER  LAID  ASIDE, 

rcspectfulla?  tietifCcitetJ. 

A CORDIAL  WELCOME  FROM  THEM,  MAY  GIVE  IT  POWER 
TO  AID  AN  INSTITUTION,  FOR  WBICH  A SAINTED  ’ 
SPIRIT  LABORED  AND  PRAYED. 


|ntr0htction 


The  work  now  presented  to  the  reader  was  left  in  manuscript 
by  the  lamented  author.  Ilis  “ Travels  in  the  East,”  which  has 
been  for  some  years  before  the  public,  has  gained  the  rank  of  a 
standard  work  upon  the  lands  of  the  Bible ; indeed,  it  is  in  many 
respects  the  best  work  on  those  countries,  for  general  readers,  that 
has  yet  appeared.  This  is  eminently  true  with  regard  to  Dr.  Olin’s 
account  of  Egypt,  which  brings  together  the  best  account  of  the 
policy  of  Mehemet  Ali  and  of  its  results  in  the  condition  of  the 
country,  that  can  be  found  anywhere,  to  our  knowledge,  within 
the  same  compass. 

The  present  volume  is  characterized  by  the  same  excellent 
qualities  that  have  marked  all  Dr.  Olin’s  writings.  His  mind  was 
singularly  comprehensive;  but,  at  the  same  time,  had  a rare  faculty 
of  accurate  and  minute  observation;  and  these  qualifications, 
combined  with  a severe  and  conscientious  truthfulness,  fitted  him 
admirably  to  write  books  of  travel.  He  does  not,  indeed,  give  us 
romance ; but  reality  is  better ; he  tells  what  he  saw,  not  what 
he  dreamed.  It  is  true,  that  amid  associations  such  as  those  that 
haunt  the  hills  of  Athens,  his  calm  mind  grows  imaginative,  and, 
to  use  his  own  language,  “ finds  it  easy  to  repeople  scenes  that 
have  been  consecrated  by  the  highest  examples  of  genius  and 
virtue;”  but  his  judgment,  ever  cool  and  collected,  does  not  fail 
him  under  any  degree  of  intellectual  excitement,  and  his  words 
may  always  be  taken  for  true  in  their  full  meaning. 

It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  these  pages  were  not 
prepared  for  the  press  by  Dr.  Olin.  It  cannot  be  expected,  there- 


Vlll 


Introduction. 


fore,  that  they  will  show  the  fineness  of  finish,  or  even  the  full- 
ness of  detail  that  would  have  been  given  them  by  his  final  re- 
vision. 

The  countries  of  which  they  treat  have  always  been  full  of  in- 
terest ; but  now  men’s  eyes,  in  all  lands,  are  turned  with  straining 
anxiety  to  “ Greece  and  the  Golden  Horn.”  Within  the  terri- 
tory indicated  by  those  titles,  will  be  found  the  earliest  seats  of 
empire,  the  scenes  of  God’s  nearest  approach  to  man,  the  ground 
hallowed  by  the  feet  of  the  Saviour,  the  sites  of  the  Apocalyptic 
churches — in  a word,  all  the  sacred  localities  of  the  Bible.  W’^ithin 
that  territory  the  noblest  races  and  the  highest  acts  of  mankind 
liave  originated  and  flourished.  It  has  been  the  seat  of  more 
history  than  any  other  portion  of  the  earth’s  surface ; and  this 
day,  its  strangest  history,  perhaps,  is  enacting  before  our  eyes. 
The  Mussulman  and  the  Giaour  have  often  met  in  deadly  combat ; 
for  ages  there  has  been  hereditary  strife  between  them.  It  has 
been  thought  that  prophecy,  and  policy,  and  wisdom  have  all 
alike  called  for  the  overthrow  of  the  Ottoman,  and  the  rescue  of 
the  holy  places  from  his  sacrilegious  hands.  But  now  a new 
crusade  is  preached  within  the  coasts  of  England  and  through 
the  valleys  of  France,— not  to  drive  the  Turk  from  Byzantium 
and  Jerusalem,  but  to  keep  him  on  his  tlirone,  and  to  preserve 
the  integrity  of  his  dominion.  The  Czar  is,  by  profession,  a 
Christian  monarch ; the  faith  of  his  people  is  that  wiiich  for- 
merly w'as  preached  in  St.  Sophia;  but  France  and  England 
unite  with  the  Sultan  against  the  Czar.  How  is  this  change  to 
be  accounted  for  ? 

The  reason  is  not  far  to  seek.  The  old  names  do  not  mean  the 
old  things.  The  Czar  affects  to  consider  Turkey  moribund,  and 
wishes  to  be  in  at  the  death  and  take  the  lion’s  share  of  the  spoil. 
To  secure  his  ends  he  has  exhausted  every  artifice  of  fraud  and 
dissimulation,  and  now  resorts  to  force  of  arms,  seeking  to  call 
out  the  fiercest  ferocity  of  his  savage  hordes  by  baptizing  his  am- 
bition with  a Christian  title,  and  declaring,  unblushingly,  to  all 
the  world,  that  he  is  fighting  the  old  hereditary  battle  of  the 
Cross  against  the  Crescent.  In  all  this  he  commits  at  once  a 


Introduction. 


IX 


great  mistake  and  a great  crime.  His  mistake  is  in  supposing 
Turkey  to  be  dying  at  the  very  time  when  she  shows  a most  un- 
conquerable vitality,  and  is,  indeed,  taking  to  herself  new  powers 
and  a new  lease  of  life,  by  dropping  her  old  and  worn-out  forms 
of  life.  One  great  principle  of  political  vitality  it  ha?  always  had 
— a principle  which  will  prevent  too  rapid  changes,  and  at  the 
same  time  make  all  needful  changes  possible  without  revolution — 
namely,  municipal  privileges  and  a free  provincial  distribution  of 
authority.  Neither  in  extent  of  dominion,  in  resources,  nor  in 
spirit,  is  Turkey  either  dead  or  dying.  Michelsen  gives  the  fol- 
lowing statistics : 

“ The  Ottoman  Empire  extends  over  a part  of  Europe,  Asia,  and 
Africa,  embracing  an  area  of  about  913,000  square  miles. 

“ Including  the  tributary  provinces,  the  population  is  as  follows : 


EUROPEAN  TURKEY  (rUMILI). 


Thrace  . . . 

. 1,800,000 

Bulgaria  . . * . 

. 4,000,000 

Moldavia  .... 

. 1,400,000 

Wallachia  .... 

. . 2,000,000 

Bosnia  and  Herzegowina  . 

. . 1,400,000 

Rumelia  .... 

. 2,600,000 

Servia  ... 

. 1,600,000 

Islands  of  the  Archipelago . 

. 700,000 

15,500,000 


ASIATIC  TURKEY  (aNADOLU). 

Asia  Minor 10,700,000 

Syrians,  Mesopotamia  and  Kurdistan  4,450,000 

Arabia,  (Mecca,  Medina,  Habesh)  . 900,000 

16,050,000 


AFRICAN  TURKEY  (GARB). 

Egypt  . 2,000,000 

Tripolis,  Fezzan,  Tunis  . . 1,800,000 

3,800,000 


35,350,000 


X 


Introduction. 


Dividing  the  population  into  races  and  tribes,  the  result  is  as 
follows ; — 


Races  or  Tribes. 

In  Europe. 

Ottomans 

1,100,000 

Slavonians 

7,200,000 

Rumanians 

4,000,000 

Arnauts 

1,500,000 

Greeks 

1,000,000 

Armenians 

400,000 

Jews 

70,000 

Tartars 

230,000 

Arabs 

Syrians  and 

Chaldeans 

Druses 

Kurds 

Turkomans 

In  Asia.  In  Africa.  Total. 

10,700,000  11,800,000 

7,200,000 

4,000,000 

1,600,000 

1,000,000  2,000,000 

2.000. 000  2,400,000, 

100.000  170,000 

230,000 

900.000  3,800,000  4,700,000 

23^,000  235,000 

26.000  25,000 

1.000. 000  1,000,000 

90.000  90,000 


16,600,000  16,060,000  3,800,000 


36,350,000 


Taking  the  population  according  to  religious  creeds,  the  result  is ; 


Creeds.  In  Europe.  In  Asia.  In  Africa.  Total. 

Mohammedan  8,800,000  12,950,000  3,800,000  20,660,000 

Greeks  and 

Armenians  11,870,000  2,360,000  13,730,000 

Ro.  Catholic  260,000  640,000  900,000 

Jews  70,000  100,000  170,000 


16,600,000  16,050,000  3,800,000  36,360,000 


Here  is  a so-called  Christian  population  of  fifteen  millions ; and 
besides  these,  there  are  foreign  Protestants  to  the  number  of 
many  thousands,  with  Protestant  missionaries  from  England  and 
America  planted  in  the  most  important  centres,  and  engaged  in 
spreading  evangelical  Christianity.  Tlie  simple  question  necessary 
to  be  answered,  in  order  to  decide  on  which  side  lies  the  Cliru- 
tianity  in  this  quarrel,  is,  wdiether  these  Christian  populations 
and  Protestant  missionaries  can  enjoy  greater  privileges  and  lib- 
erties under  the  Czar  than  under  the  Sultan  ? Tlie  claims  of  the 


Introduction. 


XI 


Czar  are  maintained  by  some  parties  in  England ; and  even  in 
America,  Bishop  Southgate  at  least  has  declared  his  “ every  feeling 
of  truth  and  equity  convinces  him  that  the  claim  of  Russia  is  just 
and  moderate,  and  that  it  ought  to  be  sustained.”  Let  us  see. 

It  is  believed  that  no  copy  of  the  Scriptures  has  been  printed 
in  the  vernacular  language  in  Russia  since  1823.  Alexandek 
favored  -the  Bible  Society,  and  even  established  presses  to  print 
the  sacred  book ; but  Nicholas  has  changed  all  that,  and  now, 
according  to  a statement  made  by  Lord  Shaftesbury  in  his  place 
in  Parliament,  no  printing  presses  are  permitted  for  printing  the 
Bible  in  modern  Russia^  nor  is  a single  copy  of  the  Bible  in  that 
language  allowed  to  circulate.  There  are  two  millions  of  Jews  in 
Russia,  but  the  Czar  will  not  permit  a single  copy  of  the  Hebrew 
Bible  to  pass  his  frontiers  for  their  use.  His  policy  is  to  keep  his 
people  everywhere  in  the  worse  than  Asiatic  superstition  that 
characterizes  his  so-called  Greek  church,  and  to  let  them  know 
nothing  better  than  a form  of  worship,  compared  with  which 
Jezebel’s  worship  of  Astarte  could  almost  be  called  rational  and 
respectable.  He  represses  evangelical  missions  with  an  iron  hand, 
not  merely  when  they  seek  to  make  proselytes  from  the  Greek 
church,  but  even  when  they  attack  only  the  heathenism  of  his 
outlying  provinces.  The  Moravians  had  gathered  300  converts 
among  the  Calmucks,  but  the  Imperial  edict  forbade  their  baptism, 
and  the  mission  was  disbanded.  The  Scottish  mission  in  Russian 
Tartary  was  compelled  to  end  its  labors  just  as  they  were  begin- 
ning to  be  productive.  The  missionaries  of  the  Basle  society  were 
ordered  to  quit  the  Russian  empire  in  1833.  And  in  184:1,  the 
mission  of  the  London  Society  in  Siberia  was  suppressed  by  an 
order  from  the  Russian  Synod,  under  the  plea  “ that  the  mission, 
in  relation  to  that  form  of  Christianity  already  established  in  the 
Russian  empire,  did  not  coincide  with  the  views  of  the  church 
and  government.”  It  would  not  be  diflScult,  moreover,  to  show, 
that  while  Russia  rejects  all  ameliorating  religious  influences  from 
without,  the  exercise  of  its  own  power  degrades  the  moral  and 
religious  condition  of  every  province  that  it  touches. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  can  be  shown  “ that  the  Turks  have  for 


XU 


Introduction. 


many  years  been  in  reality — no  matter  under  what  compulsion^ 
no  matter  from  what  motives — the  protectors  of  nearly  all  the 
genuine  Christianity  that  exists  in  Eastern  Europe  and  in  Western 
Asia,  while  Russia  is  slowly,  surely,  terribly,  moving  down  to  de- 
stroy, as  the  frozen  mass  of  a glacier  makes  its  way,  year  by  year, 
to  overwhelm  the  homesteads  of  the  valley.”  In  more  than  fifty 
towns  and  villages  of  Turkey  there  are  Protestant  congregations, 
many  of  them  composed  of  seceders  from  the  Greek  church.  'A 
correspondent  of  the  London  Christian  Times  gives  the  following 
comparative  statistics : 

Number  of  Protestant  clergymen  in  Constantinople 

and  its  suburbs  in 

Ditto  ditto 

Number  of  Protestant  sermons  preached  on  every 
Sabbath  in  different  languages,  in  ditto 
Ditto  ditto 

Number  of  Protestant  schools  in  ditto 

Ditto  ditto 


1830  — 0 
1854  — 19 

1830  — 0 
1854  — 26 
1830  — 0 
1854  — 14 


These  statistics  refer  to  Constantinople  and  its  immediate  en- 
virons alone.  In  the  entire  empire  (including  Constantinople) 
there  are  now  sixty-five  Protestant  preachers.  Did  Nicholas 
reign  instead  of  the  Sultan,  there  would  not  be  one.  The  facts  of 
the  case  fully  justify  the  strong  remark  made  by  Lord  Shaftesbury 
(in  the  speech  before  referred  to),  that  “ Turkey  had  done  every- 
thing to  advance,  and  Russia  everything  to  prevent  the  progress 
of  Christianity  among  the  millions  of  mankind.”  The  Turkish 
system  allows  free  scope  to  Christian  missionaries,  whether  Pro- 
testant or  Catholic,  to  carry  on  their  operations  by  preaching, 
teaching,  printing  or  circulating  the  Scriptures.  There  are  presses 
at  Constantinople,  Bi»harest,  aud  elsewhere,  at  which  the  Bible 
is  printed  in  almost  every  Oriental  tongue,  including  the  Turkish. 
“ There  are  forty  depots  for  the  sale  of  the  Bible  in  Turkey,  and 
at  this  moment  there  are  colporteurs  and  native  agents  engaged 
in  every  province.” 

Let  Turkey  succumb  in  the  approaching  conflict,  and  Russia 


Introduction. 


xm 


obtain  the  power  she  seeks,  and  all  this  will  be  chpged.  The 
Muscovite  S3’stem  of  absolute  exclusion  will  prevail,  and  all  Pro- 
testant missions  must  come  to  an  end.  The  war,  even  at  this 
early  period,  has  benefited  the  Protestant  missions,  and  its  suc- 
cessful prosecution  on  the  part  of  Turkey  will  be  accompanied  by 
still  further  concessions  to  his  Christian  subjects.  Islamism,  as 
such,  is  of  course  opposed  to  such  concessions ; but  the  advances 
of  Turkey  for  the  last  twenty  years  have  all  been  made  at  the  ex- 
pense of  Islamism.  The  defeat  of  Russia  will  secure  to  the  Chris- 
tian population  of  Turkey  a more  independent  position  and  a 
higher  influence  than  they  have  ever  yet  enjoyed.  “ They  have 
long  been  obtaining  concessions  of  civil  liberty.  Their  religious 
liberties  are  secure.  The  great  oflScials  of  the  empire  help  them 
to  build  their  churches.  One  stigma  after  another  has  been  re- 
moved. They  are  rising  in  the  social  scale ; and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  when  they  have  attained  that  true  equality  which  is  now 
fairly  in  view,  they  will  not  forget  that  there  was  a time  when 
the  shelter  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  was  sought  by  Christians  un- 
der Christian  persecution,  by  Jews,  and  by  all  who  were  driven 
from  Christian  lands  for  liberty  of  thought,  religious  or  political.” 
In  view  of  all  these  facts,  Christians — and  most  of  all,  Protestant 
Christians — owe  their  sympathy  and  their  prayers  to  Turkey, 
England  and  France,  in  the  present  war. 

The  views  expressed  by  Dr.  Olin  with  regard  to  the  new  Greek 
kingdom  in  the  following  pages,  evince  his  keen  political  discrim- 
ination and  foresight.  Thirty  years  ago  English  and  French 
fleets  blindly  fought  the  battle  of  Russia  against  the  Turk.  Aptly 
does  Dr.  Olin  ask  (p.  252),  What  good  has  been  done  by  the 
battle  of  Navarino  ? Greece,  too  weak  to  be  independent,  and 
too  corrupt  and  ignorant  for  freedom  and  self-government,  has 
become  virtually  a province  of  Russia,  under  a stupid  king, 
whose  rule  is  decidedly  more  oppressive  than  that  of  the  Turk.” 

One  word  may  be  proper  as  to  the  pecuniary  results  of  the 
present  publication.  The  Wesleyan  University,  at  Middletown, 
Conn.,  of  which  Dr.  Olin  was  President,  lay  very  near  his  heart. 
In  his  will  he  made  provision  that,  in  case  he  should  leave  no 


> 


XIV 


Introductiok. 


children,  the  copyright  of  liis  “ Travels  in  the' East”  should  be 
given  to  the  University;  and  moreover,  that  on  the  death  of 
Mrs.  Olin^  and  in  default  of  children  to  inherit,  the  whole  of  his 
property  should  fall  to  the  University.  His  wife  and  son  survive 
him — and  long  may  they  remain — but  the  present  volume  is  dedi- 
cated, in  the  spirit  of  his  last  "will,  to  the  object  he  so  dearly 
cherished.  The  whole  jproJiU  of  the  hooh  will  accrue  to  theWea- 
ley  an  University^  to  whoso  Trustees  the  copyright  has  been  as- 
signed* 

J.  M‘OLINTOCK. 


April  27,  1864. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

PA9K 

Corfu— Albanian  shores— Bay  and  town  of  Patras— Island  of  Zante— Harbor  of 
Argostoli— Wind  and  rain— Want  of  cleanliness— A comparison— Roar  of  the 
sea — Fine  view  of  Argostoli — Enchanting  scenes 13 

CHAPTER  II. 

V 

Tedious  delays— Citadel  of  Navarino — The  modern  town— Violation  of  interna- 
tional law— Fortress  of  Modon— Bare  and  rocky  islands — Bay  of  Coron,  the  an- 
cient bay  of  Messina — Cape  Matapan — Sterile  coast — Fair  wind  and  a smooth 
sea— Hydra — A city  of  granite  and  marble— Refuge  from  Turkish  oppression — 

The  Hydriots,  their  gallantry  and  successes 29 

CHAPTER  III. 

Bay  of  Egma,  compared  with  the  Bay  of  Naples— Distant  view  of  the  Acropolis 
— First  impressions  of  Athens— Position  of  the  Athenian  forum  favorable  to 
high  displays  of  oratory — Pulpit  of  Demosthenes— Paul  on  Mars’ Hill — The 
academy  of  Plato 36 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Tbeseion- Pentelic  marble— Remains  of  an  ancient  temple — Massive  wall 
of  the  ancient  Agora — Tower  of  the  Winds— Remains  of  a Clepsydra— Lantern 
of  Demosthenes— Street  of  the  Tripods — Curious  sun-dial — Theatre  of  Bacchus 
— Noble  site— Odeon  of  Regilla— Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius— Aerial  habita- 
tion— Magnificent  columns — The  Ilissus— The  Stadium— Contests  of  gladiators 
— The  Lyceum — No  vestiges  of  classic  groves,  or  structures  dedicated  to  serene 
meditation r 42 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Acropolis— The  Propylea— Magnificent  colonnade — Sculptured  frieze — Elgin 
marbles— Lord  Elgin,  the  spoiler  of  the  noblest  monuments  of  geniua— The 


XVI 


Contents 


FAQE 

Parthenon,  the  crown  of  the  Acropolis— The  Erccklheion— Ionic  style— Cary- 
atides—Temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory- The  Museus — The  Pnyx— Cyclopian 
architecture— Pulpit  of  Demosthenes 53 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Walls  of  the  Acropolis— Cyclopian  wall— Wall  built  in  troublous  times— History 
written  on  the  wall — Temple  of  the  Eumenidos — Grotto  of  Pan — Interesling 
fragments— Three  hundred  churches  in  Athens- Rude,  grotesque  structures — 
Solitary  fanes— The  Long  walls 59 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Population  of  Athens— Streets  and  dwellings— Built  on  a portion  of  the  ancient 
city— Reasons  for  and  against  making  Athens  the  capital  of  Greece — Rapid 
growth  of  the  city— Parade  of  business— Coffee-houses— Saints’  days 66 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Greek  Church— Support  of  the  clergy— The  priests  badly  educated— Destitute 
of  influence,— their  preaching,— coslume—Public  morals— Vices  born  of  op- 
pression and  servitude— Education— University  of  Otho— Number  of  schools  in 
Greece— Mrs.  Hill’s  school  in  Athens— The  Bible  the  book  of  the  schools  of 
Greecc—Missionarios— Preaching  the  gospel  entitled  to  the  first  place  among 
the  agencies  for  the  salvation  of  heathen  as  well  as  Christian  nations 72 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A government  and  a liberal  party  in  Greece— Blunders  and  oppressions  of  the 
Regency — The  young  Otho- Mistaken  policy— Oppressive  taxation— Despotic 
government— Act  of  lawless  oppression- A degraded  people— Dismissal  of  the 
Bavarians— The  King  thrown  on  his  own  resources — Splendor  of  his  palace. . 80 


CHAPTER  X. 

Great  expense  of  the  army— Extreme  poverty  of  the  country— Cultivation  of  the 
land— Sale  of  the  public  lands- No  forest  trees— Dry  beds  of  rivers  and  streams 
— Domestic  and  economic  habits  of  the  people— Want  of  capital — Bank  on 
English  cai)ilal— Shallow  artifice 88 


Contents 


xvu 


CHAPTER  XL 

PAGE 

Departure  from  the  Pii-aeus— Heavy  gale— Night  in  a coffee-house— Group  of  sleep- 
ers—Rocky  soil— Aerial  town— Magnificent  view — Temple  of  Jupiter  Panhelle- 
nius— Venerable  ruin— Precious  remains  of  antiquity— Diminutive  size  of  an- 
cient temples 100 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Ancient  Epidaurus— Slight  remains  of  a powerful  and  opulent  city — The  modern 
town— Primitive  plough,— probably  the  same  used  in  the  days  of  Homer — 
Adoption  of  the  Frank  dress— An  upper  room — Grotesque  cortege— Precipitous 
paths— Grove  of  Esculapius— Ancient  theatre— Stadium— Remains  of  ancient 
baths 110 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Peasants  cutting  w’ood — Shepherds  and  their  flocks— Napoli— An  unhealthy  city 
—The  Palymede — A fortress-prison, — the  commandant— Fine  pieces  of  ord- 

» nance — Fortification  constructed  by  Venetians  and  Turks— The  bastions— Im- 
pregnable fortress— Oriental  entertainment— Dishonest  publican — Only  good 
road  between  Macedonia  and  Cape  Matapan 118 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Fertile  plain  of  Argos— Ancient  city  of  Tyrius — Reasons  controlling  the  selection 
of  the  sites  of  ancient  cities — Gateways — Huge  stones, — work  ascribed  to  giants 
—Ruins  of  Mycenae — Great  antiquity — Cyclopian  remains — Tomb  of  Aga- 
memnon—Gate  of  lions— The  citadel— Walls  of  the  citadel— “ The  void  place” 
—Illustrations  of  prophetic  language— Remote  antiquity 125 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Argos, — market-day — Source  of  the  power  of  the  ancient  Greeks— Journey  in  the 
rain— Dervenaki,— the  Thermopylae  of  the  late  Greek  Revolution— Vale  of 
Nemea— Remains  of  the  temple  of  the  Nemean  Jupiter— Difllcult  paths  and 
sagacious  horses — Immense  sand-hills — Corinth — Fragment  of  a temple  of  Nep- 
tuue— Hospitality  of  the  governor 137 

CHAPTER  XVI. 


Isthmus  of  Corinth— Proposed  canal— Reasons  of  its  failure— The  advantages  it 
would  afford— Kind  attentions  from  the  governor  of  Corinth— The  Ravarian 
regency- Municipal  system— Coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Lepanto— Scala 144 


xviii  Contents. 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Pag* 

Lovely  View— Krisso— Ferlile  valley— Sarcophagi— Delphi — Fountain  of  Castaiia 
—Sacred  rocks— narrow  chasm 151 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Ancient  gymnasium— Modem  use  of  ancient  treasures— The  Stadium— Valley  of 
Delphi — Ancient  dreams,  and  modem  realities— Ancient  cemetery — Terraced 
vineyards— Village  of  A rracaba— Remote  position— Visit  to  a Greek  family,— 
style  of  building,— comfortless  mode  of  living 158 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Desolate  region— Llvadia — Scene  of  savage  grandeur— Fountains  of  memory 
and  oblivion- Chamber  in  the  rock 167 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Great  fertile  plain— Site  of  the  ancient  Cheronea— Leuctra — Interesting  remains 
—Khan  of  Leuctra,— wild  ducks — Platea— Fertility  of  celebrated  battle-fields— 
Gallantry  of  the  Plateaus 173 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Public  Domain— Thebes,— peculiarity  of  its  site, —no  splendid  remains,— accumu- 
lations of  mbbish— Successive  masters  of  Greece— Modem  Thebes,— st/ength 
as  a military  position- Memorable  night 178 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Magmflcent  plain-Cattle  and  sheep  of  Greece— The  feathered  race— Halt  at 
noon-day— Uncourt eous  treatment— Dining  in  public — View  of  the  island  of 
Negropont— Mountain  scenery- Parnassus  and  Helicon— Transparent  atmos- 
phere— God’s  works  all  c/can— Oropo— Advantage  of  an  honorary  title 184 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Greek  like  the  North  American  Indian— Aspect  and  dress  of  the  peasantry — 
Rocky  road— Plain  of  Marathon — Noble  area- Rude  monuments — Theatres  of 
great  battles — Boyish  imaginations — The  battle  of  Marathon,  a conflict  be- 
tween light  and  darkness— Mighty  consequence  of  this  conflict — Battle  of 
Cheronea- Greece,  the  civilizer  of  the  world— Battles  of  Marathon  and  Chero- 
nea, separate  triumphs  of  the  same  principle — Evening  meditations  on  the 
field  of  Marathon 192 


Contents 


XIX 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

PAGE 

Summit  of  Mount  Bourgaloue— P’xtensive  view— Turk?, — veiled  women— Circular 
structure  on  a rock  in  the  sea— Tomb  of  Sultan  Ahmed — The  Almeidan — 
Obelisk — Spiral  pillar  of  brass — Burnt  column— Cistern  of  Bin-bir-derek S05 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Long  bridge  over  the  Golden  Horn— Jews’  quarter — Apparent  wretchedness— 
Greek  quarter— Greek  church— Oblique  gate — Fountain— City  walls— Gipsies 
—Venerable  bulwarks— Adrianople  gate — Cannon  gate— The  seven  towers — 
Extensive  cemeteries 213 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Armenian  quarter— Armenian  women— Aqueduct  of  Valens— Hostility  towards 
Christians— Sarcophagus  of  Theodosia— Lunatic  asylum — Brown  bears— Turk- 
ish veneration  for  the  insane 220 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Caf6s  of  the  Solomynia— Curious  pipes— Oriental  repose— A Frank  taking  notes 
—Exaggerated  reports  of  opium  eaters— Number  and  elegance  of  the  coffee- 
houses—Seraskier’s  Tower— Noble  view— Sitesof  public  edifices— Multitude  of 
mosques— War  department— Signal  for  fires— Shops  for  vessels  of  brass 22G 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

The  bazars— Bazar  for  the  sale  of  shoes  and  slippers— Splendid  bazar  for  the  sale 
of  rich  embroidery— Saddle  bazar,— glittering  wares— Armenian  trader  in  furs 
—Characteristics  of  Oriental  traffic — Imposing  spectacle— Dignity  of  the  Turk- 
ish merchant— Different  bearing  of  the  Jew — Armenian  bazars — Exposure  to 
fire 233 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Greek  churches  built  by  voluntary  contributions— Burnt  district — Frequency  and 
extent  of  conflagrations— Fearful  scenes— Exhibition  of  selfishness  and  bigotry 
“Slight  structmes— Ready  to  be  burned 240 

CHAPTER  XXX. 


Beautiful  Armenian  church— IMonumental  slabs  used  in  its  erection— Armenian 
burying-grounds— Armenian  and  Turkish  monuments— Simple  memorials  of 
the  dead— The  resting-place  of  the  dead  a favorite  resort  for  the  living 245 


XX 


Contents 


CHAPTEll  XXXI. 

pAan 

The  Sultan’s  navy-yard — Old  ships  of  war— Question  of  the  East — Political  as- 
pects—Strangers  not  readily  admitted  into  the  navy-yard— Mr.  Rhodes,  the 
Sultan’s  naval  architect— Jealousy  of  Turkish  oflicers— Oppression  of  the  peas- 
antry—New  system  of  reform— Ruined  palace  of  Constantine 250 


CHAPTER  XXXIL 

Burning  heat— Changes  in  the  temperature— Howling  Dervises— Shrill  frantic 
cries— Convulsive  movements — A great  Santon 258 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

The  Mussulman  Sabbath— Unsuccessful  effort  at  sight-seeing— Royal  visit  to  a 
mosque — A caique— Greek  boatmen— Salutations  to  the  Sultan— Martial  inu- 
sic- Exciting  race— Sultan  in  the  place  of  prayer— Expectant  crowd— Royal 
barges— Officers  of  State— The  Sultan-Gorgeous  spectacle 265 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

The  heavenly  waters— Turkish  soldiers— Young  recruits— The  military  system  of 
Franco  adopted  in  the  Turkish  army— Frank  costume— Tlie  fez,  or  rod  cap— 
Ample  Oriental  costume- Slow  and  measured  pace — Dancing  dervises— Ve- 
locity of  their  whirl— The  scarlet  fleece 274 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Boatmen  of  the  Bosphorus— Fine  steamboats  built  by  Mr.  Rhodes— Head  of  the 
Golden  Horn— Valley  of  Sweet  Waters — Kiosk  of  the  Sultan— Royal  palaces 
— Childish  policy— Monument  to  the  Sultan’s  skill  in  archery — The  enchanted 
arrow— Armenian  church  at  Haskra— Intolerance  rebuked— Armenian  school 
— Mosque  of  Eyoub— Its  peculiar  sanctity— Sultan’s  tomb— Turkish  fashion  of 
endowing  tombs— Turkish  mode  of  fostering  native  talent 281 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


Egyptian  bazar— The  slavc-market  -Aspect  and  cheerfulness  of  the  slaves— Po- 
c\iliar  features  of  OrienUU  slavery — White  slaves — Richly  ornamented  fire-anns 
-Damascus  blades-Magniflcent  bazars 284 


Contents 


XXI 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

PAGE 

Seraglio  point— Uncouth  exhibition— Agitated  sea— Gate  of  death— Secret  exe- 
cutions— Mute  emissaries  of  death — Fishing  houses — Illuminated  fishing  boats 
—Columns  in  the  wall 294 

CHAPTER  XXXYIIL 

Establishment  for  printing  calicoes— Region  desolated  by  fire — Armenian  quar- 
ter—Perilous  position — Turkish  obstinacy— Desperation— Summary  punish- 
ment—Offensive  accumulations 302 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Cost  of  a firman — St.  Sophia — Grand  central  dome — Sublime  expanse — Four  im- 
mense pillars— Spieridid  antique  columns — Beautiful  mosaics — ^The  mosque 
a place  of  deposit  for  treasure 312 

CHAPTER  XL. 

The  Seraglio— Tragic  court  register— Site  of  the  ancient  Byzantium— Halls  of  au- 
dience—Thick  cypress  grove — The  keeper  asleep— Column  of  Theodosius  the 
Great— Deep  shade — Green  houses — Festive  halls— The  treasury — Mint — 
Worthless  coins— The  armory — Oriental  repose  trying  to  Frank  impatience — 
Brazen  camp-kettles  of  the  Janissaries — Desecration  of  an  ancient  church. — 
Last  day  in  Constantinople 317 


j 


ttit. 


> >•  • ; 


1 


j 


‘-V, 


.■0 


C 


r 


1 


> 


\ 


I 


'vf; 


• <•' 


GREECE  AND  THE  GOLDEN  HORN. 


CHA-PTEli  I. 

THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS 

CoEFiT  is  tlie  first  Greek  town  we  have  seen.  It  is 
said  to  contain  three  thousand  five  hundred  inhabit- 
ants, and  is  situated  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island,  opposite  to  Albania,  from  which  it  is  about 
two  miles  distant.  Near  the  middle  of  the  channel  is 
the  small  island  of  Yidi,  consisting  of  a few  acres  of 
rock,  out  of  which  has  been  excavated  an  impregnable 
fortress,  not  yet  entirely  complete.  This  fortress  quite 
commands  the  channel,  which  is  deep  enough  for  ships 
of  the  line  on  the  Albanian  side,  as  well  as  towards 
Corfu.  There  are  also  strong  forts  in  the  city  oppo- 
site to  Vida,  and  it  appears  hardly  possible  for  an  en- 
emy to  disturb^this  stronghold  of  England,  which, 
along  with  Gibraltar  and  Malta,  must  secure  to  her 
the  dominion  of  the  Mediterranean,  so  long  at  least  as 
she  maintains  her  naval  superiority.  The  bay,  per- 
fectly shut  in  by  mountains,  is  of  great  extent  and 
depth  of  water,  but  is  said  to  be  exposed  to  winds 
from  the  Albanian  mountains.  The  entrance  is  by  a 


14 


Corfu. 


narrow  winding  channel  that  seems  to  be  quite  blocked 
up  with  mountains,  Avhen  you  look  back  to  it  from  the 
cit}^  There  was  but  little  shipping  in  the  harbor — 
mostly  small  Greek  vessels  employed  in  the  coasting 
trade.  The  island  of  Corfu,  seen  at  a distance,  seems 
only  a mass  of  desolate  mountains.  It,  however,  con- 
tains many  fertile  valleys,  which  produce  olives  in 
great  abundance.  These  constitute  the  agricultural 
wealth  of  the  island.  Corn  is  imported  from  the  Black 
Sea  by  the  government,  and  sold  to  the  people  at  cost. 
Vegetables,  some  vines,  and  lately  potatoes,  are  the 
other  products. 

The  city  of  Corfu  is  built  upon  a point  of  land,  just 
opposite  to  Vida,  and  though  not  perfectly  flat,  is  not, 
with  the  exception  of  the  citadel  and  the  streets  near 
the  governor’s  palace,  greatly  elevated.  The  houses 
built  of  stone  or  brick,  and  plastered  and  whitewashed, 
have  a neglected  and  decaying  appearance.  The 
streets  are  very  narrow,  and,  with  a few  exceptions, 
the  shops  are  small,  poor,  and  dirty.  Only  a few  of 
the  coarsest  articles  are  exhibited  for  sale,  and  though 
the  streets  are  several  of  them  crowded,  there  is  but 
little  appearance  of  business.  Multitudes  of  people 
stood  or  sat  idle,  laughing,  talking,  or  smoking.  No- 
thing could  be  more  picturesque  and  un-European  than 
the  whole  scene.  It  was  decidedly  oriental,  and  the  more 
striking  for  being  the  first  oriental  town  I had  visited. 
The  flowing  and  various  costumes  of  the  Greeks,  Turks, 
and  Albanians,  were  mingled  in  gay  confusion. 

With  very  few  exceptions,  all  was  marked  with 
the  impress  of  squalid  poverty.  Tlie  boatmen,  who 


Corfu. 


15 


«eem  to  be  active  and  expert,  generally  speak  a lit- 
tle English,  as  do  many  of  the  shop-keepers,  several 
of  whom  are,  in  fact,  Englislimen.  The  aspect  of  the 
people  is  decidedly  Greek,  and  it  is  only  here  and 
there  that,  with  the  exception  of  tke  military,  a man 
is  seen  dressed  in  the  European  faskion.  Corfu,  whicli 
is  the  key  to  the  Adriatic  and  the  Archipelago,  may 
be  expected  to  increase  in  size  and  importance.  The 
expenditure  of  the  army  and  for  public  works  is  a 
source  of  prosperity.  The  fleets  of  England  are  often 
here,  and  considerable  trade  is  carried  on  with  the 
neighboring  coast  of  Turkey.  The  High  Commis- 
sioner is  said  to  have  the  prosperity  of  these  islands 
much  at  heart,  and  the  native  legislature,  though  by 
no  means  an  enlightened  body,  concur  to  a good  de- 
gree in  his  views.  Good  roads  have  been  constructed, 
a thing  unknown  in  other  parts  of  the  Levant.*  A 

* A fearful  hurricane  burst  on  the  island  of  Corfu  on  the  night 
of  the  19th  of  February,  1853.  The  country  was  everywhere  rav- 
aged, and  the  most  lamentable  misfortune  was  occasioned.  The 
houses  were  agitated  as  if  by  an  earthquake ; doors  and  windows 
were  torn  from  their  fastenings  and  hurled  through  the  air,  and  the 
roofs  of  houses  fell  crashing  into  the  streets.  The  town  of  Corfu 
suffered  severely.  Several  houses  were  blown  down ; all  the  ships 
at  anchor  suffered,  while  many  were  wrecked  ; upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred trees  on  the  Esplanade  were  uprooted,  and  a portion  of  the 
walls  supporting  the  land  was  demolished  by  the  sea.  One  account 
says  that  twenty-nine  lives  were  lost  in  the  environs,  and  another 
eighty.  One  village  is  spoken  of  as  entirely  destroyed.  A letter 
dated  the  next  day  after  the  hurricane  says ; 

“ The  magnificent  forest  of  olive-trees,  which  was  the  pride  and 
wealth  of  Corfu,  is  entirely  destroyed.  The  country  is  literally 
sacked.  The  few  trees  which  remain  standing  may  be  counted,  but 


16 


Corfu. 


college,  wliicli  is  well  attended,  has  been  endowed. 
The  professors  were  mostly  educated  in  Italy,  and 
some  of  them  are  Italians.  An  Englishman  was  ap- 
pointed to  one  of  the  chairs,  but  upon  an  alleged  in- 
terference with  the  religious  prejudices  of  the  country, 
was  compelled  to  retire,  and  a statute  forbids  the  ap- 
pointment of  another.  There  is  a growing  attention 
to  common  schools,  which  are  also  established  by  the 
government.  The  land  of  the  island  is  held  in  small 
estates,  which  are  valuable  in  proportion  to  their  num- 
ber of  olive-trees.  The  Ionian  islands  pay  annually 
for  the  British  connection,  £36,000,  beside  maintain- 
ing their  own  local  institutions  and  improvements. 
The  governor  receives  £5,000  per  annum.  Inter- 
course with  the  eastern  part  of  Turkey  is  embarrassed 
by  a rigorous  quarantine. 

Upon  leaving  Corfu,  the  Albanian  shores  continue 
bleak  and  mountainous,  with  scarcely  an  interruption, 
for  I should  think  more  than  a hundred  miles.  The 
same  is  true  of  the  island,  though  the  mountains  are 
less  lofty  and  abrupt.  Ithica,  which  we  passed  before  5, 
on  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  November,  has  a similar 
appearance,  as  has  Cephalonia,  of  which  we  had  a more 
distant  though  distinct  view.  These,  with  many 
smaller  islands,  are  masses  of  mountains  apparently 

it  is  impossible  to  reckon  the  thousands  which  are  torn  up  and 
broken  to  pieces,  Is  ever  have  I witnessed  such  a deplorably  deso- 
lating scene,  of  whose  horrors  description  is  impossible.  All  the 
roads  are  blocked  up  by  trunks  of  trees  ; the  country  no  longer  has 
the  appearance  of  a land  inhabited ; it  has  the  aspect  of  a chaotio 
overthrow.” — Ed. 


Patras. 


17 


consisting  of  many  rocks  and  peaks  of  a gray  askey 
color,  nearly  destitute  of  verdure,  and  quite  without 
trees.  Many  of  the  valleys  and  some  small  plains  have 
great  fertility,  though  but  a thin  soil. 

We  entered  the  bay  .of  Patras  between  9 and  10 
A.  M.  The  shores  on  either  hand  are  still  bounded 
by  mountains  of  considerable  height,  and  almost  per- 
fectly bare  of  verdure.  Not  a tree  is  to  be  seen,  and 
the  eye  rests  upon  boundless  sterility.  Nearer  Patras 
the  hills  recede  a half  a mile  from  the  beach,  and  a 
strip  of  level  ground,  apparently  fertile,  stretches 
along  the  coast  for  several  miles.  Back  of  this  narrow 
plain,  the  elevation  is  less  than  elsewhere,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  planted  with  olive-trees.  The  town  is 
built  close  to  the  water,  extending  back  to  the  foot  of 
a high  hill  which  is  surmounted  by  a citadel  that  quite 
overlooks  the  town,  and,  though  constructed  with 
little  solidity,  might  resist  a sudden  incursion  of  undis-  ‘ 
ciplined  foes.  It  is  not  kept  in  repair,  nor  has  it  any 
garrison  at  present. 

The  town  is  entirely  new,  and  with  the  exception 
of  five  or  six  houses,  is  built  in  the  most  shght, 
wretched  manner.  The  walls  are,  many  of  them,  of 
bricks  dried  in  the  sun — some  of  small  shapeless 
stones,  laid  in  mud.  A large  majority  are  mere 
cabins  of  the  worst  possible  kind,  not  more  than  four 
or  five  feet  high,  without  floors,  filthy  and  without 
furniture.  The  people,  who  seemed  all  to  be  iu  the 
street,  or  in  the  front  of  their  open  sliops,  were,  with 
few  exceptions,  meanly  dressed  in  the  coarsest  clothes, 
many  of  them  dirty,  ragged,  without  stockings,  and 


18 


Shores  of  Z ante. 


slipshod.  Still  their  costume  was  picturesque.  Con- 
siderable quantities  of  cheap  coarse  goods  were  dis- 
played in  the  shops,  and  the  market  was  well  supplied 
with  vegetables,  chiefly  cabbages  and  onions.  We 
saw  no  antiquities  at  Patras,  though  ruins  of  a temple 
of  Ceres  are  said  to  exist  there.  It  has  been  the  site 
of  a city  for  several  thousand  years,  has  a favorable 
situation  for  trade  near  the  entrance  of  the  Gulf  of 
Corinth,  and  there  is  said  to  be  a fertile  country  in  the 
vicinity,  though  it  was  hid  from  our  view  by  the 
mountains.  I heard  that  there  are  four  or  five  Eng- 
lish merchants  resident  here,  who  carry  on  a direct 
trade  with  Great  Britain.  The  few  ships  in  the  harbor 
were  of  small  dimensions,  and,  with  the  exception  of 
two  brigs,  not  fit  for  any  but  coasting  voyages.  The 
population  is  variously  reported  at  from  five  thousand 
to  eight  or  ten  thousand.  It  gives  one  but  a sad  idea 
of  the  progress  of  this  new  kingdom,  to  be  told  that 
Patras  is  one  of  its  three  most  important  and  commer- 
cial towns. 

November  21st.  The  boat  was  detained  here  till 
near  midnight,  taking  in  coal,  which  is  deposited  here 
for  the  supply  of  the  Austrian  line  of  steamers.  The 
night  was  dark  and  rainy,  and  the  sea  very  boisterous. 
At  sunrise  we  had  not  advanced  in  our  voyage  above 
twenty -five  or  thirty  miles,  and  upon  going  on  deck 
I found  the  boat  struggling  against  a powerful  head- 
wind, just  off  the  shores  of  Zante.  The  violence  of 
the  wind  continued  to  increase  for  three  hours  more, 
till,  our  vessel  becoming  quite  unable  to  make  head 
against  it,  the  captain,  with  the  entire  approbation  of 


Z ANTE. 


19 


the  passengers,  wbo  were  mostly  becoming  sicK:,  re- 
solved to  seek  tlie  nearest  port,  and  for  this  purpose 
turned  directly  back  for  the  harbor  of  Zante. 

The  island,  as  we  coasted  along  the  shore  at  the  dis- 
tance of  not  more  than  half  a mile,  appeared — though, 
like  all  the  islands  and  coasts  of  Greece,  composed  of 
mountains — to  be  much  less  elevated  and  precipit- 
ous than  those  we  had  previously  seen.  The  hills 
were  verdant  with  olive-yards.  White  cottages  con- 
trasted beautifully  with  the  evergreen  foliage.  Every- 
thing bore  the  appearance  of  culture  and  civilization, 
and  the  whole  scene,  aided  no  doubt  by  the  bare  and 
desolate  regions  at  which  we  had  for  some  time  been 
looking,  had  an  aspect  of  signal  and  picturesque 
beauty.  In  a little  more  than  an  hour,  we  came  in 
view  of  the  city,  and  congratulated  ourselves  upon  the 
unexpected  opportunity  of  visiting  the  loveliest  place 
we  had  yet  seen  in  Greece. 

Several  of  our  company  were  forming  a party  to 
visit  the  Opera,  which  is  said  to  be  good,  not  doubting 
but  the  friendly  storm  would  continue  for  at  least 
twenty-four  hours.  These  anticipations  of  pleasure 
were  soon  disappointed.  The  harbor,  which  is  a mere 
roadstead,  quite  unsheltered  on  the  side  of  the  sea, 
was  in  great  agitation.  There  was  no  safe  anchorage, 
and  it  would  have  been  quite  impossible  to  reach  the 
land  in  a small  boat.  It  was  soon  announced  that  we 
were  to  proceed  about  thirty  miles  more  in  our  retro- 
grade course,  to  seek  shelter  in  the  more  secure  port  of 
Cephalonia.  We  passed  very  near  to  the  town,  and 
had  a good  view  of  its  beautiful  site  and  environs. 


20 


Z A N T E. 


The  city  of  Zante  is  built  upon  the  edge  of  the  sea, 
mostly  upon  a level  area;  but  partly  upon  rising 
ground  at  the  base  of  the  hill,  or  rather  mountain, 
by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the  land  side.  This  gives 
to  it  a showy,  amphitheatrical  appearance.  Viewed 
from  the  sea,  it  seems  to  occupy  the  whole  open  space 
upon  the  beach,  and  to  extend  back  a considerable  dis- 
tance along  a gorge  of  the  mountain,  which  allowed  us 
to  see,  above  the  tops  of  the  houses,  an  extensive  re- 
gion of  high  hills  and  rugged  cliffs — an  imposing,  wild 
background  to  this  beautiful  place.  The  loftiest  pin- 
nacle of  the  mountain  is  occupied  by  the  citadel,  which 
must  command  perfectly,  not  only  the  city,  but  all  ap- 
proach to  it  at  least  by  sea.  To  the  left  of  the  town 
are  seen  several  sugar-loaf  hills,  covered  to  the  top 
with  luxuriant  olive  trees.  On  the  right,  the  moun- 
tain declines  a little  into  a high  table-land,  clothed 
likewise  with  a noble  forest  of  the  same  beautiful  ever- 
green, extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  It  is  a 
large  town  of  apparently  two  or  three  thousand  inhab- 
itants, commercial,  wealthy,  and  prosperous — a con- 
trast to  nearly  everything  in  this  blighted  region. 

A company  of  Germans  left  us  at  Patras  to  proceed 
by  land  to  Athens,  by  the  way  of  Corinth,  Thebes, 
and  Delphi.  There  being  no  roads  in  this  country, 
they  of  course  travel  on  horseback.  For  this  I was 
previously  prepared,  but  no  report  of  travellers  had 
made  me  understand  that  it  was  necessary  to  have  an 
escort  of  armed  soldiers  in  every  part  of  Greece,  but 
such  it  seems  is  the  fact.  This  company,  I believe 
eight  in  number,  were  well  armed  with  double-barrel- 


IIarbor  of  Argostoli.  21 

led  guns  and  swords.  They  were  advised  by  their  con- 
sul at  Patras,  that  it  would  be  unsafe  to  proceed  with- 
out the  additional  security  of  a guard  of  soldiers. 
This  is  regarded  as  quite  indispensable  in  journeying 
in  the  interior. 

November  22d.  We  anchored  last  evening,  at  five, 
in  the  harbor  of  Argostoli,  having  been  tossed  about 
by  a violent  tempest  for  six  or  eight  hours.  The  en- 
gines of  the  boat,  two  of  fifty  horse-power  each,  are 
quite  unequal  to  such  a time.  The  boat,  with  the  as- 
sistance of  a sail,  was  nearly  unmanageable.  About 
three  in  the  afternoon,  our  danger  of  being  thrown  upon 
a rocky  and  preci|)itous  shore  was  imminent.  The 
capt  .in  was  manifestly  alarmed.  The  old  sailors  gath- 
ered round  him  with  their  advice,  and  altogether  it 
was  a time  of  anxiety  to  the -passengers.  These  men 
seem  not  to  possess  the  skill  and  courage  of  our  Amer- 
ican sailors.  There  is  a familiarity  between  the  cap- 
tain and  the  sailors  which  is  little  favorable  to  discip- 
line, and  it  is  altogether  impossible  to  feel  the  same 
confidence  that  is  inspired  by  a higher  degree  of 
dignity  and  decision.  We  were  all  glad  to  anchor 
in  the  well-sheltered  harbor  of  Argostoli,  and  I hope 
some  were  thankful  for  their  escape  from  imminent 
peril.  The  harbor  is  formed  by  an  arm  of  the  sea, 
which,  for  several  miles,  has  the  appearance  of  a 
river  from  a mile  to  a quarter  of  a mile  wide,  which 
seems  to  terminate  a little  above  Argostoli,  where  it  is 
crossed  by  a low  bridge  of  wood.  It  is  perfectly  shel- 
tered by  the  hills  that  rise  like  an  amphitheatre  in  all 
directions. 


22 


Wind  and  Eain. 


Here  we  are  at  anclior,  witli  little  prospect  of  sailing 
again  at  least  for  a day  or  two.  The  sky  is  alternately 
black  witli  angry  clouds,  and  bright  with  a most  bril- 
liant sun.  At  intervals  of  every  half-hour  our  deck 
is  inundated  by  violent  showers  of  rain.  Gusts  of  wind 
from  different  points  of  the  compass  rush  down  upon 
us  from  the  mountains,  with  great  though  transient 
violence.  But  for  these  clear  indications  of  the  bad 
weather  which  prevails  at  sea,  it  might  not  be  easy  to 
keep  our  patience  or  even  good-temper  in  exercise. 

We  were  to  have  been  in  Athens  to-day.  So  far 
from  this,  we  are  forty  miles  farther  from  that  desired 
goal  than  we  were  two  days  since,  and  we  must  sail  near- 
ly four  hundred  miles  along  a bad  coast,  must  double 
Cape  Matapan,  must  in  all  probability  be  tossed  three 
days  and  nights  more  before  our  arrival  in  this  city — 
a city  which  contains,  it  is  said,  the  only  good  hotels 
in  Greece. 

To  render  this  delay  the  less  tolerable,  to  say  no- 
thing of  our  anxiety  to  see  a city  of  so  many  attrac- 
tions for  the  curious  and  classical  traveller,  we  are  sub- 
ject to  want  and  inconvenience  of  a grosser  sort.  Our 
fare  on  board  the  boat,  bad  from  the  first,  is  now  much 
deteriorated.  Towels,  napkins,  table-linen,  are  all 
thoroughly  soiled,  with,  I fear,  no  hope  of  a fresh  sup- 
pl}^'  The  little  attention  which  was  paid  to  cleanli- 
ness at  the  beginning  of  the  voyage  has  quite  subsid- 
ed, and  our  table  utensils,  cabin,  and  every  article  of 
food,  seem  to  vie  with  our  Italian  stewards  and  their 
apparel  in  disgusting  filth.  These  people  seem  to  think 
that  cleanliness  is  no  longer  of  any  importance  after 


Want  of  Cleanliness. 


23 


fheir  passengers  are  well  on  board  and  the  anchor  is 
weighed.  The  same  thing  is  observable  in  the  hotels 
of  Germany  and  some  parts  of  Italy.  An  apartment 
is  put  in  such  a state  as  not  to  disgust  a traveller  at 
first  sight ; but  after  he  has  once  taken  possession, 
everything  is  neglected.  The  floor  is  not  swept,  the 
bed-linen  is  seldom  changed,  snuffers,  candlesticks, 
tumblers,  are  left  in  statu  quo. 

One  hardly  knows  whom  to  reproach  with  the  bad 
management  and  filth  with  which  we  are  now  afflicted 
— I mean  what  people.  The  boat  is  Austrian,  the' 
master  an  Ionian  Greek,  I believe,  from  Cephalonia, 
the  crew  is  Dalmatian  and  Greek,  the  gens  de  service 
Italian  and  Greek.  From  the  observations  I have 
been  able  to  make,  no  injustice  would  be  done  by 
charging  all  these  races  with  a great  deficiency  in  the 
virtue — it  has  been  called,  and  I am  not  now  at  least 
inclined  to  detract  from  its  dignity — in  the  virtue  of 
cleanliness.  In  passing  from  Ilolland  into  Hanover, 
the  grievous  contrast  in  this  respect  is  the  first  thing 
that  strikes  the  traveller.  ‘In  Prussia  one  at  first  is 
less  disgusted  with  dirty  habits.  A more  intimate  ac- 
quaintance with  the  people,  for  whieh  he  need  not  go 
beyond  the  best  hotels  in  Berlin  or  Potsdam,  does  not 
fail  to  remove  any  favorable  impressions  which  he  may 
have  too  hastily  received.  Leipzig,  Dresden,  Prague, 
Vienna,  much  more  the  provincial  towns,  merit  the 
same  reproach, — some  of  them  even  to  a much  higher 
degree  than  Northern  Germany.  Trieste  one  hardly 
knows  whether  to  consider  an  Austrian  or  an  Italian 
city.  The  streets,  like  those  of  Vienna  and  Dresden, 


24 


A Comparison. 


are  well  enougli,  but  the  interior  of  the  hotel  soon  ad- 
monishes the  voyageur  that  he  has  little  to  hope  for  on 
the  score  of  cleanliness  from  this  blending  of  German 
and  Italian  habits. 

The  Dutch  are  certainly  entitled  to  be  considered 
the  most  cleanly  people  proper  in  the  world.  It  is  a 
perfect  monomania  with  them — a perpetual  annoyance 
to  all  who  are  so  unlucky  as  to  come  within  reach  of 
the  pumps  and  scrubbing-brushes.  The  Enghsh  are 
perhaps  before  the  French  in  this  respect,  though  I 
could  not  say  that  their  hotels  are  better  kept  generally 
than  those  of  the  same  grade  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  channel.  In  their  farm-houses  and  cottages,  this 
claim  is  much  better  supported.  . The  French,  how- 
ever this  question  may  be  decided  between  them  and 
their  insular  neighbors  and  rivals,  are  indisputably 
before  the  Italians  in  this  mark  of  advanced  civiliza- 
tion. In  comparing  the  Italians  with  the  Germans,  it 
may  be  said,  I think,  that  the  latter  are  more  attentive 
to  out-door  cleanliness.  Their  streets  are  swept  and 
kept  with  greater  care.  The  eye  is  seldom  offended 
with  the  disgusting  exhibitions  which  in  Italy,  and 
too  often  in  France,  are  sure  to  meet  you  the  moment 
you  walk  over  the  threshold  of  the  hotel.  But  in  the 
more  important  matters  of  clean  beds,  clean  tables  and 
table  furniture,  and  all  the  et  cetera  of  the  interior 
economy  of  a lodging-house — taking  my  own  experi- 
ence as  a guide — a decided  preference  must  be  given 
to  the  Italians.'  These  discussions  upon  the  borders 
of  Greece,  do  not  bespeak  a very  lofty  and  absorbing 
classic  enthusiasm.  Our  circumstances  just  now  arc 


Argostoli. 


25 


not  very  favorable  to  high  imaginings.  Tlie  animal 
nature  of  man  has  its  claims,  and  is  sometimes  fairly 
entitled  to  assuage  its  griefs  by  uttering  complaints. 
Another  day  will  be  more  favorable  to  the  dominion 
of  classical  meditations,  and  will  make  oblivion  of 
sensual  grievances  more  easy. 

Nov.  23d.  At  9 A.  m.  we  are  still  in  the  harbor  of 
Argostoli,  with  the  wind  in  the  unfavorable  quarter, 
(the  south,)  and  the  clouds  still  threatening — at  least 
so  it  seems  to  my  unpractised  eye.  The  force  and 
fury  of  the  elements  have,  however,  partially  subsided, 
and  ships  are  busy  in  getting  up  the  steam  and  making 
other  preparations  for  again  attempting  the  passage  to 
Athens.  Though  we  are  quiet  enough  in  this  shel- 
tered harbor,  the  sea  is  very  far  from  being  calm,  as  is 
manifest  from  the  perpetual  roaring  of  the  waves, 
whose  mighty  voice,  as  they  dash  against  the  shore 
several  miles  from  us,  and  separated  by  a high  pro- 
montory, is  perfectly  audible.  In  the  stillness  of  the 
morning  at  day-break,  it  Was  almost  terrific.  I doubt 
much  whether  we  shall  be  able  to  proceed  to  sea.  I 
think  the  captain  does  not  expect  it,  but  feels  bound 
to  make  the  trial,  to  guard  himself  against  blame  with 
the  company  at  Trieste. 

We  have  not  been  allowed  to  land  at  Argostoli, 
though  we  have  been  for  forty  hours  within  a quarter 
of  a mile  of  the  shore.  We  have,  however,  obtained 
some  supplies  of  provisions  and  fuel.  In  despair  of 
carrying  us  through  upon  the  first  courses,  the  steward 
has  at  last  given  a change  of  napkins  and  towels,  and 
we  are  upon  the  whole  in  circumstances  a little  more 

2 


Argostoli. 


26  ' 

favorable  for  passing  a day  or  two  longer  at  sea  witb 
some  tolerable  comfort. 

We  have  from  the  deck  a very  fin©  view  of  Argos- 
toli  and  its  environs.  Its  situation  favors  this  view 
greatly.  Like  the  other  towns  which  we  have  seen  in 
Greece, — Corfu,  Patras,  and  Zante,— it  is  built  upon  the 
beach,  and  extends  back  along  the  base  and  side  of 
the  mountain,  which,  verdant  with  the  evergreen 
olive,  forms  a striking,  picturesque,  and  lovely  back- 
ground, seen  high  above  the  houses,  and  stretching 
away  till  it  is  lost  in  the  distance  or  in  the  clouds. 
This  is  a peculiarity  belonging  to  the  cities  upon  the  > 
Mediterranean,  to  which  there  is  nothing  similar  in 
America,  or,  as  far  as  I have  had  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving, in  the  more  northern  parts  of  Europe.  There, 
as  in  the  United  States,  the  shore,  though  sometimes 
sufficiently  elevated,  is  generally  flat,  and  the  city  is 
upon  the  same  level  with  the  surrounding  country. 
Dover,  and  some  other  less  important  places,  may  be  re- 
garded as  exceptions  to  this  remark ; still  even  they  have ' 
none  of  that  surpassing  beauty  of  position  that  belongs 
to  these  Grecian  towns.  The  noble  amphitheatre  of 
hills  and  mountains,  rising  one  above  another,  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  is  wanting.  So  also  is  the  green 
foliage  of  the  olive  and  the  orange,  embosoming  lovely 
villas  often  to  the  very  summit  of  the  mountain.  The 
whole  scene  of  enchantment  is  often  crowned  with  ex- 
tensive monastic  establishments  and  churches  which 
occupy  the  pinnacles  of  the  mountains.  These  edi- 
fices, as  well  as  the  country-houses  and  cottages  that 
occupy  the  declivities  below,  are  kept  perfectly  white, 


Enchanting  Scenes.  27 

and  seen  in  a clear  day  and  by  the  rising  or  setting 
sun,  are  dazzling. 

This  very  imperfect  description  applies  to  all  the 
towns  we  have  yet  seen  in  Greece,  as  well  as  to 'most 
of  the  maritime  cities  of  Italy  and  the  south  of  France. 
Nearly  the  whole  shore  of  these  seas  is  a wall  of  moun- 
tains rising  abruptly  out  of  the  water,  without  leaving 
space  even  for  a road.  Occasionally  in  some  quiet 
bay  an  alluvial  plain  of  small  extent  has  been  formed 
at  their  base  by  marine  deposits.  The  declivities  in 
such  situations  are  usually  more  gentle  than  elsewhere ; 
and  the  city  built,  the  commercial  part  of  it  upon 
the  narrow  plain  of  the  shore,  and  the  residences  of 
the  more  opulent  and  tasteful  upon  the  ascent  above, 
with  the  cottages,  groves,  villas,  and  churches,  which 
always  constitute  the  back-ground,  is  always  beautiful 
when  beheld  from  the  sea,  or  from  some  of  the  heights 
in  its  neighborhood,  though  upon  a closer  inspection 
of  the  interior,  one  may  find  little  or  nothing  that 
seems  fitted  to  contribute  to  the  agreeable  impression 
produced  by  the  whole.  The  narrow  streets,  the 
wretched  hovels,  the  paltry  shops  and  merchandise, 
and,  above  all,  the  filthy,  ill-clad,  and  wretched  multi- 
tude that  throng  the  public  squares,  seldom  fail  to  dis- 
sipate whatever  illusion  may  have  been  produced  by 
the  goodly  and  gorgeous  tout'ensemhle  which  was  seen 
at  a distance. 

Not  having  been  allowed  to  take  this  nearer  view 
of  Argostoli,  we  shall  leave  its  neighborhood  with  very 
agreeable  impressions.  It  has  the  appearance  of  being 
well  built,  and  of  being  kept  in  good  repair.  The 


28 


Argostoli. 


number  of  vessels  in  the  port,  certainly  more  than  a 
hundred,  of  all  sizes,  though  generally  small,  indicates 
an  active  commerce,  at  least  with  near  neighbors. 
The  land  appears  to  be  more  susceptible  of  culture 
here,  and  to  be  better  tilled  than  the  other  regions 
equally  mountainous  which  we  have  observed.  The 
rugged  sides  of  these  mountains  are  covered  with  a 
thin  soil.  Some  ploughed  fields,  said  to  be  sown  in 
barley,  are  visible  upon  the  more  level  parts.  The 
olive,  which  seems  to  thrive  best  in  the  worst  soils, 
occupies  the  more  bare  and  rocky  portions ; and,  above 
all,  the  Corinthian  currant,  the  chief  product  of  this 
and  the  other  Ionian  islands,  as  well  as  of  the  Morea, 
is  extensively  cultivated. 


1 


CHAPTER  II. 

FROM  ZANTE  TO  HYDRA. 

November  24th.  We  set  sail  this  morning  at  ten, 
the  wind  still  adverse  but  less  violent.  Our  progress 
was  very  slow,  scarcely  three  miles  an  hour — ^the  sea, 
though  not  unnavigable,  was  much  agitated,  and  our 
passage  excessively  uncomfortable.  It  was  after  dark 
before  we  passed  the  harbor  and  town  of  Zante,  and 
ten  o’clock  when  we  reached  that  part  of  the  coast  of 
the  island  from  which  we  turned  back  on  Friday. 
Our  course  had  been  hitherto  partially  sheltered  from 
the  violence  of  the  wind  by  these  islands,  and  much 
anxiety  was  felt  lest  upon  entering  the  open  sea,  we 
might  again  find  ourselves  unable  to  proceed,  and  so 
be  coinpelled  to  retrace  our  laborious  and  disagreeable 
course  to  Argostoli — the  only  harbor  during  the  prev- 
alence of  the  Sirocco. 

We  were  happy  to  find  that  the  boat  was  still  able 
to  proceed,  though  slowly.  This  would  have  been 
quite  impossible  had  not  the  wind  declined,  as  it  did 
perceptibly,  a little  before  we  passed  the  last  headland 
of  Zante.  We  retired  to  rest  with  a good  hope  of 
being  able  in  the  course  of  a few  days  at  least,  to  reach 
the  port  for  which  we  were  embarked.  The  time  had 


30 


Navarino. 


already  elapsed  by  one  day,  when  we  had  at  first  ex- 
pected to  be  released  from  the  discomforts  of  our  sea- 
faring life.  The  delay  has  been  attended  with  one 
advantage.  We  have  seen  much  more  of  the  Ionian 
islands  than  falls  to  the  lot  of  travellers  who  are  so 
fortunate  as  to  meet  with  fair  weather  and  a smooth 
sea. 

Nov.  25th.  I arose  this  morning  and  went  upon 
deck  at  half-past  four,  as  we  were  told  we  might  ex- 
pect to  see  Navarino  before  day -light.  This  sluggish 
boat,  however,  is  sure  to  disappoint  the  most  reasonable 
and  moderate  expectations.  It  was  nine  o’clock  before 
we  came  in  sight  of  Navarino  Yecchio,  and  this  was 
several  miles  short  of  the  modern  town.  The  citadel, 
the  only  remains  of  the  ancient  city  visible  to  us,  occu- 
pies the  top  of  a lofty  hill,  at  whose  base  the  town  and 
harbor  are  situated.  It  is  a conspicuous  and  noble 
object,  as  seen  from  the  sea.  It  perfectly  commands 
the  town  and  all  approaches  to  it  by  sea,  but  is  said 
to  be  itself  commanded  by  higher  elevations  within 
cannon  shot.  It  is  in  ruins,  as  well  as  the  town,  of 
which  not  a house  remains.  A few  cottages  on  the 
beach,  at  no  great  distance,  were  indistinctly  visible, 
and  had,  like  everything  seen  on  continental  Greece,  a 
wretched  appearance. 

The  island  of  Sphacteria  extends  from  near  Navarino 
Vecchio,  I should  think,  three  or  four  miles  south- 
ward. It  is  a moderately  elevated  ridge  of  land,  quite 
overlooked  by  the  mountains  on  the  main-land,  be- 
tween which  and  the  island  lies  the  bay  of  Navarino, 
where  the  Turkish  fleet  was  destroyed  by  the  allies. 


M O D O N. 


31 


The  entrance  into  the  bay  is  around  the  south  end  of 
the  island,  between  some  high  rocks  rising  abruptly 
out  of  the  sea. 

The  citadel  of  Navarino  is  ujx)n  the  main-land,  over- 
looking and  apparently  capable  of  commanding  per- 
fectly this  inlet  into  the  harbor.  The  depth  of  water 
is  so  great,  that  large  fleets  of  ships  of  the  line  passed 
the  strait  without  difficulty,  and  made  this  fine  bay, 
which  is  six  miles  in  circumference,  the  bloody  theatre 
upon  which  the  long-protracted  struggle  for  the  inde- 
pendence of  Greece  was  finally  decided.  Whether  the 
great  powers  who  interfered  so  unceremoniously  in  the 
affairs  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  now  approve  of  the 
policy  pursued,  is  at  least  questionable.  That  it  was 
unjust  towards  Turkey — a flagrant  violation  of  inter- 
national law — few  of  the  writers  of  the  present  day 
hesitate  to  declare.  It  violated  the  sovereignty  and 
broke  the  spirit  of  a nation  which  is  now  regarded  as  a 
great  bulwark  against  the  ambition  of  Eussia.  It  re- 
mains to  be  seen  whether  the  degenerate  race  in  whose 
behalf  this  sacrifice  of  blood,  and  still  more  deplorable 
sacrifice  of  principle,  was  made,  is  destined  to  make 
some  atonement  to  humanity  for  the  crime  upon  which 
its  independence  was  built,  by  assuming  a worthy  and 
honorable  place  amongst  civilized  and  Christian  na- 
tions. 

The  next  object  of  interest  on  this  coast,  and  about 
six  miles  distant  from  Navarino,  is  Modon, — a fortress 
built  upon  a point  of  land  projecting  into  the  sea. 
This  is  regarded  as  the  strongest  place  in  Greece,  and 
is  kept  in  repair,  and  garrisoned  by  a considerable 


32 


Bay  of  Coron. 


body  of  Greek  troops.  The  town,  as  usual,  consists  of 
some  ten  or  twelve  hovels,  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  walls.  Opposite  Modon  is  the  bare  and  rocky 
island  of  Sapienza,  which  extends  several  miles  south 
ward, — forming  a sound,  one  or  two  miles  broad 
Near  this  is  the  smaller  isle  of  St.  Marie,  and  at  a little 
distance  farther  south  is  Cabrera, — more  forbidding 
and  desolate  in  its  appearance  than  the  other  two,  and 
apparently  nearly  as  extensive  as  Sapienza.  The 
channel  between  these  islands  and  the  main-land  is 
sheltered  from  most  winds,  and  may  be,  I should 
think,  good  anchorage.  It  is  exposed,  however,  to  the 
Sirocco.  These  islands  are  bare  mountains,  with  only 
here  and  there  a thin  soil.  The  mountains  upon  the 
opposite  coast  are  of  the  same  description, — bare  of 
trees — of  the  color  of  ashes — more  precipitous  and 
much  more  lofty.  The  whole  region  bids  defiance  to 
culture. 

Our  passage  by  Cape  Gallo,  and  across  the  bay  of 
Coron — the  ancient  bay  of  Messenia — was  rough  and 
uncomfortable.  The  bay,  measured  from  Cape  Gallo 
to  Cape  Matapan,  may  be  twenty -five  miles  wide.  It 
is  quite  unsheltered,  and  the  wind  and  the  waves  filled 
it  with  agitation.  Cape  Matapan  as  the  most  southern 
land  of  the  continent  of  Europe,  is  a point  of  intense 
interest,  though  it  presents  nothing  remarkable  to  the 
voyager.  The  coast  maintains  its  character  of  cheer- 
less sterility.  It  is  here,  as  along  the  rest  of  our  voy- 
age, composed  of  high  and  bare  rocks,  without  vegeta- 
tion or  a single  tree.  We  passed  in  the  night  from 
Cape  Matapan  to  Cape  St.  Angelo, — more  than  thirty 


Bay  of  Nauplia. 


88 


miles  across  the  bay  of  Kolokythia,  the  aneient  bay 
of  Laconia ; so  that  I missed  what  I much  desired  to 
see,  Cerigo,  the  last  of  the  Ionian  islands.  We  passed 
it  about  1 A.  M. ; and  at  daybreak,  when  I went  upon 
deck,  we  had  doubled  Cape  St,  Angelo,  and  were 
steaming  northward,  with  a fair  wind  and  a smooth 
sea. 

Nov.  26th.  T have  seldom  seen  a more  lovely  day 
than  this.  All  the  angry  clouds  which  had  covered 
the  sky  since  our  departure  from  Corfu,  and  even 
after  the  return  of  sunshine  had  lingered  in  the  horizon 
in  a very  suspicious  manner,  had  disappeared.  The 
atmosphere  was  mild  and  soft — ^balmy  would  not  be 
an  inapt  epithet, — and  the  sky  was  bright  and  clear 
beyond  anything  I had  seen  in  Europe,  out  of  Italy. 
We  sailed  along  the  bay  of  Nauplia,  the  ancient  Argos, 
at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  the  hour — wonderful  speed 
for  an  Austrian  steam-boat.  All  the  passengers  were 
now,  for  the  first  time,  able  to^  keep  the  deck,  and  the 
whole  scene  was  one  of  unmingled  pleasure.  • The 
satisfaction  of  the  present  was  heightened  by  contrast 
with  previous  discomfort  and  peril,  and  by  a lively 
anticipation  of  what  was  before  us.  We  were  now 
approaching  the  end  of  .our  voyage,  and  the  most  in- 
teresting portion  of  Greece  was  near  us.  Argos  and 
Mycence  were  at  the  head  of  the  bay ; and  just  beyond 
it,  in  full  view,  was  Hydra,  which  has  earned  a repu- 
tation worthy  of  the  best  days  of  Athens,  by  its  devo- 
tion and  sacrifices  in  the  cause  of  Grecian  liberty. 
We  passed  within  four  or  five  miles  of  Spezzia,  but 
saw  nothing  but  sterile  rocks.  The  town,  which  con- 


84 


Hydra. 


tains  four  thousand  inhabitants,  and  has-  some  mari- 
time prosperity,  was  hidden  from  us  by  an  interesting 
height. 

We  2^assed  near  Hydra,  and  had  a gopd  view  of  the 
island  and  the  town.  Nothing  can  be  more  cheerless 
and  absolutely  forbidding  than  the  whole  aspect  of 
this  place.  It  consists  of  a high  mountain,  absolutely 
a bare  rock,  without  a tree  or  shrub.  Not  a field  nor  a 
garden  cheers  this  desolate  waste.  It  is  said  that  there 
is  not  upon  the  whole  island  enough  earth  to  form  a 
grave.  The  harbor  even,  the  only  boon  which  nature 
has  conferred  upon  this  doomed  spot,  is  insecure,  and, 
to  a great  extent,  artificial ; and  in  the  days  of  their 
commercial  and  maritime  greatness,  the  Hydriots  were 
compelled,  when  certain  winds  j)revailed,  to  find  a 
shelter  for  their  ships  behind  some  rocky  islands  in 
the  neighborhood. 

The  only  thing  that  recommended  this  spot  was  the 
security  it  afibrded  against  Turkish  oppression.  Ani- 
mated by  a noble  love  of  liberty,  these  brave  men 
built  a city  upon  its  rocky  shore,  that  soon  rose 
to  great  commercial  importance.  They  were  all 
merchants  and  mariners,  and  grew  rich  by  the  carry- 
ing trade.  They  had,  before  the  Kevolution,  a city 
built  of  granite  and  marble — a population  of  four 
thousand — and  four  hundred  ships.  These,  with  all 
their  wealth,  were  consumed  in  the  struggle,  though 
tlie  town  was  never  sacked, — secured  by  its  position 
from  the  common  fate  of  Greece.  The  houses  are  now 
mostly  empty.  Five  thousand  are  all  that  remain  of 
this  gallant  people.  They  are  no  longer  rich;  they 


The  Hydriots. 


35 


subsist  barely  by  maritime  enterprise,  but  their  trade 
has  mostly  disappeared.  The  Hydriot  was  the  chief 
instrument  in  securing  Grecian  independence.  They 
furnished  the  most  distinguished  naval  commanders. 
Their  fire-ships  were  the  terror  of  the  Turkish  fleet, 
and  their  successes  revived  the  spirit  and  hopes  of  the 
people  when  depressed  by  disasters. 

The  remnant  of  the  people  deserve  well  of  the  na- 
tion. Their  city,  with  so  few  natural  advantages,  and 
in  the  absence  of  the  adventitious  circumstances  that 
raised  it  to  such  a height  of  prosperity,  is  probably 
destined  to  still  further  decline.  The  towns  of  conti- 
nental Greece,  with  the  advantages  of  better  harbors 
and  of  a back  country  susceptible  of  agricultural  im- 
provement, present  superior  attractions  to  emigrants 
from  abroad,  and  have  even  drawn  a large  majority  of 
the  Hydriots  from  their  barren  rocks,  to  become 
inhabitants  of  more  favored  regions.  Many  of  them 
are  said  to  have  taken  up  their  residence  in  Syr  a, 
which  possesses  great  commercial  advantages. 


CHAPTER  III. 


BAY  OF  EGINA. 

Having  passed  Hydra  and  Cape  Skyllo,  wRicli  is 
nearly  opposite  to  it  upon  the  coast  of  the  Morca,  we 
had  a line  view  of  the  bay  of  Egina,  its  islands,  and 
the  surrounding  coast.  I was  quite  unprepared  to  see 
so  noble  a sheet  of  water.  It  is  much  more  extensive 
than  the  bay  of  Naples,  being,  I should  think,  not  less 
than  sixty  or  seventy  miles  in  compass.  It  wants,  too, 
tlie  noble  city,  as  well  as  the  smaller  towns  that  rise  on 
all  sides  of  the  latter,  and  make  it  the  most  enchanting 
and  magnificent  locality  in  Europe,  or  probably  in  the 
world.  Yet  if  any  part  of  the  world  is  worthy  to  be 
compared  with  this,  it  is  the  gulf  of  Egina,  and  I can- 
not but  think  there  are  some  features  of  striking  re- 
semblance, though  my  companions,  to  whom  I pointed 
out  this  likeness,  could  not  discern  it,  or  at  least  did 
not  feel  it  as  vividly  as  I did. 

To  my  view  the  promontory  of  Sunium  and  of  Cape 
Skyllo  answered  well  to  Sorento  and  the  opposite 
headland  that  form  the  entrance  to  the  bay  of  Naples, 
while  the  islands  of  St.  George,  Zea,  and  Hydra,  are 
similar  enough  in  their  situation  and  appearance  to 
Capri  d’Ischia  to  constitute  a very  decided  likeness  to 


Bay  of  Egina. 


37 


the  entrance  of  the  bay  of  Naples,  when  seen  from 
within  ; and  then  the  lofty  ridges  of  Hymettus,  and 
the  other  mountains  which  reach  from  Cape  Sunium 
to  Athens,  and  those  again  that  constitute  the  island 
of  Salamis  and  its  magnificent  background,  as  seen  by 
one  approaching  the  Pirasus,  form  a scene  of  beauty 
and  even  of  impressive  grandeur  which  lacks  nothing 
but  Vesuvius,  with  its  eternal  cloud  of  smoke,  to  make 
it  equal  to  any  other  scene  of  loveliness  and  sublimity 
upon  which  my  eye  has  rested. 

The  Acropolis  was  in  full  view  at  least  twenty -five 
miles  from  the  shore,  and  by  the  aid  of  telescopes  we 
were  able,  in  this  transparent  atmosphere,  to  discern 
the  splendid  temples  and  ruins  that  crown  this  classic 
mount,  and  even  to  distinguish  and  determine  accu- 
rately the  different  objects,  from  their  resemblance  to 
the  engravings  with  which  we  were  familiar.  The 
city,  rising  from  its  ruins,  soon  becomes  visible,  as  did 
the  beautiful  plain  of  Attica,  which  extends  from  the 
sea  to  the  city,  and  stretches  away  for  many  miles  to 
the  north  and  the  north-east,  till  it  meets  the  lofty 
mountains  by  which  it  is  bounded.  It  was  a glorious 
view,  and  I have  seldom  been  able  to  look  upon  a 
scene  so  famous  in  the  history  of  the  world,  with  a 
feeling  so  unmingled  with  disappointment — with  a sat- 
isfaction so  perfectly  sustained. 

Nature,  I could  not  but  feel,  has  here  prepared  a 
worthy  theatre  for  the  creations  of  genius  and  the 
achievements  of  heroic  patriotism.  A more  intimate 
acquaintance  with  Athens,  and  a careful  observation 
of  its  topography,  have  fully  sustained  these  first  im- 


38 


First  View  of  Athens. 


pressions.  There  is  nowhere  else  such  a multitude  of 
commanding  positions.  Every  important  edifice  com* 
manded  some  large,  magnificent  prospect.  The  site  of 
the  greater  part  of  the  ancient  as  well  as  the  modern 
towns  is  sufficiently  level,  yet  it  comprehends  several 
lofty  hills,  rising  abruptly  or  more  gradually  into 
heights  of  various  but  considerable  altitudes',  overlook- 
ing each  other,  the  city  and  the  plain  of  Attica,  and 
commanding  all  of  them  the  most  enchanting  view  of 
the  mountains,  the  gulf,  and  the  archipelago,  with  sev- 
eral of  its  islands. 

The  Acropolis  rises  precipitously  near  the  centre  of 
the  old  city,  to  the  height  of,  I should  think,  two  hun- 
dred feet.  It  of  course  overlooks  all  the  other  parts 
of  the  town  ; and  the  glorious  structures  with  which  it 
is  crowned  are  visible  at  great  distances  to  those  who 
approach  the  city  by  sea  or  land.  Mars  Hill  is  only  a 
little  less  elevated,  and  commands  on  all  sides,  except 
that  towards  the  citadel,  a view  hardly  less  extensive 
and  delightful.  The  Pnyx,  the  hill  upon  which  the 
assemblies  of  the  people  met  and  consulted  in  the  open 
air,  is  nearly  of  the  same  height.  The  eye  of  the  ora- 
tor who  spoke  from  the  tribune  looked  down  upon  the 
city  which  was  spread  out  before  him  like  a map. 
The  Acropolis,  with  all  its  splendid  structures,  was  in 
full  view  to  the  right.  A little  to  the  left,  also  in  full 
view,  rose  upon  lower  ground  the  temple  of  Theseus 
the  founder  of  the  city,  which,  after  a lapse  of  two 
thousand  four  hundred  years,  is  the  most  perfect  and 
complete  structure  that  bears  testimony  to  the  genius 
of  the  ancients. 


Pulpit  of  Demosthenes.  89 

It  is  obvious  tliat  tlie  position  of  tlie  Athenian  forum 
was  chosen  for  effect,  and  not  accidentally.  The  tribune 
from  which  the  orator  spoke,  is  said  formerly  to  have 
commanded  a view  of  the  ports  of  Salamis  and  the 
whole  gulf  of  Egina,  as  well  as  the  range  of  magnificent 
objects  above  enumerated.  Themistocles  was  wont  to 
point  to  the  fleets,  and  to  the  theatre  of  the  naval  glory 
of  his  countrymen,  in  order  to  inspire  them  with  addi- 
tional attachment  for  the  maritime  service,  which  he 
regarded  as  the  means  of  warfare  best  suited  to  the 
Athenians. 

The  Thirty  Tyrants,  by  removing  the  Bema  nearer 
to  the  Agora,  and  a little  farther  down  the  hill,  effect- 
ually concealed  those  inspiring  objects  from  the  view 
both  of  the  speaker  and  the  people.  This  was  done  in 
order  to  repress  the  ardor  of  the  people  for  high  enter- 
prises, and  with  this  for  freedom.  About  twenty  or 
thirty  yards  in  the  rear  of  the  pulpit  of  Demosthenes 
there  are  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  and  other  appearances 
to  justify  the  opinion  that  that  was  the  post  of  the  ora- 
tor before  the  days  of  the  Tyrants. 

From  that  spot,  all  the  objects  above  enumerated — 
maritime  and  inland — as  well  as  the  more  distant  moun  - 
tains which  nature  had  reared  up  like  walls  for  the 
ornament  and  security  of  Attica,  were  in  view  of  the 
orator  when  he  harangued  the  Athenians  to  resistance 
and  to  daring  enterprises.  A situation  more  favorable 
to  high  displays  of  oratory  and  to  powerful  effects, 
certainly  never  existed ; and  one  is  less  surprised  at  the 
superior  efficiency  of  Athenian  eloquence  after  stand- 
ing upon  the  platform  where  Demosthenes  pronounced 


40 


Mars  Hill. 


Ins  masterly  harangues,  and  viewing  the  inspiring  oh- 
jeets  that  offered  their  powerful  aid  in  exeiting  and 
controlling  the  passions  of  the  most  intelligent  and 
mercurial  peojole  who  ever  listened  to  the  voice  of  an 
orator. 

The  sites  of  all  the  public  buildings,  theatres,  tem- 
ples, and  schools,  were  chosen  with  the  same  good  taste 
and  philosophical  view  to  effect.  It  should  be  stated 
that  the  pulj)it  of  Demosthenes  was  not  one  of  those 
boxes  bearing  the  name  in  our  days,  but  a broad  plat- 
form of  solid  rock,  ascended  by  three  or  four  steps. 
It  was  nearly  thirty  feet  long  and  twenty  wide,  with  no- 
thing before  the  speaker,  who  was  fully  exposed  to  the 
audience,  and  had  ample  room  to  walk  to  and  fro,  and 
indulge  in  the  vehement  action  which  we  know  char- 
acterized Grecian  eloquence. 

The  Apostle  Paul  seems  to  have  availed  himself  of 
the  favorable  local  circumstances  that  the  elevated  posi- 
tion of  the  Areopagus  supplied,  in  his  discourse  to  the 
curious  Athenians.  I have  already  said  that  this  hill 
was  nearly  as  high  as  the  Acropolis — not  less,  I should 
think,  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
Ilissus.  It,  too,  is  a rock,  rising  abruptly  on  all  sides 
but  the  western.  It  is  ascended  by  a flight  of  steps 
cut  out  of  the  solid  stone.  The  top,  too,  has  been 
levelled  by  the  chisel,  and  presents  an  extensive  surface, 
capable  of  accommodating  a large  assembly.  There 
are  scats  also  on  a part  of  the  rock,  which  are  sup- 
posed, no  doubt  correctly,  to  have  been  occupied  by 
the  judges. 

It  was  in  the  middle  of  this  noble  area  that  the 


PAUL  PREACHINc;  AT  ATHENS. 


Mars  Hill. 


41 


Apostle  stood,  when  he,  with  so  much  courage  and 
skill,  reproved  the  Athenians  for  their  idolatry,  and 
preached  to  them  the  Unknown  God,  who  made  the 
world  and  all  things,  and  dwelleth  not  in  temples  made 
by  hands.  From  the  position  where  the  Apostle  then 
stood,  he  had  all  the  principal  temples  of  .Athens  in 
full  view  before  him,  including  certainly  the  most  per- 
fect and  sumptuous  structures  ever  reared  for  religious 
worship.  The  evidence  of  their  superstition  was  clear 
and  conclusive,  and  not  to  be  contradicted  by  those 
whose  eyes  rested  upon  the  Partheon,  the  Theseion, 
and  all  the  minor  temples  of  the  Acropolis  and  the 
Agora. 

The  Academy  of  Plato,  about  two  miles  north  of 
the  city,  upon  the  plain  of  Attica,  combined  with  the  se- 
clusion and  stillness  most  congenial  to  study  and  med- 
itation, an  enchanting  view  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
sublime  scenery.  It  is  within  a quarter  of  a mile  of 
two  little  hills  of  similar  shape  and  elevation.  It  was 
by  these  hills,  compared  by  an  ancient  writer  to  the 
breasts  of  a woman,  that  the  site  of  the  academy  was 
ascertained,  as  no  monument  or  ruins  remained  to  at- 
test it.  Many  fragments  of  sculpture,  and,  I believe, 
some  inscriptions,  have  since  been  found  in  excavating 
for  building  and  in  agriculture.  The  ground  is  now 
occupied  by  a vineyard  and  a country  seat. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  ATHENS. 

The  Theseion,  a temple  dedicated  to  Theseus,  built 
in  the  age  of  Cimon,  is  the  best  preserved  of  all  the 
ancient  edifices  of  Athens.  It  is  certainly  the  finest 
specimen  of  architecture  that  I have  seen.  This  edi* 
fice  has  suffered  little  from  the  lapse  of  centuries.  All 
its  columns  are  standing.  The  cella  has  apparently 
undergone  some  repairs,  and  a portion  of  it  near  the 
eastern  front  is  covered  with  stucco.  The  ornaments 
of  the  frieze  are  mostly  gone,  though  some  very  fine 
sculptured  figures,  having  reference  to  tlie  achieve- 
ments of  Hercules,  still  remain.  They  increase  our  re- 
gret for  what  is  irrevocably  lost. 

This  temple  has  fourteen  beautiful  Ionic  columns 
on  each  side,  and  six  on  each  front.  Two  also  stand 
at  each  of  the  doors  or  entrances  into  the  interior  of 
the  temple,  of  which  the  eastern  front  had  one,  and 
the  western  another.  The  whole  number  of  columns 
is  forty-two.  The  present  roof  of  the  temple  is  mod- 
ern. There  was  none  originally,  though  it  is  believed 
an  awning  was  sometimes  used  as  a substitute.  The 
site  is  upon  a hill  which  quite  overlooks  the  city, 


The  Tiieseion. 


43 


though  of  less  elevation  than  the  Areopagus  and  the 
Pnyx. 

The  materials  are  the  fine  white  marble  of  Mount 
Pentilecus,  of  which  all  the  public  buildings  of  Athens 
were  composed.  The  quarry,  which  is  still  worked,  is 
about  ten  miles  from  the  city.  The  columns  of  this 
temple  no  longer  shine  with  their  original  snowy 
whiteness.  Twenty* two  centuries  have  imparted  to 
them  a rich  autumnal  hue,  inimitable  by  the  painter, 
in  harmony  with  the  serious  but  agreeable  reflections 
which  this  venerable  historical'  monument  is  so  well 
calculated  to  excite.  The  Theseion  is  now  a Greek 
church,  though  not  used  for  the  ordinary  purposes  of 
worship. 

At  no  great  distance  from  this  edifice,  to  the  east, 
and  in  the  heart  of  the  modern  city,  stand  several  pil- 
lars in  good  preservation,  surmounted  by  a portion  of 
the  ancient  architrave.  This  is  presumed  to  be  the 
remains  of  an^  ancient  temple,  but  to  whom  dedicated 
is  not  well  ascertained.  It  has  been  thought  to  have 
been  erected  under  the  Koman  sway,  in  honor  perhaps 
of  one  of  the  emperors.  . 

A little  farther  in  the  same  direction,  enclosing  in 
part  the  present  bazar,  is  a massive  ancient  wall,  evi- 
dently a part  of  a quadrangle.  The  northern  side  is 
nearly  perfect.  It  is,  I should  conjecture,  for  I had 
not  an  opportunity  of  measuring  it,  at  least  a thousand 
feet  in  length  and  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height. 
A part  of  the  western  front  also  remains,  which  seems 
to  have  been  the  principal  one,  and  to  have  contained 
the  principal  entrance.  It  is  still  adorned  with  eleven 


44 


Tower  of  the  Winds. 


Doric  columns,  several  of  them  in  good  preservation. 
The  whole  is  built  in  the  most  substantial  manner,  of 
large  blocks  of  hewn  stone,  and  if  it  shall  not  be  de- 
molished by  man,  may  exist  for  thousands  of  years  to 
come.  It  is  thought  to  have  formed  a part  of  the  an- 
cient Agora,  or  market-place,  for  which  it  is  still  used. 
It  reminded  me  strongly  of  the  massive  wall  in  Kome, 
known  as  the  forum  of  Nerva. 

TOWER  OF  THE  WINDS. 

Still  farther  east  is  a small  octagonal  building  in 
good  preservation,  called  the  Tower  of  the  Winds. 
Upon  its  eight  faees  are  so  many  emblematical  figures,  ‘ 
representing  the  various  winds  which  are  most  fre- 
quent in  Attica.  Those  figures  flying  through  the  air 
— horizontal  nearly  in  their  position — express  both  by 
their  visages  and  habiliments,  the  peculiar  character 
of  their  several  winds.  Those  which  represent  warm 
and  genial  breezes,  are  unclad,  and  have  a mild  ex- 
pression of  countenance.  The  embodied  representa- 
tions of  damp  and  chilling  blasts  are  robed  in  winter 
vestments,  and  have  a stern  and  ferocious  expression. 
The  conception  of  the  whole,  as  well  as  the  execution, 
is  exquisitely  beautiful.  This  fabric  was  surmounted 
by  a Triton,  moveable  upon  a pivot  to  indicate  the 
direction  of  the  wind.  It  served  also  as  a sun-dial. 
By  it  many  persons  still  regulate  their  time-pieces. 

Finally,  there  are  some  remains  of  a Clepsydra,  or 
water-clock,  which  kept  the  time  in  cloudy  weather. 
A part  of  the  aqueduct  which  conducted  a stream  of 


Lantern  of  Demostuenes.  45 

water  to  move  this  machine,  is  still  entire.  It  ap- 
proaches to  within  a few  feet  of  the  town.  The  con- 
struction of  this  curious  chronometer  is  not  known, 
but  the  most  able  antiquaries  agree  in  believing  that 
the  remains  under  consideration  belong  to  such  a ma- 
chine. Altogether,  this  structure  is  one  of  the  most 
curious  and  interesting  remains  of  ancient  art. 

THE  LANTERN  OF  DEMOSTHENES. 

The  Lantern  of  Demosthenes  is  near  the  north-east 
part  of  the  Acropolis.  This  is  a beautiful  structure  in 
marble,  with  finely  sculptured  ornaments  in  the  frieze. 
Its  figure  is,  I think,  hexagonal,  with  a graceful  Ionic 
pillar  at  each  angle,  projecting  in  high  relief  from  the 
cella.  It  is  hardly  more  than  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and 
it  is  now  generally  admitted  that  it  was  formerly  sur- 
mounted with  a tripod  in  honor  of  those  who  had  ex- 
celled in  the  performances  of  the  theatre. 

- An  ancient  street,  called  the  Street  of  the  Tripods, 
extended  from  this  beautiful  edifice  over  very  precipi- 
tous ground,  along  the  base,  or  rather  upon  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Acropolis,  to  the  theatre  of  Bacchus.  This 
whole  street  was  occupied  by  splendid  trophies  of 
their  theatrical  victories,  which  gave  it  the  name. 
Two  only  remain  beside  the  Lantern  of  Demosthenes. 
These  are  two  simple  marble  pillars,  which  stand  upon 
a high  cliff  that  overhangs  the  theatre. 

They  were  formerly  surmounted  by  tripods,  as  is 
known  by  an  inscription  found  upon  the  spot.  Upon 
the  same  cliff,  by  the  side  of  these  columns,  stands  a 


46 


Theatre  of  Bacchus. 


curious  sun-dial,  made  of  a larg6  block  of  marble — its 
southern  surface  concave— upon  which  are  drawn  the 
lines  that  mark  the  hours  of  the  day.  This  was  visible 
to  the  people  in  the  theatre,  and  was  doubtless  for 
their  accommodation. 

The  theatre  of  Bacchus  is  excavated  in  this  side  of 
the  Acropolis,  almost  immediately  below  the  Parthenon. 
It  is  semi-circular,  of  immense  extent—the  arc  toward 
the  Acropolis,  and  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock — the  chord 
upon  the  declivity  of  the  hill  toward  the  Ilissus.  This 
lower  side  was  supported  by  an  immense  wall  of  large 
blocks  of  hewn  stone,  many  of  which  are  still  in  their 
places.  The  seats  rose  amphitheatrically  upon  the  side  ' 
of  the  hill,  one  above  another  to  a great  elevation.  The 
greater  part  of  these  is  covered  with  a mass  of  rub- 
bish. Some  of  the  highest  seats  have  been  disinterred. 
These  are  cut  in  the  solid  rock. 

This,  as  well  as  the  other  Grecian  theatres,  was  with- 
out a roof,  the  exhibitions  being  in  the  open  air.  It 
commands  a grand  view  of  Ilymettus,  the  sea,  and 
several  of  the  interesting  localities,  calculated  to  have 
/an  inspiring  influence  upon  the  audience  as  well  as  the 
performers,  an  object  of  which  these  people  never  lost 
sight  in  choosing  the  sites  of  their  public  assemblies. 
The  theatre  of  Bacchus  was  capable  of  seating  at  least 
from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  people.  It  is  difficult  to 
conceive  how  a speaker  in  the  open  air  could  make 
himself  heard  by  the  vast  multitudes  who  assembled 
here,  and  in  the  jolace  of  public  meetings  upon  the' 
Pnyx.  The  climate  is  certainly  very  favorable.  This 
pure  atmosphere  transmits  sound  admirably,  and  I 


Temple  op  Jupitee  Olympius.  47 

am  sure  that  a man  may  be  heard^  as  well  as  seen^ 
distinctly  much  farther  than  nnder  more,  troubled 
skies. 

The  Odeium  of  Regilla  is  a Eoman  theatre,  also  high 
up  the  side  of  the  Acropolis,  and  commanding,  like 
that  of  Bacchus,  a magnificent  view  of  land  and  sea. 
It  is  very  large,  though  of  less  extent  than  the  other. 
Tery  large  remains  of  the  walls  are  extant.  The  en- 
trance  looks  to  the  north-east,  where  the  arches  rising 
upon  arches  remind  one  of  the  Flavian  amphitheatre 
at  Eome.  This  structure  is  of  a comparatively  mod- 
ern era,  and  it  never  was,  like  the  theatre  of  Bacchus, 
associated  with  the  public  business  as  well  as  the 
amusements  of  the  Athenians.  Many  of  the  marble 
seats  of  this  theatre  are  still  in  their  place,  and  the 
workmanship  is  substantial.  It  was  built  by  Herodes 
Atticus,  and  named  in  honor  of  his  wife. 


THE  TEMPLE  OP  JUPITER  OLYMPIUS. 

This  temple  is  east  of  the  city,  near  the  Ilissus.  This 
was  unquestionably  the  largest  and  most  sumptuous 
of  Greek  temples,— it  was  perhaps  the  largest  in  the 
world.  Begun  in  the  early  ages  of  Greece,  it  was  sev- 
eral centuries  in  building.  The  emperor  Adrian  com- 
pleted it.  Nothing  remains  but  the  immense  platform 
upon  which  the  vast  edifice  was  reared,  and  sixteen 
splendid  Corinthian  columns,  which  still  bear  testi- 
mony to  its  grandeur.  They  are  about  sixty  feet  in 
height  and  twenty  in  circumference,  all  of  Pentelic 


48  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius. 


marble.*  A portion  of  the  architrave  still  rests  upon 
these  pillars.  It  consists  of  massive  blocks  of  marble, 
which  lead  us  to  admire  the  skill  that  raised  them  so 
high,  when,  if  the  conjectures  of  many  learned  men 
are  correct,  little  was  known  of  those  contrivances  by 
which  human  strength  is  now  aided  in  accomplishing 
such  works.  Upon  a portion  of  this  architrave  is  a 
cell,  built  of  brick,  in  which  it  is  said  a hermit  spent 
many  years  of  his  life,  having  his  food  brought  to  him 
by  means  of  a ladder  of  ropes.  lie  remained  for  six 
years  in  this  aerial  habitation  without  descending. 
The  foundation  of  this  temple  covers  several  acres. 

* Thomas  Bellot,  F.R.C.S.E.,  Surgeon  of  the  Royal  Navy,  gives 
the  following  account  of  the  fall  of  one  of  these  pillars,  a catastrophe 
of  which  he  was  an  eye  witness : — “ On  the  night  of  the  26th  of  Oc- 
tober, 1852,  the  centre  pillar  of  the  three,  which  formed  a part  of 
the  inner  south  peristyle  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius,  was 
thrown  down  by  the  gale  from  the  south-east.  The  column  fell  due 
north,  and  lies  prostrate,  the  drums  (the  sections  of  the  shaft)  pre- 
serving nearly  their  relative  positions,  though  separated.  The  fallen 
pieces  lie  horizontally,  and  nearly  touch  each  other,  like  bricks 
arranged  to  knock  each  other  down  in  their  fall.  The  upper  half 
of  the  capital,  with  its  Corinthian  volutes,  is  completely  capsized. 
The  square  marble  base  of  the  column  rested  upon  two  square  courses 
of  coarse  limestone,  two  feet  thick  each  course.  The  soil  or  earth 
giving  way  under  the  north  side  of  the  pillar,  the  course  broke 
across  from  east  to  west,  and  when  the  column  was  inclined  at  a cer- 
tain angle,  the  second  drum  or  section  slipped  off  the  first  or  lowest, 
carrying  with  it  all  the  upper  column  in  one  piece.  The  column 
fell  at  a right  angle  to  the  long  diameter  of  the  temple,  which  lies 
east  and  west.  The  drums  were  each  connected  by  two  small  iron 
bars,  five  inches  long  and  an  inch  and  a half  square,  fitted  with  lead 
into  the  marble,  so  as  to  prevent  the  oxidation  of  the  iron  discoloi'- 
ing  the  marble.  These  bars  are  either  drawn*  from  their  sockets  or 
broken  across.  Tlie  pillar  is  capable  of  being  re-erected.” 


The  Ilissus. 


49 


It  must  have  been  the  most  expensive  of  ancient 
temples. 

The  columns  are  the  most  magnificent  I have  seen. 
It  is  believed  that  there  were  at  least  one  hundred  and 
sixty,  — many  more  according  to  some  antiquaries. 
Enough  does  not  remain  to  furnish  a full  plan  of  the 
original  edifice,  though  no  doubt  is  left  that  it  was  the 
principal  work  of  the  kind  in  Greece.  Some  very 
large  remains  of  the  terrace  which  supported  the  foun- 
dation of  this  temple  upon  the  south,  are  still  to  be 
seen.  This  wall  is  constructed  of  large  blocks  of 
hewn  stone,  and  has  an  elevation  of  nearly  twenty  feet 
in  the  highest  part.  This  was  demanded  by  the  nature 
of  the  ground,  which  here  declines  very  rapidly  to- 
wards the  Ilissus. 

This  ancient  river  is  now  dry.  Its  bed  lies  along 
the  base  of  Mount  Hymettus — is  rocky,  and  in  some 
places  precipitous.  During  my  stay  in  Greece  it  had 
no  water.  It  makes  some  figure  in  the  Greek  writers, 
though  it  was  only  an  inconsiderable  rivulet,  serving 
the  ancient  city  for  a variety  of  useful  purposes.  It 
flowed  close  to  the  walls  of  the  city.  It  was  probably 
a perennial  stream,  though  it  is. said  to  have  forsaken 
its  channel  at  times  to  'pursue  a subterranean  course. 
Now  it  is  dry  for  eight  months  in  the  year. 

THE  STADIUM. 

The  stadium,  the  place  for  gymnastic  exercises,  was 
situated  less  than  half  a mile  from  the  temple  of  Jupi- 
ter Qlympius,  higher  up  the  Ilissus,  and  on  the  oppo- 

3 


60 


The  Stadium. 


site  side.  * A stone  bridge,  of  wbicb  there  are  ample 
remains,  gave  access  to  it  from  the  city.  This  stadium 
is  excavated  from  the  lower  declivity  of  Mount  Ily- 
mettus.  It  is  of  an  oblong  form,  and  of  great  extent, 
capable  of  holding  all  the  citizens  of  Athens  when  its 
population  was  greatest.  Nothing  remains  but  the  ex- 
cavated area, — the  seats  and  other  apartments  having 
long  since  disappeared.  It  was  an  amphitheatre ; and 
rising  from  the  centre,  which  was  the  arena  devoted  to 
the  wrestlers,  were  the  seats  for  the  spectators,  one 
above  another  for  a great  distance  up  the  inclined 
sides  which  were  formed  by  excavating  the  hill. 

By  a careless  observer  this  area  might  be  mistaken 
for  a small  valley  formed  by  the  hand  of  nature.  Its 
perfect  regularity  of  form,  however,  demonstrates  that 
it  was  wrought  by  human  skiU.  The  notices  of 
ancient  writers  leave  no  doubt  that  it  is  the  Stadium. 
Undet*  the  Koman  dominion,  it  was  devoted  to  the 
contests  of  gladiators.  The  Greeks,  it  is  believed, 
never  encouraged  this  species  of  amusement,  and  none 
of  their  public  places  seem  to  have  been  constructed 
for  this  purpose.  Nothing  gives  us  so  unfavorable  an 
opinion  of  the  Eoman  character  as  their  fondness  for 
these  bloody  exhibitions.  . A people  who  could  relish 
such  amusements  must,  no  doubt,  have  been  essentially 
defective  in  the  finer  sensibilities  of  our  nature,  or 
grievously  demoralized  by  long  familiarity  with  scenes 
of  violence  and  crime. 

The  Lyceum  was  situated  about  half  a mile  farther 
up  the  Ilissus,  in  a retired  and  quiet  spot  near  the 
city,  and  yet  sufficiently  remote  from  its  tumults  to 


The  Lyceum. 


51 


favor  study  and  contemplation.  There  the  ingenuous 
youth  of  Athens  resorted,  to  imbibe  the  lessons  of 
wisdom  and  virtue  to  which  this  classic  spot  was  con- 
secrated. Some  gardens  and  a field  of  wheat  now 
occupy  the  level  spot,  which  antiquarians  agree  in 
assigning  to  the  groves  of  the  Lyceum.  Not  a tree  re- 
mains. No  vestige  of  the  structures  which  adorned 
this  haunt  of  the  Athenian  philosophers — none  of  the 
splendid  fountains  and  statuary  which  lent  their 
attractions  to  the  scene — have  escaped  the  ravages  of 
time  and  the  cupidity  of  collectors. 

The  Lyceum  is  nearly  east  of  the  city,  much  nearer 
than  the  Academy ; but  its  situation  is  less  conspicuous 
and  commanding,  and  not  less  favorable  to  contempla- 
tive retirement.'  None  of  the  interesting  localities  of 
Athens  have  at  present  less  to  distinguish  them  from 
the  surrounding  region  in  which  they  are  nearly  lost, 
than  these  two  celebrated  spots.  Probably  they  never 
contained  any  considerable  structures.  The  groves, 
under  whose  shades  the  lessons  of  wisdom  were  uttered 
— some  seats,  to  diminish  the  fatigues  of  study,  with 
the  fountains  and  statues,  always  to  be  found  in  the 
gardens  and  promenades  of  the  Greeks  as  well  as  the 
Eomans, — were  composed  of  such  materials  as  could 
easily  be  removed  and  converted  to  other  purposes. 
This  may  account  for  the  want  of  all  such  remains  as 
might  have  been  expected  to  fix  their  localities  with  a 
degree  of  certainty  that  should  be  entirely  satisfactory 
to  the  curious  inquirer. 

Fortunately,  these  sites  are  surrounded  by  some  of 
those  permanent  natural  objects  which  remain  when 


52 


The  Lyceum. 


the  works  of  man  are  obliterated.  By  them  we  are 
guided  to  the  interesting  places  where  Socrates  and 
Plato  instructed  the  youth  of  Athens  in  the  lessons  of 
an  enlarged  and  humanizing  philosophy.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  associations  like  these  that  the  calmest  mind 
is  allowed  to  become  imaginative,  and  finds  it  easy  to 
recall  and  re-people  scenes  that  have  been  consecrated 
by  the  highest  examples  of  wisdom  and  virtue. 


Ti 


- ' 9F''  -I'Wf^' 


-?5?^ 

■X  . . .«*  • « jS<  ’ JM 


9[ 


< ^ 

^ •:■  . v"43|| 


. l^/v 


, iBr^s. ''  - ■ ^ -tt"-  w ■'.»■'  t .^ia  I 


[«.•  e,fe  / 

■ _L-,--  ^ - ,f •;>.  <r>,  ■■--*'.•>■  'i 


I 


I 


CHAPTER  V. 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  ATHENS. 

The  Acropolis  contains  upon  its  summit  some  of 
the  finest  antiquities  of  Athens  and  the  world. 

The  Propylse  stands  at  the  only  entrance  of  this 
fortress.  It  is,  as  its  name  indicates,  the  gateway 
through  which  access  is  had  to  the  interior.  This 
beautiful  structure  stands  upon  the  upper  part  of  the 
steep  declivity  on  the  western  side  of  the  mount.  It 
is  composed  of  magnificent  Doric  columns  of  Pentelic 
marble.  Twenty-one  are  now  standing.  This  colon- 
nade has  two  fronts, — one  towards  the  Pnyx  and  the 
Areopagus,  which  was  seen  by  those  who  ascended  to 
the  citadel, — the  other  towards  the  interior.  They  are 
similar  in  appearance — each  consisting  of  six  columns, 
surmounted  by  an  architrave  and  frieze,  which  was 
formerly  richly  ornamented  with  sculpture.  Another 
row  of  six  columns  stands  between  the  eastern  and 
western  fronts.  The  whole  number  of  columns  wa? 
sixty.  Of  these,  thirty-nine  are  now  standing,  sur 
mounted  for  the  most  part  by  the  architrave. 

The  splendid  sculptured  ornaments  of  the  frieze- 


54 


The  Elgin  Marbles. 

the  chef  d' oeuvre  of  Phidias,  and  the  peculiar  glory  of 
this  temple, — have  been  for  the  most  part  removed. 
Some  of  the  figures  are  lying  mutilated  upon  the 
ground,  but  a large  part  of  them  were  carried  by  Lord 
Elgin  to  England,  where,  under  the  name  of  the  Elgin 
marbles,  they  constitute  the  most  precious  treasure  of 
the  British  Museum.  Lord  Elgin  was  for  a while 
regarded  as  a patron  of  the  arts,  and  a public  benefac- 
tor. This  opinion  has  been  reversed,  and  perhaps  no 
man  has  been  the  object  of  more  frequent  and  bitter 
reproaches.  It  is  difficult  not  to  confirm  the  sentence 
of  condemnation. 

Every  one  who  looks  upon  the  mutilated  fagade  of 
the  Parthenon  must  desire  strongly  to  see  these  dilapi- 
dations restored  so  far  as  may  yet  be  possible.  The 
feeling  may  not  have  been  so  strong  while  the  Turkish 
power  continued;  but  now  that  Greece  has  become 
an  independent  Christian  state,  and  increasing  numbers 
of  scholars  are  annually  visiting  its  classic  remains,  a 
more  deep  pnd  pervading  indignation  will  be  felt 
towards  the  spoiler  of  this  noblest  monument  of 
genius ; and  the  British  nation,  by  retaining  what  was 
so  unjustly  and  sacrilegiously  taken  from  its  rightful 
possessors,  will  be  regarded  as  participators  in  the 
crime. 

The  sculpture  of  the  frieze  that  rests  upon  the  interior 
range  of  pillars  belonging  to  the  western  front,  is 
nearly  entire,  and  most  admirable.  Nothing  can  ex- 
ceed the  truth  and  spirit  of  the  figures ; and  the  finish 
is  exquisite.  How  careful  must  this  great  artist  have 
been  of  his  reputation  ! These  ornaments  were  made 


The  Parthenon. 


55 


to  be  elevated  more  than  forty  feet  from  the  earth, 
where  the  perfection  of  their  finish  cannot  be  appre- 
ciated, and  where  small  defects  must  be  concealed. 
Still,  every  part  is  finished  with  the  most  laborious  and 
accurate  attention.  The  utmost  care  was  bestowed 
upon  beauties  which,  in  their  original  situation,  must 
have  remained  wholly  undiscovered.  Nothing  which 
has  since  been  produced  by  the  chisel  gives  us  so  high 
an  idea  of  the  power  of  sculpture  as  these  fragments 
of  Phidias. 

The  light  and  chaste  proportions  of  this  temple, 
which  can  yet  be  fully  appreciated,  though  a part  has 
fallen,  fill  the  mind  with  lively  admiration.  One  be- 
comes dissatisfied  with  all  inferior  creations  of  the 
architect.  The  choicest  remains  of  Kome  are  heavy 
and  lifeless.  The  beautiful  Madelaine  of  Paris,  an 
avowed  copy,  is  felt  to  be  a bungling  imitation  of 
what  human  genius  seems  destined  never  to  equal. 
In  this  department  of  art,  Athens,  to  the  present  day, 
stands  unrivalled.  The  Parthenon  is  the  crown  of  the 
Acropolis.  It  is  the  first  object  seen  in  approaching 
Athens,  whether  by  land  or  sea,  and  the  view  to  be 
had  from  its  summit  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
interesting  in  the  world. 

There  are  two  other  temples  upon  the  Acropolis. 
Anciently  there  were  several  more,  of  which  no  ves- 
tige now  remains.  The  Erechtheium  is  an  unique  edi- 
fice, having  three  fronts,  through  which  entrance  was 
had  into  as  many  separate  parts  of  this  edifice,  each 
dedicated  to  a separate  divinity,  and  constituting  in 
effect  three  temples.  This  structure  is  in  the  Ionic 


56 


Temple  of  Victory. 


style,  of  which  fourteen  beautiful  columns  are  stand- 
ing.* They  perfectly  satisfy  all  that  the  mind  is  able 
to  conceive  of  chasteness  and  beautiful  proportion. 
Their  slender,  inimitable  form,  contrasts  admirably 
with  the  massive  Doric  pillars  of  the  Parthenon,  which 
we  have  just  left. 

The  main  body  of  this  edifice  is  about  ninety  feet 
in  length.  One  of  the  fronts,  south,  is  adorned  with 
beautiful  caryatides  instead  of  columns,  which  have 
been  the  admiration  of  all  visitors.  One  of  these,  too, 
has  been  rifled  to  adorn  a British  collection. 

Another  small  temple  stands  to  the  right  of  the 
front  of  the  Propylae  in  entering  the  Acropolis.  It 
was  dedicated  to  the  wingless  Victory,  a beautiful 
conception  of  the  Athenian  mythology,  according  to 
which  the  favors  of  the  fickle  goddess  were  to  remain 
forever  with  the  favorites  of  Minerva.  This  temple 
was  for  several  ages  entirely  lost,  but  the  present  in- 
telligent antiquary,  who  is  fortunately  intrusted  with 
the  care  of  the  precious  monuments  of  art  in  Athens 
and  the  vicinity,  has  succeeded  in  discovering  its  scat- 
tered parts,  and  is  reconstructing  one  of  the  most 
agreeable  and  delicate  of  the  ancient  edifices  of  this 
wonderful  place.  It  is  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  has 

* Two  of  these  columns  were  blown  down  and  broken  in  pieces 
by  the  violent  hurricane  which  devastated  Athens  on  the  night  of 
the  26th  of  October,  1862.  The  two  beautiful  cypresses,  one  by  the 
Tower  of  the  Winds,  the  other  by  the  mosque  in  the  Agora,  also  fell ; 
one  of  them  snapped  in  two,  ten  feet  from  the  ground.  There  was 
also  immense  damage  done  to  the  Palace-garden,  where  all  the  large 
trees  were  blown  down,  and  the  interior  of  the  Palace  greatly  in- 
jured on  the  south  side. 


Pulpit  of  Demosthenes.  57 

seven  of  the  eight  original  columns  standing.  The 
cella  is  hardly  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in 
length.  The  site  is  commanding.  It  was  placed  in 
front  of  the  Parthenon,  but  from  its  inferior  size,  does  not 
hide  or  obstruct  the  view  of  that  magnificent  edifice. 

The  other  ancient  structures,  of  which  remains  more 
or  less  perfect  have  come  down  to  us,  are  less  import- 
ant and  striking  than  those  above  enumerated.  North- 
west of  the  Acropolis,  and  distant  about  half  a mile,  is 
a high  hill  called  Museium.  This  is  surmounted  by 
a monument  in  honor  of  Philopappus.  It  is  of  white 
marble,  and  there  are  yet  some  remains  of  the  statues 
of  which  a considerable  number  once  adorned  it.  This 
structure  faces  the  Acropolis,  and  is  about  forty  feet 
in  height. 

The  large  arena  of  the  Pnyx,  designed  for  the  pub- 
lic assemblies  of  the  Athenians,  rests  at  its  lower  side 
upon  a remarkable  terrace.  It  is  of  Cyclo]3ian  archi- 
tecture, constructed  of  enormous  polygonal  stones, 
laid  without  cement.  It  is  certainly  a work  of  the 
earliest  days  of  the  republic.  . This  vast  area  is  exca- 
vated upon  its  upper  side  out  of  the  rock,  to  the  depth 
of  nearly  twenty  feet. 

The  Pulpit  of  Demosthenes  is  excavated  in  the  same 
rock,  as  well  as  the  steps  by  which  it  is  approached  on 
the  side  of  the  area,  and  those  also  which  form  the 
ascent  from  this  platform  to  the  higher  parts  ot  the 
hill,  rising  immediately  behind  the  orator,  where  it  is 
believed  stood  the  old  tribune  which  commanded  a 
view  of  the  sea  and  the  ports.  The  circular  area  of 
the  Pnyx  which  was  thus  prepared  by  this  huge  Cy- 

r * 


68 


Pulpit  of  Demosthenes. 


clopian  wall,  and  bj  excavations  for  the  meetings  of 
the  people,  is  of  great  extent,  capable  of  bolding  at 
least  a thousand.  There  is  no  appearance  of  seats,  nor 
is  it  likely  that  any  such  conveniences  were  provided 
for  the  multitude. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THE  ACROPOLIS. 

The  walls  of  the  Acropolis,  which  enclose  so  many 
precious  monuments  of  antiquity,  are  themselves  well 
worthy  of  attention.  Parts  of  them  are  very  ancient, 
and  of  great  historical  interest.  They  are  the  work 
of  different  ages  and  races.  The  most  ancient  portion 
is  the  Pelasgic  wall  on  the  northern  side  of  the  citadel. 
It  is  thought  to  have  an  antiquity  corresponding  with 
the  residence  of  those  people  in  Greece — an  era  if  not 
strictly  fabulous,  remote  and  obscure.  This  wall  is  of 
the  Cyclopian  style,  and  is  the  only  specimen  of  this 
massive  species  of  architecture  in  Athens.  Farther 
east  upon  the  same  side  of  the  citadel,  is  a portion  of 
the  wall  built  immediately  after  the  retreat  of  the  army 
of  Xerxes.  It  bears  evidence  of  the  haste  with  which 
the  Athenians  reconstructed  their  fortifications,  and 
affords  a very  interesting  confirmation  of  a passage  of 
Grecian  history,  which  reflects  the  deepest  disgrace 
upon  Sparta.  The  jealousy  with  which  that  selfish 
and  ambitious  State  always  regarded  Athens,  was 
strikingly  manifested  at  this  time,  when,  under  pre- 
text that  the  citadel  of  the  rival  city,  which  was  now 
only  a heap  of  ruins,  might  afford  a dangerous  shelter 


60  Walls  of  the  Acropolis. 

for  the  enemy,  in  case  of  another  invasion,  and  become 
a stronghold  from  which  the  Persian  forces  might  sally 
forth  for  the  conquest  of  Grreece,  it  was  secretly  re- 
solved to  prevent  the  Athenians  from  rebuilding  their 
ruined  walls.  Themistocles  penetrated  this  base  and 
wicked  conspiracy  against  the  liberty  and  indepen- 
dence of  his  country.  He  was  ambassador  to  Sparta, 
and  warned  his  country  of  the  design  of  their  jealous 
rival,  at  the  same  time  urging  them  to  labor  day  and 
night  in  rebuilding  their  fortress,  whilst  he  with  con- 
summate address  prevented  the  Spartans  from  taking 
any  decisive  measure  till  he  had  upon  various  pre- 
tences gained  time  enough  for  the  completion'  of  the 
new  walls.  lie  then  boldly  reproached  them  with 
their  cowardly  designs,  and  defied  their  power. 

A portion  of  the  wall  which  was  built  under  these 
interesting  circumstances,  remains.  Though  solid  and 
massive,  the  material  . is  heterogeneous,  and  was 
manifestly  taken  from  other  buildings.  Amongst  them 
are  many  frusta  of  fluted  marble  columns,  the  remains, 
no  doubt,  .of  those  superb  temples  which  had  been  de- 
molished by  the  barbarian  enemy.  These  splendid 
fragments  are  apparently,  for  they  are  at  a great  height 
above  the  spectators,  not  less  than  four  feet  in  diame- 
ter. One  account  says  that  Themistocles  caused  these 
fragments  of  the  temples  of  the  gods  to  be  built  into 
the  wall,  in  order  to  inspire  posterity  with  a lasting 
hatred  against  their  sacrilegious  invaders.  The  former 
seems  to  be  the  true  history  of  this  interesting  section 
of  the  Acropolis. 

Considerable  portions  of  the  present  wall  are  ascribed 


Walls  of  the  A c ko p o l i s . 61 

to  Cimon.  Finally,  the  Venetians  and  the  Turks,  and 
the  modern  Grreeks,  have  each  constructed  a part, — 
exhibiting,  as  these  successive  masters  of  Greece  do, 
whenever  their  works  are  seen  in  juxta-position,  a 
lamentable  proof  of  the  progress  in  degradation  and 
decline  of  the  arts  from  the  days  of  Themistocles  to 
the  present  time.  The  havoc  made  of  the  splendid 
structures  of  the  Acropolis  by  successive  wars — the 
shells  and  fragments  of  shells  which  are  dug  up  by  the 
excavations,  and  left  in  all  parts  of  this  fortress, — are 
affecting  proofs  of  the  bloody  vicissitudes  of  which  this 
interesting  spot  has  long  been  the  theatre.* 


* During  the  past  year,  most  interesting  excavations  have  been 
made  at  the  Acropolis  by  M.  Beiile,  member  of  the  School  of  Athens, 
at  the  expense  of  the  French  Government.  An  enormous  breach 
•was  made  in  a "wall  built  by  the  Turks,  -which  hid  the  Propyla). 
The  earth  which  covered  the  bastions  was  also  removed,  and  now, 
instead  of  a low  door  badly  built,  and  placed  in  the  side  walls,  a 
majestic  entrance  to  the  Acropolis  is  revealed,  fronting  on  the  Pirajus 
and  Salamis.  The  newly-discovered  wall  is  of  white  marble,  deco- 
rated with  friezes  and  cornices,  and  complete,  although  the  materials 
are  defaced  by  time.  Two  towers  defend  the  entrance,  at  the  right 
and  at  the  left ; and  in  the  middle  is  a Doric  gateway,  corresponding 
with  the  grand  gateway  of  the  Propylae.  It  is  from  these  that  one 
can  behold  the  grand  plan  of  the  monument  of  Mnesicles.  The  im- 
mense stair-case,  which  ascends  to  the  summit  of  the  Acropolis,  and 
of  which  the  last  steps  have  been  discovered,  is  seventy  feet  in 
height.  The  king  of  Greece  has  expressed  the  most  lively  satisfac- 
tion at  the  brilliant  results  of  these  efforts  to  reveal  the  glory  of  the 
ancient  citadel  of  Athens.  Before  leaving  Athens,  M.  Beul6  had 
placed  near  the  gate  of  the  Acropolis  a large  slab  of  marble,  on 
which  is  engraved  a Greek  inscription,  of  which  the  following  is  a 
translation: — “France  has  discovered  the  gate  of  the  Acropolis,  the 
walls,  the  tower,  and  the  stair-case.  1853.  Beul^.” 


62  GrottoofPan. 

✓ 

The  temple  of  the  Eumenides  is  rather  a work  of 
nature  than  of  art,  though  of  great  interest  to  the 
curious  and  intelligent  traveller.  It  is  under  the 
south-eastern  angle  of  the  Areopagus.  A fissure  has  , 
been  made  in  the  lofty  rock,  apparently  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature.  An  immense  mass  is  severed  from 
the  mount,  from  which  it  is  removed  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  at  the  base,  while  at  the  summit  the  distance  is 
much  less.  This  deep  and  gloomy  chasm,  sheltered 
by  the  overhanging  rock,  was  the  temple  of  the  Eu-  \ 

menides.  There  is  a fountain  in  the  most  interior  part  ^ 

of  this  cavern,  dry,  it  is  said,  in  summer,  but  full,  j 

when  I saw  it,  of  a blackish,  nearly  stagnant  water.  I 

There  are  some  niches  in  the  rock,  designed,  no  doubt,  | 

for  statues  or  votive  offerings.  It  seems  highly  proba-  | 

ble  that  this  cavern,  or  temple,  is  nearly  the  same  now  \ 

as  it  was  when  seen  by  the  ancient  writers ; and  cer-  \ 

tainly  no  architectural  erection  could  have  been  better  ■ 

adapted  to  the  rites  of  a gloomy  and  terrible  supersti- 
tion. It  is  immediately  below  that  part  of  the  Areop- 
agus which  was  occupied  by  that  judicial  assembly. 

The  Grotto  of  Pan  is  also  a natural  cavern  in  the 
north  side  of  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis.  Here,  too, 
are  several  niches  cut  out  of  the  living  rock.  In  the  > 
eastern  side  of  the  Pnyx  there  are  some  chambers 
four  or  five  yards  long,  by  half  that  width  and  height. 

These  are  excavated  from  the  rock,  and  are  closed 
with  doors.  I know  not  upon  what  authority  they  are  r. 
called  the  prisons  of  Socrates.  It  is  currently  said,  f 
that  the  philosopher  was  confined  there  by  his  capri-  . 
cious  and  ungrateful  country.  These  cells  would  cer-  ; 


Churches  in  Athens.  63 

tainly  be  very  secure,  and  not  ill  adapted  otherwise  to 
the  purposes  of  a prison. 

I have  here  enumerated  all  the  antiquities  of  Athens, 
with  the  exception  of  a multitude  of  interesting  frag- 
ments and  inscriptions,  to  be  seen  in  several  collections, 
or  in  the  walls  of  modern  buildings,  or  finally  in  vari- 
ous localities,  where  they  have  been  found  in  excava- 
tions for  foundations  or  for  building  materials.  Almost 
every  house,  however  mean,  has  in  its  wall  some  frag- 
ment of  marble,  often  exquisitely  chiselled,  and  evi- 
dently a part  of  some  ancient  structure.  One  sees 
capitals,  and  fragments  of  beautiful  pillars,  lying  half 
buried  beneath  heaps  of  rubbish,  or  built  into  the 
stair-cases  or  walls  of  modern  houses,  which  have 
themselves  become  ruins  by  the  violence  of  war,  or  the 
action  of  the  elements  upon  their  frail  structures. 

Nearly  all  the  churches  contain  columns  and  other 
remains  of  ancient  edifices.  These  precious  relics  of 
better  days  are  arranged  with  an  utter  disregard  to  fit- 
ness and  symmetry,  which  sufficiently  shows  that  they 
are  not  indebted  for  their  present  situation  in  holy 
places  to  any  lurking  remains  of  taste  for  the  arts, 
though  a certain  blind  reverence  for  antiquity  may 
have  exerted  some  influence  on  the  architects  of  these 
grotesque  buildings.  There  are,  it  is  said,  three  hun- 
dred churches  in  Athens.  Not  one  has  the  slightest 
architectural  pretensions.  Most  of  them  are  without 
roofs, — many  never  had  any,  but  are  mere  enclosures 
of  loose  stones  with  a kind  of  rude  altar  consecrated  to 
the  honor  of  some  saint.  Twelve  or  fifteen  churches 


64 


The  Long  Walls. 


would  oe  an  ample  supply  for  the  population  rif 
Athens. 

There  is,  however,  no  reference  to  utility  in  these 
constructions.  It  is  deemed  an  act  of  piety  to  build  a 
church  or  chapel.  This  is  sometimes  prescribed  as  a 
penance.  They  are  often  built  upon  the  summits  of 
hills  and  mountains,  remote  from  the  population  and 
nearly  inaccessible.  Hundreds  of  these  commonly 
wretched  structures  are  seen  in  a journey  through 
Greece,  where  public  service  is  never  celebrated,  or 
at  least  only  upon  the  fete-day  of  the  saint  to  whom 
they  are  devoted.  I was  informed  that  the  priests 
often  direct  persons,  for  particular  delinquencies,  to 
procure  a certain  number  of  masses,  by  way  of  expia- 
tion, to  be  performed  in  these  solitary  fanes.  These 
chapels  abound  where  the  ruins  of  ancient  edifices  af- 
ford ab-undance  of  materials,  without  any  other  labor 
than  that  of  piling  them  up  in  some  rude  way.  At 
Lewctra,  and  some  other  places,  nearly  all  the  old 
materials  have  been  in  this  way  consecrated,  though 
nothing  appears  but  walls  laid  up  in  the  clumsiest  man- 
ner, having  at  one  end  of  the  enclosure  two  upright 
stones,  often  the  fragments  of  pillars,  surmounted  by 
a slab  of  marble,  by  way  of  an  altar.  The  peasants 
cross  themselves  as  they  pass,  and  as  to  the  rest,  sheep 
and  goats  enjoy  free  ingress  and  egress. 

Of  the  celebrated  Long  W alls,  sixty  feet  in  height, 
connecting  Athens  with  the  sea,  there  are  inconsider- 
able remains  near  the  PiraBus.  They  consist  of  large 
blocks  of  square  stone,  partly  in  their  original  positions 
and  partly  removed.  These  stupendous  monuments 


The  Long  Walls. 


65 


of  the  enterprise  and  wealth  of  the  Athenians  seem  to 
have  been  of  the  most  solid  construction,  and  we 
should  be  surprised  at  their  disappearance  but  for  the 
great  facility  afforded  for  removing  the  materials  by 
the  proximity  of  the  sea. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


MODERN  ATHENS. 

By  a census  which  was  completed  just  before  I ar- 
rived in  Athens,  its  population  was  found  to  be  seven- 
teen thousand.  A number  of  these,  perhaps  a ma- 
jority, are  foreigners, — that  is,  not  natives  of  the  king- 
dom, but  Greeks  from  Turkey  and  Asia  Minor,  and  a 
good  many  Europeans.  A large  part  of  the  scanty 
capital  which  is  employed  in  building  and  trade,  was 
brought  in  by  these  foreigners.  The  city  has  probably 
a larger  population  at  present  than  at  any  period  since 
the  Turkish  domination  commenced.  It  has  little  reg- 
ularity, convenience,  or  elegance  in  its  plan,  though  in 
these  respects  it  seems,  judging  from  the  ruins  that  re- 
main, not  to  be  inferior  to  the  town  which  was  destroy- 
ed in  the  late  war.  It  is  even  said  that  ancient  Athens, 
with  all  its  splendor  and  wealth,  was  no  better  in  this 
respect,  the  houses  of  private  individuals  being  mean 
and  the  streets  narrow  and  irregular.  Those  of  the 
present  city  are  excessively  contracted,  being  hardly 
six  or  eight  feet  wide.  They  arc  not  paved,’  and  are 
extremely  filthy.  Still,  there  are  several  thoroughfares 
of  better  dimensions.  More  time  will  doubtless  pro- 


Improvement  in  Athens. 


67 


(luce  furtlier  improvements.  Pavements  will  be  made 
and  rubbish  removed. 

Nine  years  since,  there  was  not  one  habitable  house 
in  Athens.  All  had  fallen  a sacrifice  to  the  violence 
of  war.  The  people  returned  with  the  return  of  peace, 
poor  and  unsheltered,  and  it  was  out  of  the  question 
to  impose  upon  them  an  obligation  to  widen  the  streets 
and  build  eligible  houses.  That  necessity  which  ac- 
knowledges no  law  pressed  upon  them  with  a severity 
hardly  ever  known.  Beside,  they  were  quite  unaccus- 
tomed to  the  style  of  building  which  pervades  in  more 
wealthy  and  civilized  countries.  I apprehend  the  pres- 
ent town  is  more  elegantly  built  than  anything  even  in 
Greece,  since  the  fall  of  the  Byzantine  empire.  I 
thought  Athens  a very  poor  and  unsightly  collection 
of  shabby  habitations,  but  after  I had  made  the  tour 
of  Greece  it  had  the  aspect  of  a well-built  town.  What 
is  most  to  be  regretted  is,  that  the  most  populous  part 
of  the  town  covers  a portion  of  the  ancient  city,  which 
has  never  been  excavated.  It  stands  upon  a bed  of 
accumulated  ruins  from  ten  to  fifteen  or  twenty  feet 
thick,  which  is  no  doubt  a rich  mine  of  antiquities, 
which  must  forever  be  lost  to  the  world,  unless  some 
terrible  revolution  shall  again  overspread  this  fat?d 
land  with  new  desolation. 

The  government  has  been  much  blamed  for  making 
Athens  its  capital,  chiefly  because  it  has  rendered  im- 
possible those  excavations  which  could  hardly  fail  to 
enrich  the  world  with  many  highly  valuable  discov- 
eries. Some  think  that  Nauplia,  others  that  Corinth, 
Patras,  or  the  Piraeus,  should  havx  had  tbe  prcfe/ymce. 


68 


Prosperity  of  Athens. 


as  better  suited  to  commerce,  and  as  free  from  tho 
strong  objection  I have  just  mentioned.  Athens  should 
have  been  left  in  its  venerable  ruins — a place  of  pil- 
grimage for  the  antiquary  and  the  scholar.  I do  not 
think  so  unfavorably  of  the  choice  made  by  the  gov- 
ernment. I know  not  how  far  a government  is  at  lib- 
erty to  allow  sentiment  and  classical  enthusiasm  to  in- 
fluence the  decision  of  economical  questions.  The 
ground  which  it  would  have  been  most  desirable  to  re- 
serve for  excavations  is  precisely  that  upon  which  the 
town  destroyed  by  the  war  was  built.  Of  course,  it 
was  private  property  which  the  government  was  not 
able  to  buy,  and  could  not  interfere  with  on  other 
terms.  The  people  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, returned  to  their  former  homes,  with  ajffection  for 
the  sacred  spot,  hallowed  by  its  having  been  the  home 
of  their  fathers  for  thousands  of  years,  and  but  the 
more  deaiito  them  for  its  calamities.  Would  it  have 
been  wise  in  the  government  to  disregard  this  natural 
attachment,  and  to  renew  the  attempt  made  two  thou- 
sand years  ago,  to  transplant  the  Athenians  and  lay 
the  foundations  of  a new  city  ? Corinth  and  Nauplia 
are  decidedly  unhealthy,  whilst  Athens  is  famed  for 
the  salubrity  of  its  situation. 

The  rapid  growth  of  this  city  I consider  as  sanction- 
ing the  choice  made  by  the  government.  Multitudes 
have  no  doubt  been  attracted  by  its  name  and  ancient 
renown,  and  the  affluence  of  intelligent  strangers  will 
ensure  a degree  of  wealth  and  a rapid  advance  in  civ- 
ilization and  refinement  much  wanted  by  the  country, 
which  could  not  have  been  realized  in  any  other  locality. 


Parade  of  Business. 


69 


A good  road  has  been  constructed  to  the  Piraeus, 
and  a railway,  which,  as  the  ground  is  very  favorable, 
could  be  made  with  little  expense,  would  go  far  to  re- 
move the  commercial  objection.  No  one  would  ever 
wish  that  Edinburgh  with  its  schools  were  removed 
from  its  present  beautiful  site,  of  which  Athens  strong- 
ly reminded  me,  to  the  more  commodious  trading  po- 
sition of  Leith.  Athens  is  now  the  only  spot  in  Greece 
which  exhibits  any  appearance  of  active  prosperity. 
The  residence  of  the  court  has  much  influence  in  pro- 
ducing this  result,  but  its  lovely,  healthful  situation, 
and  its  classical  wealth  and  association,  I think,  have 
done  much  more,  by  the  strong  inducements  they  hold 
out  to  wealthy  travellers  and  emigrants. 

A stranger,  in  w^alkiug  through  some  of  the  streets 
of  this  renovated  capital,  is  struck  with  the  great  ap- 
pearance of  activity  and  business.  The  number  of 
shops  is  very  great  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the 
town.  Several  of  the  streets  are  much  thronged,  and 
a multitude  of  people  are  seen  engaged  in  mechanical 
employments.  More  careful  observation  and  more 
familiar  acquaintance,  however,  show  that  this  activ- 
ity and  bustle  are  greatly  out  of  all  proportion  to  the 
business  done.  Everything  is  done  in  the  smallest 
way.  There  are  no  large  stores,  and  very  few  con- 
siderable ones.  Business  that  ought  not  to  employ 
more  than  one  or  two  persons,  and  that  might  be  con- 
fined to  a single  shop,  is  subdivided  amongst  a dozen. 
Capitals  are  excessively  small.  Men  being  strangers 
to  each  other  without  mutual  confidence,  combina- 


70 


Coffee-Houses. 

tions  in  trade  are  impossible.  Hence  a ranltitude  of 
small  traders  with  little  business  upon  the  whole. 

There  is  much  of  the  parade  and  ostentation  of  busi- 
ness, with  only  the  most  trivial  results.  Two  or  three 
Pearl  street  merchants  sell  more  than  the  whole  of  the 
craft  in  Athens.  The  stores  and  shops  are  all  open  in 
front,  the  whole  being  formed  of  moveable  planks,  and 
closed  only  at  night.  The  goods  of  the  merchant,  as 
well  as  the  work  of  the  mechanic,  are  all  exposed  to 
view.  The  number  of  shoemakers  and  tailors  is  so 
large,  that  I presume  they  not  only  supply  the  demand 
of  the  town,  but  of  the  country  where  mechanics  are 
scarce.  Bakers  are  also  numerous,  but  one  sees  very 
little  manufactures  of  any  sort  beyond  these  three 
classes,  who  labor  to  supply  immediate  wants.  Paper,' 
leather,  and  other  articles,  the  first  with  which  a civil- 
ized and  industrious  country  supplies  itself,  are  im- 
ported. 

I was  struck  with  the  number  of  coffee-houses  and 
drinking  and  smoking  establishments  in  this  city.  I 
know  not  how  many  there  may  be  in  the  city,  but  I 
am  sure  that  I have  seen  several  hundreds  of  persons 
in  these  places  of  idle  resort,  in  a walk  of  ten  minutes 
after  dark.  They  are  seated  around  low  tables,  with  a 
cup  of  coffee  or  a glass  of  spirits  or  wine  before  them, 
and  the  largest  portion  of  them  engaged  in  playing 
cards.  They  seemed  to  play  for  money — small  sums, 
no  doubt,  as  the  coin  upon  the  table  was  always  cop- 
per. I could  but  fear  that  a very  low  state  of  morals 
prevailed.  The  common  people  are  loud  and  quarrel- 
some. Their  tones  are  angry  and  their  gesticulations 


Saints’  Days. 


71 


violent  and  alarming,  but  I never  saw  them  strike, 
though  I often  expected  serious  results.  In  this  they 
reminded  me  of  the  French  populace,  who  storm  and 
beat  the  air  furiously,  but  always  keep  the  fear  of  the 
police  before  their  eyes.  The  industry  of  the  country 
is  greatly  injured  by  the  holy  days  of  the  church, 
which  are,  I beheve,  more  numerous  than  they  are 
amongst  the  Catholics.  They  agree,  too,  with  the 
Catholics  in  paying  more  respect  to  their  saints’  days 
than  to  the  Sabbath.  The  shops  are  open,  and  busi- 
ness proceeds  as  usual  after  the  morning  service  in  the 
churches,  whilst  upon  a fete  day  a Grreek  cannot  be 
induced  to  work.  All  the  circumstances  of  intemper- 
ance which  have  fallen  under  my  observation,  have 
occurred  on  such  occasions.  I arrived  in  Athens  the 
night  before  the  commencement  of  Lent,  when, 
during  a period  of  forty  days,  the  Greeks  are  prohib- 
ited the  use  of  animal  food — not  of  flesh  merely,  as 
the  Catholics  are,  but  also  of  butter,  cheese,  and  eggs. 
The  streets  were  thronged  by  riotous  Bacchanalians, 
who  were  indemnifying  themselves  in  advance  for  the 
privations  of  this  holy  season.  Their  songs  and  out- 
cries resounded  from  street  to  street,  and,  though  much 
fatigued,  I was  quite  unable  to  sleep  during  the  whole 
night. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


THE  GREEK  CHURCH. 

I MADE  many  inquiries  with  regard  to  the  Greek 
church  and  its  influence  over  the  people.  The  clergy 
derive  their  support  from  marriage,  christening,  burial, 
and  other  fees,  and  from  the  contributions  of  the  peo- 
ple when  these  fees  prove  inadequate  to  their  mainten- 
ance. Their  whole  income,  from  whatever  source 
derived,  is  very  inconsiderable.  The  management  of 
ecclesiastical  matters  belongs  chiefly  to  a synod  com- 
posed of  the  principal  clergy.  The  bishops,  who  be- 
long to  this  body,  have  a stipend  from  the  State. 
Others,  as  well  as  the  inferior  priesthood,  receive  no- 
thing from  the  government,  though  this  church  is  the 
established  one.  All  religions  are  tolerated  by  the 
fundamental  laws.  The  Greek  clergy  are  said  to  pos- 
sess little  influence  over  the  people,  though  there  is  a 
bigoted  attachment  to  the  church.  The  priesthood  is 
chiefly  of  the  lower  orders,  and  badly  educated.  I 
heard  anecdotes  of  them  that  went  to  show  the  preva- 
lence of  the  most  gross  and  shameful  ignorance. 

This  sufficiently  accounts  for  their  want  of  influence. 
The  people  of  all  ranks,  it  is  said,  regard  them  in  the 
discharge  of  their  sacred  functions  at  the  altar,  with 


The  Greek  Church. 


73 


the  highest  veneration,  but  personally  and  in  the  in- 
tercourse of  life,  they  enjoy  little  consideration.  They 
are  not  often  seen  in  conversation  with  gentlemen  in 
public  places,  but  are  manifestly  left  to  associate  with 
the  lowest  of  the  people.  This  one  observes  of  the 
Catholic  clergy  in  several  countries  in  ^Europe  devoted 
to  that  faith.  The  Catholic  clergy,  however,  differ 
from  the  Greek  in  maintaining  everywhere  a decided 
influence  over  their  flocks.  It  is  not  at  the  altai 
only  that  their  power  is  felt.  It  is  pre-eminent  in 
political  and  other  questions,  and  those  who  seek  to 
act  upon  public  opinion,  are  studious  to  secure  the  co- 
operation of  this  powerful  body.  In  Greece,  I could 
not  perceive  that  the  influence  of  the  clergy  was  taken 
into  the  account  in  political  questions.  The  liberals 
speak  of  it  as  insignificant,  though,  in  general,  un- 
friendly to  their  designs.  Perhaps  they  undervalue  it, 
and  are  too  little  solicitous  to  secure  the  aid  of  a nu- 
merous body  of  men,  who,  it  seems  to  me,  must  always 
possess  considerable  weight  in  all  questions  in  which 
they  please  to  enlist,  so  long  as  they  are  regarded  by 
the  multitude  as  true  ministers  of  Christ.  The  king 
has  not,  it  seems,  been  inattentive  to  the  clergy,  whose 
favor  he  has,  to  a considerable  extent,  secured. 

The  doctrines  of  the  Greek  church  find  much  more 
favor  in  the  eyes  of  the  Protestants  than  do  the  dog- 
mas of  the  Catholics.  No  opposition  has  hitherto  been 
raised  in  Greece  against  the  circulation  of  the  Scripr 
tures,  though  the  reading  of  them  is  not  urged  as  a 
duty ; nor  is  it  deemed  very  essential  to  those  who  en- 
joy the  privilege  of  attending  on  public  worship,  and^ 

4 


74 


The  Greek  Clergy. 


\ 

of  learning  their  Christian  duty  from  the  mouth  of  the 
priesthood.  From  all  I could  learn,  these  instructions 
are  at  best  of  doubtful  tendency.  A gentleman  who  is 
well  acquainted  with  this  subject,  and  who  takes  a 
lively  interest  in  all  that  is  connected  with  the  spread 
of  piety,  assured  me  that  the  preaching  of  the  Greek 
clergy  is  little  calculated  to  produce  high  moral  results. 
It  is  almost  wholly  employed  in  the  inculcation  of  the 
mere  ceremonial  of  the  church.  It  dwells  upon  the 
enormity  of  indulging  in  the  use  of  flesh  or  eggs  dur- 
ing the  Fasts,  when  they  are  prohibited, — upon  the 
efficacy  of  confession  or  of  penance, — and  a tedious 
et  cetera^ — wffiich,  to  Protestants  at  least,  must  appear 
pitiful  trifles.  The  clerical  costume  is  a black  cap  and 
gown.  The  beard  is  worn  long.  As  far  as  I had 
opportunity  to  observe,  the  priests  are  men  pf  vulgar 
manners, — many  of  them  are  filthy  in  their  dress  and 
persons,  and  would  be  taken  for  men  without  much 
intelligence  or  education. 

It  would  not  be  very  hazardous  to  infer,  from  what 
I have  said  of  the  character  of  the  teachers  of  religion, 
and  of  the  dogmas  upon  which  they  lay  the  greatest 
stress,  that  public  morals  are  deficient  in  elevation  and 
purity.  I,  however,  saw  nothing  to  induce  me  to  be- 
lieve that  the  Greeks  are  essentially  worse  than  their 
western  neighbors.  From  certain  vices,  which  flourish 
only  in  connection  with  luxury  and  great  wealth,  they 
are,  of  course,  nearly  exempt.  Their  females  lead 
quiet  and  retired,  and  may  we  not  hope  exemplary 
lives  ? 

The  only  theatre  in  Greece  is  still  in  an  unfinished 


Public  Morals. 


75 


state.  Thus  far,  therefore,  the  country  has  been  ex- 
empted from  a most  potent  corrupting  influence.  The 
Greeks  are  commonly  charged  with  dishonesty  in  their 
deahngs,  and  with  being,  almost  universally,  liars.  I 
am  sorry  to  say  that  I saw  nothing  which  induced  me 
to  question  the  correctness  of  this  statement ; and  I 
much  fear  that  this  people  are  more  deplorably  deficient 
in  integrity  and-  veracity  than  any  of  the  nations  of 
western  Europe.  These  are  vices  that  are  nurtured  by 
oppression  and  servitude.  The  Greeks  have  been 
trained  in  this  school  for  many  generations.  An  age 
of  liberty,  if  Providence  shall  deign  to  admit  them  to 
such  a privilege,  or  even  of  a regular  administration  of 
tyranny, — of  which  they  have  some  tolerable  prospect, 
— may  work  a great  change  for  the  better  in  this 
respect.  I saw  more  instances  of  drunkenness  in 
Greece  than  I saw  in  France  and  Italy  during  a much 
longer  residence.  Compared  with  Americans,  how- 
ever, they  must  not  be  called  intemperate.  This  is  a 
vice  that  does  not  legitima,tely  belong  to  their  soft  and 
genial  climate.  Bobberies  are  still  very  common,  and 
seem  hardly  to  be  regarded  as  crimes  here.  A Greek 
speaks  of  having  followed  this  profession  with  perfect 
unconcern,  and  he  finds  employment  as  a laborer  or  a 
servant  as  readily  as  if  he  had  been  bred  to  peaceful 
avocations.  This  is  one  of  "the  fruits  of  civil  wars, 
which  so  long  desolated  the  country.  A generation 
must  pass  away  before  rapine  and  bloodshed  will  be 
viewed  ^vith  merited  detestation  and  horror. 

Education  receives  the  encouragement  of  the  gov- 
ernment, and  the  people  manifest  great  eagerness  to 


76 


Education. 


secure  to  their  children  the  benefit  of  schools.  The 
University  of  Otho,  at  Athens,  has  two  hundred  stu- 
dents in  the  several  departments  of  study.  Twenty- 
seven  professors  give  lectures  in  the  modern  Greek 
language.  A library  of  considerable  extent  has  been 
secured,  chiefly  by  donations  from  Europe ; and  col- 
lections in  natural  history  are  commenced.  Six  or 
seven  of  these  professors  are  Germans — the  rest  are 
Greeks,  who  have  had  a European,  mostly  an  Italian 
education.  To  diminish  the  expenses  of  the  establish- 
ment, many  of  the  professors  hold  other  ofiices  under 
the  Government.  Students  are  here  from  Macedonia,  ^ 
Asia  Minor,  and  Constantinople.  4 

More  than,  two  hundred  attend  the  lectures,  which  f 
are  in  modern  Greek.  I have  heard  several  anecdotes  ^ 

of  the  sacrifices  and  poverty  of  the  students,  which  i 

indicate  a degree  of  enterprise  and  stubborn  pur- 
pose that  would  do  honor  to  New-England,  As  yet, 
no  suitable  building  has  been  provided  to  accom- 
modate the  University.  The  foundations  of  such  an 
edifice  have  been  laid,  and  an  appeal  made  to  the 
friends  of  Greece  in  Europe  and  the  United  States,  for 
the  means  of  completing  it.  Very  liberal  subscriptions 
have  been  obtained  in  Greece  for  the  same  purpose. 

The  funds  of  the  State  are  too  much  embarrassed  to 
accomplish  this  important  object.  The  University 
has  a department  for  the  instruction  of  teachers. 

There  are  three  hundred  schools,  of  various  grades, 
in  different  parts  of  Greece, — many,  perhaps  most  of 
them,  are  on  the  Lancastrian  plan.  The  school  in  J 

Patras  has  three  hundred  scholars,  and  one  in  Argos  { 

t 


t 


Schools. 


77 


has  about  that  number.  Every  town  and  village  is 
required  to  have  a school.  The  Government  aids  in 
their  support  only  when  there  exists  an  inability  on 
the  part  of  the  people  to  provide  for  the  necessary  ex- 
pense. The  plan,  though  designed  to  be  uniformly 
adopted,  is,  as  yet,  but  partially  carried  out,  as  is  ob- 
vious from  the'  number  of  schools, — ^three  hundred,  in 
a population  of  eight  hundred  thousand,  being  a very 
inadequate  supply. 

A number  of  schools  are  sustained  by  contributions 
from  abroad.  That  of  the  Kev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hill,  in 
Athens,  is  the  most  important.  It  has  six  hundred  pu- 
pils of  all  ages,  and  of  both  sexes.  Mrs.  Hill  has  three 
or  four  assistants  besides  Greeks.  She  has  pupils  from 
Asia  Minor  and  Constantinople.  The  school  establish- 
ed by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Kobertson  in  Syra,  is  now  conducted 
by  a missionary  in  the  employment  of  the  Church  of 
England,  and  is  said  to  be  flourishing.  Finally,  the 
missionaries  of  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners 
for  Foreign  Missions  have  a prosperous  school  in  Sparta 
— one  of  the  most  savage  parts  of  Greece,  where  such 
an  enterprise  falls  strictly  within  the  proper  sphere  and 
character  of  missionary  work.  Many  other  schools 
are  supported  by  the  Greeks  themselves,  by  voluntary 
contributions. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  interests  of  education  are  high- 
ly appreciated,  and  have  made  a gratifying  progress.* 

* There  are  in  Greece  at  this  time  (1854)  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  primary  schools  for  boys,  and  forty-nine  for  girls,  attended,  the 
former  by  thirty-three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty-four  boys, 
and  the  latter  by  six  thousand  three  hundred  and  twenty-three 


78 


Agencies  for  Good. 


■ It  is  a circumstance  of  no  small  moment  that  the  New 
Testament  is  the  most  common  book  in  all  the  schools, 
native  and  foreign.  The  Avant  of  suitable  books  was  a 
serious  obstacle  to  the  success  of  the  first  attempt  in 
behalf  of  education.  The  liberality  of  individuals,  but 
chiefiy  of  the  Bible  Societies  of  England  and  America, 
has  supplied  this  want  in  the  best  possible  manner. 
The  children  of  Greece  are  imbibing  the  pure  truths 
of  the  gospel  from  the  uncorrupt  and  living  fountain. 
The  blessing  of  God  may  make  this  the  means  of  pu- 
rifying the  Church,  and  of  introducing  a pure  and  sav- 
ing Christianity.  The  American  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions  has  four  missionaries  here,  laboring  with  a 
zeal  and  fidelity  for  which  the  agents  of  that  society 
are  everywhere  proverbial.  Two  are  stationed  at 
Athens,  whose  chief  business  is  the 'publication  and 
distribution,  by  sale  and  donation,  of  Bibles  and  relig- 
ious books.  From  this  source  the  schools  of  Greece 
receive  a large  supply  of  valuable  publications.  This 
is,  perhaps,  the  most  hopeful  of  the  influences  that  are 
now  active  for  the  regeneration  of  Greece.  Dr.  King, 
the  pious  and  veteran  missionary,  also  preaches  to  a 

girls.  There  are  eighty-six  secondary  ancient  Greek  schools,  with  one 
hundred  and  fifty-eight  teachers,  and  four  thousand  three  hundred 
and  eighty-three  pupils  ; seven  gymnasiums  or  superior  schools,  with 
forty  professors,  and  one  thousand  and  seventy-seven  pupils ; and  a 
university,  with  thirty-nine  professors,  and  five  hundred  and  ninety 
students.  Besides  these,  there  is  a Normal  school  for  the  formation 
of  schoolmasters,  an  ecclesiastical  seminary,  besides  the  faculty  of 
theology,  a polytechnic  school,  a school  of  agriculture,  and  other 
establishments  necessary  for  instruction,  such  as  the  National  Li- 
brary, the  Botanic  Garden,  the  Astronomical  Observatory,  cud  the 
museums.  The  State  expends  yearly  for  public  instructiQB,  $701,673. 


Agencies  for  Good. 


79 


small  Greek  congregation.  His  excellent  colleague, 
the  Kev.  Mr.  Benjamin,  is  wholly  employed  in  pro- 
ducing good  books.  No  particular  encouragement  has 
as  yet  attended  the  preaching  of  the  gospel  to  this  peo- 
ple. Still,  as  the  appointed  and  honored  means  estab- 
lished by  Christ,  it  is  entitled  always  to  the  first  place 
amongst  the  agencies  to  be  employed  for  the  salvation 
of  the  heathen  as  well  as  Christian  world.'  As  yet,  the 
circulation  of  books,  including  the  Holy  Scriptures, 
must  be  regarded  only  in  the  character  of  an  experi- 
ment— an  experiment  indeed  of  high  and  sacred  inter- 
est— yet  but  an  experiment,  which  God  may  honor  by 
imparting  an  efficiency  commensurate  with  the  vast  ex- 
tent to  which  it  has  been  adopted  by  His  peojDle ; — or 
he  may  dishonor  and  reject  it,  to  manifest  more  fully 
the  superior  dignity  and  importance  of  the  living  min- 
istry, which  Christ  has  himself  ordained.  For  this,  the 
Church,  nothing  slothful  in  the  great  work  which  it 
has  prayerfully  begun,  should  yet  be  prepared. 

I am  not  aware  of  the  mode  of  action  adopted  by 
the  missionary  from  the  Baptist  Board  in  the  United 
States,  stationed  in  Patras.  I did  not  see  him  when  in 
that  cit}^,  not  having  been  informed  of  his  residence 
till  at  a subsequent  period. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

OTH  O . 

The  success  of  the  means  used  for  the  moral  eleva- 
tion of  thi“=i  kingdom,  is  so  dependent  upon  the  gov- 
ernment of  ui  .e  country,  as  to  make  the  unpromising 
tendencies  of  King  Otho’s  rule  a subject  of  lively  re- 
gret to  those,  who  usually  abstain  from  all  participation 
in  politics.  There  is  in  Greece  a government  and  a lib- 
eral party, — the  latter  is  almost  universally  favorable 
to  the  efforts  made  by  American  and  English  Chris- 
tians to  enlighten  the  people ; the  former  is  believed  to 
be  decidedly  hostile  to  all  such  foreign  interference. 

The  king,  though  absolute,  is  not  sufficiently  firm  in 
his  position  to  manifest  active  or  open  enmity.  Per- 
haps he  is  unjustly  suspected,  and  may  yet  prove  a 
friend  to  measures,  connected  certainly  with  the  best 
interests  of  his  people. 

It- is  well  known  that  Otho  was  selected,  when  yet  a 
boy,  to  be  king  of  Greece,  ostensibly  that  he  might 
receive  an  education  suited  to  his  future  position.  A 
regency  administered  the  government  during  his  mi- 
nority. Its  blunders  were  gross — its  oppressive  meas 
ures  bore  hard  upon  the  prosperity  as  well  as  the 


Otiio. 


81 


spirit  of  Greece.  Still  there  was  hope  in  the  early  as- 
sumption of  the  reins  of  government  by  the  king.  The 
people  had  been  taught  to  expect  the  promulgation  of 
a liberal  constitution,  and  the  establishment  of  a repre- 
sentative body  by  which  their  wishes  might  be  heard 
and  their  wrongs  redressed. 

In  the  meantime,  the  young  Otho,  whose  crown  was 
held  in  abeyance  till  he  should  learn  how  to  rule, 
drank  in  the  principles  of  absolutism.  His  accession 
to  power  brought  to  the  expectant  Greeks  no  guaran- 
ties for  liberty,  nor  even  for  security.  They  have 
clamored  for  representation  to  the  present  moment, 
but  without  success,  and  with  some  faltering  of  hope. 
They  have  succeeded  in  getting  rid  of  the  largest 
part  of  the  mercenary  Bavarian  army,  which  the  king, 
with  an  incredible  fatuity,  had  brought  for  the  security 
of  his  throne  against  the  brave  people,  who  had  invit- 
ed him  to  rule  over  them.  But  one  Bavarian  minister 
is  left,  though  many  are  still  engaged  in  the  subordi- 
nate offices.  These  sacrifices  have  been  made  to  allay 
the  popular  feeling,  which  was  greatly  excited  by  a 
policy  that  regarded  the  Greeks,  who  had  just  shaken 
off  the  Turkish  yoke  by  prodigies  of  valor  and  incred- 
ible sacrifices,  as  a conquered  race,  and  sought  to  make 
them  an  appendage  to  a third-rate  German  State. 

The  army  of  mercenaries  has,  however,  been  replaced 
by  one  of  natives,  ten  thousand  strong,  the  largest,  in 
proportion  to  the  population  which  supports  it,  known 
in  the  civilized  world. 

The  taxes  imposed  under  the  Turkish  rule  have 
been  variously  and  greatly  increased,  whilst  the  annoy- 

4-^ 


82  Oppressive  Taxation. 

ing  and  ruinous  mode  of  collection  remains  unchanged. 
A revenue  of  fourteen  millions  of  Drachmas,  nearly 
two  and  a half  millions  of  dollars,  is  paid  by  eight 
hundred  thousand  people,  the  poorest  perhaps  on  the 
face  of  the  earth,  and  inhabiting  one  of  the  most  sterile 
regions  of  the  globe — a people  without  manufactures, 
without  trade,  and  nearly  without  agriculture.  Two 
millions  only  result  from  duties  levied  on  commerce. 
Twelve  millions  press  upon  the  agriculture  of  the  coun- 
try. The  tax  is  collected  in  kind,  and.  amounts  to  a 
tythe  of  the  products  of  the  land.  The  produce  of  the 
worst  land,  of  which  a large  part  or  the  whole  of  the 
value  has  been  expended  in  the  culture,  pays  in  the 
same  proportion  with  that  of  the  best,  which  has  yield- 
ed the  most  abundant  profits.  The  taxes  are  farmed, 
and  the  purchaser,  who  is  his  own  collector,  has  a dis- 
cretionary power,  which  he  does  not  fail  to  abuse  to 
the  oppression  of  the  poor  peasant. 

The  grain  is  carried,  before  threshing,  to  a public 
floor,  to  prevent  concealment  or  fraud.  The  farmer’s 
tenth  is  then  carried  to  the  market,  if  not  more  than 
six  leagues,  by  the  peasant,  who  has  also  to  carry  home 
his  own  part  of  the  wheat — his  straw  and  chaff.  Count 
also  the  loss  in  carrying  wheat  in  the  bundle  on  the 
backs  of  mules,  for  there  are  no  roads,  and  some  esti- 
mate may  be  formed  of  the  oppression  of  this  most 
barbarous  and  wicked  system.  It  is  from  a treasure 
thus  obtained,  that  the  King  takes  a hundred  and 
twenty  millions  of  drachmas  for  his  own  expenses,  and 
to  build  a splendid  marble  palace,  expected  to  cost  five 
millions  of  dollars.  Since  his  accession,  a tolerable 


Despotic  Government.  83 

/ 

road  of  about  twenty -five  or  thirty  miles  has  been  made. 
Besides  tins,  there  is  none  in  Greece  upon  which  a cart 
can  pass.  There  are  no  carriages  except  in  Athens, 
Nauplia,  and  Argos.  It  was  well  said  to  nie  by  an 
intelligent  Greek  gentleman,  “ The  Bavarians  have 
placed  the  huge  saddle  of  a camel  upon  the  back  of  a 
poor  donkey.”  The  people  bear  a system  so  intolerably 
oppressive,  partly  from  fear  of  foreign  interference 
should  they  resist — ^partly  from  a dread  of  anarchy, 
from  which  they  have  suffered  evils  even  worse  than 
those  of  tyranny — and  partly  from  the  hope  of  melior- 
ation, by  the  final  introduction  of  representation, 
which  they  believe  a press  yet  partially  free,  and  the 
growing  intelligence  of  the  country,  will  finally  ex- 
tort from  the  ruling  power  without  bloodshed. 

In  the  meantime  the  king  uses,  and  will  use  the 
means,  which  are  always  at  hand,  to  fortify  his  power 
and  silence  opposition.  He  has  ofiices  to  bestow ; and 
the  Greeks — the  best  of  them — are  too  poor  to  resist 
such  attacks  upon  their  independence.  The  attractions 
of  Court,  few  and  poverty-stricken  though  they  must 
be — ^have  yet  a seductive  power  over  persons  of  a cer- 
tain class,  and  are  not  without  their  influence  upon 
the  public  mind.  The  progress,  too,  of  time  and 
events,  along  with  .a  growing  despair  of  realizing  the 
bright  anticipations  of  freedom  which  cheered  the 
Greeks  in  the  field  of  battle,  will  produce  its  sedative 
influences, — ^in  some,  a sullen  indifference, — in  others, 
an  oblivious  contentment, — in  all,  a growing  indispo- 
sition to  distrust  a system  of  government  which  has 
the  advantage  of  being  established,  and  which  gives  a 


84 


A Degraded  People. 


sort  of  security  to  person  and  property,  without  being 
utterly  inconsistent'  with  some  degree  of  social  and 
domestic  enjoyment. 

Some  facts  have  come  to  my  knowledge,  which  show 
that  security  for  property  is  at  best  imperfect.  When 
King  Otho  laid  out  the  grounds  preparatory  to  the 
erection  of  his  palace,  he  paid  no  attention  to  private 
property.  Amongst  others,  he  appropriated  the  land 

of  Mr.  F , an  Englishman,  and  that  of  Mr. , a 

citizen  of  the  United  States ; and  this  without  consulting 
them — without  having  made  them  any  compensation, 
though  several  years  have  since  elapsed,  and  this 
act  of  justice  has  been  repeatedly  solicited  at  his 
hands.  Such  an  act  of  lawless  oppression  would  shake 
the  throne  of  the  sternest  despot  in  civilized  Europe. 
In  Greece,  where  first  principles  are  still  to  be  settled, 
it  only  excites  some  complaints. 

It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  king  of  Greece'  has 
a most  difficult  part  to  perform.  It  is  no  easy  thing  to 
adapt  a system  of  laws  and  administration  to  a people, 
degraded  and  demoralized  by  centuries  of  such  oppress- 
ion as  Turkey  has  exercised  over  Greece.  Men,  long 
habituated  to  a government  of  caprice,  violence  and 
injustice,  learn  servility,  disloyalty,  treachery  and 
cunniog ; and  they  should  not  be  expected  to  adopt 
suddenly  the  practice,  or  even  the  semblance  of  the 
opposite  virtues.  Greece  is  essentially  barbarized. 
She  has  not — she  could  not  by  any  possibility  possess 
the  qualifications  which  fit  a people  for  republican  in- 
stitutions. Great,  and,  in  many  instances,  insuperable 
difficulties  have  been  met  with  in  attempting  to  replace 


Liberty  of  the  Press  85 

the  half-feudal,  half-robber  municipal  regulations  which 
prevailed  under  the  Turkish  rule,  by  a system  bor- 
rowed chiefly  from  the  French  code. 

The  press  is  not  legally  free,  but  it  is  so  in  fact. 
The  French  system  is  adopted.  A publisher  must  de- 
posit a large  sum  of  money  to  pay  fines,  if  he  shall 
incur  such  a penalty,  and  a responsible  editor  is  an- 
swerable to  the  tribunals  for  all  that  appears  in  his 
paper.  The  affair  is  managed  thus : a company  having 
raised  the  money  requisite  for  the  deposit,  some  person 
who  will  endure  imprisonment  for  moderate  pay,  com- 
monly an  indigent  student,  is  announced  as  editor. 
The  paper  is  conducted  in  a free  and  fearless  spirit, 
canvassing  public  measures  without  restraint,  only 
avoiding  what  may  be  personally  offensive  to  the  king. 
If  trouble  arises,  the  vicarious  editor  is  ready  to  go  to 
jail,  where  he  can  still  pursue  his  studies,  make  some 
money,  and  fare  better  than  he  does  elsewhere.  It  is 
said  the  office  is  rather  coveted.  An  untrammelled 
press  is  a check  upon  an  arbitrary  government,  and  no 
doubt  the  best  substitute  for  a representative  assembly, 
to  which  I think  it  must  ultimately  lead,  if  its  freedom 
be  not  stifled. 

The  people  have  been  unfit  to  exercise  the  elective 
franchise,  even  in  the  humble  sphere  of  village  ap- 
pointments ; and  the  petty  functionaries,  upon  whom 
they  confer  the  power,  seldom  fail  to  practise  the  les- 
sons of  tyranny,  peculation  and  bribery,  which  they 
learned  from  their  old  masters.  I had  these  facts 
from  a gentleman  of  great  intelligence,  familiar  with 
the  internal  condition  of  Greece,  and  withal  a liberal. 


S6  Policy  of  the  King. 

who  wishes  the  establishment  of  representative  gov- 
ernment. He  deems  it,  however,  as  many  of  the  best 
friends  of  the  nation  do,  an  evil  only  of  less  magni- 
tude than  the  unenlightened  despotism,  which  now 
presses  like  an  incubus  upon  the  country.  Doubtless, 
many  allowances  are  to  be  made  for  the  young  king, 
who  has  to  choose  between  such  evils.  Birth  and  edu- 
cation have  prepared  him  to  lean  towards  absolutism. 
With  all  the  good  intentions  which  his  friends  claim 
for  him,  and  which  even  his  enemies  concede,  it  is 
morally  impossible  that  he  should  possess  the  requisite 
knowledge  of  the  people,  and  of  the  condition  of  the 
country,  to  govern  wisely.  He  has  no  means  of 
becoming  acquainted  with  the  public  wants — no  ex- 
perience which  would  enable  him  to  adapt  the  meas- 
ures of  his  government  to  the  exigencies  of  a people, 
where  everything  is  to  be  created  de  novo^ — ^habits  and 
character,  as  well  as  intentions. 

Compelled  to  dismiss  those  counsellors  upon  whom 
he  naturally  relied,  and  who  did  not  fail  to  demon- 
strate that,  however  hacknied  in  the  state  dogmas  of 
European  absolutism,  they  were  unfit  to  make  laws 
for  Greece,  he  has  selected  others,  who  probably  lack 
his  confidence  no  less  than  that  of  the  nation.  This 
has  thrown  him  upon  his  own  very  scanty  resources. 
He  is  believed  to  originate  all  the  measures  of  govern- 
ment himself,  not  because  he  is  competent  to  legislate, 
but  because  his  ministers  are  even  less  so.  The  odium 
of  unpopular  measures  must  hereafter  rest  upon  the 
sovereign.  He  has  lost  one  advantage  by  the  dismissal 
of  the  Bavarians.  Yet  this  act,  which  was  certainly 


Policy  of  the  King. 


87 


one  of  necessity,  ought  also  to  be  regarded  in  the  more 
favorable  light  of  a sacrifice  to  the  wishes  or  to  the 
prejudices  of  his  people. 

The  favor  extended  by  the  king  to  public  education,' 
is  another  bright  feature  in  his  policy.  In  some  minor 
things,  he  seems  not  disinclined  to  conciliate  the  re- 
gards of  his  subjects.  He  has  adopted  their  national 
costume.  . Though  a Catholic,  and  of  the  most  bigoted 
Catholic  stock  in  Europe,  he  assists  at  the  religious 
ceremonies  of  the  Greek  church  on  certain  occasions. 
In  more  favorable  circumstances,  he  would  probably 
be  neither  worse  nor  better  than  his  father,  and  other 
more  absolute  kings.  He  but  follows  their  example  in 
taxing  the  people  to  the  full  extent  of  their  ability  to 
pay,  in  improving  the  capital  and  neglecting  the  rest 
of  his  kingdom,  and  in  providing  for  the  gratification 
of  his  luxury  and  vanity,  by  the  erection  of  a sumptu- 
ous palace,  such  as  might  have  suited  Louis  XIY.  or 
Catherine  of  Kussia,  together  with  several  other  edifices 
of  great  utility,  but  beyond  the  resources  of  the 
country. 


f 


CHAPTER  X. 


NATIONAL  EXPENSES. 

Of  all  the  improvements  desirable  and  possible  in 
the  system  of  government  which  now  presses  upon 
this  unhappy  country,  the  diminution  of  the  taxes 
seems  to  me  the  most  indispensable.  How  it  can  be 
effected  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture.  The  ]3ublic  debt 
is  considerable,  and  neither  principal  nor  interest  is 
paid.  Yet  the  annual  receipts  of  the  treasury  fall 
short  of  the  expenditure  by  two  millions  of  drachmas. 
The  army  is  the  most  expensive  part  of  the  public 
establishment.  The  amount  of  the  civil  list,  though 
much  less  considerable,  is  so  disproportioned  to  the 
resources  of  the  kingdom,  that  the  grievance  is  even 
greater  than  the  oppression.  No  retrenchment  can  be 
expected  in  this  quarter.  The  maintenance  of  royal  ' 
dignity  and  splendor  is  deemed  doubly  important 
when  it  has  no  basis  of  public  alTection  and  coufi- 
dencc.  The  same  considerations  will  probably  pre- 
vent any  reduction  of  the  army — the  most  enormous 
abuse  under  which  Greece  at  present  suffers.  This 
army  of  a thousand  men  Ls  equal,  taking  the  popula- 
tion at  eighty  thousand,  to  one  soldier  to  eighty  in- 
habitants. 


National  Kesources.  89 

This  army  is  independent  of  a considerable  police 
force,  which  is  indispensable,  and  of  the  national 
guards.  The  revenue  at  fourteen  million  drachmas, 
equals  about  three  dollars  per  head,  or  fifteen  dollars 
to  each  family.  This  is  less  than  is  paid  in  Great 
Britain  and  France,  but  taking  into  view  the  extreme 
poverty  of  Greece,  it  is  a higher  rate  of  taxation  by 
far  than  is  known  in  civilized  Europe,  and  sufiicient,  I 
am  confident,  to  prevent  any  considerable'progress  in 
wealth  and  civilization.  It  is  in  this  view  that  I con- 
sider heavy  taxes  the  worst  part  of  the  system  of  King 
Otho. 

I have  been  disappointed  in  Greece.  With  regard 
to  its  historical  and  classic  interest,  and  its  ancient  re- 
mains, my  expectations  have  been  more  than  realized. 
It  is  on  these  grounds,  the  precise  region  which  an  ed- 
ucated man  would  desire  to  see  above  any  part  of  the 
world. , It  is  with  regard  to  its  resources  and  present 
condition,  that  I had  been  misled  by  the  numerous  ac- 
/Counts  of  the  country,  which  have  been  read  with  so 
much  avidity  in  America  since  the  revolt  from  Turkey. 
I think  these  accounts  have  generally  been  colored  by 
a certain  enthusiasm,  natural  enough,  and  perhaps  al- 
lowable in  the  writers,  but  not  very  favorable  to  the 
purposes  of  such  readers  as  seek  for  accurate  infor- 
mation. 

It  would  not  be  easy  to  give  a stranger  an  adequate 
idea  of  the  poverty  of  the  country.  In  the  first  place, 
the  whole  kingdom  contains  only  a little  more  than 
thirty  thousand  square  miles,  about  as  much  as  Vir- 
ginia or  Missouri.  Of  this  area,  three -fourths  at  least 


90  Poverty  OF  the  Country. 

are  composed  of  barren  rocks,  which  are  incapable  of 
tillage.  From  Albania  to  Negropont,  the  whole  sea- 
coast  of  Greece  is  encumbered  with  a continuous  chain 
of  rugged,  bare  mountains — ^literally  naked  rocks  with- 
out trees  or  verdure,  and  perfectly  destitute  of  soil. 
Within  this  mountain  wall,  which  encompasses  the 
whole  kingdom,  there  are  many  fertile  valleys  and  a 
few  plains  of  a large  extent.  In  several  instances,  the 
hills  and  the  declivities  of  the  mountains  are  suscepti- 
ble of  a laborious  and  expensive  tillage  by  means  - of 
terraces. 

The  plain  of  Argos  contains,  it  may  be,  fifty  square 
miles  of  good  land.  The  arable  part  of  that  of  Lavidia 
is  less  extensive,  but  very  productive  in  wheat,  cotton, 
tobacco,  and  rice.  Boeotia  has  a large  region  of  excel- 
lent land — now,  as  it  was  anciently,  the  best  part  of 
Greece.  The  tracts  of  good  land  here  enumerated,  are 
always  spoken  of  as  the  best  as  well  as  the  most  con- 
siderable in  Greece.  I travelled  about  three  hundred 
miles  in  the  interior,  and,  judging  from  what  I saw,  as 
well  as  from  all  I could  learn  from  many  intelligent  resi- 
dents in  the  country,  I am  persuaded  that  the  arable 
land  in  the  whole  kingdom  is  not  equal  to  half  a 
dozen  counties  in  the  United  States.  More  than  that 
is  under  cultivation,  but  I speak  cT  land  suited  to  the 
plough,  and  of  fertility  to  reward  its  labor.  A multi- 
tude of  little  patches,  tilled  with  the  spade  or  hoe,  are 
found  in  various  situations.  Corn  or  vines  or  olives 
are  grown  on  terraces.  Considerable  portions  of  the  ^ 
interior  mountain  districts  afford  a scanty  herbage, 
upon  which  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  are  subsisted. 


Cultivation  of  the  Land.  91 


One-fourth  part  of  the  whole  country — possibly  a 
third,  though  I think  not — ^}:>ossesses  a measure  of  those 
facilities  out  of  which  a hardy  and  abstemioas  race  of 
men,  impelled  by  dire  necessity,  learn  to  force  a mea- 
gre and  barbarous  subsistence.  Greece,  as  is  well 
known,  imports  a large  part  of  its  corn,  as  well  as  all 
the  manufactures  which  it  consumes.  The  exports, 
chiefly  of  currants,  amount  to  two  million  drachmas. 
Whilst  many  parts  of  the  country,  little  fitted  for  agri- 
culture, are  laboriously  tilled  for  very  scanty  returns, 
scarcely  one-half  of  the  arable  land  is  occupied.  Two- 
thirds  of  the  good  land  belong  to  the  State.  It  was 
public  property  under  the  Turks,  and  was  greatly 
increased  by  confiscations  upon  their  exports  from 
Greece. 

A small  part  of  this  government  land  is  tilled  by 
tenants,  who  rent  from  the  king ; but  for  the  most  part 
it  lies  waste,  overrun  with  thorns  and  brambles.  The 
shepherds  bring  their  flocks  hither,  when  the  exhaus- 
tion of  the  mountain  ranges  drives  them  to  winter  in 
the  valleys.  Cultivators  prefer  to  rent  the  lands  of 
private  persons,  who  make  advances  of  capital  in  the 
shape  of  seed-corn,  implements,  and  stock.  This  the 
government  does  not  do,  and  the  lower  rent  at  which 
its  lands  are  offered  do  not  compensate  for  the  want  of 
these  facilities,  in  a country  where  the  tenants  are  ex- 
tremely poor. 

A system  has  been  adopted  for  the  sale  of  the  pub- 
lic lands,  but  hitherto  it  has  had  little  success.  The 
lands  are  offered  at  public  auction  to  the  highest  bid- 
der. The  sum  thus  ofiered  is  payable  in  instalments 


/ 


92  Scanty  Gtrowth.of  Timber. 


of  nine  per  cent,  per  annum  for  thirty  years,  when  the 
land  is  granted  in- fee  to  the  purchaser.  Thus  thirty 
years  are  necessary  to  perfect  a title,  which  in  most  in- 
stances must  devolve  upon  another  generation.  Few 
sales  would  be  effected  on  such  terms  even  in  countries, 
where  the  credit  and  stability  of  the  government  are 
above  suspicion. 

One  of  the  most  striking  features  of  Greece  is  its 
want  of  wood.  I travelled  twelve  days  in  the  Morea 
and  Northern  Greece,  without  seeing  a single  forest- 
tree,  with  the  exception  of  half  a dozen  stunted  ones 
from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high  in  the  island  of  Egina, 
and  an  old  plane-tree  at  Delphos.  On  the  thirteenth 
day  I saw  a few  pines  and  planes  near  the  Straits  of 
Negropont.  On  the  road  thence  to  Athens,  one  every 
now  and  then  secs  a few  bushes,  and  here  and  there  a 
stunted  tree.  I was  cheered  with  the  sight  of  a score 
of  venerable  oaks  on  the  northern  declivity  of  Mount 
Pentelicus. 

I was  told  that  some  parts  of  the  North  of  Greece 
and  the  island  of  Negropont  have  a better  supply  of 
timber.  , With  the  exception  of  the  oaks  I have  just 
mentioned,  I did  not  see  a single  tree  fit  for  the  pur- 
poses of  architecture  and  ship-building.  Timber  for 
these  purposes  is  imported  from  Trieste.  Much  of  the 
timber,  it  is  said,  as  well  as  everything  else  of  any 
value,  was  destroyed  by  the  Turks.  I presume  it  was 
very  scarce  before.  A plentiful  supply  of  fuel  is  ob- 
tained from  the  uncultivated  lands,  where  there  is  a 
low  growth  of  knotty,  crooked  bushes,  which  seem, 
however,  to  have  no  tendency  to  become  trees.  These 


Poverty  of  the  Country.  93 


are  cut  up,  or  rather  dug  up,  by  the  peasants,  and  car- 
ried upon  donkeys,  often  a great  distance,  to  the  vil- 
lages and  towns.  ' 

There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  mountains  of 
Greece  were  once  clothed  with  wood  and  verdure,  at 
least  to  a much  greater  extent  than  now.  The  soil 
has  been  gradually  borne  away  by  rains  and  torrents 
into  the  valleys  beneath,  till  nothing  is  left  to  alford 
nutriment  to  vegetation.  This  is  no  doubt  partly  the 
result  and  partly  the  cause  of  the  disappearance  of 
forest-trees.  Another  result  has  been  the  drying  up  of 
rivers  and  streams  of  water.  One  is  perpetually  pass- 
ing over  these  dry  beds,  which  are  never  full  except 
after  long  rains.  Many  rivers  and  streams  of  classical 
and  historical  celebrity,  and  of  great  utility  for  econom- 
ical purposes,  no  longer  exist.  Their  dry  and  rocky 
channels  alone  remain,  to  bear  testimony  to  the  vera- 
city of  ancient  geographers,  and  to  the  important  phys- 
ical changes  which  have  no  doubt  largely  contributed 
to  increase  the  sterility  of  a country,  which,  however, 
could  never  have  been  extensively  adapted  to  agricul- 
tural purposes. 

I have  spoken  elsewhere  of  the  scarcity  of  domestic 
animals,  with  the  exception  of  sheep.  When,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  physical  and  actual  condition  of  Greece,  it 
is  recollected  that  almost  every  species  of  moveable 
and  visible  property — houses,  money,  stock  in  trade, 
ships,  and  implements — were  annihilated  by  the  most 
desolating  war  which  history  records,  some  adequate 
notion  may  be  formed  of  the  extreme  poverty  of  the 
kingdom,  and  of  its  inability  to  bear  a rate  of  taxation 


r 


1 


94  Domestic  Habits. 

which  would  be  burthensome  to  a rich  and  advanced 
people.  It  seems  absolutely  incredible  that  tha  Greeks 
should  be  able,  by  any  sacrifices,  to  satisfy  the  exor- 
bitant demands  of  the  tax-gatherer. ' 

We  may  better  understand  this  subject  by  a consid- 
eration of  the  domestic  and  economic  habits  of  the 
people.  If -they  lived  as  expensively  as  Americans, 
or  even  Europeans,  not  only  could  they  not  pay  their 
taxes,  but  their  sterile  country  could  by  no  possibility 
support  them.  As  it  is,  there  is  room  for  a consider- 
able increase  of  population.  I think  the  daily  expense 
of  one  American  would  support  five  Greeks.  They 
eat  no  meat,  and,  with  few  exceptions,  neither  butter, 
cheese,  nor  milk.  A piece  of  black  bread  of  the  coarsest 
and  cheapest  sort,  and  a few  garlics  or  olives,  consti- 
tute their  food — the  whole  cost  of  which  for  a day  may 
be  four  cents. 

What  I say  on  this  subject  is  the  conclusion  derived 
from  careful  observation  and  many  inquiries.  Our 
servant  and  muleteers  often  ate  nothing  till  after  noon, 
and  said  they  were  accustomed  to  such  abstinence  and 
found  no  inconvenience  from  it.  Other  expenses  arc 
on  much  the  same  scale.  The  common  Greek  has  no 
costly  furniture,  neither  table,  chairs,  nor  beds,  neither 
floor,  chimney,  nor  windows  to  his  house.  He  has  no 
carriages  nor  carts,  no  barns  nor  outhouses.  A hovel, 
which  demands  no  skill  above  his  own  for  its  construc- 
tion, contains  him  and  his  family,  his  oxen,  donkey, 
&c.  He  is  inured  to  filth  and  vermin,  and  to  all  the 
privations  implied  in  the  destitution  I have  described. 
His  clothes  are  of  the  coarsest,  cheapest  sort.  There 


Degradation  of  the  People  95 

are  no  higliways  to  Avhose  construction  and  repair  he 
must  contribute — no  contributions,  or  next  to  none,  to 
build  churches  and  school-houses,  which  are  of  the 
same  style  with  his  dwelling.  A benignant  climate 
renders  this  primitive,  barbarous  style  of  living,  con- 
sistent with  the  preservation  of  life  and  health.  The 
Greek,  therefore,  having  no  expensive  wants  of  his 
own,  is  able  to  contribute  so  largely  of  the  meagre 
product  of  his  industry  to  satisfy  the  exorbitant  de- 
mands of  his  government,  which,  with  the  habits  of 
civihzed  life,  he  could  not  possibly  do.  In  this  view, 
it  is  the  interest  of  the  government  to  keep  him  what 
he  is,  a stark  barbarian, — an  object  which,  whether 
designed  or  not,  will  be  pretty  effectually  secured, 
by  means  as  simple  as  the  annual  collection  of  the 
revenue.  ' 

The  standard  of  taste  and  comfort  is  degraded.  No 
wonder  that  centuries  of  oppression  should  have  pro- 
duced such  results.  Still,  the  flattering  accounts  which 
had  fallen  under  my  notice  had  not  prepared  me  for 
so  general  a prevalence  of  degradation  and  barbar- 
ism. Those  who  look  and  labor  for  the  regeneration 
of  Greece,  and  her  elevation  to  the  dignity  of  a civil- 
ized country,  must  have  patience.  Great  changes 
cannot  be  wrought  hastily.  It  savors  of  a school-boy 
enthusiasm  to  expect  that,  because  in  the  days  of 
Pericles  and  Epaminondas,  the  Greeks  were  polished, 
and  highly  civilized,  the  present  occupants  of  the 
country,  who  are  perhaps  as  nearlj^  allied  to  many 
tribes  of  barbarians,  who  have  at  different  periods  over- 
run and  occupied  the  classic  land,  as  to  the  heroes  of 


96 


Moral'Influences. 


Marathon  and  Platea,  are  to  be  suddenly  invested  with 
the  high  attributes  of  moral,  social,  and  intellectual 
excellence,  which  are  always  of  slow  growth,  and  the 
results  of  favorable  circumstances,  accompanied  with 
careful  and  long  culture.  In  Athens,  and  some  other 
places,  the  intercourse  of  trade  and  commerce,  and 
still  more,  the  settlement  of  a large  number  of  foreign- 
ers, may  be  expected  to  work  a speedy  and  considera- 
ble improvement;  but  many  years,  probably  genera- 
tions, will  pass  away  before  an  effective  civilization, 
such  as  pervades  the  masses  in  the  United  States,  and 
in  one  or  two  of  the  nations  of  Europe,  can  reach  the 
interior  and  remote  parts  of  Grreece. 

I do  not  distrust  the  power  of  moral  influences.  In 
proportion  as  these  are  multiplied  and  judiciously 
directed,  may  we  hope  for  the  regeneration  of  the  peo- 
ple. Should  it  please  God  to  revive  Christianity  in  the 
Greek  church,  all  that  I have  said  of  obstacles  and  de- 
lay should  be  greatly  modified,  or  wholly  rejected. 
Unfortunately,  there  is  not,  as  far  as  I can  learn,  any 
very  decisive  indication  of  such  a revival.  With  a 
creed  not  very  remote  from  the  truth  as  it  is  in  Jesus, 
this  church,  to  which  the  people  are  bhndly  devoted, 
has  neither  intellectual  nor  spiritual  power  for  great 
moral  achievements.  The  foreign  agencies  are  decid- 
edly unequal  to  the  wants  of  the  country,  nor  have 
they,  as  far  as  I can  learn,  been  signalized  by  any  very 
marked  token  of  the  divine  approbation. 

Agriculture,  and  other  branches  of  industry,  have 
been  retarded  by  the  want  of  capital.  Money  has 
been  sca,rce  since  the  peace,  though  the  disbursements 


Scarcity  of  Money. 


97 


of  Europeans  liave  no  doubt  brought  considerable 
alleviation.  Capital  has  also  been  imported  into  Greece 
by  the  foreigners,  chiefly  Asiatic  Greeks,  and  pthers, 
who  have  invested  it  in  building  in  Athens.  Some 
Europeans  also  have  made  purchases  of  pro^Derty,  but 
I think  chiefly  of  the  Turks,  who  left  the  country,  and 
were  allowed,  in  northern  Greece,  to  sell  their  land, 
which  in  the  Morea  was  confiscated.  Still,  great 
inconvenience  has  been  felt  for  want  of  funds,  which 
has  been  aggravated  by  the  course  of  trade, — the  im- 
ports having  exceeded  the  exports  from  two  to  three 
or  four-fold.  The  payment  of  interest  on  the  foreign 
loans,  if  that  shall  ever  occur,  will  produce  another 
exhausting  drain.  No  uniform  rate  of  interest  has 
been  adopted,  or  indeed  could  be,  under  such  circum- 
stances. It  has  ranged  from  15  to  80  per  cent.,  accord- 
ing to  the  demand  for  money,  and  to  the  security 
which  the  borrower  was  able  to  give. 

The  agent  of  a rich  English  house  has  arrived  in 
Athens,  within  the  last  two  or  three  months,  to  obtain 
permission  from  the  government  to  establisli  a bank  on 
English  capital.  A charter  was  granted,  during  my 
stay  in  Greece,  for  a bank  and  a loaning  institution. 
The  proprietors  were  allowed  to  take  8 per  cent,  on 
loans  secured  by  real  estate,  and  10  on  ordinary  dis- 
counts. Sanguine  expectations  are  entertained  of  the 
good  to  be  derived  from  this  institution  ; and,  if  prop- 
erly and  liberally  conducted,  it  may  tend  greatly  to 
the  encouragement  of  industry  and  enterprise.  Many 
land-owners  are  now  obliged  to  permit  their  estates  to 
remain  totally  waste,  for  want  of  capital  to  put  them 

5 


98  Bank  on  English  Capital. 


in  a state  of  cultivation.  This  class  of  persons,  espe- 
cially, is  expected  to  derive  great  advantages  from  the 
loans,  whicji  it  will  form  a part  of  the  business  of  the 
new  bank  to  advance  upon  mortgages. 

Those  who  have  observed  the  effect  of  these  institu- 
tions in  other  countries,  in  stimulating  speculation  and 
producing  ultimate  embarrassments  and  bankruptcies, 
will  hardly  expect  that  Greece  will  realize  all  the  ad- 
vantages so  confidently  anticipated  from  an  institu- 
tion which  is  hailed  by  them  as  the  harbinger  of  un- 
exampled prosperity,  and  even  of  the  establishment  of 
a liberal  legislation.  This  effect,  it  is  thought,  the 
bank  will  indirectly  produce,  by  giving  rise  to  an 
independent  class  of  agricultural  proprietors  and  culti- 
vators, which  can  hardly  be  said  at  this  time  to  exist. 

The  government  has  shown  much  doubt  and  inde- 
cision as  to  the  course  it  should  adopt  with  regard  to 
the  introduction  of  this  monied  interest  into  Greece. 
After  receiving  the  proposals  of  the  English  agent 
favorably,  and  making  considerable  progress  in  the 
arrangement  of  terms,  unexpected  obstacles  arose,  and 
objections  were  multiplied.  The  removal  of  these 
only  tended  to  produce  new  ones,  till  at  last  the  agent 
became  convinced  that  the  government  had  no  other 
design  but  to  defeat,  by  delay  and  management,  an 
entcrjDrise  which,  in  the  state  of  the  country,  and 
especially  with  the  exaggerated  expectations  of  the 
public,  they  were  unwilling  formally  to  reject.  Under 
this  impression,  he  gave  notice  that,  if  the  charter 
should  not  be  granted  by  a certain  early  day,  which 
was  fixed,  he  would  break  off  the  negociation,  and  cm- 


Shallow  Artifice. 


99 


bark  for  England.  The  day  arrived  without  any  news 
from  the  ultimatum.  He  sent  his  baggage  to  the  steam- 
boat, and  his  family  followed.  The  gentleman  was 
aecidentally  delayed  in  his  departure  for  a short  time, 
after  he  was  expeeted  to  leave.  At  this  moment  the 
permission  so  long  sought  for  in  vain  was  sent  to  his 
hotel.  Under  all  the  eircumstances,  it  was  universally 
believed  that  it  was  the  intention  of  the  government  to 
defeat  the  enterprise  by  withholding  the  communiea- 
tion  until  after  his  departure,  and  to  eseape  the  odium 
of  rejecting  a public  advantage  by  this  poor  artifice. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


EGIN A. 

November  3d.  We  left  Athens  at  8 in  the  morn- 
ing, having  engaged  a boatman  to  take  ns  from  the 
Piraeus  to  Egina,  and  thence  to  Epidaurus,  for  which 
we  are  to  ]eay  forty-three  drachmas — about  seven  dol- 
lars. Upon  our  arrival  at  the  wharf,  we  met  with  a 
vexatious  delay  of  nearly  two  hours,  and  finally  got 
off  at  11  o’clock.  Our  dragoman,  Demetrius,  bore  it 
more  patiently  than  we.  lie  is  hired  by  the  day,  and 
it  is  his  interest  to  prolong  our  journey  by ^ all  prac- 
ticable means.  He  alleged  some  difficulty  in  procur- 
ing the  necessary  papers  at  the  health  office,  for  these 
profitable  manoeuvres  are  practiced  in  young  Greece 
with  a dexterity  that  would  do  credit  to  the  hungry 
employes  of  older  governments.  We  had  given  the 
man  special  orders  to  prevent  delay  by  making  due 
provision  the  previous  night,  and  as  this  was  rather 
an  inauspicious  commencement  of  operations,  we  gave 
him  a lecture  upon  his  carelessness  or  bad  faith,  which  I 
hope  may  prove  useful  hereafter.  Our  boatmen  steered 
directly  for  an  ancient  temple  upon  Egina,  which  was 
the  chief  object  of  our  visit,  but  after  we  had  ap- 


Heavy  Gale. 


101 


proaclied  within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  landing- 
place, 'they  sheered  off  to  the  right  for  the  harbor  of 
Egina,  which  was  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles,  alleging 
that  there  was  no  good  anchorage  nearer,  and  in  spite 
of  all  our  remonstrances,  refused  to  attempt  a landing. 
This  adds  one  day  at  least  to  our  voyage,  since  we 
must  visit  the  temple  on  horseback  to-morrow,  and 
then  proceed  to  Epidaurus,  instead  of  reaching  that 
place  to-night,  according  to  our  original  plan.  We 
thought  this  change  unnecessary,  and  did  not  fail  to 
remonstrate  against  it  earnestly.  It,  however,  turned 
out  for  the  best. 

The  light,  changeful  breezes,  by  which  we  had  been 
baffled  and  delayed,  became  after  an  hour  a heavy 
gale,  which  tossed  our  frail  bark  to  and  fro  at  its  will. 
We  secured  ourselves  as  well  as  we  might  from  the 
cold,  suddenly  become  very  piercing,  by  creeping  un- 
der the  deck  and  covering  ourselves  with  our  quilts. 
We  were  soon  intolerably  sick  from  the  motion  of  the 
boat,  and,  I apprehend,  in  no  little  danger.  The  boat 
was  small,  though  of  the  usual  size  of  Greek  craft 
employed  upon  these  coasts.  With  little  ballast, — 
of  sand  covered  with  gravel,  upon  which  we  spread 
our  quilts  under  a deck  raised  about  three  feet  above 
the  primitive  floor,  the  sails  were  of  enormous  di- 
mensions, and  either  from  want  of  force  or  skill,  our 
padrone  and  his  three  assistants,  two  of  whom  were 
boys,  managed  them  with  great  difficulty,  which  was 
of  course  greatly  increased,  as  it  became  necessary  to 
tack  frequently,  and  the  sea  was  greatly  agitated  by 
the  furious  blast.  It  was  eight  o’clock  in  the  evening 


102 


Group  of  Sleepers. 


when  we  landed  at  Egina,  though  the  distance  from 
the  Piraeus  is  estimated  at  only  eighteen  miles,  and 
we  had  embarked  at  9j,  and  sailed  at  10 J A.  M.  We 
sent  Demetrius  on  shore  to  engage  a place  to  sleep 
upon  the  floor  of  the  only  inn  in  the  place — the  only  ac- 
commodation of  the  kind  in  Greece,  with  the  exception 
of  Athens,  where  we  found  tolerable  hotels,  and  as  we 
have  been  informed,  Patras  and  Napoli  di  Koma.  Our 
messenger  soon  returned  with  the  unpleasant  tidings 
that  the  tavern  was  occupied  by  revellers  and  dancers, 
and  could  not  afford  even  this  poor  accommodation. 

We  at  length  found  shelter  in  what  passes  for  a 
coffee-house — a wretched  place  without  a floor  or  any 
other  comfort,  except  a roof  and  a few  rough  chairs. 
The  front  room,  the  best  in  the  house,  is  partly  paved 
with  pebbles.  The  family  and  the  lodgers  were  al- 
ready gone  io  rest  upon  a bench  of  convenient  width 
and  height,  that  extended  around  three  sides  of  this 
apartment.  They  were  stretched  one  after  another 
upon  the  bare  plank,  covered*  with  their  garments,  and 
some  with  their  hooded  capotes  of  thick  hairy  cloth, 
and  gaudily  trimmed  according  to  the  fashion  of  the 
country.  I observed  that  they  had  no  pillows,  or  sub- 
stitute for  them,  but  laid  their  heads  upon  the  bench, 
of  course  considerably  below  the  horizontal  position 
of  the  body.  They  slept  soundly,  however,  and  seen 
by  the  glimmering  light  of  a small  lamp  suspended  in 
the  middle  of  the  room,  the  group  was  picturesque. 

We  were  shown  into  a back  room  used  for  cook- 
ing, and  occupied  by  old  tubs,  barrels,  utensils,  fuel, 
lime,  })ilcs  of  vegetables,  with  nameless  kinds  of  filth. 


EgIN  A. 


103 


wliicli  we  had  neither  time  nor  inclination  to  investi- 
gate very  closely.  In  one  corner  of  this  room  was  an 
elevated  platform,  where  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  spread  their 
bed.  In  another  was  a low  arch,  not  unlike  an  enor- 
mous oven,  in  which  an  old  table  had  been  placed 
apparently  as  a receptacle  for  such  unsightly  objects 
as  it  did  not  comport  with  their  style  of  housekeeping 
to  place  in  more  conspicuous  positions.  Here,  after 
Demetrius  had  performed  some  ablutions  with  an  old 
broom,  I contrived  to  spread  a thick  cotton  quilt, 
which  I had  bought  in  Athens,  to  answer  the  purpose 
of  mattress,  sheets,  and  all  other  appliances  of  a bed, 
and  with  my  cloak  tightly  rolled  for  a pillow,  I soon 
fell  asleep,  and  enjoyed  for  several  hours  a profound 
repose,  such  as  I had  not  had  for  many  months.  , Un- 
fortunately, the  customers  who  were  asleep  when  we 
came  in  after  eight  o’clock,  began  to  rise  at  three,  and 
I was  disturbed  by  the  landlord,  who  came  to  kindle  a 
fire  and  make  coffee  for  his  guests.  There  was  no 
more  quiet  for  the  rest  of  the  night. 

November  4th.  The  harbor  of  Egina,  where  we 
landed  last  night,  is  fit  only  for  small  craft,  for  which 
it  seems  to  be  safe.  A few  only  were  visible,  not  more 
than  fifteen  or  twenty,  with  fishing-boats  of  still  small- 
er dimensions.  There  is  little  appearance  of  trade, 
though  the  town  is  said  to  possess  more  comm.erce 
than  it  formerly  did,  and  to  have,  as  well  as  the  whole 
island,  an  increased  population.  This,  however,  can- 
not amount  to  more  than  a few  hundreds.  The  houses 
are  several  of  them  well  built,  at  least  for  Greece, 
where  all  that  is  old,  even  so  old  as  twenty  or  thiTty 


104 


Rocky  Soil. 


years,  is  in  ruins,  and  wliat  is  new  is  generally  of  tlic 
slightest  and  cheapest  construction.  The  chief  build- 
ing in  the  j)lace.is  a very  extensive  structure  of  stone^ 
erected,  during  the  administration  of  Capo  d’lstria,  for 
a seminary  of  education. 

It  might  from  its  appearance  accommodate  several 
hundred  students,  but  it  is  now  unoccupied,  and  is 
likely  to  be  so,  as  it  is  superseded  by  another  institu- 
tion of  the  same  kind — a school  of  industry  which  has 
been  established  at  Athens.  Another  building,  which 
I took  for  the  town-hall  or  court-house,  is  also  substan- 
tially built  and  of  considerable  dimensions. 

The  region  back  of  the  town  to  the  extent  of  two 
or  three  miles,  is  nearly  level,  and,  possessing  the  ad- 
vantage of  a fruitful  soil,  is  well  cultivated  in  vegeta- 
bles, grain,  vines,  and  olives.  Considerable  quantities 
of  vegetables  are  sent  to  the  Athenian  market.  Im- 
mediately behind  this  fruitful  plane  rise  lofty,  sterile 
mountains,  like  those  which  constitute  all  the  islands 
as  well  as  the  mainland  of  Greece,  so  far  as  I liavo 
seen  it.  These,  however,  are  interspersed  with  many 
valleys  of  small  extent,  yet  susceptible  of  tillage.  The 
sides  of  the  mountain^,  too,  when  not  quite  bare  of 
soil,  are  terraced  with  much  labor,  and  planted  with 
olives  or  sown  in  grain.  Upon  the  whole,  Egina  is 
better  cultivated  and  seems  to  be  more  productive  than 
Attica. 

Some  travellers  speak  of  it  as  a fruitful  garden,  rich 
in  the  products  of  a genial  soil.  I saw  little  in  pass- 
ing through  the  island  to  justify  these  praises.  It  has 
the  general  appearance  of  sterility,  and  the  larger  por- 


Aerial  Town. 


105 


tion  of  its  surface  is  incapable  of  tillage.  The  rest  is 
nearly  all  covered  with  stones,  and  at  the  depth  of 
only  a few  inches  in  many  places  where  excavation 
had  been  made,  all  is  solid  rock.  The  scarcity  of 
water  must  render  irrigation  impracticable  to  any 
great  extent.  Considerable  industry  is  exhibited  in 
cultivating  what  is  tillable,  and  several  comfortable 
cottages  and  good  farms  are  seen  in  different  parts  of 
the  route  to  the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Panhel- 
linius,  which  is  nearly  at  the  opposite  end  of  the 
island  from  the  port,  the  road  passing  nearly  through 
its  centre. 

It  is  not  indeed  a road,  being  hardly  practicable  for 
foot  passengers.  It  is  a steep,  narrow,  rocky  pathway, 
winding  in  every  direction  along  gullies  and  preci- 
pices. No  labor  is  employed  to  keep  it  in  repair,  and 
it  was  obviously  made  at  ffrst,  as  it  is  now  maintained, 
by  the  feet  of  the  donkey  and  human  beings  who 
travel  it. 

About  half  way  between  the  present  town  and  the 
temple,  are  the  ruins  of  another  Egina,  built  by  the 
Venetians.  It  was  built  near  the  top  and  on  the  almost 
perpendicular  side  of  a conical  mountain.  This  place 
could  have  been  chosen  only  for  the  security  which  a 
citadel  occupying  the  pinnacle  of  the  mountain  afford- 
ed to  the  city  below,  which  it  overlooks,  as  indeed 
every  house  completely  overlooks  the  one  immediately 
below  it.  No  carriage  of  course  ever  ascended  this 
aerial  town,  and  it  must  have  been  nearly  impossible 
for  loaded  donkeys  to  do  so,  though  it  is  difficult  to  say 
what  these  hardy,  docile  animals  may  not  be  trained 


106 


Magnificent  View. 


tO'  achieve  in  the  way  of  climbing.  Two  or  three 
houses  seem  still  to  be  occupied.  The  rest  are  unroof- 
ed, and  the  most  of  the  walls  have  fallen  in.  I ob- 
served one  church,  which  seemed  to  be  kept  in  repair. 
This  town  was  deserted  to  build  the  one  upon  the 
shore,  which  is  every  way  superior  in  position  and 
commercial  advantages.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Egina,  though  no  ruins  are  visible,  with  the 
exception  of  a single  marble  column,  a few  rods  north 
of  the  limits  of  the  town,  supposed  to  have  belonged 
to  a heathen  temple. 

The  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Panhellenius  was 
*the  chief  object  of  our  visit  to  Egina.  It  is  situated 
near  the  eastern  end  of  the  island,  here  not  more  than 
a mile  wide,  upon  the  ridge  that  rises  nearly  equi-dis- 
tant  between  the  northern  and  southern-  shores.  The 
hill  is  of  considerable  elevation,  but  it  is  overlooked 
by  those  which  lie  near  it,  both  east  and  west.  It  is, 
and,  for  aught  that  appears,  always  was,  remote  from 
human  habitations.  The  ascent  is  easy,  and  the  view 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  that  can  be  conceived. 
It  embraces  nearly  the  whole  island  of  Egina,  with  its 
precipitous,  rocky  mountains  and  deep  valleys.  To 
the  north  are  Athens  and  the  Piraeus,  together  with  the 
splendid  ruins  of  the  Acropolis.  The  mountains  of 
Attica,  and  the  coast  as  far  as  Sunium,  the  island  and 
gulf  of  Salamis,  with  its  numerous  smaller  islets,  and  the 
coast  of  the  Morea,  are  seen  from  the  same  side.  On 
the  south,  the  view  is  scarcely  less  extensive,  though 
certainly  the  objects  are  less  imposing.  They  include. 


Temple  of  Jupiter  Paniiellenius.  107 


however,  Ilyclra  and  several  other  islands,  the  shores 
of  Peloponnesus,  and  a vast  extent  of  sea. 

This  temple  is  represented  to  be  one  of  the  oldest  in 
Greece,  and  the  gray  porous  stone  of  which  it  was  con- 
structed give  to  its  remaining  columns,  corroded  as 
they  are  by  time,  the  appearance  of  hoary  age  beyond 
any  ruins  I have  "elsewhere  seen.  These  columns, 
originally  thirty- six  in  number,  twelve  on  each  side 
and  six  at  the  ends,  besides  two  rows  of  smaller  ones 
in  the  interior,  of  which  many  pieces  remain,  though 
all  are  fallen,  are  about  nine  feet  in  circumference  at 
the  base.  They  are  of  the  Doric  order, — each  has 
twenty  flutings,  which  are  therefore  a little  less  than 
six  inches  wide.  Twenty -three  of  these  columns  are 
yet  standing. 

The  eastern  front  is  unbroken,  and,  seen  at  a little 
distance,  the  columns  appear  to  be  perfect,  though, 
upon  a close  inspection,  they  are  found  to  be  consider- 
ably abraded.  Their  solidity  is  unimpaired,  and,  with- 
out some  convulsion  of  nature,  they  may  stand  two 
thousand  five  hundred  years  more — a memorial  of  the 
taste  and  genius  of  the  ancient  Greeks.  Twenty-two 
of  these  columns  are  surmounted  by  huge  blocks  of 
the  same  species  of  stone,  constituting  the  architrave 
of  the  temple,  which  is  thus  far  entire,  though  the  cor- 
nice and  frieze,  formed  of  less  massive  materials,  have 
all  fallen  and  disappeared.  They  have  probably  been 
carried  away  by  antiquaries  and  amateurs  to  adorn  the 
galleries  of  Europe. 

Portions  of  them  are  said  to  have  been  purchased  by 
the  King  of  Bavaria,  and  now  adorn  his  mil|eum  at 


108  Temple  of  Jupiter  Panhellenius. 


Munich.  When  this  sale  took  place,  I know  not. 
Who,  it  might  be  asked,  has  a right  to  dispose  of 
these  precious  remains  of  antiquity.  Is  it  possible 
that  the  government  of  Greece  has  increased  its  reve- 
nues by  the  sale  of  what  should  be  considered  the  most 
valuable  resources  of  this  poor  and  exhausted  country  ? 
It  is  a disgrace  and  a crime  to  have  perpetrated  or  to 
have  connived  at  such  a transaction,  and  it  is  hardly 
credible  that  such  a lover  and  patron  of  the  fine  arts 
as  the  King  of  Bavaria  is  known  to  be,  should  have 
been  a participator  in  it.  He  is  understood  to  have 
neglected  the  more  important  interests  of  his  kingdom 
in  his  zeal  for  the  promotion  of  architecture,  sculpture, 
and  painting,  and  it  would  be  peculiarly  unfortunate 
for  his  reputation,  should  he  fix  upon  it  the  stigma  of 
having  robbed  the  dominion  of  his  son  of  any  of  those 
inimitable  works  of  art  which  constitute  their  peculiar 
attraction,  and  may,  if  left  to  their  rightful  owners, 
the  Greek  nation,  have  a decided  influence  in  acceler- 
ating their  return  to  wealth  and  civilization. 

This  temple  had  its  front  to  the  east,  where  a large 
part  of  the  ancient  pavement  remains  entire.  The 
ascent  to  it  was  by  three  steps,  which  are  also  in  good 
preservation.  They  are  little  calculated  for  the  com- 
fort of  those  who  may  ascend  them,  being  nearly  a 
foot  and  a half  in  height.  It  is  remarkable  that  in  all 
these  public  edifices,  the  Greeks  had  more  regard  for 
symmetry  than  convenience.  The  steps  leading  into 
the  Parthenon,  are  nearly  two  feet  in  height.  It  is  ob- 
vious that  these-  must  harmonize  with  the  magnitude 
of  such  structures  far  better  than  such  as  have  more 


Size  of  Ancient  Temples.  109 


adaptation  to  convenience.  It  may  be  said  that  these 
temples  were  not  designed  for  public  assemblies.  It 
seems  probable  that  few  besides  those  immediately 
engaged  in  the  performance  of  religious  ceremonies, 
were  accustomed  to  enter  them.  Those  who  were 
mere  spectators  remained  without  in  the  open  air. 
The  diminutive  size  of  many  Greek  as  well  as  Koman 
temples,  renders  this  conclusion  unavoidable.  The 
stones  of  which  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Panhellenius 
was  built,  are  large  and  massive.  I measured  one, 
which  must  have  occupied  an  elevated  position  in  the 
building,  that  was  about  fourteen  feet  long  by  four 
thick,  and  it  was  of  still  greater  width. 

We  returned  from  these  interesting  ruins  at  1 p.  M., 
much  fatigued  but  highly  gratified.  Our  voyage  to 
Epidaurus  was  accomplished  in  two  and  a half  hours, 
with  a fair  wind  and  a smooth  sea. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


ANCIENT  EPIDAURUS. 

December  5th.  We  spent  a little  time  last  night 
in  looking  at  the  very  slight  remains  of  ancient  Epi- 
claurus,  a city  which  possessed  some  importance 
amongst  the  Grecian  republics.  It  was  built  on  both 
sides  of  a promontory  of  small  extent,  but  of  consider- 
able elevation,  which  rises  from  a flat  back-ground  into 
the  bay  of  Salamis.  On  either  side  of  this  promontory 
is  a small  harbor,  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the 
ships  of  the  ancient  city.  Only  one  is  now  used,  in 
which  a few  coasting  vessels,  or  rather  large  boats — I 
should  think  not  more  than  five  or  six,  were  moored  in 
apparent  security  from  the  sea.  Several  fragments  of 
statuary,  evidently  antique,  are  lying  in  a ploughed 
fleld,  which  was  probably  near  the  centre  of  old  Epi- 
daurus. 

One  is  a part  of  a monument  to  the  dead,  and  is 
of  good  workmanship.  In  several  places  are  seen, 
overgrown  by  a thick  and  tangled  under-brush,  mas- 
sive blocks  of  stone,  which  were  undoubtedly  the  foun- 
dations of  important  public  buildings.  In  another 
locality,  I saw  a block  of  fine  white  marble,  which  had 


Ancient  Epidaurus.  Ill 

the  appearance  of  having  been  recently  disinterred. 
It  was  chiselled  in  the  manner  of  an  architrave,  though 
not  elaborately.  Other  blocks  of  the  common  stone 
lay  partly  uncovered  in  the  same  place,  and  all  proba- 
bly belonged  to  some  edifice  of  which  it  is  not  im- 
probable that  further  excavations  may  reveal  the  means 
of  forming  some  more  definite  idea.  These  constitute 
the  sole  remains  of  a city  once  powerful  and  opulent. 

The  modern  Epidaurus  consists  of  half  a dozen  re- 
spectable looking  buildings,  which  seemed  to  be  occu- 
pied as  shops,  and  of  fifty  or  sixty  cottages,  mostly  of 
mud  walls,  and  occupied  by  the  cultivation  of  a small 
tract  of  level  fertile  land,  which  lies  between  the  beach 
and  the  mountains.  Several  more  were  engaged  in 
ploughing  with  oxen,  which  are  mostly  used  for  this 
purpose  in  Greece.  The  plough  is  here,  and,  I believe, 
throughout  the  kingdom,  of  the  most  primitive  and 
clumsy  construction.  The  beam  is  long,  reaching  to  a 
yoke,  and  the  cattle  are  attached  to  it  as  to  a cart.  It 
has  but  one  handle,  which  is  commonly  held  in  the 
left  hand,  and  in  the  right  is  a pole  eight  or  ten  feet  in  , 
length,  armed  at  one  end  with  iron,  to  clear  the  share, 
and  used  also  to  quicken  the  speed  of  the  oxen,  for 
which  purpose  it  is  sometimes  pointed  with  a goad. 
The  share  is  only  a straight  piece  of  iron  eight  or  ten 
inches  long  by  four  wide,  which  turns  the  furrow 
equally  on  both  sides.  The  ploughing  is  shallow,  and 
certainly  very  imperfect.  I have  often  seen  the  same 
kind  of  plough  in  Italy,  where  it  is  in  common,  if  not 
exclusive  use.  It  is  the  only  plough  in  Greece,  and  is 
probably  the  same  which  was  used  in  the  days  of  Ho- 


112 


Primitive  Plough. 


mer  and  Hesiod.  1 was  told  that  several  proprietors 
had  lately  imported  English  ploughs  into  Attica,  with 
the  hope  of  introducing  a more  thorough  and  perfect 
tillage.  They  were  laid  aside,  however,  by  the  peasants 
after  a short  trial,  and  there  seems  little  probability  that 
this  approved  implement  of  agriculture  will  soon  be 
supplanted,  though  certainly  it  would  tend  more  to  the 
advancement  of  the  country  in  wealth  and  civilization  , 
than  the  adoption  of  the  Frank  dress,  which  threatens 
to  become  general  at  least  in  the  towns.  The  peas- 
antry, it  must  be  allowed,  have  hitherto  resisted  this 
innovation  upon  their  hereditary  customs,  and  perhaps 
they  at  least  may,  for  a long  time  to  come,  preserve 
some  of  the  distinctive  features  of  ^the  Grecian  char- 
acter. 

Our  accommodations  at  the  inn  were  less  disgustingly 
filthy  than  at  Egina,  but  they  were  less  comfortable. 
The  weather  had  become  cold.  We  landed  chilled 
with  the  east  wind,  which  had  wafted  us  so  speedily 
across  the  bay  of  Salamis,  and  were  shown  into  a room 
in  the  upper  story,  where  there  was  no  means  of  kin- 
dling a fire.  The  wind  poured  in  upon  us  through  a 
hundred  apertures,  and  I found  my  thick  quilt  of  cot- 
ton an  insufficient  protection  against  the  cold.  We 
engaged  five  of  the  horses  to  carry  us  to  Napoli — three 
for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  and  myself,  one  for  Demetrius, 
and  one  to  carry  our  baggage.  They  were  all  wretch- 
ed-looking animals,  such  as  no  man  in  America  would 
think  of  attempting  a journey  with.  For  these  horses 
and  their  guides,  of  whom  three  accompanied  us,  we 
agreed  to  pay  five  and  a-half  drachmas,  about  eighty- 


Ghotesque  Cortege.  IIS 

two  cents  each.  Mrs.  0.  had  brought  a side-saddle 
from  Athens.  I was  complimented  with  a remnant 
of  an  old  Turkish  saddle,  the  worst  and  least  convenient 
certainly  in  the  world.  The  other  horses  were  sur- 
mounted with  huge  frames  of  wood,  extending  almost 
the  whole  length  of  the  animals,  with  cushions,  or 
some  other  appliances,  under  them  to  protect  the  horse, 
and  blankets  and  quilts  above  to  protect  the  rider.  I 
believe  there  was  a single  bridle,  and  that  broken  in 
several  places,  and  without  a throat-latch.  The  rest 
rode  with  clumsy  rope-halters,  which,  however,  the 
animals  obeyed  tolerably  well.  Our  beds,  bags,  trunks, 
baskets  of  provisions,  and  cooking-utensils,  were  piled 
upon  the  pack-horse,  till  he  was  quite  lost  under  his 
huge  burthen.  The  rest  was  distributed  amongst  the 
riders,  as  they  could  take  charge  of  it. 

Thus  prepared  and  equipped,  we  set  off  for  Napoli, 
about  thirty  miles  distant,  a little  before  8 A.  M.  The 
novelty  of  our  situation,  and  the  grotesque  appearance 
of  our  cortege,  were  at  first  a source  of  amusement, 
and  tended  to  beguile  our  journey  of  its  fatigue.  Our 
way  at  first  lay  through  a valley  of  a few  hundred 
yards  in  breadth,  bounded  by  high  mountains,  not  like 
those  we  had  been  accustomed  to  see  in  Greece,  bare 
of  trees  and  vegetation.  A few  stunted  bushes  and 
scattered  shrubs,  which  had  not  yet  been  discolored 
with  frost,  partly  covered  their  nakedness,  and  relieved 
them  of  that  aspect  of  savage  and  desolate  sterility 
which  now  impressed  me  with  a feeling  that  bor 
dered  upon  positive  pain.  The  valley  was  naturally 
fertile,  and  had  formerly  been  tilled,  as  the  scattered 


114 


Precipitous  Paths. 


olive-trees  bore  testimony.  It  was  now  overrun  with 
a rank  and  tangled  growth  of  bushes,  briars  and  shrubs, 
which  overhung  our  path,  and  often  left  no  room  to 
pass.  To  increase  the  difficulty,  it  rained  with  great 
violence ; and  the  necessity  of  lowering  our  umbrellas 
every  moment,  and  of  brushing  off  the  rain-drops  from 
the  obtrusive  foliage  with  our  heads  or  shoulders, 
added  materially  to  the  discomfort  and  toil  of  the 
journey. 

As  we  advanced,  the  mountains  on  our  right  and  left 
gradually  approached  each  other ; and  by  the  time  we 
had  advanced  three  miles,  we  were  threading  our  way 
along  the  dry  bed  of  a mountain  torrent,  sometimes 
on  one  side,  and  sometimes  on  the  other  of  the  rocky 
pathway,  always  obstructed  by  the  brushwood  and 
the  projecting  rocks,  that  scarcely  left  a place  for  the 
careful  animals  to  put  down  their  feet.  We  soon 
began  to  ascend  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  the  valley 
no  longer  having  sufficient  width.  Our  path  became 
more  and  more  precipitous  and  difficult,  till  we  were 
clinging  to  the  side  of  the  steep  declivity,  at  the 
height  of  several  hundred  feet, — our  path  a mere  in- 
cision in  the  rock  of  hardly  a foot  in  breadth,  and  an 
absolute  precipice  above  and  below  us.  Our  lives 
evidently  depended  upon  the  steadiness  and  skill  of 
our  horses ; and  for  several  miles  a single  trip  would 
have  been  fatal.  These  sagacious  and  experienced 
animals  evidently  reconnoitred  every  step,  and  warily 
'chosc  the  «pot  for  every  movement  of  the  feet.  They 
stepped  long  or  short,  as  the  case  might  require, — 
sometimes  resting  upon  the  projecting  point  of  a rock. 


Ancient  Theatre. 


115 


sometimes  carefully  reaching  over  a suspicious  looking 
place. 

The  road  was  for  considerable  distances  worn  into 
the  rock  or  hard  soil,  to  the  depth  of  a foot  or  more, 
occasionally  not  six  inches  wide  at  the  bottom,  or  ter- 
minating in  a positive  acute  angle.  For  nearly  two 
hours  we  proceeded  in  this  way,  without  any  accident, 
and  about  11  a.  m.  we  came  into  a more  open  region. 
This  soon  spread  into  a pleasant  valley  of  considerable 
extent,  which  formerly  contained  the  grove  of  Escu- 
lapius,  and  all  the  appliances  of  an  ancient  watering- 
place.  The  ruins  which  still  remain  attest  the  great 
extent  and  magnificence  of  this  city  of  invalids.  The 
foundations  of  a large  town  are  spread  all  around  over 
the  valley.  The  sites  of  several  temples  are  indicated 
by  masseS'Of  hewn  stones  of  large  dimensions,  such  as 
were  hardly  ever  used  in  building  private  dwellings. 
Besides  these,  there  are  remains  of  buildings  so  perfect 
as  clearly  to  point  out  their  uses. 

There  is  a large  theatre  on  the  south  side  of  the  val- 
ley, formed  by  excavating  the  side  of  a mountain,  so 
as  to  form  an  area  capable  of  containing  an  immense 
audience,  not  less,  I should  think,  taking  estimates 
made  of  other  similar  areas  which  I have  seen,  than 
three  or  five  thousand  persons.  There  are  fifty-eight 
rows  of  scats,  rising  one  above  another  around  this  vast 
semi-circle.  These  seats  are  a little  more  than  a foot 
in  height,  from  which  the  elevation  of  the  whole  struc- 
ture is  readily  appreciated.  They  are,  I think,  more 
than  two  feet  wide,  and,  from  the  grooves  cut  in  all 
of  them,  seem  to  have  had  a wooden  back,  constructed 


Stadium. 


' 116 

for  the  greater  ease  of  the  speetators,  who  are  presumed 
to  have  been  invalids,  as  no  other  ancient  building 
appears  to  have  this  provision.  There  was  a pas- 
sage upon  every  seat  behind  the  back,  for  passing  to 
and  from  each  place  without  disturbing  the  occupants 
of  the  others.  Access  to  the  different  tiers  of  seats  was 
had  by  twenty  flights  of  stairs,  about  two  feet  ifi 
width,  which  extended  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of 
this  immense  amphitheatre,  at  equal  distances.  A 
large  part  of  the  seats  and  steps  still  retain  their  origi- 
nal places,  and  very  few  of  them  have  been  removed 
from  the  ground  ; so  that  this  may  be  regarded  as  one 
of  the  most  considerable  and  massive  of  the  antiquities 
of  Greece.  Like  the  other  Grecian  theatres,  this  had 
no  roof,  the  performances  being  held  in  the  open  air. 

At  a small  distance  from  the  theatre  is  a stadium  of 
large  dimensions.  It  is  not  in  so  good  preservation  as 
the  former.  Its  form,  however,  is  perfect,  and  many 
of*  the  huge  stone  seats  remain  in  their  places.  It  is 
oblong,  and,  like  the  theatre,  was  formed  at  least  in  part 
by  excavating  the  earth. 

The  only  remaining  ruin  worthy  of  special  notice  is 
a bath,  partly  at  least  below  the  surface.  I did  not 
measure  its  extent,  but  it  can  hardly  be  less  than 
seventy-five  or  a hundred  feet  in  length.  The  walls 
of  massive  hewn  stone  remain  almost  entire,  to  the 
height  of  eight  or  ten  feet.  A spout  to  introduce 
water  into  the  bath  is  made  of  red  granite,  each  block 
more  than  one  foot  square.  Eows  of  massive  stones, 
prepared  with  large  grooves  for  conducting  water,  may 
be  seen  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  bath  and  elsewhere, 


Remains  of  Ancient  Baths.  117 

indicating  tlie  existence  of  others  of  which  no  relic 
now  remains.  There  is  also  a large  mass  of  brick- work, 
in  the  Roman  style,  presumed  to  be  the  remains  of  a 
public  bath  or  of  a temple.  A rivulet  running  near 
was  said  to  have  medicinal  virtues,  and,  as  the  highest 
recommendation,  this  was  alleged  to  be  the  birth-place 
of  Esculapius, 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


NAPOLI. 

From  tlie  site  of  these  ruins  to  Napoli,  tliougli  the 
road  is  hilly  and  rough,  it  can  hardly  be  denominated 
mountainous.  There  is  a small  agricultural  village  at 
the  distance  of  not  more  than  a mile,  with  some  fields, 
apparently  fertile,  though  badly  tilled.  Then  succeeds, 
for  a distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles,  an  uncultivated 
waste,  much  of  it  formerly  tilled,  but  now  overrun 
with  shrubs  and  bushes,  none  of  them  amounting  to 
trees  of  the  size  of  a man’s  arm.  These  the  peasants 
were  cutting  and  carrying  in  bundles,  bound  with 
ropes  upon  the  backs  of  donkeys,  to  sell  for  fuel  in 
Napoli  and  Argos.  This  wood  was  seldom  more  than 
one  or  two  inches  in  diameter.  The  land,  I was. told, 
belongs  to  the  king,  and  the  peasants  get  the  wood 
without  any  expense  but  the  labor. 

We  met  in  this  valley  many  flocks  of  sheep  and  a 
few  of  cattle,  proceeding  from  the  mountains  of  the 
Morea,  where  they  spend  the  summer,  to  the  islands 
which  give  sustenance  in  the  winter.  The  shepherds 
were  accompanied  by  their  families,  with  their  tents, 
their  only  dwellings,  and  their  furniture — kettles,  beds. 


Shepherds  and  their  Flocks.  119 

and  corn  upon  droves  of  donkeys.  The  women  car 
ried  large  packs  also,  and  many  of  them  had  their  chil- 
dren tied  in  a kind  of  long  narrow  box,  not  unlike  a 
miniature  cannon  slung  upon  their  backs.  These 
groups,  of  which  we  met  a large  number,  were  wild 
and  picturesque.  Their  peculiar  costume,  and  their 
swarthy  complexion,  strongly  reminded  me  of  the  North 
American  Indian.  The  sheep,  of  which  we  met  sev- 
eral large  flocks,  were  small  and  lean,  hardy  in  appear- 
ance, with  long  coarse  wool,  which  is  made  into  a shag- 
gy coarse  cloth,  worn  by  the  shepherds  and  other  peas- 
ants without  dyeing.  The  sheep  are  also  milked,  and 
the  butter  and  cheese  made  from  them  is  much  used  in 
the  country.  I have  tasted  the  butter,  which  is  pale, 
and  of  a vile  quality. 

December  6th.  I took  an  early  walk  through  the 
streets  of  Napoli,  and  along  the  quays.  Many  of  the 
houses  are  well  built  of  stone,  three  or  four  stories 
high.  Two  or  three  streets  are  of  respectable  width, 
but  the  rest  are  narrow,  inconvenient,  and  excessive- 
ly dirty.  Even  at  sunrise  in  the  winter,  the  stench 
was  offensive  enough,  and  in  the  summer  it  must 
be  intolerable,  and  pernicious  to  the  health  of  the 
city.  Napoli  has  long  been  distinguished  as  a sickly 
city.  The  plague  has  several  times  committed  great 
ravages,  and  autumnal  fevers  prevail  from  year  to 
year.  These  have  been  ascribed  to  the  vicinity  of  some 
marshes,  which  are,  however,  separated  from  the  city 
by  the  bay.  A more  probable,  and  of  itself  a suffi- 
cient cause,  is  the  filthiness  of  the  streets,  which,  under 
a less  powerful  sun,  might  be  expected  to  scourge  the 


120 


Napoli. 


population  with  diseases.  Ilcre,  where  there  is  hardly 
ever  a cold  day,  when  to  the  present  moment  the  foli- 
age has  not  been  discolored  by  winter,  and  flowers  arc 
in  full  bloom,  the  plague  and  all  its  family  of  maladies 
is  but  invited  by  such  criminal  and  universal  inatten- 
tion to  cleanliness. 

There  were  a few,  perhaps  a dozen  or  more,  small 
coasting  vessels  in  the  harbor,  which  is  very  well  shel- 
tered and  spacious,  though  of  no  great  depth.  Many 
retail  shops  make  some  display  of  cheap  wares  suited 
to  the  consumption  of  a poor  population,  but  there  is 
very  little  appearance  of  activity  or  extensive  business. 
The  trade  of  the  place  has  declined  since  the  seat  of 
government  was  transferred  to  Athens,  and  though 
Napoli  is  better  built  and  has  suffered  less  from  the 
revolution  than  perhaps  any  other  city  in  Greece,  it 
exhibits  the  same  neglected  appearance  and  tendency 
to  decline  which  I have  observed  elsewhere,  Athens 
only  excepted. 

With  every  advantage  of  situation,  its  trade  is  said 
to  have  fallen  off,  and  is  threatened  perhaps  with  still 
further  decline.  It  is  strongly  fortified  by  its  natural 
situation,  and  by  the  military  works  which  have  been 
thrown  up  by  its  successive  owners.  Its  princijial 
fortress  is  the  Palymede,  a mountain  which  rises  al- 
most perpendieularly,  on  all  sides  but  the  north-east,  to 
the  height  of  more  tlian  a thousand  feet  above  the  sea, 
which  washes  its  base.  The  city  is  itself  a regular 
fortress,  surrounded  by  a wall  and  ditch,  and  having 
within  a lofty  citadel ; but  this  citadel,  as  well  as  the 
town  and  harbor,  are  overlooked  and  perfectly  com- 


Commanding  Citadel. 


121 


manded  by  the  towering  Palymede,  which  rises  south 
of  the  town,  and  is  separated  only  by  the  fosse  and 
wall.  The  ascent  from  this  side  is  by  a long  flight  of 
stairs,  covered  with  arches  of  masonry. 

We  ascend  by  another  flight  of  almost  endless  steps, 
which  is  uncovered,  and  leads  with  many  zigzags  to 
the  summit.  The  labor  of  ascending  these  steps, 
which,  I think,, must  amount  to  a thousand,  is  oc- 
casioned by  their  bad  construction.  They  are  made  in 
many  places  of  small  stones,  many  of  which  are  loose 
or  displaced — ^they  are  placed  edgewise,  or,  if  horizon- 
tally, so  as  to  form  unequal  and  variously  inclined 
surfaces.  In  our  ascent  we  were  met  by  a company 
of  convicts,  preceded  and  followed  by  a strong  escort 
of  soldiers.  This  was  the  first  intimation  I had  that 
this  aerial  stronghold  is  a prison  as  well  as  a fortress. 
One  more  perfectly  secured  I have  not  seen.  When 
the  approaches  are  properly  guarded,  as  they  are  con- 
stantly by  sentinels,  escape  is  strictly  impossible  with- 
out wings. 

We  were  shown  into  the  workshops,  where  the  pris- 
oners are  employed  in  manufacturing  cotton  cloth.  In 
a second  building,  they  make  coats  and  shoes  for  the 
army.  This  seems  to  be  a part  of  the  system  lately 
introduced,  as  the  buildings  are  not  yet  complete. 
The  commandant,  who  seemed  much  interested  in  the 
processes,  and  to  whom  we  were  introduced  in  the 
workshops,  apologized  for  the  slender  scale  of  the 
manufactures,  and  said  it  was  but  a beginning.  He 
accompanied  us  through  the  fortress,  showing  and  ex- 
plaining all  in  the  most  obliging  manner.  The  forti- 

G 


4 


122 


Strong  Fortress. 


fications  were  mostly  constructed  by  tbe  Venetians, 
and  many  fine  pieces  of  ordnance  bear  tbe  arms  of 
that  republic.  Some  of  a very  large  size  were  cast 
nearly  two  centuries  ago.  They  do  not  seem  to  be 
impaired  by  time,  and  are  perfectly  fit  for  use. 

The  Turks  have  added  to  the  works  of  defence,  but 
the  style  of  their  workmanship  is  very  inferior  to  the 
Venetian,  though  of  a later  date.  The  different  bas- 
tions bear  the  names  of  the  heroes  of  ancient  Greece, 
Themistocles,  Aristides,  Miltiades,  &c.  The  garrison 
at  present  consists  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  men.  I 
should  think  two  or  three  hundred  necessary  to  man 
the  defences  completely.  The  whole  fortress,  strong 
by  nature  and  art,  seems  to  be  impregnable.  Certainly 
it  is  capable  of  being  made  so,  if  any  place  in  the  world 
is.  Its  immense  elevation  removes  it  quite  out  of  the 
reach  of  an  enemy’s  fire.  Its  batteries  command  every 
point  both  of  sea  and  land  within  gunshot.  Large  cis- 
terns are  constructed  in  different  parts  of  the  fortress, 
to  catch  and  preserve  the  rain-water,  which  is  the  only 
supply. 

The  view  from  this  place  is  extensive  and  beautiful, 
though  bounded  on  all  sides,  except  a very  narrow 
vista  into  the  Archipelago,  by  high  mountains.  Tay- 
getus  is  seen  in  the  distance  in  the  south-west,  covered 
with  snow.  Argos  and  a number  of  agricultural  vil- 
lages are  seen  to  the  north,  scattered  over  the  lovely 
and  fertile  Argive  plains. 

Having  ordered  a carriage  to  be  ready  at  the  hotel 
to  carry  us  to  Mycenae,  we  hastened  to  complete  our 
survey  and  take  leave,  but  the  polite  and  hospitable 


Oriental  Entertainment.  123 

commandant  would  compel  us  to  enter  liis  apartments, 
which  Avere  tastefully  furnished,  and  commanded  a 
most  enchanting  prospect. 

We  Averc  entertained  d la  Turqv£.  First,  along  pipe 
was  presented  to  each  of  us  in  succession,  to  take  a feAv 
AvFilfs,  the  commandant  in  his  turn  doing  the  same.  1 
liad  not  been  polluted  Avith  the  contact  of  cigar  or  pipe, 
I believe,  for  full  tAA^enty  years,  but  ventured  to  orien 
talize  for  once.  Then  coifee  Avas  introduced,  of  AAdiich 
each  of  us  Avas  presented  with  a small  cup,  AAuth  sugar, 
but  no  milk.  It  Avas  of  the  finest  quality.  We  then 
rose  and  took  leave.  Our  entertainer,  hoAvever,  led 
^frs.  C.  doAAUi  several  flights  of  stairs  to  a little  floAver- 
garden,  Avhich  Avas  neatly  laid  out  and  AA^ell  cultwated 
in  a nook  of  the  mountain,  and  after  presenting  her 
with  a bouquet,  bid  us  adieu,  leaving  us  with  the  most  fa- 
vorable impressions  of  his  politeness  and  good  feeling. 

We  parted  Avith  our  landlord  a few  minutes  later, 
bearing  Avith  us  less  agreeable  recollections.  Our  ac- 
commodalions  had  been  of  the  Avorst  sort — dirty  rooms, 
dirty  beds,  and,  in  spite  of  a change  made  at  our  ex- 
press invitation,  dirt}^  sheets.  For  these  accommoda- 
tions (two  beds)  and  for  a supper  of  soup  and  rice,  and 
a breakfast  of  mutton-chops  and  coffee,  he  charged  us 
fifty  drachmas.  After  a vain  attempt  to  obtain  some 
deduction  from  this  extravagant  bill,  we  paid  it  and 
left  him  A\nth  an  assurance  which  Ave  are  likely  to 
make  good,  of  not  favoring  him  again  Avith  our  custom. 

We  AA^ere  soon  in  our  carriage,  the  only  vehicle 
Avhich  Ave  had  seen  in  Greece  out  of  Athens.  It  A\ms 
draAvn  by  two  of  the  vilest  horses  AV^e  had  anyAvhere 


124 


Fine  E o a d . 


seen,  and  by  dint  of  good  humor  and  kind  words  to 
our  driver,  who  was  delighted  at  my  addressing  to  him 
some  words  of  aneient  Greek,  which  he  repeated  to  me 
in  the  proper  modern  pronuneiation,  we  rolled  along 
the  fine  road  towards  Argos,  with  a degree  of  rapidity 
and  comfort  which,  in  this  kingdom,  no  one  may  hope 
to  realize  who  does  not  happen  to  journey  upon  this 
same  highway  over  the  Argive  plain  on  the  eight  or 
ten  miles  of  good  road  in  Attica,  which  are  said  to 
constitute  the  whole  amount  of 'artificial  highway  be- 
tween Macedonia  and  Cape  Matapan.  I suppose  there 
is  not  a carriage  in  the  realm  of  King  Otho  beyond 
the  precincts  of  Athens  and  Napoli. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


TIRYNS  AND  MYCEN^. 

The  plaia  of  Argos,  celebrated  for  its  fertility,  both 
in  ancient  and  modern  times,  is  a beautiful  tract  of 
level  land,  extending  about  eight  or  ten  miles  from 
Napoli  to  Greece,  and  of  unequal  width,  ranging  from 
six  or  eight  to  not  more  than  three  or  live  miles.  It 
may  contain  sixty  square  miles  of  excellent  land — the 
best,  I think  it  is  reputed,  in  Greece, — fertile  in 
corn,  wheat,  vines,  tobacco,  and  vegetables.  It 
reaches  tht  bay  of  Napoli  on  the  south,  and  is  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  high  rocky  mountains,  bare  of 
verdure,  and  of  the  most  dreary  aspect.  They  have 
nearly  the  color  of  ashes.  A number  of  gray  craggy 
rocks,  and  several  conical  mountains  of  no  great  ex- 
tent, rise  upon  different  parts  of  the  plain,  without, 
however,  occupying  any  considerable  portion  of  its 
surface.  This  is  the  season  for  ploughing,  and  we  saw 
not  less  than  a hundred  yoke  of  oxen  at  work  on  this 
broad  field. 

At  about  two  miles  from  Napoli  are  the  ruins  of 
the  very  ancient  city  of  Tiryns.  Long  before  the 
Christian  era,  this  city  was,  as  it  now  is,  a heap  of  ruins 


126 


C Y C L O P I A N He  m a i k s. 


without  inhabitant.  From  the  solidity  of  the  struC" 
tureSy  and  the  massive  and  imperishable  materials  of 
'which  it  was  composed^  these  ruins  may  remain  other 
thousands  of  years,  and  excite  the  wonder  of  coming' 
generations^  These  remains^  which  are  of  the  class 
denominated  Cyclopian,  from  the  massiveness  of  the 
materials,  and  from  our  entire  ignorance  of  the  authors 
and  the  age  of  these  stupendous  productions  of  human 
art  and  industry,  consist  solely  of  an  enclosure,  two 
hundred  and  forty -four  yards  in  length  by  fifty-four  in 
breadth.  Tlic  enclosed  space  is  too  inconsiderable  for 
the  area  of  a city,  and  must,  therefore,  have  been  the 
citadel  only.  This  is  made  quite  certain  by  its  situa- 
tion. 

These  walls  arc  reared  upon  a mass  of  rock,  or  a 
small  mountain,  which  rises  from  the  plain  of  Argos, 
and  is  precisely  one  of  those  commanding  and  secure 
positions  which  the  Greeks  always  chose  as  ^he  nucleus 
of  a city.  In  the  early  days  of  this  people,  when  war 
and  the  dread  of  violence  were  the  most  common  pur- 
suit and  the  most  urgent  motive,  a proper  site  for  a 
citadel,  where  the  people  who  built  their  houses  around 
its  base  might  flee  for  protection  in  times  of  danger, 
Avas  an  object  of  the  greatest  importance, ' and  con- 
trolled, in  the  selection  of  a site  for  a new  town,  as 
completely  as  a good  harbor  does  in  these  days  of  com- 
merce. Such  a site  was  the  abrupt  rock,  commanding 
the  neighboring  country,  and  out  of  the  reach  of  any 
higher  eminence,  upon  which  the  ancient  walls  of  this 
venerable  citadel  now  stand. 

The  exterior  walls  of  the  city,  and  the  habitations  of 


Gateways. 


127 


men,  whicli  were  constructed  of  more  frail  materials, 
have  thousands  of  years  since  disappeared.  No  vestiges 
of  these,  not  even  a mound  to  puzzle  the  antiquary 
and  provoke  conjecture,  remain  at  the  present  time. 
Nothing  is  seen  but  the  citadel,  which  was  constructed 
for  their  security ; and  now  that  they  have  vanished 
from  the  world,  and  even  history  has  failed  to  make 
any  authentic  record  of  them,  this  serves  as  a peiqiet- 
ual  and  impressive  monument  of  their  high  civilization 
and  stupendous  energy. 

The  thickness  of  these  walls  is  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  feet.  The  highest  part  now  standing  is 
about  forty-five  feet.  It  is  evident,  however,  both 
from  the  appearance  of  the  wall  itself,  as  well  as  from 
the  mass  of  stone  that  lay  in  disorder  at  its  base,  that 
it  was  originally  much  higher,  not  less  these  data  would 
lead  us  to  conclude,  than  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  They 
are  not  perfectly  straight,  but  bend  a little,  to  follow 
the  direction  of  the  rocky  height  upon  which  they  are 
founded,  not,  however,  following  all  its  irregularities. 
There  are  two  gateways  still  remaining — one  small, 
and  still  entire,  the  other  partially  destroyed,  and  much 
larger, — both  very  peculiar  in  their  shape  and  con- 
struction. The  former  is  on  the  western  side,  looking 
towards  Argos.  It  is  pointed  at  the  top,  and  there  is 
a large  accumulation  of  rubbish  upon  its  threshold. 
It  is  now  nine  feet  in  height,  and  seven  feet  wide  at 
the  base.  The  other  is  fallen  in  at  the  top,  but  from 
what  remains,  is  presumed  to  be  of  a similar  form  with 
the  last.  It  looks  northward  to  the  mountains,  and 


1 


128  Huge  Stones. 

seems  to  have  been  a very  large  and  the  principal  en- 
trance to  the  citadel. 

The  most  singular  feature  of  them  is  the  great  size 
of  the  stones  of  which  they  are  built.  Some  of  them 
measure  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  length,  by  four  or  five 
feet  in  thickness,  with  an  equal  width.  Most  of  them 
are  from  four  to  five  feet  square.  They  are  rough  or 
unhewn.  They  are  laid  without  mortar  in  the  most 
solid  manner,  the  interstices  being  filled  up  with  small- 
er stones.  They  were  undoubtedly  quarried  at  no 
great  distance  from  their  present  situation,  and  are  of 
the  same  sort  as  the  neighboring  hills  and  mountains. 
But  the  wonder  is,  how  they  were  ever  raised  from 
their  native  bed,  and  transferred  to  their  present  posi- 
tion by  a people  reputed  to  have  been  ignorant  bar- 
barians, and  centuries  before  the  invention  of  those 
mechanical  contrivances,  upon  which  labors  much  less 
ponderous  and  difficult  are  now  dependent  for  their 
achievement.  It  is  this  difficulty  that  has  led  men  to 
ascribe  these  magnificent  works  to  a race  of  giants,  who 
peopled  the  earth  long  before  the  birth  of  authentic 
history. 

The  ruins  of  Mycenoe,  about  seven  miles  further 
south,  and  at  the  extremity  of  the  Argive  plain^  are  of 
the  same  class,  but  much  more  extensive,  and  con- 
structed of  still  more  gigantic  materials.  You  pass 
over  the  lower  hills  that  bound  the  plains  to  the  south- 
west. You  ascend  a mountain  of  no  great  elevation. 
The  next  ridge  before  you,  which  is  of  great  height, 
and  of  a waste,  savage,  bare  and  craggy  aspect,  opens, 
retreating  to  the  right  and  left,  giving  space  for  a broad 


M Y C E N 


129 


gap,  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  ridges.  In  the 
midst  of  this  gap  rises  a lofty,  nearly  conical  mount, 
abrupt  and  j^recipitous  on  all  sides.  On  the  summit 
of  this  mount  is  the  citadel  of  ancient  Mycenae,  the 
enemy  and  rival,  and  finally  the  prey  of  its  more  for- 
tunate neighbor,  Argos. 

The  history  of  Mycenae  and  Tiryns  is  little  known, 
as  they  were  destroyed  before  the  period  of  authentic 
annals  began.  They  were  prosperous  and  powerful  in 
the  days  of  the  Trojan  w'ar,  and  took  an  honorable  part 
in  that  enterprise.  We  do  not  hear  of  them  in  the 
more  known  periods  of  Grecian  annals,  except  as  de- 
serted, though  magnificent  ruins.  Such  they  were 
certainly  at  the  commencement  of  the  Christian  era, 
and  they  seem  in  the  second  century,  when  we  have  a 
description  of  them  by  Pausanias,  to  have  been  in 
nearly  their  present  state.  They  ate  believed  by  critics 
to  have  been  built  as  early  as  about  1800  years  before 
our  era  began. 

In  approaching  these  ruins  from  Napoli,  the  first  ob- 
ject that  engages  the  attention,  is  a magnificent  struc- 
ture, which  is,  with  the  exception  of  its  entrance,  en- 
tirely covered  with  earth.  A large  tumulus  rises  from 
the  side  of  the  last  ridge  which  you  descend  in  going 
to  the  citadel.  The  entrance  is  not  visible  until  you 
pass  the  tumulus  to  the  right,  when  a door  or  gate- 
way, which,  however,  has  no  appearance  of  having 
been  closed,  except  with  earth,  is  perceived  immedi- 
ately opposite  to  the  citadel,  looking  towards  it,  and 
distant  perhaps  eighty  rods.  The  approach  to  this  en- 
trance is  by  a passage  between  two  lofty  walls,  con- 

()* 


I 


130  Cyclopean  Remains. 

structed  of  liewn  stone,  of  vast  size  and  in  perfect  pres- 
ervation. The  earth  rises  to  the  top  of  these  walls 
on  the  outer  sides,  so  that  they  are  not  visible  until 
you  have  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  .passage.  It  is 
not  possible  to  determine  the  height  of  the  gateway, 
as  there  is  a large  accumulation  of  earth  and  rubbish, 
probably  several  yards  deep.  It  is  about  ten  feet  wide, 
measured  upon  the  surface  of  the  present  entrance,  and 
perhaps  fifteen  feet  high.  It  is  not  a parallelogram, 
but  grows  narrower  as  it  approaches  the  top. 

Immediately  above  the  door,  is  a triangular  window 
of  the  same  width  at  its  base  as  the  top  of  the  door, 
but  terminating  in  a point,  thus  forming  with  the  door 
a pointed  arch.  The  lintel  of  the  door  is  formed  by  a 
single  stone  extending  horizontally  across  the  passage, 
and  resting  upon  the  massive  walls.  The  sides  of  the 
door  are  of  gi'eat  depth,  forming  indeed  a passage  not 
so  wide  as  that  by  which  the  approach  is  made,  but 
five  or  six  yards  in  length.  This  is  covered  by  the 
lintel,  and  another  immense  slab  of  hewn  stone,  ex- 
tending from  the  lintel  to  the  interior  of  the  edifice, 
nearly  twenty  feet  in  width,  four  or  five  feet  thick,  and 
hardly  less  than  thirty  in  length.  It  reaches  far  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  doorway,  and  fprms  a jDart  of  the 
interior  wall. 

It  is  certainly  the  largest  mass  of  wrought  stone  I 
have  seen.  How  it  was  ever  raised  from  the  quarry, 
and  placed  in  its  present  position,  is  a question  which 
must  engage  every  observer,  and  probably  it  will  never 
be  solved.  The  interior  of  this  edifice  is  circular,  rising 
in  the  form  of  a cone  and  terminating  in  an  apex.  It 


Tomb  of  Agamemnok.  131 

is  about  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  built  of  buge 
blocks  of  hewn  stone,  without  cement.  The  whole  is 
in  good  preservation,  and  seems  likely  to  outlast  the 
most  solid  structures  of  the  present  age.  It  seems 
probable,  from  the  nails  which  are  found  in  the  walls, 
and  other  holes  in  the  stones  from-  which  the  nails 
have  fallen,  that  the  whole  interior  was  lined  with  me- 
tallic plates.  A door  nearly  filled  with  rubbish  leads 
from  this  large  apartment  into  another  of  an  oblong 
form,  about  eight  yards  in  length.  It  is  not  walled, 
but  merely  excavated  from  the  earth,  which  is  so  hard 
that  there  is  no  appearance  of  any  change  of  form  in 
the  room  since  it  was  made. 

There  are  thirty-four  ranges  of  stone  visible  in  the 
circular  room.  Many  more  seem  to  be  hid  by  the  ac- 
cumulations at  the  bottom.  In  passing  by  the  usual 
way  from  this  structure,  which  is  usually  called  the 
tomb  of  Agamemnon,  another  of  similar  construction, 
but  more  dilapidated,  and  nearly  filled  with  earth  and 
rubbish,  lies  close  to  the  path.  This,  too,  was  undoubt- 
edly the  tomb  of  some  distinguished  Grecian.  Others 
are  mentioned  by  books  of  travel,  but  I did  not  ob- 
serve them,  and  I examined  the  premises  with  some 
attention.  I presume  that  the  vestiges  are  much  less 
considerable. 

Upon  approaching  the  citadel,  the  first  object  that 
arrests  the  attention  is  a magnificent  gate  (no  doubt 
the  principal  entrance),  called  the  Gate  of  Lions.  It 
is  approached  like  the  door  to  the  tomb  of  Agamemnon, 
by  a passage  about  thirty  feet  wide.  The  walls  on 
either  liand  are  formed  of  hewn  stone  of  huge  dimen- 


132 


G-ate  of  Lions. 


sions,  and  in  imperfect  preservation.  The  gate  is 
nearly  filled  np  with  fallen  stones  and  rubbish.  There 
is  only  enough*  room  to  creep  under  its  lintel  into  the 
citadel.  The  gate  is  about  ten  feet  wide,  and  no  doubf 
widening  towards  the  bottom,  like  that  of  the  tomb. 
It  must,  to  maintain  the  proportions,  have  been  nearly 
twenty  feet  high.  The  lintel  is  fifteen  feet  long  by 
seven  broad  and  four  thick.  Above  the  gate  is  a tri- 
angular stone  eleven  feet  long  at  the  base  and  nine 
feet  high.  It  fills  a niche  in  the  wall,  and  has  sculp- 
tured upon  it  two  lions,  from  which  the  gate  takes  ifs 
name.  This  is  probably  one  of  the  oldest  specimens 
of  sculpture  in  the  world.  The  hinder  feet  of  the  lions 
rest  upon  the  base  of  the  triangular  stone,  just  above 
the  lintel  of  the  gate, — the  fore  feet  rest  upon  the  base 
of  a column  which  rises  between  the  lions  and  increases 
in  size  upwards.  The  lions  stand  nearly  erect,  facing 
each  other.  They  are  chiselled  in  high  relief,  their 
tails  not  bushy,  but  smaller  than  those  we  see  in  menag-^ 
eries.  The  heads  of  the  lions  are  broken  off,  but  the 
remaining  parts  are  entire,  and  one  is  astonished  to  see 
how  well  they  have  resisted  for  so  many  centuries  the 
influence  of  the  seasons.  The  stone  upon  which  they 
are  sculptured  is  a green  marble:  that  of  which  the 
walls  of  the  citadel  is  composed,  as  also  the  tomb  of 
Agamemnon  and  the  ruins  of  Tiryns,  is  a very  hard 
species  of  breccia  or  pudding-stone,  of  which  all  the 
mountains  of  this  part  of  Greece  are  chiefly  composed. 
There  is  another  gate  or  entrance  to  the  citadel  much 
smaller  than  the  gate  of  lions,  and  in  good  preserva- 
tion. 


The  Citadel. 


133 


The  walls  of  the  citadel  follow'  the  sinuosities  of 
the  rock  upon  which  it  is  built,  and  it  receives  from 
this  circumstance  a very  irregular  form.  It  is  more 
the  shape  of  a triangle  than  any  other  figure.  The 
walls  are  constructed  partly  of  hewn  stones  and  partly 
of  rough  polygons,  all  laid  up  without  mortar  or  cement 
of  any  kind.  The  interstices  between  the  polygons 
are  filled  up  with  smaller  stones.  The  citadel  is  sepa- 
rated from  a high  and  very  large  mountain,  which 
stands  very  near  it,  upon  the  north,  by  a deep  ravine, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  is  the  dry  bed  of  a rivulet. 
Over  this  a bridge  is  said  to  have  existed,  of  which  a 
portion  is  still  pointed  out.  I saw  nothing,  however, 
which  had  the  appearance  of  having  ever  formed  a 
part  of  a bridge,  and  I descended  nearly  to  the  bottom 
of  the  ravine,  to  examine  any  remains  that  might  have 
belonged  to  such  a structure.  Only  one  portion  of  the 
ruins  can,  with  any  semblance  of  probability,  be  re- 
garded as  having  been  connected  with  such  a structure. 
This  is  too  remote  from  the  bottom,  and  has  much 
more  the  appearance  of  a bastion.  It  is  built  upon  a 
projecting  part  of  the  rock,  is  a continuation  of  the 
wall,  and  I could  see  nothing  to  lead  to  the  supposition 
that  a bridge  had  existed  at  this  point,  except  the  fact 
that  this  is  the  nearest  point  to  the  opposite  mountain. 
That  mountain  is  precipitous, — almost  perpendicular. 
It  would  be  impossible  to  build  upon  it,  or  to  find  a 
square  yard  that  might  be  cultivated  for  a garden.  Ho 
enemy  could  occupy  it  for  the  purpose  of  annoyance, 
at  least  any  part  of  it  from  which  the  missiles  of  an- 
cient warfare  could  reach  the  citadel.  It  is  difficult. 


184 


W A li  L S OF  THE  C I T A D E L . 

tlierefore,  to  conceive  any  motive  for  erecting  a 
bridge. 

Several  parts  of  the  vail  now  standing  are  perhaps 
forty  feet  in  height,  but  these  masses  of  stone  lying  in 
disorder  at  the  base,  have  fallen  from  the  top,  and  di- 
minished the  height,  which  was  probably  not  less  than 
sixty  or  seventy  feet.  When  it  is  considered  that  the 
walls  everywhere  rest  upon  a rock  of  great  elevation, 
some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  strength  of  this  an- 
cient fortress.  I think  the  wall  is  nowhere  less  than 
twenty  feet  thick.  It  is  in  several  parts  much  more. 
It  is  all  constructed  of  huge  stones,  of  which  an  old 
writer  has  said,  “ two  mules  could  not  draw  one.” 

In  front  of  the  gate  of  lions  is  an  open  space  of  con- 
siderable extent,  paved  and  possessing,  it  is  probable, 
other  ornaments  beside  the  sculptured  lions,  v/here, 
according  to  the  custom  of  primitive  times,  courts  and 
markets  were  held,  and  public  business  generally 
transacted.  The  walls  of  the  citadel  project  so  far  as 
to  form,  outside  of  the  gate,  a large  oblong  space,  well 
fitted,  and  no  doubt  used  for  such  occasions.  Such 
were  probably  the  “ void  places”  at  the  entrance  of  the 
cities  of  the  Israelites,  where  the  prophets,  on  great 
and  solemn  occasions,  delivered  their  messages  before 
kings — where  Boaz  gave  public  notice  to  the  kinsman 
of  Euth  of  his  intention  to  redeem  the  inheritance  of 
lier  family.  If  so,  this  ancient  citadel  affords  a strik- 
ing illustration  of  the  customs  frequently  referred  to 
in  the  Bible,  and  proves  that  other  primitive  nations 
had  the  same  usages. 

The  ruins  of  this  once  powerful  city,  recalled  to  jny 


Illustrations  of  Prophecy.  135 

mind  tlie  proplietic  denunciations  contained  in  the 
Holy  Scriptures  against  Nineveh,  Babylon,  Tyre  and 
other  great  cities,  devoted  by  divine  justice  to  perpet- 
ual desolation.  Several  small  patches  upon  the  top 
of  this  lofty  citadel,  once  covered  with  human  habita- 
tions and  with  splendid  temples  and  palaces,  are  now 
ploughed  and  sown.  The  peasant  and  his  hardy  beast 
clamber  up  the  precipitous  rock  and  over  the  piles  of 
ruins,  by  paths  hardly  practicable  for  pedestrians  not 
accustomed  to  mountain  steeps.  I was  also  strongly 
reminded  of  another  figure  by  which  the  prophetic 
writers  mark  the  utter  ruin  and  devastation  of  the 
most  populous  and  proud  of  human  dwelling-places. 
I was  clambering  along  the  fragments  of  the  Cyclo- 
pean wall  and  the  crags  of  the  original  mount  which 
overhang  the  deep  and  savage  gorge,  in  search  of  the 
remains  of  the  bridge,  said  to  exist  there.  My  eye 
was  resting  upon  what  has  been  taken  for  the  abut- 
ment of  the  bridge,  but  which  I regard  only  as  a bas- 
tion, when  a fox,  roused  by  the  sound  of  footsteps 
approaching  so  near  his  desolate  habitation,  started 
from  his  hole  under  the  mass  of  ruins,  and  after  fixing 
his  gaze  upon  us  for  a moment,  bounded  down  the 
precipice,  and  disappeared  in  the  depth  of  the  ravine. 

I looked  upon  these  magnificent  remains  of  former 
days,  with  a deep  and  peculiar  interest.  Here  was  a 
city  that  had  seen  a career  of  prosperity  before  the  an- 
nals of  authentic  history  began.  I looked  upon  speci- 
mens of  fortification,  architecture,  and  sculpture,  which 
have  existed  nearly  a thousand  years.  Here  was  the 
tomb  of  the  hero  who  led  Greece  to  the  conquest  of 


136 


Hoary  Antiquity. 


Troy.  Ancient  authors  saw  Mycenae  two  thousand 
years  ago  as  I saw  it  }'esterday,  in  ruins  and  uninhab- 
ited. They,  like  visitors  of  the  present  day,  were 
filled  with  astonishment  at  its  stupendous  and  imper- 
ishable structures,  and  felt  a kind  of  religious  awe  for 
a race  of  men,  who  were  capable  of  undertakings  sur- 
passing in  massiveness  and  durability  all  that  has  been 
accomplished  by  their  successors.  Were  they  civil- 
ized and  scientific  ? Or  were  they  of  a race  possessing 
physical  poAvers  so  vastly  superior  to  ours  ? Who  can 
ansAver  these  inquiries  ? In  the  meantime,  Tiryns  and 
Mycenae  are  likely  to  exist  Avith  little  change  for  thou- 
sands of  years  more  to  provoke  the  same  inquiries,  and 
to  check  the  scepticism  and  humble  the  pride  of  neAV 
races  of  men,  Avho,  like  us,  may  be  disposed  to  cherish 
too  little  respect  for  those  who  have  occupied  the  stage 
of  life  before  them,  and  to  claim  for  themselves  a de- 
cided superiority  in  all  that  pertains  to  the  arts  and 
improvements  of  life. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


ARGOS  AND  CORINTH. 

V-  ' 

Dec.  7th.  We  returned  from  Mycenm  to  Argos 
after  dark,  crossing  the  dry  bed  of  the  Inachus  several 
times  as  we  approached  the  latter  place.  We  found 
lodgings,  as  usual,  upon  the  second  floor  of  a coffee- 
house, dirty,  open  and  cheerless,  but  such  as  we  ex- 
pected, and  we  were  therefore  satisfied.  This  is  mar- 
ket-day, and  the  little  town  was  thronged  with  peasants 
and  loaded  donkeys  at  an  early  hour.  It  gave  us  a 
very  favorable  opportunity  of  seeing  the  people  of  the 
Argive  plain.  We  had  evidence  of  the  fertility  of  this 
region,  reputed  the  best  land  in  Greece,  in  the  abun- 
dance of  grain,  fine  turnips,  parsnips,  cabbages  and 
onions,  with  which  the  streets  were  filled.  The  market 
is  held  in  the  open  air  here,  as  everywhere  else  in 
Greece.  The  costumes  of  the  peasants  made  a very 
picturesque  appearance.  All  wore  the  high  red  cap. 
The  tunic,  trowsers,  and  leggings,  were  of  a coarse 
woollen  stuff,  made  in  the  country,  of  undyed  wool. 

The  morning  was  rainy  and  cold,  so  that  most  of 
them  wore  the  capote  of  dingy  brown,  coarse  and 
shaggy  stuff,  said  to  be  proof  against  rain.  They 


138 


Argos. 


have  almost  always  some  glaring  ornament  upon  the 
head  or  other  part-some  gorgeous  needle-work  in 
bright  red,  which,  seen  at  a little  distance,  appears 
ornamental.  Argos  is  built  upon  level  ground,  near 
the  western  edge  of  the  plain  which  bears  its  name. 
Immediately  west  of  it  rises  the  mountain,  upon  which 
stands  the  citadel.  It  is  of  great  elevation,  and  might 
be  made  a fortress  of  great  strength,  though  the  prox- 
imity and  more  important  situation  of  Napoli  render 
it  unnecessary,  as  far  as  the  general  defence  is  con- 
cerned. Upon  the  south-east  side  of  this  hill  arc  the 
ruins  of  a large  theatre.' 

The  stone  seats,  rising  one  above  another  around  the 
stage  in  a semi-circular  form,  are  many  of  them  still 
in  their  original  position.  Like  the  other  theatres  in 
Greece,  the  performanees  were  in  the  open  air.  The 
-site  is  elevated,  and  commands  a noble  view.  There 
are  no  other  ruins  in  Argos  of  any  importance.  Some 
fragments  of  an  ancient  wall  remain  upon  the  Acropo- 
lis— at  least  so  we  were  told.  Nothing  has  been  dis- 
covered of  the  splendid  ancient  temples  which  arc 
known  to  have  existed  at  the  commencement  of  the 
Christian  era. 

The  present  town  has  a population  variously  esti- 
mated at  from  five  to  six  thousand  inhabitants.  They 
are  mostly  employed  in  agriculture.  The  climate  is 
insalubrious.  Fevers  prevail  in  summer  and  autumn, 
and  the  people  are  many  of  them  pale  and  sickly  in 
appearance.  A few  of  the  houses  are  well  built  of 
stone,  but  nearly  the  whole  town  is  built  of  sun-baked 
bricks,  or  of  cobble-stones  laid  up  in  mud.  The  roolh 


The  Ancient  Gkeees.  139 

upon  the  chief  streets  project,  and  are  supported  bj 
rough  posts,  forming  a kind  of  arcade  or  shed  for  the 
exhibition  of  merchandise.  Everything  has  the  most 
rude  and  clumsy  appearance.  Haste  and  cheapness 
seem  to  have  been  the  only  considerations  that  pre- 
vailed in  their  erection. 

Argos  is  about  four  miles  from  Napoli,  three  from 
Tiryus,  and  six  from  Mycenae.  It  is  known  to  have 
been  the  conqueror  of  the  two  latter  places,  and  to 
have  incorporated  their  inhabitants  with  its  own  pop- 
ulation. It  gives  one  a striking  idea  of  the  state  of 
ancient  Greece  to  see  three  rival  and  independent  cities 
within  an  hour’s  ride  of  each  other.  These  are  states 
which  made  Avars,  and  acted  important  parts  in  human 
affairs.  Certainly  such  states  could  only  have  been 
powerful  and  important  relatively  to  each  other. 
Greece  herself  OAved  her  pow'er  and  political  influence 
TO  the  uncivilized  state  of  other  nations.  She  Avould 
have  cut  a sorry  figure  in  the  modem  system  of 
European  politics.  These  are  conclusions  forced  upon 
the  mind  by  a consideration  of  the  small  extent  of  the 
country,  weakened  still  more  by  its  division  into  2:>etty 
sovereignties.  It  is  this  very  circumstance  that  gives 
the  highest  idea  of  the  genius  and  intellect  of  a people 
Avho  achieved  so  much  upon  the  theatre  of  human 
events,  and  have  the  high  honor  of  being  the  teachers 
and  civilizers  of  the  world. 

We  set  off  before  10  A.  M.  for  Corinth.  It  Avas 
rainy,  and  a heavy  wind,  Avhich  increased  as  Ave  ad- 
vanced, bleAv  directly  in  our  faces.  I never  made  a 
more  disagreeable  journey.  After  leaving  the  Argive 


140 


Temple  of  Nemea. 


plain,  we  entered  the  mountain  region,  consisting  of 
high,  savage  and  bare  ridges  of  breccia.  After  a ride 
of  two  hours  and  a half,  we  arrived  at  the  pass  of  Der- 
venaki, — the  Thermopylae  of  the  late  Greek  revolu- 
tion, where  a small  body  of  Greeks,  stationed  upon  a 
mountain  which  commanded  the  only  road  from  Cor- 
inth to  ISTapoli,  destroyed  a large  body  of  Turkish 
troops — an  event  of  great  and  decisive  importance  in 
the  history  of  that  struggle. 

From  this  point  we  made  a detour  to  the  vale  of 
Nemea,  to  view  the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  the  Nemean 
Jupiter,  and  the  theatre  of  some  of  the  fabulous  or  real 
exploits  of  Hercules.  The  vale  is  perhaps  three  miles 
in  length,  by  one  or  one  and  a half  wide.  It  is  mostly 
uncultivated,  and  bare  of  trees,  though  once  a forest 
which  furnished  Hercules  with  his  club — the  potent 
weapon  with  which  he  slew  the  Nemean  lion  and  other 
monsters.  The  ruins  of  the  temple  are  beautiful  and  in- 
teresting. Only  three  columns  of  this  once  magnificent 
temple  are  now  standing.  Two  of  them  support  an 
architrave  of  the  Doric  order,  four  and  a half  feet  in 
diameter,  and  said  to  be  thirty-two  feet  high. 

It  is  easy  to  trace  the  outlines  and  extent  of  the 
temple  in  its  perfect  state,  when  it  had  fourteen  col- 
umns on  each  side.  They  seem  not  to  have  been  de- 
molished, like  many  other  noble  monuments  of  the 
arts,  by  the  hands  of  Vandal  men,  but  to  have  fallen  by 
an  earthquake,  or  some  other  great  convulsion.  This 
is  apparent  from  the  position  of  the  ruins,  no  part  of 
which  seems  to  have  been  removed.  The  materials 
are  a soft  stone,  composed  of  sand-shells  and  pebbles. 


Mountain  Passes. 


141 


Not  far  from  this  temple  are  the  ruins  of  another 
smaller  building;  fragments  of  fluted  columns  are 
seen  on  all  sides,  and  it  is  probable  that  these  are  the 
remains  of  another  ancient  temple.  Still  farther  on 
the  road  bj  which  we  returned  to  the  main  route  to 
Corinth,  is  the  fountain  of  Nemea,  which  still  gives  an 
abundant  supply  of  pure  water.  The  fountain  is  a 
modern  structure. 

After  leaving  the  fountain,  the  road  leads  over  a 
mountain  of  no  great  height,  but  forming  one  of  the 
most  difficult  passes  for  a horse  that  I had  yet  at- 
tempted. The  path  is  in  some  parts  worn  deep  into 
the  rock,  and  scarcely  six  inches  wide.  In  other 
places  the  descent  is  steep,  and  the  animal  was  obliged 
to  reach  down  a great  distance  to  obtain  foothold. 
These  diJB5culties  were  increased  by  the  sinuosities  of 
the  road,  which  made  it  necessary  to  shift  the  direction 
suddenly  to  the  right  or  left,  often  upon  steep  decliv- 
ities. These  sagacious  animals  had  then  an  oppor- 
tunity to  show  their ' good  qualities,  and  so  perfectly 
did  they  understand  the  roads  of  this  region,  that 
they  carried  us  over  in  safety.  Upon  an  even  sur- 
face they  frequently  stumbled,  but  upon  the  more  dif- 
ficult and  precipitous  parts  of  the  route,  they  seemed 
to  be  sensible  of  the  necessity  of  using  greater  caution, 
and  seldom  made  a misstep. 

On  approaching  within  two  hours  of  Corinth,  the 
country  assumes  a new  appearance.  Instead  of  moun- 
tains of  bare  bleak  rocks,  are  immense  sand-hills,  which 
have  the  appearance  of  having  been  blown  up  from  the 
Gulf  of  Lepanto,  which  begins  to  be  seen  through  the 


142 


Corinth. 


ravines  or  from  the  tops  of  the  hills.  The  valleys  are 
washed  by  the  rains  into  deep  gullies,  often  with  the 
sides  joerfectly  perpendicular  to  the  height  of  twenty 
or  thirty  feet,  and  conformed  to  each  other  with  the 
regularity  of  two  parallel  walls  through  several  sinu- 
osities. A meagre  vegetation  of  shrubs  covers  the 
tops  of  these  hills  of  sand,  but  the  sides  are  often  bare, 
and  exhibit  the  appearance  of  having  fallen  off  in  large 
masses,  through  the  agency  of  rain  or  other  causes. 

These  sandy  elevations,  with  occasional  ledges  of 
rock,  continue  till  we  enter  the  plain  of  Corinth,  which 
is  a tract  of  level  country  from  one  to  two  or  three 
miles  wide,  extending  for  ten  or  twelve  miles  along 
the  shore  of  the  gulf,  which  is  here  narrow.  On  the 
opposite  shore,  a rugged  high  mountain  rises  from  the 
water’s  edge.  There  are  olive  plantations  of  consider- 
able extent  upon  this  plain.  Large  portions  are  un- 
cultivated, and  it  is  not  fertile.  The  olive  trees  are 
smaller  than  those  of  Attica. 

Corinth  has  a beautiful  situation  between  the  gulf, 
from  which  it  is  a mile  and  a half  distant,  and  the 
Acropolis,  to  whose  base  it  approaches  very  near. 
The  descent  is  gradual,  affording  the  best  possible  fa- 
cilities for  a town,  easily  drained,  and  yet  not  incon- 
veniently hilly.  A few  of  the  houses  arc  substantially 
built  of  stone,  the  most  arc  mud  cottages.  The  popu- 
lation is  twelve  hundred.  It  must  have  been  much 
larger  before  the  revolution,  judging  from  the  ruined 
houses,  which  here  as  everywhere  else  in  Greece,  attest 
the  barbarous  spirit  in  which  that  fierce  contest  was 
waged.  The  Acropolis  is  naturally  one  of  the  strong- 


143 


Temple  of  Neptune. 

/ 

est  places  in  Greece,  and,  commanding  as  it  does  tlic 
isthmus,  which  unites  the  Morea  to  the  continent,  it 
must  ever  possess  great  importance  as  a place  of  de- 
fence. A single  temple  of  all  the  splendid  structures 
which  adorned  ancient  Corinth,  the  most  opulent  and 
luxurious  town  of  Greece,  now  remains,  or  rather  seven 
columns  remain  to  show  where  a magnificent  temple 
of  Neptune  once  stood.  It  is  known  that  all  the  mag- 
nificent structures  of  Corinth  were  destroyed  by  Mum- 
mius,  who  disgraced  the  Eoman  name  by  his  barbarous 
destruction  of  this  noble  city.  The  city  was  subse- 
quently rebuilt,  and  again  destroyed  by  the  barbari- 
ans. It  has  since  suffered  greatly  by  war,  as  from  its 
position  it  must  ever  be  an  important  point  in  any  sys- 
tem of  offensive  or  defensive  operations  in  Greece. 

We  found  the  only  two  khans,  or  inns,  which  this 
little  town  possesses,  already  occupied,  and  we  were 
refused  a place  to  lay  down  our  beds.  Having  a letter 
from  the  Kev.  Mr.  Hill  to  the  governor  of  this  prpv- 
ince,  who  resides  in  Corinth,  we  sent  our  dragoman  to 
his  excellency,  to  inquire  if  there  was  a prospect  of 
finding  lodgings  in  his  capital.  He  returned  with  our 
messenger,  took  us  to  his  house,  and  entertained  us 
with  a hospitality  and  urbanity  not  soon  to  be  forgot- 
ten. He  is  a gentleman  of  education  and  intelligence, 
speaks  English  well,  and  is  full  of  information,  as  well 
as  patriotic  in  all  that  concerns  his  reviving  country. 
He  served  in  the  navy  during  the  war,  and  has  since 
held  important  posts  under  the  government. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


THE  ISTHMUS. — AFFAIRS  OF  GREECE. 

December  9th.  This  morning  (Monday)  we  set  off 
a little  after  nine  to  embark  at  the  port  of  Lechceum 
for  Salona.  We  passed  through  the  plain  which  con- 
tinues for  a considerable  distance  in  this  direction, 
until  it  is  gradually  lost  in  a barren  waste  of  sand  and 
covered  with  low  shrubs.  We  passed  by  the  remains 
of  two  canals,  begun  by  the  ancients  across  the  isth- 
mus. The  Venetian  wall,  also,  comes  to  the  gulf  of 
Lcpanto,  between  Corinth  and  our  place  of  embarka- 
tion. The  isthmus  is  here  only  six  miles  wide.  The 
ridge  which  runs  along  between  the  two  seas,  is  of  no 
great  elevation,  and  might  probably  be  canalled  with- 
out enormous  expense. 

There  are  two.  traditions  with  regard  to  the  causes 
that  led  to  the  abandonment  of  the  attempt  made  by 
the  ancients.  In  one  instance,  it  is  said,  their  progress 
was  stopped  by  a hard  rock  which  they  were  unable 
to  excavate.  Before  modern  skill  and  enterprise,  the 
mountain  referred  to  above  would  soon  yield,  even  if 
it  consisted  of  flint.  The  first  attempt  was  abandoned, 
because  it  was  ascertained  that  the  water  in  the  Ar- 


Canal  across  the  Isthmus,  in, 


cbipelago  is  higher  than  in  the  gulf  of  Corinth — a dif- 
ficulty which,  if  it  really  did  exist,  would  easily  be  rem- 
edied by  locks. 

The  Greeks  and  Eomans  had  little  skill  for  civil  en- 
gineering. We  were  told  by  the  governor  that  an  ex- 
amination has  been  made  by  a competent  engineer, 
who  reports  that  the  communication  is  practicable,  and 
may  be  effected  at  no  greater  expense  than  twelve  mil- 
lions of  francs.  This  amount  puts  the  enterprise,  at 
present,  beyond  the  resources  of  Greece,  and  perhaps 
the  commerce  of  a country  so  poor  and  reduced  would 
not  be  sufficient  to  maintain  a canal  and  pay  the  inter- 
est of  the  investment.  Certainly  it  would  give  great 
facility  of  intercourse  between  the  nations  of  Western 
Europe  and  the  Levant,  and  should  Greece  rise  again 
to  wealth  and  commercial  prosperity,  this  will  be  one 
of  the  earliest  enterprises  to  which  the  attention  of  hei 
government  and  capitalists  will  be  directed. 

The  navigation  around  the  Morea  is  tedious  and 
dangerous.  It  is  really  the  greatest  obstacle  to  visiting 
Greece.  The  way  from  Patras  to  Athens,  laid  open  by 
such  an  improvement,  would  be  performed  in  one-third 
of  the  time  now  occupied  in  going  around  Cape  Mata- 
pan,  and  with  an  exemption  from  a multitude  of  risks 
and  discomforts. 

The  hospitable  governor  accompanied  us  to  the 
point  of  embarkation,  a ride  of  two  hours  and  a half, 
and  by  his  interference  shortened  the  delays  by  which 
the  smaller  functionaries  of  Greece,  as  well  as  those  of 
the  older  absolute  governments,  contrive  to  embarrass 
a stranger,  and,  I believe,  their  fellow-subjects  also, 

7 


146  The  Bavarian  Kegency, 


whenever  they  have  an  opportunity  to  exercise  the 
faint  emanation  of  royal  power  which  rests  upon  them. 
W e had  much  reason  to  be  grateful  to  this  hospitable 
and  worthy  man.  He  gave  us  much  information  with 
regard  to  the  affairs  of  Greece^  past  and  present.  Though 
the  agent  of  an  unlimited  and  despotic  power,  he  is  a 
decided  liberal,  and  such,  I have  reason  to  believe,  are 
all  the  Greek  authorities,  though  too  many  of  them 
are  restrained  by  their  poverty  and  dependence  upon 
royal  favor  from  exercising  a valuable  influence  in  fa- 
vor of  free  institutions.  To  them,  however,  they  all 
look  forward  as  a blessing  which  cannot  long  be  with- 
liolden  from  a gallant  people. 

They  wait,  though  not  very  patiently,,  till  the  peo- 
ple, so  long  inured  to*  anarchy  and  misrule,  become  a 
little  accustomed  to  the  operation  of  laws, — till  landed 
proprietors,  now  poor,  for  the  want  of  capital  to  culti- 
vate their  estates,  shall  have  acquired  a little  indepen- 
dence ; and  till  King  Otho  shall  have  the  benefit  of 
more  age  and  experience  to  enable  him  to  see  that  his 
honor  and  interest  will  best  be  promoted  by  identifying 
himself  fully  with  his  people,  and  by  ruling  them  in 
sympathy  with  the  hopes  with  which  they  called  him 
to  his  throne,  and  with  the  pledges  given  in  his  behalf 
when  the  Bavarian  regency  entered  upon  the  govern- 
ment during  his  minority.  That  regency  flagrantly 
violated  all  its  pledges,  and  all  Greeks  feel  a lively 
hatred  towards  the  whole  race,  the  king  only  except- 
ed. They  treated  the  brave  nation  as  a conquered  peo- 
ple. They  possessed  themselves  of  the  most  valuable 
offices,  civil  and  military.  They  had  ten  thousand 


The  Municipal  System.  147 

troops  of  their  countrymen,  whilst  the  veterauif  who 
had  waged  war  with  the  Turks  so  heroically,  were  dis- 
banded without  any  substantial  reward,  or  even  provis- 
ion for  their  immediate  wants.  The  indignation  of 
the  people  was  roused.  Acts  of  violence  were  com- 
mitted upon  the  intruders  in  different  parts  of  Greece, 
and  certainly  scenes  of  blood  would  have  ensued  had 
not  .the  government  dismissed  the  mercenaries. 

Only  a few  Bavarian  soldiers  are  now  to  be  found  in 
the  army,  which  is  recruited  with  natives.  A large 
proportion  of  officers  remain,  but  they  are  gradually 
leaving  the  country.  The  minister  of  war  and  one 
judge  only  occupy  high  stations.  Several  of  the  pro- 
fessors of  the  university  too  are  Germans.  Not  more, 
perhaps,  remain  than  the  public  service  demands. 
Their  superior  science  would  qualify  them  to  do  im- 
portant service  in  a country  which  is  so  destitute  of 
educated  men,  had  not  their  presumption  and  avarice 
made  them  odious.  It  is  said  that  the  King  of  Bavaria, 
whose  influence  made  the  selection  of  the  higher  func- 
tionaries, did  not  select  able  men.  True  or  false,  that 
is  the  opinion  of  the  Greeks,  who  feel  themselves  in- 
sulted by  this  instance  of  bad  faith,  no  less  than  in- 
jured by  the  whole  system  of  administration,  and 
that  sovereign  is  the  object  of  much  dislike. 

The  municipal  system  of  France  has  been  substan- 
tially introduced  into  this  country.  The  system  of  the 
Turks  was  so  bad,  that  it  is  said  nothing  of  it  has 
been  retained;  though,  from  a multitude  of  difficul- 
ties which  are  met  with  in  bringing  a nation  under 
an  entire  new  code,  and  in  abrogating  altogether  the 


148  Gulf  of  Lepanto. 

laws  under  which  they  have  lived  for  centuries,  the 
work  of  transition  is  but  very  partially  accomplished. 
In  the  large  towns,  much  better  success  has  attended 
the  attemjDt,  than  in  the  remote  villages  and  among 
the  mountain  population.  It  must  be  the  work  of 
years  to  complete  the  transformation. 

AYe  embarked  at  the  port,  Lechoeum,  a place  of  only 
three  or  four  cottages,  with  the  ruins  of  some  forty 
more  built  by  refugees  from  Turkish  cruelty.  There 
were  four  decked-boats  in  the  harbor,  which  is  the  ex- 
treme eastern  point  of  the  gulf  of  Lepanto.  AY e hired 
one  for  thirty  drachmas  to  carry  us  to  Scala,  a distance, 
as  we  were  told,  of  .thirty  miles.  The  other  boatmen, 
who  demanded  sixty  and  fifty  drachmas,  used  loud  and 
angry  words  towards  our  padrone,  for  having  underbid 
them,  and  so  deprived  them  of  a good  opportunity 
of  imposing  upon  strangers.  Ilere  we  took  leave  of 
our  kind  entertainer,  who  gave  us  letters  to  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Salona  and  other  authorities  on  our  route. 

Oar  crew  consisted  of  four  men,  who  were  barely 
suflicient  for  the  management  of  the  boat.  AYe  made 
half  the  distance  with  high  spirits.  The  wind  was  fa- 
vorable and  the  sea  calm.  AYc  sailed  about  noon.  At 
two  o’clock  the  wind  changed.  Subsequently  we  had 
calms,  relieved  now  and  then  by  light  breezes.  From 
two  o’clock  till  dark  we  made  no  perceptible  pro- 
gress. AYe  were  finally  compelled  to  spread  our  quilts 
upon  the  grated  floor  of  our  low  cabin,  and  lie  down 
for  the  night.  AYe  arrived  at  Scala  some  time  between 
twelve  and  six  o’clock  in  the  morning.  The  coast  of 


Sc  ALA. 


149 


the  gulf  of  Lepanto,  which  we  passed  by  daylight,  and 
indeed  the  Avhole  shore  from  Lechoeum  to  far  beyond 
the  bay  of  Salona,  which  was  visible  enough  during 
the  early  j^art  of  the  voyage,  is  abrupt  and  bare  ; it  is 
indeed  a high  mountain  without  any  arable  fields  or 
verdure.  On  the  left,  the  bay  is  bordered  by  a more 
variegated  and  hospitable  region.  The  level  ground 
continues  for  at  least  eight  or  ten  miles.  The  country 
then  becomes  hilly  and  mountainous,  but  it  is  culti- 
vated, and  the  neighborhood  of  the  ancient  Sicyon  is 
fertile  in  currants. 

Dec.  10th.  The  harbor  of  Scala,  in  which  we  found 
ourselves  at  anchor  this  morning,  is  a small  but  well 
sheltered  bay,  having  apparently  no  great  depth  of 
water.  We  landed  in  a small  boat,  which,  however, 
could  not  reach  the  shore.  We  stopped  to  procure 
breakfast  and  engage  horses  in  a khan,  as  it  was  called, 
but  which  was  entirely  open  in  front  and  without 
floor,  and  was  occupied  as  a coffee-house,  market,  and 
baker’s  shop.  Several  men  were  employed  in  mould- 
ing black  bread,  and  several  bushels  of  the  bread,  per- 
fectly dry,  lay  on  an  elevated  platform  at  one  side  of 
the  room.  It  was  designed,  I understood,  for  sailors, 
many  of  whom  frequent  this  port,  though  not  more 
than  a dozen  small  vessels,  or  rather  boats,  were  in 
the  harbor,  and  the  village  has  not  more  than  eight  or 
ten  houses.  We  saw  a caravan  of  a dozen  camels  here 
employed  in  the  transportation  of  merchandise  and 
produce,  between  this  port  and  the  interior.  After 
rather  more  than  the  usual  amount  of  higgling  and 


150 


Sc  ALA. 


wrangling,  wliich  Demetrius  fortunately  transacts  for 
us,  we  obtained  decidedly  the  worst  horses  which  have 
yet  fallen  to  our  lot  in  Greece,  and  got  under  way  for 
Delphos  a little  after  9 A.  M. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


DELPHOS. 

The  road  led  us  through  a beautiful  and  fertile  plain 
of  no  great  breadth,  but  said  to  be  ten  miles  in  length 
from  Salona,  which  was  six  miles  to  our  left  on  our  way 
to  Scala  and  to  Delphos.  We  passed  through  a beau- 
tiful and  extensive' olive-yard,  two  miles. from  Scala. 
Another  still  more  extensive  lay  at  our  left,  extending 
far  towards  Salona.  As  we  looked  back  from  the 
lofty  hill  which  we  mounted,  in  approaching  Krisso,  a 
most  lovely  view  was  spread  out  before  us.  On  the 
right  was  the  valley  before  referred  to,  reaching  to  Sa- 
lona, and  nearly  to  that  town,  verdant  with  luxuriant 
olive-trees, — then  the  town,  built  upon  the  declivity 
of  the  mountain,  in  a most  conspicuous  and  delightful 
situation. 

Beyond  the  town  was  a scanty  verdure,  which,  how- 
ever, gave  a varied  and  cheerful  air  to  the  back-ground 
in  keeping  with  the  lovely  plain  below.  Higher  up 
the  mountain  was  a bleak  bare  rock,  like  the  most  we 
have  seen  in  this  country.  Finally,  the  top  was  cov- 
ered with  snow,  which  glistened  in  the  sun  with  very 
peculiar  lustre.  The  whole  valley  was  surrounded 


152 


Wild  Eoute. 


witli  mountains  of  majestic  height.  Upon  our  left,  or 
rather  before  us,  lay  the  beautiful  vale  through  which 
we  had  just  passed,  Scala  and  the  gulf  of  Salona,  Gal- 
axidi,  which  occupies  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  and 
ranges  of  mountains  which  bound  the  horizon. 

The  village  of  Krisso  has  apparently  about  a hun- 
dred and  fifty  houses,  built  of  huge  bricks  dried,  in  the 
sun — mere  mud  walls,  which,  in  America,  would  not 
resist  the  climate  for  a year.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
foul,  and  precipitous.  From  this  village,  our  journey 
of  nearly  two  hours  to  Delphos,  was  one  high  rocky 
mountain,  as  rough  and  savage  a road  as  could  be  de- 
sired. Our  horses,  bad  as  they  were,  kept  their  feet 
admirably.  To  the  right  of  this  wild  and  hazardous 
route,  and  not  much  less  than  a thousand  feet  below 
it,  is  a deep  ravine — the  bed,  nearly  dry,  of  the  river 
Pleistus,  which  receives  at  Delphos  the  water  of  the 
Castalian  fountain.  Beyond  this  stream  the  Kirphis 
rises  suddenly — a lofty  and  almost  precipitous  moun- 
tain of  perfeexly  bare  rock.  Along  the  Pleistus,  the 
valley  which  joins  that  of  Salona,  near  Krisso,  contin- 
ues without  intermission  to  Delphos,  though  often  nar- 
rowed to  eight  or  ten  rods  by  the  encroachment  of  the 
mountain.  It  is  certainly  fertile,  and  smiles  with 
olives  and  little  patches  of  wheat. 

The  whole  declivity  between  our  road  and  this 
lovely  vale,  steep  and  impracticable  as  it  seemed,  is 
under  cultivation,  except  where  the  rocks  arc  abso- 
lutely bare.  It  is  terraced  with  a skill  and  industry 
of  which  I have  seen  no  other  example  in  Greece. 
Every  spot  where  a little  soil  has  retained  its  original 


Sarcophagi. 


158 


bed  upon  tlie  rock,  or  been  deposited  bj  rain,  is  care- 
fully tilled;  when  practicable,  oxen  are  driven  up  the 
narrow  steep  pathways  to  draw  the  plough.  When 
this  is  not  possible,  they  are  tilled  with  the  spade  or 
hoe.  Some  little  fields,  containing  hardly  four  or  five 
square  rods,  are  yet  secured  by  terraces  and  sown  in 
wheat.  This  description  is  applicable  to  the  whole 
route  from  Krisso  to  Delphos. 

Nearly  midway,  I think,  between  these  places,  we 
saw  several  tombs  cut  out  of  the  face  of  the  mountain. 
The  entrance  is  semicircular  in  form,  three  or  four  feet 
deep  horizontally,  with  an  excavation  of  sufficient 
depth  to  receive  a human  body.  This  was  covered 
with  a large  slab  of  stone.  These  sarcophagi,  how- 
ever, have  been  broken  up,  and  their  contents  re- 
moved. One  of  them  was  much  larger  than  the  di- 
mensions given  above.  The  semicircle  is,  perhaps, 
ten  feet  in  diameter.  The  depth  is  at  least  eight  feet, 
and  there  are  three  sarcophagi,  one  in  front  of  the  en- 
trance, and  one  on  either  hand. 

We  descended  from  a lofty  mountain,  by  a rough 
and  irregular  path,  practicable  only  for  the  horses  of 
the  country,  into  the  modern  village  of  Kastri,  which 
certainly  stands  upon  the  site  of  the  ancient  Delphi. 
The  entrance  is  near  the  pass  where  Perseus,  king  of 
Macedon,  caused  an  ambuscade  to  be  laid  for  the  de- 
struction of  Eumenes  king  of  Pergamos.  Apart  from 
the  associations  which  belong  to  this  celebrated  spot, 
I have  never  seen  a spot  better  calculated  to  inspire 
wonder  and  awe.  The  whole  vale  of  Delphi,  includ- 
ing under  that  name  the  whole  region  bounded  by  the 


154 


Delphi. 


surrounding  mountains,  is  made  up  of  rugged  hills  and 
steep  declivities.  The  immediate  site  of  the  ancient 
city  has  an  inclination  so  great  that  a pedestrian  as- 
cends from  its  lower  edge  with  extreme  difficulty. 
The  temples  and  houses  were  built  upon  terraces  rising 
one  above  another  like  the  seats  of  an  amphitheatre. 
It  would  have  been  impossible  to  support  the  founda- 
tion of  an  edifice  of  any  size  without  such  walls.  The 
surface  forms  an  angle  with  the  horizon  scarcely  less 
than  forty- five  degrees. 

These  terraces  were  built  in  the  most  substantial 
manner,  with  large  blocks  of  hewn  stone.  Many  ves- 
tiges of  them  remain  in  a very  perfect  state.  Indeed, 
they  constitute  the  most  considerable  of  the.  remains  of 
Delphi,  and  'attest  the  scale  of  magnificence  and  mas- 
sive solidity  upon  which  this  renowned  city  was  con- 
structed. ,Two  of  the  most  considerable  and  perfect 
of  these  noble  walls  now  support  the  superincumbent 
weight  of  Christian  churches.  Both  are  shabby,  mean 
structures,  and  form  a melancholy  contrast  with  the 
works  of  those  who  formerly  reared  temples  and  dwell- 
ing-places on  tliis  sacred  spot.  Some  of  these  fragments 
of  the  ancient  terraces  extend  twenty  or  thirty  yards 
in  length — one  is,  I suppose,  twenty-five  feet  high. 

One  of  the  first  objects  that  attract  the  attention  of 
the  traveller  who  visits  Delphi,  is  the  classic  fountain 
of  Castalia.  Its  situation  can  hardly  disappoint  the 
most  extravagant  anticipations.  The  valley  is  bounded 
on  the  north  side  by  Mount  Parnassus,  which  is  here 
nearly  perpendicular,  and  of  great  height.  Its  appear- 
ance is  savage  in  the  extreme.  The  gray  and  broken 


Fountain  of  Castalia.  155 

rocks  are"  perfectly  bare.  Many  enormous  masses, 
loosened  perhaps  by  some  great  convulsion,  have 
tumbled  down  from  the  heights  above,  and  now  lie  in 
wild  irregularity  at  its  base.  Others  have  a threaten- 
ing aspect.  This  is  the  appearance  of  the  mountain 
along  the  whole  eastern  side  of  the  valley,  which  lies 
so  immediately  under  its  precipitous  side,  that  a person 
looking  towards  the  mountain  cannot  see  the  top, 
which,  from  that  position,  seems  to  be  lost  in  the 
clouds.  At  the  immediate  spot  where  the  fountain 
rises,  there  is  a deep  fissure  in  the  mountains,  apjoarent- 
ly  made  by  some  convulsion.  On  either  side  of  the 
chasm  two  projecting  rocks  rise  between  one  and  two 
hundred  feet  perpendicularly. 

From  the  base  of  the  rock,  upon  the  right,  the  Cas- 
talian  source  springs  forth.  There  is  a scarcely  per- 
ceptible horizontal  fissure,  elevated  not  more  than  two 
or  three  feet  from  the  earth  below.  In  this  is  inserted 
a spout,  or  rude  trough,  through  which  the  water 
pours  forth  in  a copious  stream.  It  is  received  in  a 
square  basin,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  of  the  depth  of 
three  or  four  feet.  The  descent  to  this  is  by  several 
steps  also  cut  in  the  rock.  The  mountain  above  this 
fountain,  and  on  both  sides  of  it,  has  been  cut  to  the 
height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet  into  a perfectly  smooth 
face.  In  this  are  several  niches,  which  probably  were 
designed  for  statues  or  offerings.  Between  these  and 
the  fountain  a kind  of  chapel  is  excavated,  conse- 
crated, no  doubt,  to  the  presiding  divinity,  and  now, 
it  is  said,  dedicated  to  St.  J ohu. 

The  water  is  pure  and  sweet,  and  not,  as  has  been 


156 


Sacred  Bocks. 


represented,  unusually  cold.  From  tlie  fountain  the 
.water  flows  rapidly  across  the  steep  inclined  plane  of 
Delphi,  through  a very  deep  and  crooked  ravine.  Its 
high  banks  are  adorned  with  a few  venerable  olive 
trees.  Many  high  rocks  overhang  this  classic  stream. 
Others  lie  across  the  deep  bed,  producing  a suc- 
cession of  wild  cascades.  The  length  of  this  little 
stream — ^it  might  more  appropriately  be  called  im- 
petuous torrent — may  be  half  a mile.  It  enters  the 
Pleistos  between  two  perpendicular  rocks,  not  less,  I 
conjecture,  than  fifty  feet  high,  nor  more  than  twenty 
feet  asunder.  The  old  town  of  Delphi  was  divided 
into  two  parts  by  this  interesting  stream. 

The  two  high  projecting  rocks  above  the  fountain, 
which  were  held  to  be  sacred,  gave  to  the  poetic  moun- 
tain the  name  of  Biceps  Parnassus.  The  one  on  the 
right  hand  was  called  Hyampeia,  the  other  Nauplia. 
From  the  former  Esop,  the  fabulist,  was  thrown ; and 
Nauplia  was  the  Tarpeian  rock  of  Delphi,  from  which 
those  who  were  obnoxious  to  the  gods  or  their  priests 
were  precipitated.  High  above  the  sacred  fountain  are 
seen  clinging  to  the  rock  ivy,  and  a variety  of  shrubs, 
some  of  them  flowering.  The  fig-tree,  which  is  said 
“ to  send  its  roots  into  the  fissures  of  the  rock,  while  its 
wide-spreading  branches  shed  a cool  and  refreshing 
gloom  over  this  interesting  spot,”  has  disappeared. 
“ The  majestic  plane-tree  in  front  of  the  spring,  defend- 
ing it  from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  which  shines  on  it  only 
a few  hours  in  the  day,”*  is  still  in  its  place,  but  it  no 
longer  cheers  and  shelters  the  Castalian  spring,  as  it  is 
* Condor’s  Greece.  Vol.  ii.,  p.  278. 


Narrow  Chasm. 


157 


not  nearer  to  it  tlian  six  or  seven  rods.  Even  travel- 
lers take  poetic  license  on  tkis  inspiring  spot. 

The  chasm  which  separates  the  two  sacred  rocks  is 
not  more  than  five  or  six  yards  wide.  The  tops  of 
these  tall  cliffs  are  nearer  to  each  other  than  their 
bases.  Ilyampeia  leans  over  towards  Nauplia.  This 
chasm  runs  back  into  the  mountain,  I conjecture, 
several  hundred  feet,  diminishing  in  depth,  not  gi’ad- 
ually,  but  so  as  to  form  three  terraces  or  platforms 
rising  at  intervals  one  above  another.  These  arc 
ascended  by  ancient  steps  cut  in  the  marble  rock. 
Wilder  and  Clarke  were  unable  to  ascend  these  steps. 
They  present,  however,  no  considerable  difficulty. 
The  steps  are  polished  by  ancient  use,  so  as  to  have 
become  slippery,  and  they  have  rather  an  inconvenient 
inclination  over  the  chasm.  I ascended  them,  how- 
ever, as  did  my  companion,  without  harm.  The  third 
terrace  is  inaccessible.  Seen  from  the  second,  it  has 
the  appearance  of  the  mouth  of  a cavern.  I threw  into 
it  several  stones,  which  disturbed  some  wild  fowl  who 
found  shelter  there.  They  soared  aloft,  with  much 
noise,  amongst  the  higher  peaks  of  Parnassus. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

. »*■  .:  ^ 

» 

DELPHI.  - -i  ^ 

South-east  of  the  fount,  and  at  the  distance  of 
three  or  four  hundred  yards,  are  the  remains'  of  the 
ancient  gymnasium.  A part  of  its  site  is  occupied  by 
a church  dedicated  to  the  Virgin.  The  location  is 
known  from  the  description  of  ancient  writers,  and  is 
clearly  identified  by  some  massive  walls,  probably  the 
terrace  which  supported  the  structure,  which  are  in  ex- 
cellent preservation.  The  church  has  been  rebuilt 
once  or  oftener,  has  still  some  ancient  pillars  (four)  in 
its  vestibule,  and  other  fragments  of  marble  in  its 
•walls.  Indeed,  there  seems  to  be  a prevalent  ambition 
to  distinguish  not  only  churches  but  private  houses,  and 
these  mere  cottages  or  mean  hovels,  with  some  noble  ves- 
tige of  antiquity.  You  see  fragments  of  precious  and 
finely -wrought  marble  in  the  walls  of  a stable.  The 
houses,  built  of  huge  bricks  baked  in  the  sun,  have 
their  corner-stones  from  the  huge  blocks  which  formed 
the  terraces  of  Delphi.  The  combination  is  grotesque, 
but  not  uninstructive.  It  is  a mighty  and  quite  unpar- 
alleled display  of  modern  skill  and  enterprise,  to  re- 
move one  of  these  masses  from  its  place,  and  raise  it  a 


Ancient  Structures. 


159 


few  feet  in  a modern  wall.  Indeed,  they  are  seldom 
seen  more  than  two  or  three  feet  high.  It  is  hardly 
coneeivable  by  what  art  this  fallen  and  uncivilized  race 
have  been  able  to  demolish  the  works  of  their  ances- 
tors. They  can  construct  only  such  as  are  the  most 
frail  and  clumsy. 

The  research  of  travellers  and  antiquaries  has  not 
been  able  to  fix  upon  the  site  of  but  one  more  of  all 
the  magnificent  structures  which  are  known  to  have  - 
adorned  this  sacred  metropolis.  The  splendid  temple 
of  Apollo  has  been  so  completely  destroyed,  that  the 
most  patient  inquiry  has  not  been  able  to  bring  to  the 
light  a single  well  authenticated  vestige.  The  stadium, 
however,  had  a position  so  peculiar,  and  was  construct- 
ed of  such  indestructible  materials,  that  it  has  obtain- 
ed a more  honorable  destiny.  It  is  in  the  western, 
highest  part  of  Delphi,  above  the  present  village.  The 
ascent  to  it  is  all  but  impossible,  and  is  another  instance 
of  the  higher  value  of  the  ancient  Greeks  for  a lofty 
and  imposing  site  than  for  a convenient  one.  The 
stadium,  which  is  of  an  oblong  form,  like  that  of 
Athens,  was  more  than  six  hundred  feet  long.  It  was 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
east  and  west  by  high  rocks,  and  on  the  south  by  a 
rapid  descent  towards  the  town.  Here  a magnificent 
terrace  was  built  to  support  it,  a considerable  part  of 
which  remains.  The  stones  are  hewn  and  massive. 
One  is  four  yards  long.  A number  of  stone  seats  re- 
main. On  the  eastern  side  six  courses  are  cut  in  the 
solid  rock. 

The  valley  of  Delphi  is  secluded  from  the  world  by 


160 


Fountain  of  Castalia. 


lofty  mountains.  Parnassus  on  the  north,  and  Kirphis 
on  the  south,  rise  u]d  and  overshadow  it  like  cyclopean 
battlements.  Towards  the  west  the  elevation  is  less, 
though  very  considerable,  whilst  the  circuit  of  moun- 
tains towards  the  east  is  completed  by  many  swells  and 
broken  ridges,  among  which  the  valley  is  impercepti- 
bly blended  and  lost  in  an  Alpine  background. 

The  village  of  Kastri  is  one  of  the  most  crowded, 
filthy,  and  mean  in  a country  where  all  are  miserable 
enough.  The  streets  zig-zag  without  reason.  They 
arc  so  narrow  that  you  can  hardly  ride  through  them 
on  your  mule,  and  so  precipitous  as  to  test  the  skill  of 
that  sagacious  animal.  To  add  to  the  difficulty  and 
disgust,  piles  of  manure  and  offensive  offal  are  abun- 
dant. It  was  by  such  approaches  that  we  arrived  near 
the  sacred  Castalian  Spring.  And  here,  as  if  to  teach 
us  how  closely  allied  are  the  sublime  and  the  ridicu- 
^ lous — ^how  near  a neighbor,  sentiment  is  to  vulgarity — 

our  approach  to  the  source  of  poetic  inspiration  was 
literally  blocked  up,  not  by  the  sacred  nine  guarding 
the  portals  of  Apollo  from  the  profane,  but  by  just 
twelve  washer- women,  the  most  coarse  and  unclassical 
of  the  genus,  half  clad  in  hairy -stuff  petticoats  of  un- 
dyed wool,  ragged  and  dirty,  and  extending  just  below 
the  knee  I They  were  washing  foul  clothes  in  the 
stream  just  below  the  basin,  with  water  that  issued 
from  the  sacred  fountain  ! 

Upon  leaving  Delphi  by  the  Thebes  and  Athens 
road,  we  passed  some  ruins  which  were  without  the 
walls  of  the  city.  A confused  mass  of  large  hewn 
stones,  with  some  fragments  of  columns,  indicated  per- 


Ancient  Cemetery. 


161 


haps  the  site  of  some  temple  or  other  considerable 
structure.  This  was  an  ancient  cemetery,  and  many 
massive  sarcophagi,  excavated  in  blocks  of  hewn  stone, 
about  seven  or  eight  feet  long,  by  three  or  four  in 
width  and  height,  lay  upon  the  ground  in  all  direc- 
tions. They  had  all  been  opened ; the  ponderous  lids, 
some  broken,  were  near  each  one.  Of  course,  nothing 
remains  of  their  former  tenants.  One  of  white  marble 
is  only  partially  disinterred.  It  seems  to  have  been 
recently  discovered.  The  lid  is  entire,  though  it  has  been 
removed.  It  has  some  beautiful  emblematical  figures 
sculptured  upon  both  its  exterior  sides.  I was  struck 
with  two  eagles  in  bas-relief  of  exquisite  workmanship. 

The  valley  of  Delphi,  throughout  its  whole  extent, 
exhibits  a more  improved  and  industrious  tillage  than 
I had  yet  seen  in  Greece.  Olive-trees  occupy  much  of 
the  lowest  ground.  The  terraces  upon  which  the  old 
town  was  built  are  sown  in  wheat,  and  for  many  miles 
along  the  road  the  sides  of  the  mountains  were  culti- 
vated to  the  highest  possible  point.  The  higher  parts 
of  these  declivities  are  terraced  with  great  labor,  though 
unskilfully,  and  planted  with  the  vine,  which  seems  to 
thrive  well,  almost  up  to  the  region  of  snow.  Many 
barracks  rise  up  amongst  these  vineyards,  upon  which 
the  small  stones  gathered  from  the  arable  land  are  piled 
to  such  a height  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  low  py- 
ramids. Our  way  was  along  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
elevated,  I should  think,  much  more  than  a thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  vale  upon  our  right.  After 
nearly  three  hours,  we  mounted  still  higher  upon  what 
seemed  to  be  a spire  of  Mount  Parnassus. 


162 


Ar  AKOB  A. 


The  weather,  which  during  the  forenoon,  and  till 
two  o’clock,  was  so  warm,  that  I had  to  shelter  myself 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun  with  an  umbrella,  was  now 
• intensely  cold.  Our  road  continued  to  ascend,  and  to 
become  more  precipitous  and  difficult,  till  we  arrived, 
a little  after  sunset,. at  the  village  of  Arakoba.  This 
place  has  nearly  two  hundred  houses,  rudely  built, 
after  the  fashion  of  the  country,  upon  the  top  of  the 
ridge.  A more  wild  and  ill-adapted  situation  could 
hardly  be  found.  The  narrow  dirty  streets  are  pre- 
cipitous. The  people  are  peasants,  cultivating  the 
vineyards  and  olives  upon  which  we  had  gazed  with 
so  much  pleasure  for  the  last  two  hours,  as  well  as  the 
region  still  farther  north.  ‘ 

The  produce  of  these  fields,  as  well  as  the  fuel,  which 
at  this  aerial  spot  is  an  important  article,  is  transported 
from  the  deep  glens  and  steejD  declivities  where  they 
grow,  to  the  top  of  the  high  and  nearly  inaccessible 
mountain.  It  probably  never  occurred  to  these  primi- 
tive men  that  a better  arrangement  could  be  made 
than  the  onerous  one  which  they  have  no  doubt  in- 
herited from  their  forefathers.  The  spot  had  the  ad- 
vantage of  good  water,  and  is  reputed  to  be  signally 
favorable  to  longevity.  Its  remote  and  difficult  posi- 
tion ought,'  it  should  seem,  to  confer  upon  tlie  people 
the  boon  of  security  from  the  violence  of  war.  This 
quiet  village,  however,  was  the  scene  of  a fierce  battle 
between  the  Greeks  and  Turks,  and,  like  other  towns 
of  this  country,  was  destroyed. 

We  stayed  in  this  village  not  at  the  ordinary  khan, 
but  with  an  acquaintance  of  our  interpreter,  who  has  a 


Style  of  Building. 


163 


brother  a merchant  in  Athens.  lie  was  a proprietor 
and  agriculturist,  superior  in  wealth  and  respectability 
to  the  ordinary  peasant.  It  gave  me  an  opportunity 
of  forming  some  notion  of  the  style  and  domestic 
habits  of  this  class — a thing  I had  much  desired;  The 
house  is  built  in  the  usual  village  fashion,  partly  of  small 
stones,  of  all  shapes,  laid  in  a mortar  made  of  clay, 
partly  of  sun-dried  bricks  of  a large  size.  A wall  con- 
structed of  these  at  first  shows  the  different  strata  of 
which  it  is  composed,  but  after  a longer  exposure  to 
the  weather,  exhibits  only  a uniform  surface  of  earth 
or  dried  mud.  Such  a structure  would  be  decomposed 
by  the  vicissitudes  of  our  American  spring.  Here 
it  stands  for  years. 

I thought  when  I first  saw  the  slight  and  ill-looking 
houses,  of  which  not  only  the  agricultural  villages, 
but  the  cities  too,  are  to  a great  extent  composed,  that 
they  were  cheap  and  hasty  constructions,  run  up  after 
the  desolations  of  the  Eevolution,  to  be  replaced  by  ■ 
better  as  soon  as  circumstances  may  permit.  Upon 
a careful  examination  of  the  old  walls,  which  cover  no  • 
small  part  of  the  surface  of  all  the  towns  in  Grreece,  I 
have  found  them  uniformly  built  in  the  same  barbar- 
ous way.  It  is  the  architecture  of  the  country,  as  sub- 
stantial and  sumptuous  now,  I presume,  as  it  has  been 
at  least  for  two  centuries,  or  the  period  of  the  Turkish 
rule.  The  house  of  our  entertainer  was  floored  with 
rough  planks,  no  common  luxury  here,  where  you  see 
the  bare  earth  through  almost  every  open  door  in  the 
villages.  There  was  no  glass,  though  there  were  win- 
lows  in  one  of  the  rooms  closed  with  plank  shutters. 


164 


A Greek  Family 


There  were  no  windows  in  the  room  where  we  spent 
the  evening.  Two  small  holes  through  the  tile  roof 
served  in  their  place. 

The  family  were  seated  upon  some  old  blankets, 
thrown  down  around  the  fire.  There  was  a kind  of 
chimney,  but  most  of  the  smoke  passed  off  by  the 
windows  in  the  roof.  In  most  of  the  houses  I have 
seen  this  is  the  only  provision,  the  fire  being  made 
upon  a sort  of  hearth  just  under  these  apertures.  The 
smoke,  of  course,  pervades  the  room,  and  passes  off 
leisurely.  Some  very  coarse  chairs  were  brought  for 
us,  as  we  declined  sitting  upon  the  floor,  and  asked  for 
chairs,  or  some  substitute  for  them.  We  saw  also  a 
coarse  table.  A few  indispensable  implements  for 
cooking  and  for  eating  made  up  the  sum  of  household 
stuff.  No  beds  or  bedsteads  Avere  in  use.  A mat,  an 
old  capote,  thrown  upon  the  floor  or  upon  a low  bench, 
arc  the  substitute.  I believe  the  people  sleep  in  their 
’ wearing-apparel — at  least  I have  seen  many  do  it.  The 
table  and  chairs  of  this  family  may  be  taken,  I sup- 
pose, for  luxuries,  since  at  most  of  our  lodging-houses 
we  do  not  find  them, — at  least  Ave  seldom  enjoy  both 
in  the  same  place.  A few  dollars  Avould  furnish  the 
house  of  a peasant  in  the  usual  style. 

A mode  of  living  so  comfortless  I have  nowhere 
seen,  except  perhaps  in  Ireland,  Avhere  deep  poverty 
prevails  to  an  extent  that  leaves  nothing  to  the  masses 
beyond  the  bare  means  of  a AVTetched  existence.  In 
Greece,  the  idea  of  comfort  seems  to  be  Avanting  amongst 
the  peasantry.  Those  Avho  have  means  have  no  Avants. 
Tlie  poorest  hut  in  the  United  States  contains  several 


Mode  of  Living. 


165 


articles  wliicli  to  them  would  not  only  be  unheard  of 
luxuries,  but  of  which  they  could  not  conjecture  the 
use.  Cleanliness  is  quite  unthought  of.  Everything, 
— the  entrance,  the  floors,  the  tables,  the  utensils,  the 
clothes,  the  person, — is  disgustingly  filthy.  As  to 
food,  judging  from  what  I have  seen,  and  more  from 
what  I have  heard  from  Greeks,  as  well  as  foreigners 
well  acquainted  with  their  habits,  I am  sure  that  the 
subsistence  of  five  Greeks  costs  less  than  that  of  an 
American  laborer.  A black,  coarse,  but  not  unpalata* 
ble  bread,  which  costs  in  common  times  less  than  two 
cents  per  pound,  and  a few  olives,  which  cost  hardly 
a tenth  part  of  that  sum,  constitute  almost  their  only 
food. 

The  use  of  animal  food,  including  cheese,  butter  and 
milk,  as  well  as  meat,  is  prohibited  by  the  church  for 
several  months  in  the  year.  But  the  whole  year  is 
Lent  with  the  masses,  who  do  not  think  of  eating  flesh. 
It  is  perhaps  difficult  to  assign  the  causes  which  have 
led  to  a mode  of  living  so  very  frugal  and  abstemious. 
Perhaps  it  has  descended  from  the  ancient  Greeks.  I 
fear  that  there  is  no  good  reason  to  believe  that  civili- 
zation ever  proceeded  beyond  the  large  towns.  Per- 
haps the  barbarous  government  under  which  this  peo- 
ple have  so  long  been  degraded,  has  had  its  influence 
upon  their  modes  of  living.  Under  a system  of  legal 
plunder  and  rapacity,  the  possession  of  property  be- 
comes a crime,  and  every  symptom  of  luxury  and  com- 
fort Ls  studiously  avoided,  through  forethought  and 
fear.  Whatever  the  cause  may  be,  it  is  undeniable 


166 


Mode  of  Living. 


- that  one  meets  here  with  few  proofs  of  that  pervading 
civilization  which  never  exists  without  being  mani- 
fested in  the  decencies  and  conveniences  of  common 
life. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


LI  V ADI  A. 

December  11th.  Our  journey  to  Livadia,  a dis- 
tance of  seven  hours  and  a half,  according  to  the  meas- 
urement of  this  country,  which  allows  about  three  miles 
to  the  hour,  led  us  through  one  of  the  most  desolate 
parts  we  have  yet  seen  in  Greece,  though  far  from 
being  the  most  rough  or  sterile.  I remember  see- 
ing only  two  human  habitations  in  a distance  of  fif- 
teen miles.  Much  of  this  region  is  too  mountainous 
for  tillage,  but  we  passed  through  a good  deal  of  land 
which  has  been  cultivated  and  is  now  evidently  capa- 
ble of  a very  profitable  agriculture.  It  is  overrun 
with  brambles  and  useless  shrubs.  It  bears  little  grass, 
which,  however,  is  grazed  by  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats. 
There  are  in  Greece  vast  quantities  of  arable  land  lying 
waste,  more  useless  than  abandoned  fields  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  as  nature  does  not  here  clothe  such  lands 
with  a new  growth  of  forest  trees.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  a few  stunted  pines,  I have  not  yet  seen  a forest 
tree  in  Greece.  It  is  not  easy  to  conjecture  why,  in  a 
country  like  this,  which,  with  800,000  inhabitants,  and 
certainly  not  8,000  square  uniles  of  good  land,  cannot 


168 


Ll  VADI  A. 


be  tliouglit  tliinlj  peopled,  so  large  a part  of  tbe  ara- 
ble land  remains  untilled. 

The  vast  extent  of  the  publie  domains,  with  a most 
preposterous  system  of  managing  them — ^the  iniquitous 
system  of  collecting  the  revenue  by  tythes,  which 
tends  directly  to  throw  out  of  cultivation  all  but  lands 
of  the  first  quality — the  want  of  roads  and  consequent 
want  of  good  accessible  markets — together  with  a prev- 
alent want  of  capital,  are  possibly  the  chief  cause.  I 
' suspect,  too,  that  there  is  a disinclination  to  agricul- 
tural pursuits.  It  seems  to  me  that  the  people  show  a 
- decided  preference  for  town  life,  however  mean,  with 
some  petty  trade  or  mercantile  speculation.  It  strikes 
me  that  the  number  of  shops,  in  all  the  cities  and  large 
villages  I have  seen,  is  out  of  all  proportion  to  the 
population  and  business.  Everything  is  subdivided, 
and  the  articles  of  trade  and  merchandise  seen  in  a 
dozen  shops  ought  to  be  in  one. 

The  land  is  very  good  in  the  immediate  neighborhood 
of  Lavidia,  where  we  passed  the  night.  The  city  has  a 
considerable  population ; I could  not  learn  the  precise 
amount.  Under  the  Turkish  rule,  when  it  was  the  seat 
of  government  for  a large  part  of  Greece,  it  was  an  im- 
portant place,  and  contained,  it  is  said,  twenty  thousand 
inhabitants.  It  may  have  six  thousand  now.  It  is 
built  upon  the  edge  of  the  extensive  and  rich  plain 
which  bears  its  name,  and  extends  back  upon  the  side 
of  the  high  mountain  tliat  overlooks  it  from  tlic  south. 
The  view  is  very  imposing  and  beautiful  on  approach- 
ing the  town  as  we  did.  No  illusion,  however,  was 
ever  more  completely  removed  than  was  this  upon 


L I V A D I A. 


169 


closer  inspection.  A town  so  badly  laid  out,  so  mean- 
ly built,  and  so  shamefully  dirty,  I have  certainly  not 
often  seen.  Yet  the  people  are  said  to  be  rich,  and 
they  certainly  possess,  in  the  fertile  plain  they  culti- 
vate, an  inexhaustible  source  of  opulence.  The  situa- 
tion is  decidedly  unhealthy,  and  the  pale  and  sickly 
faces  one  meets  with,  aggravate  the  unfavorable  im- 
pression made  upon  a stranger  by  a contemplation  of 
the  interior  deformities  of  the  city. 

Livadia,  the  old  Lebadea,  has  no  antiquities,  though 
it  existed,  as  is  well  known,  and  was  a large  and  pop- 
ulous city  in  the  early  days  of  the  Grecian  republics. 
I saw  a few  fragments  of  wrought  marble  and  some 
broken  pillars  in  the  walls  of  a church  near  the  citadel 
Antiquarians  have  discovered  nothing  which  they 
have  thought  worth  recording.  It  is,  however,  a con- 
nection with  the  mythology  of  Greece  which  gives 
to  this  locality  a peculiar  interest  It  is  well  ascer- 
tained that  the  allegorical  fountains  of  Memory  and 
Oblivion  are  within  the  limits  of  this  city.  They  are 
south-east  of  the  present  Livadia,  just  beyond  the  limit 
occupied  by  human  habitations. 

On  this  side  of  the  city  is  a citadel,  a high  and  com- 
manding rock,  fortified  at  the  top,  and  once  thought 
impregnable.  It  is  now  neglected.  This  immense 
rock  appears  to  be  one  end  of  the  high  bare  mountain 
which  lies  behind  the  city,  and  it  is  severed  from  it 
by  a profound  gulf  of  nearly  perpendicular  sides,  and 
not  more  than  twenty-five  yards  in  vddth,  which  inter- 
venes between  these  threatening  cliffs.  A winter  tor- 
rent of  no  great  magnitude  meanders  and  leaps  along 

8 


170 


Fountain  of  Oblivion. 


this  dark  chasm  for  nearly  a mile — its  bed  piled  np 
and  obstructed  by  vast  fragments  of  rock  that  have 
fallen  from  the  overhanging  mountains.  Altogether, 
it  is  a scene  of  peculiar  and  savage  grandeur.  Just  as 
the  termination  of  this  ravine,  next  to  the  city,  and 
under  the  eastern  side  of  the  rock  of  the  citadel,  rises 
the  fountain  of  Memory.  It  runs  sluggishly  from  the 
roek,  rather  below  than  above  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
Its  water  has  the  appearance  of  being  stagnant  rather 
than  a living  stream.  Almost  immediately  oppo- 
site, across  the  bed  of  the  winter  torrent  above  de- 
scribed, is  the  fountain  of  Oblivion.  It  springs  from 
under  a high  bank — at  once  a copious  stream,  which, 
with  the  humble  aid  of  the  fountain  of  Memory,  which 
immediately  joins  it,  turns  several  mills  in  the  first 
quarter  of  a mile,  and  flows  away  to  the  plain. 

The  aneients  called  this  stream  the  river  Ilercyna. 
It  is  said,  in  a very  respectable  book  of  travel,  that  the 
larger  of  these  fountains  still  retains  its  ancient  name, 
Lephe — a manifest  corruption  of  Lethe.  Another  trav- 
eller (Dr.  Clarke)  has  said  that  its  waters  are  “troubled 
and  muddy.”  To  my  eye  they  are  beautifully  trans- 
parent and  clear.  I walked  from  my  khan  half  a 
mile,  just  after  daybreak,  provided  with  soap,  towel, 
and  tooth-brush,  and  there  performed  my  morning  ab- 
lutions. The  water  is  rather  warm  for  a living  spring. 
It  is  soft  .to  an  uncommon  degree,  and  pleasant  to  the 
taste. 

Not  only  are  these  fountains  of  great  poetieal  inter- 
est ; the  place  was  manifestly  consecrated  by  religious 
observances.  Only  a few  feet  from  the  fountain  of 


Ancient  Chamber. 


171 


Memory,  in  tlie  eastern  face  of  the  lofty  mount  of  the 
citadel,  a chamber  is  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  not  less 
than  a dozen  feet  in  length,  eight  or  ten  high,  and 
nearly  as  many  in  width.  ISTear  this  apartment  are 
several  niches  cut  deep  into  the  rock,  manifestly  for 
containing  statues  and  votive  offerings.  These  remains 
leave  no  doubt,  that  this  spot  was  once  consecrated  to 
the  religious  sentiments,  with  which  the  mythology  and 
poetry  of  the  ancient  Greeks  were  so  intimately  blend- 
ed. This  chamber  contained,  at  no  remote  era,  the  re- 
mains of  some  elegant  painting,  no  doubt  antique.  All 
is,  however,  now  blackened  and  obliterated  by  smoke. 
The  chamber  has  apparently  given  shelter  to  some 
houseless  family  during  the  devastating  war  of  the 
revolution,  and  no  vestige  remains  of  whatever  it  might 
have  previously  preserved  to  gratify  the  taste  of  the 
amateur  in  the  fine  arts. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


LEUCTKA  AND  PLATEA 

December  12th.  We  rode  more  than  four  hours 
along  the  great  fertile  plain  that  spreads  out  east  and 
north,  from  Livadia  towards  Boeotia.  It  can  hardly  be 
less  than  fifteen  miles  in  length,  by  ten  or  twelve  wide. 
It  is  a perfect  level,  bounded  on  all  sides  by  mountains, 
and  it  was  probably  once  a vast  lake,  which  has  been 
partially  drained  by  some  convulsion  of  nature.  No 
inconsiderable  portion  of  it,  on  the  side  most  remote 
from  the  city,  is  still  too  low  and  humid  for  cultivation. 
A part  of  it  is  still  a lake,  and  was  anciently  called  the 
lake  of  Copais.  In  rainy  seasons  a large  tract  is  over- 
flowed with  water,  and  generates  disease  in  the  villages 
as  well  as  in  Livadia. 

This  plain,  as  well  as  the  more  elevated  land  that 
borders  upon  it,  is  extremely  fertile,  and  produces 
wheat,  Indian  corn,  rice,  and  cotton,  abundantly.  The 
cotton-plant  is  below  the  height  of  even  inferior  lands 
in  the  United  States,  owing  probably  to  bad  culture. 
It  is  not  planted  in  rows,  so  as  to  be  tilled  with  the 
plough  and  hoe,  as  with  us,  but  sown  broad  cast. 
This  large  tract  contains  a considerable  number  of 


Chekonea  and  Leuctra.  173 

populous  villages.  The  village  of  Kaprena  is  upon  its 
border,  not  more  than  three  miles  from  Livadia.  It 
was  in  plain  view  as  we  left  the  latter  town,  and  dur- 
ing almost  the  whole  of  our  journey  along  the  plain. 
It  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Cheronea,  where  the 
liberties  of  Greece  fell  a prey  to  the  victorious  ambi- 
tion of  Philip  of  Macedon.  After  a very  fatiguing 
ride  of  about  eight  and  a half  hours,  we  stopped  upon 
another  renowned  battle-field,  where  the  invincible 
Spartans  were  first  defeated  in  a pitched  battle  by  the 
Theban  Pelopidas. 

The  city  of  Leuctra,  though  not  large,  must  have 
been  very  well  fortified,' and  probably  contained  sev- 
eral large  temples  and  other  public  edifices.  This  is 
apparent  from  the  very  considerable  remains  which  lie 
scattered  over  rich  corn-fields  that  occupy  this  fertile 
region.  Large  blocks  of  hewn  stone  are  to  be  seen 
half  buried  by  the  plough.  Many  stand  upright  at 
regular  distances,  apparently  designed  to  mark  the  line 
of  division  between  different  proprietors.  There  are 
three  or  four  piles  of  these  massive  stones,  which  were 
formerly  Greek  chapels,  and  were  probably  demolished 
by  the  Turks  during  the  late  war.  Fragments  of 
columns  and  well-wrought  marble  architraves  are  con- 
fusedly intermixed,  in  these  rude  edifices,  with  the 
large  oblong  masses  that  once  formed  the  citadel  or 
the  walls  of  Leuctra.  Two  or  three  fountains  are  con- 
structed of  the  same  kind  of  materials. 

I saw  two  or  three  beautiful  bas-reliefs,  in  white 
marble,  half  concealed  in  the  mud.  I especially  recol- 
lect one  block  of  precious  marble,  Avith  a vine  exquis- 


174 


Khan  of  Leuctra. 


itely  chiselled  and  in  perfect  preservation.  This  prob- 
ably formed  a part  of  the  frieze  of  some  very  sumptu- 
ous edifice.  Upon  another  was  sculptured  a man  on 
horseback,  which,  though  greatly  mutilated,  seemed  to 
have  been  wrought  by  a skilful  hand.  The  circuit  of 
the  walls  is  distinctly  marked,  not'  only  by  vestiges  of 
the  stone- work,  but  by  a mound  of  earth  and  loose 
stones,  which  rises  in  many  places  as  high  as  eight  or 
ten  feet,  and  forms  a large  quadrangle.  I did  not 
measure  the  length  of  the  wall,  but  think  it  not  less 
than  half  or  three-quarters  of  a mile.  I have  no  book 
in  my  possession  which  notices  these  ruins,  though 
they  are  too  considerable  to  have  been  passed  unob- 
served. 

The  khan  of  Leuctra  is  decidedly  the  worst  we  have 
yet  encountered.  It  has  neither  floor  nor  chimney, 
neither  table  nor  chairs.  In  this  most  filthy  of  nations, 
this  spot  is  entitled  to  the  bad  eminence  of  being  re- 
markably foul.  To  complete  the  catalogue  of  dis- 
agreeables, besides  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.,  myself  and  our 
dragoman,  the  room  was  also  occupied  by  our  mule- 
teers and  several  other  persons.  The  Greeks  tumbled 
down  upon  the  ground,  and  fell  asleep  like  so  many 
hogs.  We  made  the  best  use  we  could  of  some  old 
mats -and  what  bedding  we  had  with  us,  and  then 
spent  a nearly  sleepless  night  in  a vain  and  unequal 
controversy  with  swarms  of  fleas.  I have  reason  to 
remember  the  khan  of  Leuctra.  I ought  not  to  omit 
the  only  alleviation  of  our  unpleasant  situation.  We 
made  an  excellent  supper  on  some  wild  ducks  which 
Demetrius  bought  upon  the  plain  of  Livadia  at  twelve 


Plate  A. 


175 


and  a half  cents  apiece.  These  delicious  fowls  abound 
amongst  the  pools  and  marshes  that  cover  so  large  a 
part  of  that  extensive  valley. 

Dec.  13th.  A ride  of  three  hours  on  a very  wretch- 
ed road,  rendered  all  but  impassable  by  deep  mud, 
brought  us  from  Leuctra  to  another  spot  memorable  in 
the  annals  of  Greece.  The  ancient  Platea  was  built 
about  a mile  north  of  a high  ridge  of  mountains,  and 
just  upon  the  border  of  that  extensive  tract  of  rich 
land  that  stretches  with  little  interruption  from  Li- 
vadia  to  Thebes,  and  has  ever  been  regarded  the  best 
agricultural  region  in  Greece.  Its  fertility  seems  in  no 
degree  exhausted  by  centuries  of  unskilfal  cultivation. 
I could  not  discover  that  any  attention  was  bestowed 
upon  manures.  The  ploughing  is  of  the  worst  possi- 
ble description.  It  is  shallow  and  unskilful — a sort  of 
ridge  is  formed  by  throwing  two  furrows  towards  each 
other,  covering  at  least  as  much  of  unbroken  surface 
as  is  stirred  by  the  plough.  «The  wheat  springs  u]3 
from  the  dark  rich  soil  thus  imperfectly  prepared  a 
broad,  rank  shoot,  and  the  stubble  of  the  former  har- 
vest, sufficiently  attests  that  the  matured  grain  is  an- 
swerable to  its  early  promise. 

The  great  battlefield  under  the  walls  of  Platea,  is 
of  the  most  luxuriant  fertility.  One  might  be  led  to 
think  that  the  blood  of  the  warriors  slain  upon  some 
of  the  most  celebrated  fields  of  ancient  and  mod- 
ern times,  has  imparted  an  inexhaustible  richness  to 
the  soil.  Waterloo,^  Leipzig,  and  Dresden,  are  the 
most  productive  corn  lands  in  western  Europe,  and 
the  renowned  plains  of  Mantinea,  Leuctra,  and  Platea,. 


176 


Ancient  Ee mains. 


have  a striking  resemblance  to  these  in  the  color  and 
quality  of  their  soil.  They  are  the  best  lands  in 
G reece.  The  remains  of  this  ancient  city  are  consider- 
able — sufficient  to  mark  its  position  for  many  centuries 
to  come,  though  they  possess  none  of  the  sumptuous- 
magnificence  which  belongs  to  those  of  Athens^  and 
to  some  other  single  monuments  of  Grecian  taste  and 
skill. 

Two  or  three  large  heaps  of  massive  hewn  stones^ 
intermingled  with  blocks  of  wrought  marble  and  frag- 
ments of  columns,  sufficiently  mark  the  position  of 
some  of  the  most  considerable  public  edifices  of  this 
city.  The  modern  Greeks,,  with  that  preposterous- 
ingenuity  by  which  they  are  perpetually  putting 
their  puny  works  in  humiliating  contrast  with  the 
splendid  creations  of  their  noble  ancestors,  have  con- 
structed churches  of  these  beautiful  materials,  arrang- 
ing them  without  taste  or  skill — a bit  of  curiously 
Avrought  architrave  in'  the  foundation — a huge  block 
of  gray  breccia  upon  the  fragments  of  a marble  col- 
umn— ^those  masses  which  Avere  too  ponderous  for  the 
unaided  human  strength  or  clumsy  machinery,  wrought 
into  the  Avail  edgewise  or  perpendicular,  as  they  Avere 
able — the  interstices  and  inequalities  filled  with  bricks 
and  broken  stones  in  the  most  bungling  manner.  For- 
tunately, the  no  less  barbarous  Turks  have  nearly  de- 
molished all  these  grotesque  constructions.  Besides 
these  temples  and  public  buildings,  there ’are  consider- 
able remains  of  the  walls  of  the  city,  which  are  con- 
structed of  large  blocks  of  hcAvn  stone.  At  least  they 
Avere  faced  interiorly  and  Avithout,  Avith  these  stones 


Walls  of  the  City.  177 

laid  without  cement,  whilst  the  space  between  was  filled 
up  with  smaller  stones  laid  in  mortar  or  with  earth. 

The  foundations  of  the  northern  wall  remain  to  a 
considerable  extent  entire : one  course,  and  a part  of 
the  way,  two  or  three  courses  of  stones,  remain  in  their 
original  position,  and  above  the  present  surface  of  the 
ground.  The  accumulation  of  rubbish  is  eight  or  ten 
feet  in  height,  and  no  doubt  the  wall  remains  entire  at 
least  to  that  height.  It  narrows  gradually  from  the 
base,  and  the  part  now  visible  is  about  ten  feet  thick 
at  the  top.  There  are  two  or  three  projections  in  the 
northern  wall,  which  were  probably  towers.  There 
are  similar  indications  at  the  two  terminations,  or  at 
the  angles  made  by  this  with  the  walls  on  the  east  and 
west  sides  of  the  town.  A mound  of  earth,  together 
with  scattered  blocks  of  stone,  distinctly  marks  the 
whole  extent  of  the  wall  that  enclosed  the  city. 

The  interior  of  the  city,  which  is  under  tillage,  is 
raised  from  five  to  ten  feet  above  the  surrounding 
field,  by  the  accumulation  of  rubbish.  I looked  with 
peculiar  interest  upon  these  memorials  of  the  little  city 
of  Platea,  which  was  distinguished  amongst  the  cotem- 
porary Grecian  states,  by  its  gallantry  and  good  faith. 
When  more  powerful  states  were  terrified  at  the  ap- 
proach of  the  hosts  of  Persia,  Platea  alone  sent  a thou- 
sand men  to  fight  for  liberty  by  the  side  of  the  Athe- 
nians at  Marathon.  Her  citizens  distinguished  them- 
selves throughout  the  war,  and  much  in  the  memorable 
action  which  has  given  immortality  to  her  name. 
Platea,  too,  was  true  to  her  alliances,  and  remained 
ever  the  fast  friend  of  inconstant  but  glorious  Athens. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


THEBES. 

From  Platea  to  Thebes  is  a ride  of  about  three  hours 
through  a lovely  and  fertile  region.  For  the  last  four 
or  five  miles,  our  road  lay  through  lands  belonging  to 
the  government,  which,  though  equal  to  any  in  the 
world  in  quality,  are  here  as  elsewhere  wholly  unculti- 
vated. Several  large  flocks  of  sheep  were  scattered 
over  this  untilled  region ; the  shepherds  and  their  huge 
dogs  sauntering  listlessly  along  the  sides  of  the  road, 
to  gaze  and  bark  at  passers-by,  for  want  of  some  more 
pressing  employment.  The  public  lands  seem  to  be 
used  as  a common,  where  cattle  and  sheep  graze  with- 
out restraint,  and  where  the  people  from  the  towns  and 
villages  cut  wood  for  fuel,  whenever  they  can  find  a 
stunted  thorn  or  holly  fit  for  that  purpose. 

This  is  one  principal  use  of  the  public  ‘ domains. 
They  seem  not  to  be  preferred  by  cultivators ; though 
let  at  a lower  rate  than  private  lands.  The  govern- 
ment is  not  liked  as  a landlord.  Other  proprietors  aid 
the  tenant  in  various  ways ; by  advancing  seed-corn, 
by  furnishing  half  or  all  the  oxen  and  donkeys,  and 
the  implements  of  husbandry.  All  these  accommoda- 


Thebes. 


179 


tioiis  are  paid  for  in  the  division  of  the  crop,  but  they 
enable  the  tenant,  who  has  little  or  no  capital,  to  begin. 
Even  those  who  do  not  need  such  advances  are  said  to 
be  fond  of  obtaining  them,  from  the  inveterate  habit 
contracted  under  a.  rapacious  government  of  hoarding 
all  acquisitions,  and  exposing  nothing  that  can  be  se- 
cured or  concealed,  to  the  risk  of  business  investments. 
It  is  from  the  same  cause  that  many  in  easy  or  even  in 
affluent  circumstances  appear  like  beggars  in  their  dress 
and  habitations.  Under  the  Turkish  domination,  the 
knowledge  that  a man  possessed  property  led  almost 
certainly  to  some  judicial  fraud  or  barefaced  act  of  vio- 
lence to  rob  him  of  it.  There  is  now  probably  no 
fear  of  such  atrocities ; but  habits  change  slowly,  and 
Greece  will  long  wear  the  ugly  scars  of  wounds  really 
healed.  They  must  for  a time  remain  barbarous,  be- 
cause injustice  and  oppression,  no  longer  dominant, 
have  made  barbarians  of  them. 

Thebes  is  not  built  upon  a mountain,  nor  does  it 
contain  any  lofty  cliff,  which  could  afford  a retreat  to 
its  inhabitants  in  times  of  peril.  Of  the  principal 
towns  of  ancient  Greece  whose  site  I have  visited,  this 
is  the  first  which  appears  to  have  been  chosen  in  refer- 
ence to  any  other  advantages  than  those  of  defence. 
Athens  and  Corinth,  though  addicted  to  commerce, 
chose  their  positions  by  the  side  of  mountains,  rather 
than  upon  the  borders  of  those  safe  and  capacious  har- 
bors that  were  in  their  neighborhood,  and  offered  such 
facilities  for  commercial  enterprises.  Security  from  ex- 
ternal violence  was  the  first  want  to  be  provided  for. 
Thebes  is  in  the  midst  of  rich  corn-fields.  It  is  four 


180 


Thebes. 


or  five  miles  from  any  liigli  mountain,  and  between  it 
and  the  nearest  range  spreads  one  of  the  most  lovely 
and  fertile  plains  in  Greece.  The  ancient  walls  contain- 
ed several  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  and  no  large 
tract  of  level  ground,  so  the  city  may  be  said  to  have 
been  built  upon  hills.  It  has  no  splendid  remains. 
The  old  wall  is  traceable  in  many  places.  It  was  built, 
like  the  ramparts  of  other  Grecian  towns,  of  large 
square  stones.  Many  of  these  remain  in  their  original 
position.  Others  have  been  converted  into  fountains, 
churches,  and  foundations.  The  remains  of  an  ancient 
fosse  outside  of  the  wall  are  also  observable.  No  fine 
temples  have  been  discovered,  and  yet  a multitude  of 
antique  columns  of  various  orders  and  of  marbles  are 
seen  partially  buried,  or  inserted  in  the  walls  and  in 
terior  of  modern  churches. 

These  certainly  belonged  to  ancient  edifices ; and 
from  the  many  manifestations  in  difierent  parts  of  the 
town,  where  the  rubbish  has  been  partially  removed  to 
found  new  houses,  or  for  other  purposes,  I am  persuad- 
ed that  precious  monuments  of  art  lie  profusely  scatter- 
ed under  the  accumulations  of  rubbish  which  are  here 
of  very  unusual  height,  and  seem  to  have  been  little 
molested  by  the  curiosity  of  the  antiquary.  Extensive 
excavations,  judiciously  conducted,  may  add  much  to 
our  present  knowledge  of  Grecian  scul]Dture  and  archi- 
tecture. At  least  it  may  demonstrate  that  Thebes  has 
been  too  hastily  declared  to  possess  nothing  of  the 
curious  and  instructive  memorials  of  the  past,  which 
seem  to  be  the  only  valuable  heritage  of  these  fallen 
cities. 


Modern  Thebes. 


181 


Here  are  several  towns  evidently,  of  the  Venetian 
age,  built  of  the  ruins  of  more  beautiful  and  substan- 
tial structures  than  these  merchant  princes  were  able 
to  construct.  There  is  something  painful  in  marking 
the  progress  from  bad  to  worse  in  the  memorials  left  by 
the  successive  masters  of  Greece,  since  the  days  of  her 
glory ; from  the  Komans,  the  Byzantines,  the  Vene- 
tians, the  Turks,  and  so  far,  I fear,  we  must  say  the 
modern  Greeks,  the  deterioration  has  been  uninterrupt- 
ed, and  has  followed  every  change. 

Thebes  is  now  meanly  and  stragglingly  built,  a clus-  * 
ter  of  mud  cottages  here  and  there,  with  little  atten- 
tion to  streets  or  any  other  principle  of  regularity. 
Few  of  the  houses  are  of  solid  construction.  It  is  in 
the  midst  of  modern  as  well  as  of  ancient  ruins.  The 
rubbish  from  fallen  structures  is  an  immense  pile  and 
of  great  depth,  extending  over  much  of  the  town.  I 
am  not  aware  that  any  considerable  attempt  has  been 
made  at  excavation  in  Thebes  to  disinter  ancient  re- 
mains. Such  must  exist  here  as  well  as  in  the  other 
large  towns,  and  probably  would  richly  repay  the  ex- 
pense of  the  search.  Under  a settled  and  enlight- 
ened government,  something  of  the  kind  may  soon  be 
attempted.  Thebes  acted  no  very  distinguished  part 
in  Grecian  politics,  nor  was  she  ever  honored  by  many 
literary  men.  Still,  she  had  wealth,  and  a large  popu- 
lation, and,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  public  edifices  in  some 
measure  commensurate  with  them.  The  columns  and 
other  fragments  already  disinterred  are  certainly  inferior 
to  what  might  have  been  expected  in  such  a city,  so 
long  the  metropolis  of  the  most  fertile  state  in  Greece. 


182 


Khan  of  Thebes. 


December  14th.  I have  had  another  opportnnity 
of  examining  the  situation  of  Thebes,  and  it  certainly 
had  more  strength  as  a military  position  than  I at  first 
supposed.  Immediately  west  of  the  city  is  a deep  val- 
ley, the  descent  of  which,  though  not  precipitous,  is 
very  steep,  and  susceptible  of  easy  and  efficient  defence 
against  all  the  modes  of  warfare  known  to  the  ancients. 
The  hill  which  overlooks  this  valley  is  the  highest  in 
the  city,  and  upon  it  probably  the  ancient  citadel  was 
situated. 

We  were  disappointed  in  not  finding  more  tolerable 
accommodation  in  a place  of  so  much  importance,  its 
population  being  hardly  less  than  five  or  six  thou- 
sand, and  the  surrounding  region  certainly  the  most 
fertile  in  the  kingdom.  The  only  inn  or  khan  is 
one  of  tlie  worst  in  a country  where  all  are  intol- 
erably bad.  We  had  our  choice  of  several  rooms 
upon  the  second  story,  and  selected  the  one  which, 
though  probably  the  best  in  the  house,  proved  to  be 
immediately  above  the  stable.  In  the  stable,  which 
was  very  large,  not  only  horses  and  asses  had  quar- 
ters, but  also  the  muleteers  and  guides,  to  the  number, 
if  a judgment  might  be  formed  from  their  incessant 
vociferations,  of  at  least  a dozen.  I do  not  think 
they  were  all  silent  during  an  entire  quarter  of  an 
liour  throughout  the  night.  The  asses,  too,  were 
vocal,  and  huge  dogs  ever  and  anon  joined  in  the 
chorus.  The  horses,  though  ordinarily  silent  and 
quiet  animals,  were  adorned  with  bells  similar  to  those 
put  upon  cows  in  America,  which  they  wear  at  all 


A Memorable  Night. 


183 


times,  and  were  tlins  enabled. to  act  no  inferior  part 
in  this  dismal  concert. 

In  a room  next  to  us  were  stretched  a half  dozen  or 
more  Greeks,  who  either  talked  or  snored  incessantly. 
Hard  by  was  a man  ill  with  a fever.  He  groaned  or 
raved  at  almost  every  breath.  Another  annoyance 
still  more  intimate  we  had  in  the  fumes  of  the  manure 
from  the  stable.  The  night  was  warm,  and  the  odor 
was  nearly  suffocating.  To  finish  the  catalogue  of 
misfortunes,  swarms  of  fieas  devoured  us  from  the  mo- 
ment we  attempted  to  sleep.  Such  a night  of  restless- 
ness, and  almost  of  agony,  I have  seldom  experienced. 
I rose  without  refreshment,  feverish  and  excited.  A 
walk  at  daybreak  in  the  balmy  atmosphere  revived  me 
a good  deal,  and  I set-out  upon  the  journey  of  the 
day,  assured  at  least  that  I could  hardly  fare  worse 
during  the  two  additional  nights  which  I must  pass 
before  returning  to  my  comfortable  hotel  in  Athens. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

B (EOTIA. 

The  level  country  which  we  had  passed  in  travelling 
for  the  last  two  days,  continues  with  little  interruption 
to  the  long  arm  of  the  sea,  that  separates  the  island  of 
Negropont  from  the  mainland  of  Greece.  Through 
this  beautiful  and  fertile  region,  the  more  agreeable  to 
us  on  account  of  its  striking  contrast  to  all  that  we 
had  hitherto  seen  in  Greece,  lay  our  route  for  the  day. 
The  road  was  very  good  for  horseback  travelling,  and 
even  a carriage  might  pass  with  little  difficulty  over 
the  greater  part  of  the  route.  Such  a luxury,  how- 
ever, has  not  probably  been  seen  in  Boeotia  since  the 
fall  of  the  Byzantine  empire.  At  first,  we  rode  by 
ploughed  fields  of  that  dark,  rich  mould  which  we  had 
so  much  admired  around  Leuctra  and  Platea,  and  from 
thence  to  Thebes.  Then  succeeded  a large  tract,  which 
I took  to  be  of  the  government  domain  from  its  being 
allowed  to  lie  waste,  though  of  exuberant  fertility. 
After  the  first  two  hours,  the  soil  is  lighter  but  still 
very  productive. 

This  is  the  season  for  sowing  wheat,  and  a multitude 
of  ploughs,  drawn  always  by  oxen,  were  in  motion  here 


Cattle. 


185 


and  every  where  upon  this  magnificent  plain.  I have 
not  seen  any  other  animal  attached  to  the  plough  in 
Greece,  nor  have  I seen  the  ox  employed  in  any  other 
way.  He  is  a small  lean  animal,  more  active  far  than  the 
ox  of  New  England,  but  certainly  not  half  so  heavy. 
The  yoke  is,  I think,  nearly  six  feet  in  length.  I 
have  seen  a multitude  of  oxen  in  all  parts  of  agri- 
cultural Greece, — certainly  many  hundred  pair, — ^but 
scarcely  a dozen  cows  in  my  whole  excursion.  All 
other  cattle  seem  to  be  equally  scarce.  They  are  prob- 
ably consumed  in  the  large  towns,  whilst  the  oxen  are  ‘ 
reserved  for  agriculture.  The  cattle  and  sheep  of 
Greece  were  nearly  exterminated  by  the  war.  Horned 
cattle  are  yet  very  scarce,  whilst  sheep,  which  are  more 
prolific,  are  now  as  abundant  as  ever.  I much.jdoubt 
whether  the  country  is  favorable  to  milch  cows.  It  is 
dry,  and  the  grazing  land  neither  good  nor  abundant, 
at  least  in  the  parts  I have  visited.  The  grass  and 
other  vegetation  that  grows  upon  the  mountains  and 
other  uncultivated  lands,  is  sufficient  to  maintain  the 
flocks  of  sheep,  though  the  mutton  is  lean  and  insipid 
and  the  wool  coarse.  It  is  at  least  as  much  for  the 
dairy  as  for  these  products  that  sheep  are  reared. 

I have  not  tasted  their  milk,  but  I have  their  butter, 
wffiich  is  strong  and  unsavory.  Milk  is  very  scarce. 
We  have  inquired  for  it  at  every  stopping-place,  but 
have  obtained  it  only  once  during  our  whole  journey. 
It  is  said  to  be  out  of  season  for  this  luxury.  Swine, 

I think,  are  very  scarce,  as  well  as  cattle.  I have 
liardly  seen  so  many 'as  a dozen  since  I left  Athens, 
where  a great  number  are  at  large,  and  are  no  slight 


)' 


186  Halt  at  NooN’DAY. 

nuisance.  The  feathered  race  are  much  more  abun- 
dant than  quadrupeds.  Chickens  are  to  be  had  every- 
where at  low  prices.  Turkeys  and  geese,  though  less 
abundant,  are  often  seen.  I have  seldom  seen  such 
flights  of  wild  fowl.  Wild  ducks,  wild  geese,  and 
pigeons  we  have  seen  almost  every  day  in  immense 
numbers.  Flocks  of  crows  follow  the  ploughman  in 
every  field,  and  devour  the  wheat  which  his  imper- 
fect ploughing  has  left  uncovered.  These  mischiev- 
ous birds  are  amazingly  bold,  and  the  confidence  with 
which  they  approach  the  laborers  in  the  field,  is  a 
proof  that  not  much  pains  is  taken  to  destroy  them. 
They  must  be  very  destructive  in  parts  of  the  country 
so  much  cultivated  in  grain  as  this  is.  I was  told  that 
the  peasants  do  not  shoot  them,  though  no  game-laws 
exist  to  prevent  it,  with  the  exception  of  a tax  of  three 
drachmas  per  acre  for  the  privilege  of  hunting. 

W e stopped  to  rest  and  prepare  dinner  at  about  one- 
half  the  distance  from  Thebes  to  Oropo.  To  save  time, 
Demetrius  rode  on  before  with  orders  to  make  ready 
against  our  arrival.  We  found  him,  however,  just  be- 
ginning to  make  a fire  of  fagots,  and  learned  from 
him  that  he  had  found  much  difficulty  in  obtaining  a 
place  for  these  indispensable  rites.  He  had  applied  to 
several  persons  without  success,  and  at  last  was  reluc- 
tantly received  into  a house  with  but  one  room  and 
one  door,  occupied  at  the  same  time  as  a stable  and  a 
liuman  dwelling-place.  The  first  object  that  met  my 
eye  as  I entered  the  door,  was  the  oxen  standing  in 
the  stall  immediately  before  me.  A small  part  of  the 
room,  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  square,  was  appropriated 


Dining  in  Public. 


187 


to  the  family,  and  could  be  reached  only  by  walking 
in  the  rear  of  the  cattle.  Here  Demetrius  was  making 
a fire  of  fagots  for  the  furtherance  of  his  culinary  de- 
signs, in  the  middle  of  the  room,  upon  the  bare  ground, 
which  was  at  once  the  only  floor  and  the  only  fire- 
place. Mrs. had  spread  her  bed  upon  a pile  of 

fagots  in  the  yard,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  some  re- 
pose. I had  found  an  old  bee-hive,  of  which  I made  a 
seat  also  in  the  open  air,  as  being  the  more  comfort- 
able quarters.  We  were  waiting  for  the  fruit  of  De- 
metrius’ efforts,  when  we  received  a visit  from  the 
chief  magistrate  of  the  village,  who  approached  us 
with  the  usual  salutation,  ora  liaHusin^  and  invited  us 
to  go  and  occupy  a fine  room  in  his  house. 

W e directed  Demetrius  to  interpret  to  him  our  lively 
gratitude  for  his  proffered  hospitality,  and  our  pressing 
haste  as  the  reason  Avhy  we  declined  the  honor  of  being 
entertained  by  so  respectable  a personage.  Demetrius 
performed  the  duty  assigned  to  him  in  a most  surly 
manner,  evidently  to  the  displeasure  of  the  funetion- 
ary,  and  then  turned  away  in  evident  anger.  Upon 
inquiry  we  learned  that  according  to  the  custom  in 
villages  where  there  is  no  public  house,  he  had  at  first 
applied  to  the  hospitable  Demarch,  informing  him  that 
two  gentlemen  and  a lady,  Franks,  wished  for  shelter 
for  an  hour.  He  was  rudely  answered  by  the  De- 
march, who  refused  to  reeeive  us  into  his  house.  He 
had  waited,  it  seems,  until  he  knew  it  would  be  impos- 
sible for  us  to  comply  with  his  invitation,  and  then 
came  with  proffers  of  kindness,  fearing,  probably,  that 
we  should  make  complaint  against  him  for  refusing 


188  Mountain  Scenery. 

what,  according  to  usage,  was  our  right.  He  urged 
his  suit  vehemently  and  ulmost  angrily.  He  begged 
us  to  stay  two  or  three  days  without  charge,  but  hav- 
ing discovered  his  insincerity  and  villany,  we  paid  little 
further  respect  to  this  servant  of  the  - crown,  but  were 
rather  willing  to  allow  him  to  discover  our  contempt. 

He  was  evidently  annoyed  at  the  coolness  with 
which  we  treated  his  overtures,  though  he  continued 
to  hover  about  till  we  were  ready  to  leave.  A military 
dignitary  honored  us  with  his  company,  having  his 
pistols  in  his  girdle.  Indeed,  no  inconsiderable  part 
of  the  population  of  this  humble  village  were  assem- 
bled before  we  had  finished  our  humble  repast,  and 
gazed  upon  us  and  all  our  operations  with  a ^taring 
curiosity,  which  showed  that  such  visitors  were  not 
often  seen  amongst  them. 

Our  road  to  Oropo  soon  brought  us  near  to  the  long 
sound  of  Negropont,  and  we  had  a beautiful  view  of 
an  extensive  range  of  the  coast  of  that  island.  The 
city  of  that  name,  and  another  small  town  which  our 
servant  called  Newtown — a translation,  no  doubt,  of  the 
Greek  -w'ords  having  this  meaning,  made  for  the  double 
purpose  of  making  the  matter  comprehensible  to  us,  and 
making  known  his  own  knowledge  of  English,  were 
visible  upon  the  opposite  shore,  and  had  a very  pretty 
appearance.  Some  half  a dozen  of  the  small  craft  of 
the  country  were  sailing  toward  these  small  ports,  in- 
dicating, no  doubt,  pretty  correctly,  their  commercial 
importance.  After  a narrow  strip  of  flat  land  along 
the  beach,  lofty  mountains  arise  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach  either  way  from  one  j)oint  of  view.  Far  beyond 


Transparent  Atmosphere.  189 


these  appeared  others  still  more  lofty  and  covered  with 
snow. 

One  of  these,  of  a conical  figure,  and  apparently  the 
highest  in  the  island,  had  been  visible  for  the  greater 
part  of  our  journey  from  Delphos.  It  had  attracted 
our  attention  and  remark  by  its  peculiar  and  resplen- 
dent whiteness.  I know  not  if  imagination  had  not 
much  to  do  with  the  impression,  but  it  seems  to  me 
that  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  this  country  have 
a lustre,  a dazzling  brightness  which  I have  nowhere 
else  observed.  I made  this  remark  when,  from  a dis- 
tant part  of  the  Morea,  I saw  the  white  tops  of  Parnas- 
sus and  Helicon.  The  impression  was  strengthened  at 
all  the  various  points  of  view  which,  in  a tortuous 
route  by  land  and  water,  in  valleys  and  over  high 
mountains,  I successively  occupied.  I am  sure  that 
the  atmosphere  of  Greece  has  a transparency  that  does 
not  belong  to  the  northern  climates  of  Europe.  I think 
that,  in  this  respect,  it  surpasses  Italy.  Distant  objects 
are  brought  nearer,  and  I have  several  times  been  sedu- 
ced into  a fatiguing  walk  or  ride  to  see  objects  which 
proved  to  be  greatly  more  remote  than  to  my  eye, 
trained  to  estimate  distances  in  a less  transparent  at- 
mosphere, they  had  seemed  to  be.  The  same  remark 
I had  frequent  occasion  to  make  in  Italy,  which,  how- 
ever, I think  is  inferior  to  Greece  in  this  respect. 

Our  path  was  along  the  beach  for  two  hours  or  more, 
and,  for  a great  part  of  the  distance,  in  the  water,  with 
a bold  high  shore  rising  far  above  our  heads.  It  was 
refreshing  to  breathe  the  pure  sea  air,  and  look  upon 
its  clear  blue  waters,  and  I could  not  but  be  struck 


190 


0 R O P O. 


with  the  contrast  between  nature  and  the  improve- 
ments of  civilization,  such  as  we  had  recently  seen 
them.  My  meditations,  it  is  true,  did  not  tend  to  a 
very  profound  philosophy.  I was  chiefly  struck  with 
the  reflection  that  God’s  works  are  all  clean — the  sea — 
the  blue  sky — the  green  fields  and  the  bare  mountains 
upon  which  my  eyes  had  so  often  wandered  of  late — 
all  are  clean^  and  I could  not  but  regard  the  prevailing 
and  disgusting  filthiness  that  fills  the  habitations  and 
dishonors  the  persons  of  the  people  with  whom  I had 
of  late  become  familiar,  as  proofs  of  depravity  as  well 
as  barbarism.  Surely  cleanliness  has  strong  claims  to 
a place  amongst  the  virtues.  Is  it  not  always  found 
where  eminent  moral  purity  exists  ? Does  not  the  op- 
posite vice  tend  to  corrupt  by  degrading  the  mind? 
Let  them  smile  upon  these  speculations  as  trivial,  who 
have  never  travelled  through  Greece  and  spent  twelve 
nights  in  a khan. 

We  slept  this  night  at  Oropo,  an  estate  belonging  to 
the  Eussian  consul  in  Athens.  It  is  an  extensive  and 
rich  tract  of  land,  which  he  purchased  at  a very  reduced 
price  of  the  Turks,  when,  at  the  close  of  the  war,  these 
fallen  tyrants  expected  to  be  expelled  from  Greece, 
and  were  fain  to  obtain  for  their  possessions  even  a 
part  of  'their  value.  The  house  where  we  took  lodg- 
ings is  occupied  by  his  agent,  and  is  of  a very  superior 
order  to  the  inns  to  which  we  had  lately  been  accus- 
tomed. We  had  a tolerably  clean  plank  to  sleep  upon. 
At  first  we  were  told  that  the  rooms  designed  for  trav- 
ellers were  all  occupied,  and  that  we  could  not  have  a 
place.  We  were  indebted  to  my  honorary  title  for  the 


Advantage  of  a Title. 


191 


comfortable  shelter  to  which  we  were  finally  admitted. 
The  occupant  of  the  house  was  ill,  and  after  refusing 
us  a place,  asked  Demetrius  if  either  of  the  gentlemen 
was  a doctor.  Yes,  was  the  reply.  Demetrius,  it 
seems,  had  all  along  taken  me  to  be  a jDhysician. 
They  then  agreed  that  we  should  occupy  a jDrivate 
apartment,  reserved,  I presume,  from  its  superior 
style,  for  the  use  of  the  owner  when  he  visits  his  estate. 

I had  hardly  entered  and  congratulated  my  friends 
upon  the  unwonted  comfort  we  were  allowed  to  enjoy, 
when  I received  an  invitation  to  visit  the  sick  man 
and  make  a prescription.  1 assured  Demetrius,  and 
through  him  the  sufferer,  that  I was  no  physician,  and 
explained,  as  well  as -I  could,  how  it  sometimes  may 
happen  that  a doctor  is  not  a physician.  The  sick 
man  was  sadly  disappointed,  and  even  angry.  He  ac- 
cused Demetrius  of  telling  a lie  to  obtain  lodgings. 
Against  this  charge,  Demetrius  indignantly  protested, 
solemnly  declaring,  I doubt  not,  with  perfect  sincerity, 
that  he  had,  up  to  that  moment,  believed  me  to  be  a 
doctor  of  physic.  I am  far  from  undervaluing  the  lit- 
erary title  which  I wish  I was  more  worthy  to  possess, 
but  I do  not  remember  that  I have  before  derived  from 
it  any  advantage  so  undoubted  and  satisfactory. 

We  met  with  Prof.  Moore,  of  Hew  York,  at  this 
place.  We  had  made  the  voyage  from  Trieste  to 
Athens  in  his  company.  He  had  just  set  out  to  visit 
the  interesting  places  embraced  in  our  tour,  but  had 
adopted  a reverse  order,  beginning  where  we  hope 
soon  to  end  the  excursion.  He  was  three  days  from 
Athens,  having  been  misled  by  his  guide. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


MARATHON. 

December  15th.  From  Oropo  to  Marathon  is  a dis- 
tance, according  to  our  guide,  of  eight  or  nine  hours. 
We  made  it  in  a little  more  than  six,  moving  only  in  a 
quick  walk.  We  stopped  at  a village  about  half  way 
to  prepare  some  refreshment,  and,  with  the  exception 
that  the  Demarch  did  not  disturb  us  with  his  civility, 
had  a fair  repetition  of  the  scene  of  yesterday.  • Our 
inn  was  again  but  a single  room,  used  both  for  a parlor 
and  a stable.  Our  horses  entered  by  the  same  door 
with  us,  into  the  same  apartment.  This  is  the  usual 
arrangement  in  Greece.  The  news  of  arrival  again 
assembled  the  villagers,  who  only  ceased  from  gazing 
at  us  intensely  when  we  had  mounted  the  horses  and 
left  the  place. 

These  people  remind  me*  more  and  more  every  day 
of  the  Xorth  American  Indian.  In  complexion  they 
are  lighter,  but  not  unlike  him.  They  have  the  same 
vaulting  walk,  the  same  erect  and  daring  attitude. 
Perhaps  the  strongest  part  of  the  likeness  is  in  dress. 
The  moccasin  of  raw  hide,  made  by  perforating  the 
edge  with  holes,  and  lacing  it  over  the  top  of  the  foot 


Dress. 


193 


with  strings,  is  decidedly  Indian.  So  is  the  coarse-stuff 
legging,  fitting  the  ankle  and  calf  of  the  leg  closely, 
and  tied  below  the  knee.  The  tunic,  too,  is  only  a 
white  shaggy  blanket,  hanging  down  not  quite  to  the 
knee,  with  holes  for  the  arms,  and  sometimes  with 
sleeves.  The  Greek  as  well 'as  the  Indian  wears  a 
large  knife  stuck  into  his  girdle,  with  the  handle  osten- 
tatiously exposed.  Their  habitations  are  as  similar  as 
the  difierence  of  climate  and  building  materials  will 
permit.  I speak  here  of  the  peasants  of  the  interior. 
The  dress  of  the  females  is  a little  different.  They  are 
barefooted.  Their  under-garment  reaches  to  the  ankles, 
and  is  usually  ornamented  with  a gay  border.  Over 
this  is  worn  a tunic  like  that  of  the  man,  reaching 
about  to  the  knee,  then  a sleeved-jacket,  reaching  only 
to  the  waist.  This  and  the  tunic  are  often  ornamented 
with  needle-work,  mostly  red,  in  front,  at  the  bottom, 
and  down  the  middle  of  the  back.  A kind  of 
sack  is  often  thrown  across  the  neck  before,  hanging 
to  the  waist  behind,  laden  with  a bunch  of  often  very 
large  beads,  and  little  metal  plates  of  the  size  of  the 
smallest  coin,  worn,  I suppose,  for  ornament,  and  as  an 
aid  to  devotion.  The  men  usually  wear  the  Greek  cap, 
which  is  always  scarlet,  high  and  cylindrical,  sur- 
mounted with  a tassel  of  blue,  hanging  from  the  centre 
of  the  crown.  As  a substitute  for  this,  I have  often 
noticed  a common  cotton  shawl  or  large  handkerchief ' 
wound  about  the  head,  not  unlike  the  turban.  The  fe- 
male peasantry  often  cover  the  head  in  much  the  same 
way.  In  the  larger  towns  there  is  some  variety  in 
their  head-dress,  and  many  of  them  wear  a red  or. 

y 


194  Plain  of  M a h a t n o n, 

yellow  shoe,  sharp  at  the  toe,  and  of  bungling  work-' 
manship. 

The  country  between  Oropp  and  Marathon  is  varie- 
gated, but  chiefly  mountainous  and  barren.  The  road 
must  be  called  good  here,  but  still  it  is  only  a path^ 
and  so  j^recipitous,  narrow,  and  obstructed  by  loose 
stones,  or  sharp  shelving  rocks,  that  in  America  I 
should  without  hesitation  have  pronounced  it  quite 
impassable,  and  should  have  thought  the  rash  man 
who  attempted  to  ride  over  it  was  doomed.  Here,  such 
is  the  effect  of  a fortnight’s  training,  and  such  confi- 
dence in  the  ill-looking  little  horse  of  Greece,  that  I 
threw  the  rope  carelessly  upon  his  neck,  to  ride  down 
or  up  the  mountain,  or  hang  upon  its  precipitous  sides 
without  any  concern. 

Before  entering  our  hotel  in  Marathon,  we  rode  over 
the  celebrated  field  of  battle  between  the  Athenians 
and  the  Persians.  It  answers  well  to  the  description 
given  of  it  by  historians;  only  the  plain  is  much 
more  extensive  than  I had  been  led  to  expect  to  see  it. 
I was  a full  hour  in  riding  across  it.  It  is  almost  a 
perfect  level,  though  it  seems  to  be  sufficiently  dry^ 
The  river  Marathon,  upon  which  the  left  flank  of  the 
Athenians  rested  for  protection  against  the  Persian 
cavalry,  is  now  perfectly  dry.  Nor  is  there  any  marsh 
to  answer  to  those  mentioned  by  the  historians.  Many 
such  changes  have  occurred  in  Greece,  and  one  every 
day  crosses  the  dry  channels  stated  by  the  ancient 
writers  to  have  been  rivers  in  their  age.  The  plain  is 
bounded  by  the  sea  on  one  side,  and  by  a semi-circle 
of  mountains  on  all  the  others. 


The  Battle  Field. 


195 


The  immense  army  of  the  Persians  was,  according  to 
the  historians,  drawn  up  across  the  plain  in  a line  par- 
allel to  the  sea  and  facing  the  mountains  ; the  Athe- 
nians at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  were  protected  on 
either  flank  against  the  overwhelming  numbers  of  their 
enemy  by  water  or  marsh.  If  the  river  was  then  flow- 
ing, as  no  doubt  it  was,  it  justifies  the  account,  as  far 
as  the  left  wing  was  concerned.  Perhaps,  too,  there 
was  a marsh  upon  the  right,  though  now  it  is  a dry 
corn-field.  The  surface,  however,  is  depressed  in  that 
part  of  the  plain,  and  the  changes  in  climate  or  other 
causes  which  have  certainly  dried  up  the  river,  would 
most  likely  exhale  the  moisture  of  the  marsh.  I have 
seen  it  objected  to  the  received  accounts  of  this  battle, 
that  there  is  not  room  for  the  evolutions  of  such 
armies. 

I felt  at  first  sight  of  this  noble  area  that  this  objec- 
tion is  groundless.  The  host  of  Xerxes  might  have 
encamped  upon  it.  An  opinion  which  has  gained 
some  currency,  transfers  the  contest  from  the  semi- 
circle of  mountains  to  the  pass  between  the  sea  and 
Mount  Pentelicus,  which  is  a mile  and  a half  nearer 
Athens.  This  position  would  have  suited  the  small 
band  of  Grrecians  admirably,  by  giving  perfect  security 
to  their  flanks  and  by  contracting  their  enemy’s  front 
to  the  length  of  their  own  little  host.  It  would  have 
guarded  also  the  most  important  pass  to  Attica.  This 
theory,  however,  seems  to  me  to  contradict  the  ac- 
counts given  by  ancient  historians. 

There  is  near  the  centre  of  the  plain  an  immense 
earthen  mound,  said,  but  rather  improbably,  to  have 


196 


Kude  Monuments. 


been  raised  over  tlie  slaughtered  Persians.  It  was 
more  probably  reared  by  the  victors  in  honor  of  their 
own  countrymen.  There  are  also  at  no  great  distance 
the  ruins  of  two  ancient  edifices,  pronounced  by  his- 
tory and  tradition  to  be  monuments  of  those  who  had 
a part  in  that  great  day. 

Many  doubts  have  been  raised  upon  this  point,  and 
a popular  traveller,  whose  work  I had  in  my  hand 
whilst  surveying  these  ruins,  declares  that  none  exist 
except  some  brick  foundations  in  quite  another  part 
of  the  plain.  Yet  I saw,  as  everybody  may  see,  mas- 
sive blocks  of  Pentelic  marble,  evidently  ancient,  and 
the  remains  of  some  great  demolished  structure.  There 
are  two  such  ruinous  heaps  not  more  than  fifty  yards 
apart.  Doubtless  they  were  rude  monuments,  reared 
in  honor  of  the  brave,  by  their  grateful  country. 

I have  been  curious  in  my  travels  to  visit  the  thea- 
tres of  great  battles,  not,  I trust,  from  admiration  of 
deeds  of  blood.  The  battle  field,  however,  decides  the 
fate  of  nations — modifies  for  better  or  worse  the  vari- 
ous forms  of  human  government,  and  retards  or  some- 
times promotes  the  progress  of  human  happiness.  They 
are  often  the  landmarks  of  history.  They  usher  in  new 
eras  in  the  affairs  of  men.  It  is  instructive  and  in- 
spiring to  stand  upon  such  ground  and  contemplate 
the  vast  results  which  have  sprung  from  the  achieve- 
ments or  disasters  of  a single  day.  To  my  mind,  his- 
tory never  speaks  so  distinctly  as  when  I stand  upon 
the  spot  where  its  heroes  acted  their  parts.  I make  a 
detour  very  often  to  visit  the  grave  or  the  birth-place 
of  a great  man,  or  the  locale  of  a great  event.  In  the 


Plain  of  Marathon. 


197 


same  spirit  I made  a journey  of  two  days  to  visit  the 
plain  of  Marathon.  I had  from  my  boyhood  looked 
upon  the  conflict  of  which  this  field  was,  two  thousand 
three  hundred  years  since,  the  bloody  theatre,  as  one 
of  the  most  interesting  recorded  in  history.  I had 
formed  in  my  imagination  a picture  of  Marathon — of 
its  semi-circle  of  mountains,  from  which  the  brave 
Greeks  rushed  upon  their  foes — and  of  the  sea  upon 
which  the  discomfited  Persians  found  a refuge  after 
they  had  crimsoned  its  shores  with  their  blood. 

The  sight  of  this  plain  verifies  the  historical  narra- 
tive in  a most  satisfactory  manner.  So  just  had  been 
my  impressions,  that  P found  myself  looking  upon  the 
whole  scene  as  one  with  which  I had  formerly  been 
familiar.  My  impressions  were  erroneous  in  one  re- 
spect only.  I found  everything  on  a much  larger  scale 
than  I had  imagined.  This  was  precisely  the  reverse 
of  what  I have  felt  with  regard  to  other  places  which 
I have  seen  in  Greece.  My  imagination  had  expanded 
the  cities  and  states  of  this  classic  and  heroic  land  into 
dimensions,  suited  in  some  degree  to  the  illustrious 
achievements  of  which  they  have  been  the  theatres  as 
well  as  the  actors ; and  it  has  often  cost  me  an  efibrt  to 
maintain  undiminished  my  admiration  for  gallant  re- 
publics and  kingdoms,  through  whose  entire  temtories 
my  horse  could  walk  in  two  hours. 

I had  no  such  difficulty  at  Marathon.  The  height 
and  grandeur  of  the  mountains,  and  the  great  extent 
of  the  plain,  far  surpassed  my  conception  of  them,  and 
tended  greatly  to  enhance  my  ideas  of  the  splendid 
heroism  and  immense  results  of  this  most  important  of 


198 


Battle  of  Marathon. 


battles.  When  we  look  at  this  action  as  a brilliant 
display  of  courage  and  skill — when  we  admire  the 
handful  of  intrepid  men  who  braved  and  overwhelmed 
the  mighty  host  of  enemies  who  came  to  take  away 
their  liberty,  we  have  taken  only  a narrow  and  un- 
philosophical  view  of  the  subject.  We  must  consider 
that  Greece  at  that  time  contained  the  learning,  the 
liberty,  and  the  civilization  of  the  whole  world.  The 
Persian  invasion  was  an  assault  of  barbarism  upon 
civilization.  The  battle  of  Marathon  was  a conflict 
between  light  and  darkness.  Had  the  Persian  host 
prevailed,  who  can  estimate  the  influence  upon  the 
future  destinies  of  the  race  ? Greece  would  have  be- 
come a province  of  this  immense  despotism.  Her 
shining  galaxy  of  free  and  independent  republics, — ^in- 
considerable certainly  in  wealth  and  extent,  but  on 
that  very  account  more  favorable  to  liberty,  to  the 
growth  of  manly  principles  and  high  sentiments — to 
the  elaborations  of  just  political  sentiments — to  the  im- 
provement of  the  individual  and  of  the  social  condition 
of  man — would  have  been  extinguished. 

Even  in  Greece,  civilization  was  not  yet  fully  de- 
veloped. She  was  not  yet  prepared  to  be  the  teacher 
of  nations.  Her  literature  and  her  arts  were  in  com- 
parative infancy.  Phidias  and  Praxitiles  were  unborn. 
Thucydides  and  Xenophon  had  not  written.  Aristotle 
and  Plato  had  not  taught  mankind.  Greece  was  as  yet 
but  a nursery  full  of  the  germinating  seeds  of  knowl- 
edge and  improvement.  But  she  had  not  yet  com- 
menced her  mission  as  the  teacher  of  the  nations.  Had 
Persia  prevailed  at  Marathon,  this  mission  would  never 


Its  Mighty  Consequences.  199 


have  been  accomplished.  Providence  might  have  ac- 
complished the  work  by  other  means,  but  for  aught 
that  appears,  ages  upon  ages  of  ignorance  and  barba- 
rism would  have  been  the  consequence.  Eome,  who 
was  proud  to  acknowledge  her  obligations  to  Grreece 
for  the  arts  and  seiences,  would  only  have  spread  bar- 
barism with  her  conquests,  and  Britain,  Gaul,  and  Ger- 
many, who  received  civilization  in  exchange  for  their 
wild  independence,  might  have  teemed  with  naked 
savages,  such  as  fought  against  Julius  Cassar.  Milti- 
ades  and  the  Athenians  fought  at  Marathon  for  the 
civilization  of  mankind  in  all  future  time.  Then  vic- 
tory, all  but  miraculo^s,  rolled  back  the^  desolating 
tide,  and  secured  not  the  country  only,  but  the  world. 

Marathon  was  the  forerunner  of  Thermopyla3,  Salamis, 
and  Platea,  It  was  easy  for  Greece  to  conquer  bar- 
barians after  Athens  had  demonstrated  its  praetica- 
bility.  The  impulse  which  achieved  all  these  victories 
was  given  at  Marathon.  The  devotion  of  Leonidas  and 
his  Spartans  was  nothing  to  the  feat  of  Miltiades  and 
liis  Athenians.  They  first  established  the  principle 
that  civilization  contains  an  element  of  strength,  inde- 
pendent of  numerical  force.  All  the  glorious  events 
of  the  first  and  second  invasions  by  Persia  flowed  from 
this  great  achievement  naturally,  and  almost  of  course. 
It  inspired  the  Greeks  with  confidence  in  themselves, 
in  discipline,  in  intelligence,  in  freedom.  From  that 
day  liberty  and  learning  and  civilization  were  conse- 
crated in  the  general  estimation,  as  not  only  the  glorj^, 
but  also  the  safe-guard  of  Greece. 

The  progress  of  society  was  amazingly  accelerated. 


200  Battle  of  Cii^ronea. 

All  the  arts  and  sciences,  for  which  we  are  indebted  to 
the  ancients,  speedily  attained  to  perfection.  In  the 
brief  period  that  elapsed  from  the  Persian  to  the  Pelo- 
ponnesian war,  architecture,  sculpture,  history  and  elo- 
quence, attained  an  excellence  which  has  never  since 
been  equalled. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  event  in  the  history  of  Greece, 
upon  which  most  men  are  accustomed  to  look  with 
more  lively  regret,  than  its  subjugation  to  Philip  of 
Macedon.  The  battle  of  Chosronea  is  spoken  of  as  the 
final  destruction  of  the  glory  of  Greece.  In  what  did 
that  glory  consist  ? In  her  free  institutions?  These 
were  immensely  valuable  no  doubt,  as  they  hastened 
the  development  of  a higli  civilization.  It  is  in  this 
light  we  are  to  look  upon  Greece  as  the  civilizer  of  the 
world.  Her  republics,  her  freedom,  were  nothing  only 
as  they  tended  to  this  great  end.  More  faction  and 
disorder — less  of  security  — did  not  perhaps  exist 
amongst  any  people  on  earth.  Yet  was  it  a state  of 
things  precisely  the  most  favorable  for  qualifying 
Greece  to  enter  upon  the  mission  to  which  she  was 
destined.  Iler  civilization,  however,  was  fully  devel- 
oped before  the  battle  of  Chseronea.  The  successful 
diffusion  of  this  civilization  called  for  a different  politi- 
cal organization. 

The  multitude  of  petty  sovereignties,  jealous  and 
belligerent  ever,  was  incompatible  with  this  duty. 
Division  and  rivalry  had  nurtured  and  developed  civili- 
zation. For  its  dissemination  union  and  subordination 
were  requisite.  These  the  battle  of  ChoBronea  produced. 
It  subordinated  the  jarring  and  heterogeneous  elements 


Meditations  at  Marathon.  201 


to  one  controlling  influence.  It  prepared  tlie  way  for 
combined  and  efficient  action.  It  enabled  Alexander, 
at  the  head  of  the  Greeian  race,  to  subvert  the  great 
barbarian  power  in  Asia,  and  establish  in  its  stead 
Grecian  rule,  and  with  it  science  and  civilization.  In 
this  view,  which  is  the  only  broad  philosophical  one, 
the  battles  of  Marathon  and  Chaeronea  were  but  sepa- 
rate triumphs  of  the  same  principle.  They  tended  alike 
to  fulfil  the  mission  to  which  Greece  was  destined  by 
Divine  Providence — the  civilization  of  the  world. 

The  establishment  of  the  power  and  diffusion  of  the 
letters  of  Greece  over  so  large  a part  of  the  earth,  be- 
came a most  important  means  for  the  spread  of  the  gos- 
pel of  Christ.  All  who  have  taken  large  views  of  the 
subject  have  seen  the  hand  of  Providence  visibly  dis- 
played in  preparing  the  way  of  the  Messiah,  in  the  gen- 
eral diffusion  of  the  arts,  the  philosophy,  and,  above 
all,  of  the  language  of  the  most  civilized  people  in  the 
world.  The  Greek  had  become  the  universal  language. 
All  men  who  read,  or  reasoned,  or  wrote,  employed  it  as 
the  vehicle  of  thought.  When  the  apostles,  therefore, 
spoke  or  wrote  the  precepts  of  the  new  religion,  they, 
of  course,  adopted  it ; and  by  this  means  had  the  world 
for  their  audience.  Doubtless,  God  could  and  might 
have  found  other  means  for  the  diffusion  of  Ilis  word. 
Still,  He  chose  to  employ  this  widely-diffused  language 
in  giving  to  all  nations  a knowledge  of  His  saving 
truth,  and,  we  are  compelled  to  believe,  prepared  the 
way  for  it  by  directing  the  events  which  had  made  the 
language  of  Greece  universal.  The  fate  of  the  language 
was  suspended  on  the  field  of  Marathon.  Had  a dif- 

9* 


202  'Meditations  at  Marathon. 

ferent  result  followed  tlie  confliet  upon  tliat  renowned 
plain,  the  language,  the  civilization  and  the  power  of 
Greeee  would  have  been  obscured  together. 

In  such  meditations  I indulged  on  the  field  of  Mara- 
thon. And  thus  it  was  that  Miltiades  and  his  gallant 
host  stood  up  before  me  as  the  champions  of  civilization 
and  moral  light — as  fighting  not  for  Athens,  but  for 
mankind.  And  thus  their  memory,  their  cause,  and 
the  field  where  they  triumphed,  were  hallowed.  I ad- 
mired the  Divine  wisdom  that  prepared  afar  off,  and 
in  days  of  old,  for  the  diffusion  of  light  and  life.  It 
was  the  eve  of  the  Sabbath,  and  I trust  I was  led  by 
the  scene  before  me  into  a train  of  reflections  not  un- 
suited to  the  holy  season. 


C|  f (i  rl  it  t ir  Porn. 


V 


Snrc7\h(iicn‘ 


1 

I 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 

My  first  general  view  of  Constantinople  was  from 
Mount  Bourgaloue,  to  whose  summit,  shaded  by  low 
spreading  pines,  Turks  as  well  as  strangers  frequently 
resort,  for  the  extensive  view  it  commands  of  the  city 
and  its  environs.  The  undulating  surface  of  this  beau- 
tiful city  appears  to  the  spectator  from  this  point  like 
a level,  so  that  its  principal  charm  is  lost  by  the  too 
great  elevation.  Everything,  however,  is  distinctly 
seen.  The  seraglio  has  the  appearance  of  a forest  or- 
namented with  summer-houses.  The  noble  line  of 
mosques,  that  occupy  the  ridge  of  the  promontory  be- 
tween the  Marmora  and  the  Golden  Horn,  is  better 
seen  than  from  any  other  point  of  view.  I counted 
ten  of  these  immense  structures,  which  tower  above 
the  city,  as  well  as  the  hundreds  of  other  mosques  in- 
ferior to  them  in  their  dimensions  or  position.  Hot 
less  than  eight  barracks  for  the  army  are  seen,  chiefly 
in  the  outskirts  of  the  town, — all  extensive,  magnifi- 
cent estabhshments,  occupying  commanding  sites. 

Small  clumps  of  cypresses  in  different  parts  of  the 
town,  and  large  forests  in  the  suburbs,  mark  the  sites 


206 


Extensive  View. 


of  the  cities  of  the  dead,  which  occupy  more  ground 
than  the  habitations  of  the  living.  A multitude  of 
ships  in  the  harbor,  between  Constantinople  and  Pera, 
as  well  as  in  the  Bosphorus,  seemed  to  form  a connec- 
tion amongst  the  disjointed  members  of  the  great  city. 
The  view  of  the  winding  Bosphorus,  and  of  the  towns, 
palaces,  and  villages  which  line  the  European  shore, 
as  well  as  the  gardens  that  cover  the  slopes  of  the  hills, 
is  truly  magnificent.  It  extends  above  Buyuk-dere  to 
the  distance  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  miles.  The  eye 
ranges  over  a vast  region  in  the  interior,  composed  of 
hills  and  valleys,  little  cultivated,  which  appear  to  be 
an  immense  plain,  bounded  by  the  horizon.  In  the 
direction  of  the  Black  Sea,  the  forest  of  Belgrade 
covers  a large  tract. 

South  of  Constantinople  are  seen  the  edifices  and 
villages  that  cover  the  shore  of  Marmora  with  little  in- 
termission to  St.  Stephano.  The  Marmora  • stretches 
south  beyond  the  reach  of  vision,  which  extends  to  a 
large  island  in  its  bosom.  Thence  the  view  is  bound- 
ed by  a range  of  mountains  that  rise  beyond  the  gulf. 
Near  the  head  of  the  gulf,  and  at  the  distance  of  a hun- 
dred miles,  the  snowy  tops  of  Olympus  glitter  in  the 
sunbeams  and  dazzle  the  eye  by  their  brightness. 

Withdrawing  our  attention  from  this  distant  and 
glorious  object.  Prince’s  islands,  six  in  number,  rise 
from  the  Marmora  five  or  six  miles  distant.  Scutari 
is  scarcely  visible,  as  its  aspect  is  west,  but  on  the 
shore,  a mile  below,  is  the  ancient  site  of  Chalcedon, 
now  a mean  village,  but  beautified  with  many  trees.  An 
immense  forest  of  cypresses,  shading  Mussulman  tombs. 


Mount  Bourgaloue.  207 

extends  from  near  this  village  east  for  several  miles. 
Between  this  and  the  Marmora  a part  of  the  Sultan’s 
army  lay  encamped,  their  green  tents  and  floating  ban- 
ners presenting  a fine  appearance. 

Looking  east,  with  the  back  towards  the  city,  the 
eye  commands  a noble  view  of  the  region  stretching 
from  the  sea  of  Marmora — ^the  bay  of  Nicomedia,  as 
the  arm  of  it  is  called— to  the  Bosphorus  and  Euxine. 
It  is  the  ancient  Bithynia — a region  of  hills  and  val- 
leys, bounded  by  very  distant  mountains,  which  seem 
to  encompass  it  in  the  form  of  a semi-circle.  Farms 
and  clumps  of  trees  are  seen  at  intervals,  but  the  love- 
ly region  is  mostly  waste. 

As  we  descended,  we  met  several  Turks  going  up 
with  their  pipes.  Servants  carried  carpets,  mats,  and 
other  appliances,  to  make  their  stay  agreeable.  Their 
horses,  finely  caparisoned,  waited  at  a distance.  Still 
nearer  the  village,  which  occupies  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  we  passed  a company  of  Turkish  women 
veiled,  eating  sweatmeats.  They  made  the  ascent  in 
vehicles  drawn  by  oxen,  and  furnished  with  cushions 
ornamented  with  tassels,  instead  of  seats,  to  enjoy  the 
shade  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day.  We  were  an 
hour  and  a half  descending  the  mountain.  We  saw 
on  our  way  an  Armenian  cemetery,  cultivated  like  a 
garden,  with  tombs  similar  to  those  of  Europeans,  and 
the  kiosk  where  Mahmoud,  the  late  Sultan,  died.  In 
recrossing  the  Bosphorus,  we  passed  near  a small  cir- 
cular structure,  built  on  a rock  that  rises  in  the  sea. 
Many  traditions  are  afloat  about  its  origin  and  design. 
It  is  the  point  to  which  chains  were  fastened,  one  of 


208  Tomb  of  Sultan  Ahmed. 


which  extended  to  the  Asiatic  and  the  other  to  the 
European  shore,  to  guard  the  entrance  of  the  Bos- 
phorus. Formerly  some  guns  were  mounted  here.  It 
is  now,  it  is  said,  used  as  a 'lighthouse,  though  it  had 
none  of  the  usual  appearances  of  one. 

I passed  from  Galata  to  Stamboul  with  Mr.  Hamlin, 
at  4 P.M.  The  city  wall  is  at  some  distance  from  the 
water,  the  space  between  being  built  up.  The  custom- 
house, where  we  landed,  is  a handsome,  solid  building, 
with  large  ware-houses  annexed.  Soon  after  passing 
the  gate,  we  came  to  the  tomb  of  Sultan  Ahmed.  It 
is  a beautiful  structure  of  white  marble,  with  rounded 
corners  and  a dome.  It  has  a fountain  and  court  full 
of  trees,  and  is  itself  a place  for  prayer,  being  carpeted 
and  matted.  The  Sultan’s  tomb  is  in  the  centre,  under 
the  dome.  It  is  so  concealed  by  the  coverings  of  rich 
shawls,  that  its  model  cannot  be  seen.  It  is  of  beauti- 
ful marble,  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  eight  high,  and  six 
wide,  with  a turbaned  head  upon  its  higher  end.  It  is 
enclosed  by  a light  railing,  adorned  with  mother  of 
pearl  mosaic.  Above  it  is  suspended  a splendid  chan- 
delier. 

A number  of  smaller  tombs  of  similar  form,  erected 
probably  in  remembrance  of  other  members  of  his 
family,  fill  the  edifice.  All  are  covered  with  rich 
shawls,  and  the  whole  has  a splendid  appearance. 
Some  men  were  engaged  in  prayer,  which  they  left  to 
drive  us  from  the  door.  We  proceeded  to  the  wall 
which  separates  the  Seraglio  from  the  town,  and  fol- 
lowed its  course  to  St.  Sophia,  a distance  of  perhaps 
half  a mile.  It  is  ancient,  of  stone  intermingled  with 


Ancient  Hippodrome.  209 

bricks,  surmounted  with  turrets,  and  strengthened 
with  square  towers.  Opposite  to  a gate  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Seraglio  is  the  gate  which  leads  to  the  Grand 
Yizier’s  palace,  separated  from  the  Seraglio  by  a street. 
The  palace  was  burnt  some  time  since.  The  site  is 
very  large.  There  were  no  signs  of  re-building,  but  I 
observed  two  large  granite  columns  on  the  spot.  Be- 
tween the  entrance  of  the  Seraglio  and  St.  Sophia  is  a 
large  fountain  of  marble,  gorgeously  decorated  with 
gold.  By  means  of  a small  bucksheesh  we  passed  into 
three  courts  of  the  Seraglio.  We  walked  into  St. 
Sophia  also ; and,  despite  the  wonder  and  the  hostile 
demonstrations  of  a group  of  Mohammedan  boys, 
seated  near  the  entrance  with  their  school-master,  I 
advanced  into  the  interior,  and  was  enabled,  in  the 
brief  time  allowed  me  by  their  indecision,  to  obtain  a 
good  view  of  this  venerable  and  imposing  edifice.  The 
boys,  however,  followed  me,  and  joined  as  they  were 
by  some  men,  they  soon  disregarded  the  air  of  stern 
authority  I assumed ; and  throwing  stones  at  me,  and 
manifesting  by  unequivocal  signs  their  anger  at  the  in- 
trusion of  a Frank  into  their  holy  place,  they  obliged 
me  to  make  good  my  retreat,  which  I happily  did 
•without  receiving  any  injury. 

A little  south  of  this  mosque  is  that  of  Sultan  Ach- 
met.  We  looked  at  the  noble  courts  and  gallery,  but 
declined  the  invitation  to  enter  for  a bucksheesh.  Im- 
mediately west  is  the  Atmeidan,  or  horse  course — the 
ancient  Hippodrome — a quadrangle  of  three  hundred 
yards  long,  by  a hundred  and  fifty  wide.  It  was  former- 
ly much  more  extensive.  There  are  some  interesting 


210  Obelisk — Spikal  Pillar. 


antiquities:  an  obelisk  from  Thebes,  the  pedestal  of  white 
marble,  under  wliieh  are  blocks  of  red  granite.  It  con- 
tains bas  reliefs,  a good  deal  damaged.  One  represents 
machinery  by  which  the  obelisk  Avas  raised — men  pull- 
ing at  ropes,  &c.,  in  the  presence  of  the  emperor  and 
suite.  Another  side  has  a continuation  of  the  same 
subject,  and  below  a Latin  inscription,  signifying  that 
Theodosius  reared  in  a short  time  this  pillar,  Avhich 
had  proved  too  difficult  a Avork  for  his  predecessors. 
The  third  side  represents  chariot  races,  Avhich  probably 
took  place  on  the  occasion.  The  fourth  has  the  in- 
scription in  Greek.  The  obelisk,  Avhich  may  be  fifty 
feet  in  height,  rests  on  four  brass  pillars  standing  upon 
the  pedestal,  from  Avhich  it  is  elevated  about  one  foot. 
It  is  in  good  preservation.  The  hieroglyphics  have 
not  suffered  perceptibly  from  time,  their  angles  being 
still  sharp  and  perfect.  On  the  north  it  is  discolored, 
and  covered  partially  Avith  short  moss, — a fact  that 
points  to  the  quarter  Avhence  the  cold  rains  approach. 

A fcAV  yards  south  of  the  obelisk  is  the  celebrated 
spiral  pillar  Avhich  once  supported  a pillar  at  Delphos. 
It  is  of  brass,  formed  of  three  huge  serpents  tAvisted 
together,  growing  smaller  toAvards  the  top,  from  Avhich 
the  heads  of  the  serpents  are  broken.  It  may  be  fifteen 
feet  high,  and  it  is  much  battered,  and  filled  Avith 
stones.  One  hole  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  a can- 
non shot  in  the  Avar  Avith  the  Janissaries,  under  the 
late  Sultan.  The  diameter  is  from  tAvelve  to  fifteen 
inches. 

A little  farther  south,  and  in  a line  Avith  the  tAvo  ob- 
jects just  described,  is  the  lofty  square  column  of  Con- 


Cistern  of  B in-b i r-d e r e k.  211 

stantine  Porpliyrogenitus,  built  of  blocks  of  marble, 
and  covered  originally  with  plates  of  metal,  as  is  mani- 
fest from  tbe  boles  of  the  nails  wbicb  ap]3ear  in  tlic 
stones.  The  marbles  are  loose,  and  threaten  to  fall. 
The  Atmeidan  is  stiU  used  for  equestrian  fetes. 

At  the  distance  of  less  than  half  a mile,  on  the 
Adrianople  street,  is  the  burnt  column,  an  immense 
pillar,  nearly  a hundred  feet  high,  which  has  its  name 
from  having  been  discolored  and  fractured  by  the  fre- 
quent fires  that  raged  around  it.  It  is  so  built  around 
as  to  be  unapproachable,  but,  as  seen  from  the  street, 
it  has  the  appearance  of  porphyry.  The  joints  of  the 
column  are  or  were  concealed  by  metal  hoops,  much 
out  of  place.  Wreaths  wrought  in  the  stone  also  en- 
compass it  at  certain  distances.  A statue  of  Apollo 
once  surmounted  it.  A Greek  inscription  is  seen  near 
the  top,  which  I was  enabled  to  decipher.'^ 

A few  rods  south  of  the  Adrianople  street  is  a curi- 
ous ancient  cistern,  now  partially  dilapidated  and  a 
good  deal  filled  up.  It  was  once  used  in  supplying  the 
city  with  water,  which  it  probably  received  from  the 
aqueduct  of  Valens.  It  is  an  immense  reservoir, 
formed  of  thick  solid  walls,  and  covered  with  a roof  of 
many  arehes,  supported  by  a vast  number  of  columns. 

It  was  too  dark  to  count  them,  but  the  number  is 
stated  at  424.  It  is  from  this  colonnade  that  it  derives 
the  name  of  Bin-bir-derek,  or  thousand  and  one  col- 
umns. It  is  entered  by  a door  on  the  south  side,  which 

* “ By  tlie  inscription  -we  learned  ‘ that  that  admirable  piece  of  • 
workmanship  was  restored  by  the  most  pious  emperor,  Manuel 
Commenes.’  Tournefort’s  Voyage  in  the  Levant.”  1741. 


212 


Ancient  Cistern. 


leads  to  a flight  of  wooden  steps.  It  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a mound  of  earth  rising  eight  or  ten  feet  above 
the  common  level.  There  is  a considerable  accumula- 
tion of  rubbish  on  the  arched  roof.  Several  holes, 
broken  through  the  roof  by  accident  or  design,  admit 
a feeble  light.  At  noon  it  is  sufficient  for  the  purposes 
of  the  tenants  of  this  subterranean  abode — a dozen  or 
more  wretched,  sickly -looking  silk  spinners,  who  were 
engaged  in  their  occupation  in  the  dim  twilight,  which 
had  already  settled  upon  these  vaults  at  4 o’clock  in 
the  afternoon,  though  the  regions  above  were  enjoying 
a brilliant  sunshine.  The  ground  was  damp.  We 
were  conducted  to  a spring,  the  only  water  now  in  this 
cistern,  of  which  we  were  urged  to  drink,  and  assured 
that  the  quality  is  excellent. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


WALLS  AND  TOWERS. 

June  23, 1840.  I set  out  at  about  eight  this  morning 
from  Pera,  the  Frank  quarter  of  Constantinople,  to  make 
an  excursion  to  the  Seven  Towers.  We  crossed  the 
Golden  Horn  upon  the  long  bridge,  not  less  certainly 
than  half  a mile  long,  built  of  wood,  and  resting  upon 
floating  rafts  of  timber.  It  is  but  little  raised  above  the 
water,  except  at  two  points,  where  there  are  arches  of 
considerable  elevation  to  allow  boats  to  pass  under 
them.  At  the  same  points  are  draws,  which  are  raised 
when  a ship  of  war  goes  to  sea  from  the  navy -yard 
immediately  above,  or  returns  for  repairs.  Merchant 
vessels  cannot  pass  above  the  bridge.  Their  most 
crowded  resorts  are  immediately  below  it,  on  both  sides 
of  the  Golden  Horn.  This  bridge  is  in  a sheltered  sit- 
uation, where  heavy  winds  and  seas  have'  little  power 
upon  it.  It  is  secured  in  its  position  by  a multitude 
of  anchors  and  strong  cables  attached  to  its  timbers, 
-at  intervals  of  only  a few  feet.  No  tolls  are  paid  by 
passengers,  and  the  bridge  is  much  used,  though 
above  the  business  parts  of  Pera,  Galata,  and  Constan- 
tinople. 


214 


Greek  Quarter. 


\Yc  obtained  horses  at  the  south  end  of  the  bridge,  and 
entering  the  city  by  the  nearest  gate,  proceeded  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  wall  in  a western  direction.  Our 
route,  which  we  chose  at  hazard,  willing  to  see  as  much 
of  the  city  as  possible,  lay  through  the  quarters  occu- 
pied by  the  Jews  and  Greeks.  Ballat,  or  the  J ews’  town, 
is  perhaps  the  worst  part  of  Constantinople,  the  streets 
more  uncleanly  and  confined,  and  the  houses  in  a more 
ruinous,  neglected  condition.  Few  of  them  are  paint- 
ed,— all,  or  nearly  so,  are  built  of  wood,  and  the  boards 
hang  loose  and  ready  to  fall.  The  windows  are  broken 
and  not  glazed,  and  the  open  doors  of  the  lower  rooms 
disclosed  scenes  of  filth  and  poverty.  The  shops,  of 
which  we  passed  a great  many,  are  very  meanly  sup- 
plied with  only  the  most  common  provisions  and  ar- 
ticles of  merchandise.  The  large  dealers  and  wealthy 
Jews,  of  whom  there  are  many  here,  transact  business 
in  other  parts  of  the  city.  I have  been  assured  that 
even  in  these  mean,  ruinous  houses,  comfort  and  even 
elegance  and  refinement  may  often  be  found.  The 
rapacity  and  injustice  to  which  these  unfortunate  peo- 
ple, even  more  than  others,  have  long  been  subjected 
in  this  country,  have  produced  habits  of  caution.  Ap- 
parent wretchedness  is  adopted  as  the  best  safeguard 
for  real  affluence  and  independence. 

The  aspect  of  the  Fanar  or  Greek  quarter  is  decid- 
edly superior  to  that  of  the  Jews.  The  houses  are 
more  spacious  and  in  better  rejoair.  They  are  favor- 
ably distinguished  from  those  of  the  Turks  by  the  ab- 
sence of  lattice-work  from  the  windows.  The  habits 
of  the  Greeks  in  this  respect  are  more  European  than 


Greek  Church. 


215 


Oriental.  The  women  appear  in  Frank  costume,  and 
wear  no  veils.  Indeed,  their  national  characteristics 
are  rapidly  disappearing,  and  the  Greeks  of  Constan- 
tinople seem  likely  to  become  fully  Europeanized,  even 
sooner  than  their  brethren  in  their  native  land.  No 
Greek,  however,  any  more  than  a Jew,  is  allowed  to 
paint  his  house  in  gay  colors.  These  belong  to  the 
Turk,  who  alone  may  employ  bright  yellow,  green, 
and  white. 

We  dismounted  to  enter  a Greek  church,  which  is 
inclosed  by  a high  wall  in  a large  court.  - It  is  a plain 
but  respectable  edifice,  in  good  repair,  and  decorated 
in  the  Greek  style  with  many  small  paintings  and  en- 
gravings. The  Yirgin  Mary  has  the  place  of  undis- 
puted pre-eminence  in  the  pictorial  part  of  their  relig- 
ion, no  less  than  among  the  Catholics.  This  church, 
as  I learned  on  a second  visit  to  this  part  of  the  city, 
belongs  to  the  Bishop  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre. 

After  leaving  the  Church,  we  passed  out  of  the  city 
at  the  Egri  Kapoussi,  or  oblique  gate,  which  is  in  the 
western  wall,  near  the  north-western  angle,  and  a short 
distance  only  from  the  Golden  Horn.  We  found  our- 
selves at  once  in  a vast  field  of  graves,  filled  with  Turk- 
ish monuments  and  shaded  with  cypresses.  A paved 
road  runs  parallel  with  the  wall  from  this  point  south 
to  the  sea  of  Marmora.  Turning  to  the  left  into  this 
highway,  the  best  I have  yet  seen  in  Turkey,  we  soon 
reached  a fountain  built  against  the  wall,  which  seems 
to  be  a place  of  considerable  resort.  Tlie  water  de- 
signed for  the  use  of  the  neighborhood  runs  through  a 


216 


City  Walls. 


pipe  into  a marble  reservoir,  situated  in  the  usual  man- 
ner on  the  outside  of  the  building.  We  passed  through 
a door  into  a large  room,  which  receives  from  the  aque- 
duct of  Yalens  a large  quantity  of  water  designed  for 
the  supply  of  this  part  of  the  city.  It  is  poured  into 
a large  marble  basin  by  a multitude  of  pipes,  through 
» which  it  is  filtered,  and  flows  off  in  a copious  stream 
to  its  destination.  The  play  of  the  water  produces  an 
agreeable  coolness  in  the  atmosphere,  and  a number  of 
cane-chairs  or  stools  are  placed  upon  an  elevated  part 
of  the  marble  floor,  where  the  Turks,  during  the  heat 
of  the  day,  enjoy  their  favorite  luxury  of  smoking. 

The  west  wall  of  Constantinople  has  an  appearance 
of  great  antiquity,  and  was  probably  built  by  the  Greek 
emperors.  Tiles  are  mingled  without  much  order  in 
the  rough  stone  masonry  of  which  it  is  composed. 
Many  parts  are  in  a ruinous  condition,  though  nowhere 
quite  prostrate.  These  bulwarks  might  be  of  some  use 
in  resisting  an  assault,  but  would  be  easily  demolished 
by  a battery  of  heavy  ordnance.  There  are  two  par- 
allel walls,  the  interior  the  highest,  distant  from  each 
other  perhaps  twenty  or  thirty  feet.  This  space  is  in 
many  places  full  of  rubbish  and  planted  with  trees. 
Both  walls  are  surmounted  by  small  turrets,  and  along 
the  outer  at  short  intervals  are  massive  towers,  square, 
round,  and  octagonal,  which  rise  forty  or  sixty  feet  in 
height.  Outside  of  the  towers  is  a fosse,  twenty  or 
twenty 'five  feet  wide,  faced  with  stone.  It  is  in  some 
])laces  twenty  feet  deep.  In  others  it  is  quite  filled 
with  earth.  Tlie  soil  which  has  accumulated  in  the 
bottom  is  rich,  and  a considerable  extent  is  covered 


Walls  and  Towers.  217 

with  fine  wheat.  Another  portion  is  planted  witli  fig- 
trees,  which  also  thrive  well.  A company  of  gipsies 
were  encamped  in  this  ancient  fosse,  near  the  Adrian- 
ople  Gate.  Their  filthy,  black  turbans  and  tattered 
dress  proved  their  fraternity  with  the  same  race  in 
more  western  regions.  Their  tents  were  of  coarse  black 
wool,  or  hair,  and  not  unlike  those  of  the  Bedouins, 
except  in  form. 

The  western  walls  and  towers  are  among  the  most 
interesting  objects  that  invite  the  attention  of  a trav- 
eller visiting  Constantinople.  Several  of  the  towers 
have  undergone  repairs,  and  some  of  them  seem  to 
have  been  mostly  rebuilt.  The  larger  number,  how- 
ever, as  well  as  the  entire  wall,  are  evidently  in  the 
state  in  which  they  were  formed,  upon  the  transfer  of 
imperial  power  from  the  Greeks  to  the  Mohammedan 
dynasty.  Vestiges  of  the  violence  of  war,  no  less  than 
of  the  ravages  of  time,  are  everywhere  apparent — par- 
tial breaches  in  the  wall — half-demolished  towers  re- 
main as  they  were  when  Mahomet  II.  entered  the  con- 
quered city.  Large  trees  rise  from  the  very  summits 
of  these  stately  ramparts.  The  highest  towers  are  so 
completely  covered  with  running  ivy  as  to  conceal  the 
masonry  very  perfectly,  and  several  of  them  are  rent 
from  top  to  bottom,  gaping  wide  and  threatening  to 
tumble  headlong.  The  venerable,  hoary  aspect  of  these 
ancient  bulwarks,  their  vast  extent,  the  rich  variegated 
verdure,  and  overhanging  waving  foliage,  which  min- 
gle with  shade  and  half  conceal  semi-dilapidated  mon- 
uments of  bygone  ages — form  altogether  one  of  the 

10 


\ 


218  The  Seven  Towers. 

most  picturesque,  historical,  and  impressive  scenes  to 
be  found  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  Gate  of  Adrianople,  which  opens  into  the  great- 
est thoroughfare  of  the  city,  seems  to  have  been  adorn- 
ed with  colonnades  and  other  ornamental  constructions, 
the  fragments  of  which  cover  the  ground.  Cannon 
Gate,  memorable  as  that  through  which  the  Ottoman 
conqueror  entered  the  town,  is  upon  a high  ridge,  but 
is  not  otherwise  remarkable. 

Of  the  Seven  Towers,  once  celebrated  as  the  prisons 
■where  foreign  ambassadors  were  sometimes  confined 
by  the  Porte,  only  three  are  now  in  existence.  These 
have  lately  been  rebuilt — two  are  round,  the  other  is 
octagonal.  I was  told  that  the  largest  is  used  as  a 
powder  magazine.  The  entrance  is  on  the  outside  of 
the  city,  through  a court  enclosed  in  a high  wall  of  re- 
cent construction,  and  adapted  to  the  new  purposes  to 
which  the  edifices  have  been  devoted. 

‘This  western  wall  of  Constantinople,  which  extends 
quite  across  the  peninsula,  from  the  Golden  Horn  on 
the  north,  to  the  Sea  of  Marmora  on  the  south,  I should 
conjecture  to  be  not  less  than  five  miles  in  length.  The 
region  west  of  the  town  swells  into  gentle  hills,  but  seen 
from  any  elevated  position,  a little  distant,  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  a boundless  plain.  There  are  a few  gar- 
dens and  cultivated  fields  in  sight,  but  it  is  mostly  a 
waste,  affording,  however,  in  the  spring  and  autumn, 
pasturage  to  flocks  of  sheep.  Near  the  wall,  and  to 
distances  extending  in  some  places  several  miles,  this 
is  an  immense  burying  ground,  crowded  with  Turkish 
monuments  and  ])lantcd  with  cypresses.  In  this  neigh- 


€ E M»E  T E R I E S. 


219 


borhood  is  the  Armenian  cemetery,  which^laeks  the 
appropriate  ornament  of  the  dark  waving  cypress,  re- 
served by  custom,  and  it  is  said  by  law,  to  j^rotcct  and 
beautify  the  resting-places  of  the  faithful. 

There  are  five  gates  in  this  end  of  the  cit}^,  from 
each  of  which  a broad  highway  has  been  cut  through 
this  vast  necropolis  to  different  parts,  of  the  country. 
Indeed,  so  vast  a space  has  been  devoted  to  the  dead 
around  Constantinople,  that  it  is  no  longer  possible  to 
respect  the  sanctity  of  their  abode  without  interfering 
greatly  with  the  convenience  of  the  living,  and  even 
an  entire  saerifice  of  public  convenience.  Immense  as 
the  city  is,  I am  quite  sure  that  much  more  ground  is 
occupied  by  tombs  and  graves  than  by  the  habita- 
tions of  the  living.  The  vdiole  country  about  Constan- 
tinople, Scutari,  and  Pera,  is  occupied  in  this  way,  and 
a vast  number  of  tombs  and  burying-grounds  are  en 
closed  within  the  walls.  In  forming  roads,  streets, 
and  in  building,  it  is  no  longer  possible  to  spare  them, 
and  one  often  treads  upon  causeways  or  pavements 
made  of  sculptured  grave-stones  and  monuments. 


I 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

We  re-entered  tlie  city  at  the  Seven  Towers,  and 
passed  through  an  Armenian  quarter  in  returning  to 
the  bridge,  where  we  must  leave  our  horses.  The 
houses  are  of  wood,  mostly  unpainted,  and  in  an  al- 
most ruinous  condition.  Still  the  occupants  are  many 
of  them  rich,  and  the  slovenly  and  wretched  appear- 
ance of  their  habitations  must  be  ascribed  to  the  cause 
already  mentioned — the  fear  of  exciting  the  envy  and 
provoking  the  rapacity  of  their  oppressors.  This  dan- 
N ger  has,  I apprehend,  nearly  passed  away,  but  the  ef- 
fect of  former  days  of  cruel  oppression,  remain  in  this 
as  in’  a thousand  other  instances,  in  the  habits  and 
vices  of  the  people.  The  Armenians  impose  upon 
their  women  a bondage  less  severe  than  the  Turks. 
Still  their  females  always  appear  veiled  in  public,  and 
the  lattice  that  marks  the  front  windows  of  many  of 
their  houses,  demonstrates  that  a more  domestic  and 
private  supervision  is  also  maintained.  In  many  of 
their  houses,  however,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Greeks 
and ‘Franks,  a part  of  the  front  projects  over  the  street, 
forming  a sort  of  recess  in  the  saloon,  with  side  wdn- 


Aqueduct  of  V a lens.  221 

dows,  wliicli  command  a view  of  all  that  takes  place  in 
the  street^  up  and  down,  as  far  as  it  follows  a straight 
direction.  In  this  niche  the  females  may  be  seen  seated, 
gazing  eagerly  at  the  passers-by.  They  sometimes 
draw  the  curtains  which  hang  before  the  side-lights,  to 
screen  themselves  from  the  view  of  the  too  curious 
gazer,  but  usually  show  no  less  willingness  to  be  seen 
than  to  see.  This  custom  is  the  natural  effect  of  the 
restraints  imposed  upon  females,  and  shows  at  least  that 
they  are  not  led  to  adopt  the  prevailing  custom  from 
any  lack  of  curiosity,  which  is  so  natural  to  the  sex, 
and  indeed  to  the  species. 

We  passed  under  the 'arches  of  the  aqueduct  of  Val- 
ens,  which  conducts  the  water  for  the  supply  of  Con- 
stantinople, from  Belgrade,  a distance  of  twelve  miles. 
It  has  a ruinous  appearance,  but  still  answers  the  pur- 
pose of  its  erection.  It  is  constructed  of  unhewn  stone 
and  mortar.  The  arches  are  of  brick.  It  forms  a strik- 
ing object  when  seen  from  a distance,  running  along 
one  of  the  most  elevated  ridges  in  the  city.  Through 
a great  part  of  the  distance,  the  water  is  carried  under 
ground  in  covered  channels  of  masonry  and  leaden 
pipes.  The  Turks  have  added  a curious  appendage  to 
this  subterranean  portion  of  the  aqueduct.  Towers  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  height,  are  erected  at  short  and 
regular  intervals,  with  a basin  on  the  summit,  into 
which  the  water  rises  by  a pipe  leading  up  one  side  of 
the  tower.  It  immediately  descends  from  this  aerial 
reservoir  by  a second  pipe  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
pursues  its  hidden  way  until  it  is  again  exalted  to  an 
interview  with  the  sun  and  atmosphere  by  a similar 


222  Sarcophagus  of  Theodosia, 

contrivance.  It  is  difficult  to  conjecture  the  object,  or 
more  probably  the  mistake  in  hydraulics  which  led  to 
the  adoption  of  this  novel  expedient. 

We  passed,  on  our  return,  through  a part  of  the  city 
inhabited  by  Turks,  not  much  visited  by  Franks,  and 
had  some  experience  of  the  bigoted  hostility  towards 
Christians,  which  has  nearly  subsided  in  Pera  and  the 
more  frequented  parts  of  Constantinople,  but  which  still 
exists  in  full  force  in  some  remote  parts  of  the  capital,  as 
well  as  in  many  provincial  towns  and  villages.  I was- 
saluted  by  a stone  thrawn  by  a boy,  which,  however, 
did  not  harm  me.  Several  others  struck  our  horses 
as  we  passed.  They  fly  with  alarm  at  the  least  symp- 
tom of  resistance  or  retaliation,  though  the  persons 
who  happen  to  be  spectators  of  their  rudeness,  show 
no  disposition  to  restrain  them. 

After  returning  with  our  horses  to  the  point  of  de- 
parture near  the  bridge,  and  lunching  at  a neighboring 
restaurant,  not  much  distinguished  for  the  attraction 
of  cleanliness,  nor  far  advanced  in  the  European  im- 
provements, which  are  so  rapidly  transforming  every- 
thing Turkish,  we  returned  again  towards  the  central 
parts  of  the  city,  to  examine  an  ancient  sarcophagus, 
commonly  called  that  of  Theodosia.  We  passed  at  no- 
great  distance  from  the  wall,  a large  steam  mill,  re- 
cently erected  in  a very  substantial  manner,  unlike 
almost  all  other  private  buildings  in  Constantinople. 

We  succeeded  in  finding  the  sarcophagus  after  a 
good  deal  of  difficulty,  and  threading  a multitude  of 
narrow,  crooked  streets.  It  stands  in  a small  open 
space  near  a Ibuntaiii.  It  is  formed  of  a solid  mass  of 


Luna/TIc  Asylum. 


223 


breccia,  nine  feet  in  length,  four  and  a half  feet  wide, 
and,  including  the  lid,  which  is  very  thick  and  solid, 
about  six  feet  in  height.  The  figure  of  the  cross,  par- 
tially defaced  by  the  zeal  of  the  crescent,  is  yet  distin- 
guishable  upon  the  'sides  and  top.  A hole  has  been 
broken  through  one  of  the  ends,  and  it  seems  to  have 
been  used  as  a reservoir,  though  at  present  it  holds  no 
water. 

This  sarcophagus  has  not  the  elaborate  finish  which 
might  have  been  expected  from  its  being  devoted  to 
the  sepulchre  of  a royal  person.  Indeed,  this  circum- 
stance casts  some  doubt  upon  its  claims  to  be  regarded 
as  the  sarcophagus  of  Theodosia.  Its  form  and  pro- 
portions, however,  are  graceful,  and  it  certainly  be- 
longs to  an  age  as  early  as  that  of  the  Greek  emperors. 

Two  or  three  fragments  of  large  Syenite  columns 
arc  seen  at  no  great  distance — a probable  indication 
that  some  elegant  public  edifice  once  existed  on  the 
spot.  Several  large  masses  of  ancient  brick- work  also 
are  seen  in  this  neighborhood. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  is  distant  about  a mile  and  a 
half,  near  the  mosque  Solomynia.  We  were  stopped 
by  the  guard  at  the  door,  but  were  allowed  to  jDass 
upon  the  promise  of  giving  a bucksheesh,  a term  as 
common  in  the  Turkish  as  in  the  Arabic  language. 
It  seems  to  be  naturalized  in  all  the  languages  of  the 
Levant^  Our  ears  were  at  once  saluted  with  the  clank- 
ing of  chains,  and  the  horrors  of  the  mad-house  in 
Cairo  were  suddenly  recalled  to  my  mind.  I ap- 
proached the  grated  cells  and  found  them  occupied  by 
brown  bears,  who  seemed  happy  enough  in  the  situa 


224  \ Lunatic  Asylum. 

tion,  but  were  chained  to  guard  against  mischief  and 
escapes. 

After  a few  minutes  spent  in  examining ‘this  menag- 
erie, we  proceeded  through  another  gate  guarded  like 
the  first,  by  several  soldiers,  who  also  demanded  a 
bucksheesh,  into  another  quadrangular  court,  where 
the  lunatics  arc  confined.  The  building  is  of  a single 
story,  being  raised  two  or  three  feet  above  the  pave- 
ment, and  fronting  on  the  court.  The  windows  are 
grated  with  iron  bars,  without  glass.  The  doors  were 
open,  and  there  are  windows  in  the  rear  of  the  cells 
corresponding  with  those  in  front.  The  cells  are  of  - 
course  well  aired  and  ventilated.  They  are  also  toler- 
ably clean — remarkably  so,  considering  the  little  atten- 
tion usually  paid  to  this  subject  in  the  streets  and 
houses  of  the  Turks.  Each  of  the  unfortunate  inmates 
had  a mat'  with  a quilt  and  blanket  for  coverings.  A 
water  pitcher  and  a drinking  cup  or  bowl,  both  of 
coarse  red  earthenware,  were  near  them.  Considerable 
attention  has  evidently  been  paid  to  their  comfort  and 
liealth,  and  nothing  is  decidedly  revolting  to  the  feel- 
ings of  the  visitor,  but  the  enormous,  heavy  chains 
with  which  every  one  is  bound.  They  are  not  “less 
massive  than  the  chains  commonly  used  in  America 
for  ploughing  and  hauling  logs.  The  base  links  arc 
fastened  around  the  neck  with  a padlock ; the  whole 
is  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  length,  and  the  end  runs 
through  the  grates,  and  is  secured  in  the  outside  of  the 
wall.  One  of  the  patients  was  almost  entirely  naked, 
and  seemed  wild  enough  to  require  strict  confinement. 

4’he  rest  were  perfectly  quiet,  cither  silent  or  chaunt- 


Lunatic  Asylum. 


225 


ing  in  low  melanclioly  strains.  They  looked  pensive 
and  contemplative,  and  generally  kept  their  eyes  fixed 
upon  the  floor,  or  only  raised  them  to  take  a single 
glance  at  the  stranger.  Several  of  them  were  smok- 
ing, some  were  dining,  and  the  provision  seemed  to  be 
plentiful  and  wholesome.  They  were  respectably  clad, 
and  the  soldiers,  as  well  as  the  citizens,  who  may  have 
been  relatives,  entered  their  cells  freely,  and  contem- 
plated their  situation -with  evident  tenderness  and  re- 
spect. They  even  appeared  unusually  cheerful — a 
circumstance  which  was  probably  owing  to  the  high 
veneration  in  which  i(fiots  and  madmen  are  held  by 
the  Turks,  who  regard  them  as  the  special  favorites 
of  Heaven. 


10* 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


COFFEE-nOUSES. — THE  SERASKIER’S  TOWER. 

We  next  proceeded  to  tlie  long  range  of  coffee- 
houses just  outside  of  the  vast  courts  of  the  Mosque  of 
Solomynia.  These  coffee-houses  are  one  of  the  most 
thronged  and  favorite  resorts  of  the  respectable  Turks, 
who  spend  many  hours  of  the  day  in  smoking,  and 
sipping  their  favorite  beverage.  The  buildings  are  of 
one  story,  and  consist  of  a row  of  small  shops  or  stalls, 
where  the  refreshments  are  kept  or  j3repared,  with  a 
covered  gallery  running  in  front.  These  are  shaded 
with  trees,  and  fitted  up  with  divans  and  elevated 
benches  two  or^  three  feet  high,  covered  with  carpets 
or  mats,  and  running  close  to  the  street  near  the  outer 
side  of  the  gallery,  where  the  shade  of  the  trees  and 
the  fresh  air  can  be  most  fully  enjoyed. 

Here  The  Turks  may  always  be  seen  in  large  num- 
bers, sitting  cross-legged,  their  slippers  off,  and  appar- 
ently buried  in  listless,  thoughtless  animal  enjoyment. ' 
They  smoke  their  immensely  long,  and  sometimes  in- 
tricate and  highly  curious  pipes,  with  the  utmost  de- 
liberation. Long  pauses  follow  every  puff.  The 
smoke  rises  slowly,  and  scarcely  discolors  the  atmos- 


Scene  in  a Coffee-house.  227 


phere.  One  Dutcliman  or  German  raises  a thicker 
and  larger  cloud  of  sinoke  than  a score  of  Turks. 
Scarcely  a word  is  heard.  A single  monosyllable, 
uttered  in  a low  voice,  or  even  a sigh,  informs  the  ^ 
watchful  publican  when  the  pipe  is  to  be  replenished, 
or  a cup  of  coffee,  or  a glass  of  water  or  sherbet  is 
wanted.  You  may  observe  one  of  these  companies  of 
absorbed  and  scarcely  conscious  Musselmen  for  half  an 
hour,  without  seeing  a single  face  lighted  up  with  a 
smile,  or  indeed  betraying  any  emotion. 

The  half-closed  and  inexpressive  eye  turns  slowly 
towards  the  approaching  stranger,  and  is  probably 
riveted  upon  him  in  his  seat,  if  his  foreign  dress  and 
air  exhibit  anything  peculiar.  On  the  present  occa- 
sion, after  taking  a cup  of  coffee,  and  resting  for  a few 
minutes,  I made  some  notes  with  my  pencil.  This  is 
almost  the  only  thing  that  is  capable  of  exciting  the 
curiosity  of  these  phlegmatic  people,  and  this  seldom 
fails  to  rouse  them  from  their  repose.  Several  grave, 
turbaned,  serious  personages  immediately  put  on  their 
slippers,  and  came  close  to  me,  to  witness  the  process 
by  which  I was  attempting  to  record  some  of  the  pecu- 
liarities of  their  customs  and  character.  They  were,  of 
course,  not  the  wiser  for  the  examination,  and  they 
soon  returned  to  their  luxurious  repose.  The  Turks 
are  not  only  very  curious  to  examine  the  writings  of 
strangers,  but  very  vain  of  exhibiting  their  own  ability 
to  write  or  to  read  a manuscript.  I have  often  seen 
men  of  great  apparent  respectability  make  an  ostenta- 
tious and  rather  ludicrous  display  of  their  accomplish- 
ments on  board  steam-boats,  and  in  other  public  places 


228 


Opium  Eatees. 


where  the  presence  of  strangers  afforded  a temptation 
to  such  an  exhibition.  . 

This  range  of  coffee-houses  was  formerly  the  great 
' resort  of  the  opium  eaters,  of  whom  so  many  travellers 
have  given  graphic,  and,  as  I suspect,  rather  poetical  de- 
scriptions. I repeated  my  visit  to  this  place,  in  hopes  of 
seeing  some  remains  of  this  race,  but  without  success ; 
and  was  repeatedly  assured,  in  answer  to  inquiries  ad- 
dressed to  many  intelligent  Franks,  as  well  as  natives 
of  the  city,  that  no  such  persons  at  present  exist.  It 
is  said  that  the  freer  use  of  wine  and  spirits  by  the 
Turks  has  produced  this  change ; but  those  who  have 
enjoyed  the  most  favorable  opportunities  for  obtaining 
accurate  information,  concur  in  declaring  that  the  rep- 
resentations referred  to,  if  not  wholly  fabulous,  are 
grossly  exaggerated ; and  I did  not  converse  with  a 
single  individual  who  had  ever  known  an  opium  eater, 
though  many  professed  to  have  been  at  much  pains  to 
obtain  correct  information  on  this  point. 

The  coffee-houses  are  the  great  places  of  congrega- 
tion in  Constantinople.  They  are  instead  of  hotels, 
theatres,  news-rooms,  and  all  other  places  of  amuse- 
ment. The  number  of  these  establishments  is  im- 
mense, and  they  seem  always  to  be  well  patronized. 
Many  of  them  are  fitted  up  with  much  elegance,  or 
rather  with  much  gorgeousness — marble  fountains, 
gilded  canopies,  splendid  carpets,  are  common  decora- 
tions. The  coffee  is  served  in  a very  small  gilded 
porcelain  cup,  holding  not  more  than  a common  wine- 
glass. It  is  usually  very  strong,  and  thick  with  the 
grounds,  which  are  always  found  in  the  bottom  of  the 


The  Sera  skier’s  Tower.  229 

cup.  The  Turks  used  to  drink  it  without  sugar,  as  the 
common  people  do  now ; but  the  wealthier  begin  to 
prefer  this  Frank  innovation.  Milk  and  cream  are  not 
used.  A cup  of  coffee  with  sugar  costs  hardly  more 
than  one  cent.  There  is  indeed  no  place  where  such 
abundance  of  agreeable  refreshments  may  be  had  at  so 
low  a price.  Various  preparations, — curds,  ice-creams, 
&c., — are  sold  at  every  corner  of  the  street,  and  hawked 
through  the  market  places,  not  only  at  excessively  low 
prices,  but  of  very  good  quality. 

One  of  the  best  views  of  Constantinople  and  its  en- 
virons is  obtained  from  the  Seraskier’s  Tower,  to  which 
we  proceeded  from  the  cafes  of  the  Solomynia.  It 
rises  in  the  centre  of  a vast  enclosure,  which  embraces 
the  different  offices  and  appendages  of  the  Turkish 
War  Department.  The  site  is  one  of  the  most  com- 
manding in  the  city.  Its  situation  is  central,  and  the 
tower,  standing  upon  a lofty  eminence,  is  itself  nearly 
160  feet  in  height.  The  ascent  is  by  a spiral  staircase, 
consisting  of  180  steps,  each  about  ten  inches  high. 
Near  the  summit,  the  diameter  of  the  tower  is  enlarg- 
ed, and  forms  a spacious  circular  room  with  windows 
on  all  sides,  from  which  a view  may  be  had  in  all  di- 
rections. A guard  of  several  soldiers  is  stationed  here, 
and  here  coffee  and  other  refreshments  are  served. 

The  chief  advantage  of  this  point  of  view  over  those 
afforded  by  the  tower  of  Galata,  and  the  mountain  in 
the  rear  of  Scutari,  consists  in  its  commanding  every 
part  of  Constantinople.  Standing  upon  the  high  ridge 
about  equally  distant  from  Marmora  and  the  Golden 
Horn,  the  plains  which  incline  from  this  ridge  both 


280  The  Seeaskier’S  Tower. 

north  and  south  are  immediately  under  the  eye  of  the 
spectator.  From  Galata  half  the  city  is  concealed, 
whilst  from  Bourgaloue  the  whole  of  Scutari  is  un- 
seen, and  the  city,  too  remote  as  well  as  too  low,  is 
seen  indistinctly.  From  the  Seraskier’s  Tower,  Pera, 
Scutari,  the  harbor  and  shipping,  the  Bosphorus  as 
high  as  Buyuk-dere,  with  all  the  natural  and  artificial 
beauty  that  borders  its  incomparable  shores,  as  well 
as  the  Sea  of  Marmora  with  its  islands,  and  the  vast 
chains  of  mountains,  including  the  white  tops  of  Olym- 
pus, which  bounds  the  view  beyond  it,  are  all  seen 
with  wonderful  distinctness  and  effect.  As  to  the  city 
itself,  the  eye  readily  traces  the  wall  in  all  its  vast  com- 
pass. The  position  and  form  of  the  bazars,  palaces, 
mosques,  colleges,  and  principal  khans,  are  spread  out 
as  upon  a good  map. 

The  admirable  taste  shown  by  the  Turks  in  choosing 
the  sites  for  their  public  edifices,  is  one  of  the  first 
things  that  strike  the  stranger  who  visits  Constanti- 
nople, but  it  can  nowhere  else  be  so  fully  appreciated 
as  from  the  summit  of  the  Seraskier’s  Tower.  Every 
commanding  summit  either  in  the  city  or  its  precincts, 
and  certainly  no  other  spot  on  earth  can  have  so  many 
and  so  splendid,  is  occupied  by  a palace,  mosque,  or  oth- 
er public  edifice.  Look  which  way  you  will,  some  no- 
ble structure,  magnificent  both  from  its  simple  propor- 
tions and  lofty  position,  arrests  the  eye,  and  effectually 
screens  all  meaner  objects,  of  which  there  is  the  great- 
est abundance,  from  fixed  and  minute  observation. 
Common  habitations,  too,  are  marked  by  the  trees, 
which  abound  in  all  ]-)arts  of  the  city,  and  impart  to  it 


Number  of  Mosques.  231 

a rural  and  lovely  aspect.  Only  tlie  red  tile-roofs  are 
visible  amongst  the  overshadowing  foliage. 

The  graceful  white  minarets  of  the  inferior  mosques, 
surmounted  always  with  a glittering,  golden  crescent ; 
and  the  magnificent  domes  and  loftier  towers  of  the 
principal  mosques,  which  crown  the  hill  tops,  rise  con- 
spicuous above  the  vast  field  of  humble  edifices,  and 
the  verdure  which  half  conceals  them.  Fifteen  of 
these  noble  religious  structures  crown  the  graceful 
summits  of  the  peninsula,  stretching  in  a waving  line 
from  St.  Sophia,  close  to  the  seraglio,  to  the  western 
wall  of  the  city,  a distance  of  five  or  six  miles.  Either 
of  these  fifteen  mosques  is  decidedly  superior  to  St. 
Paul’s  church  in  London,  in  magnificence  of  propor- 
tions and  position.  The  beautiful  spires  of  two  hun- 
dred smaller  mosques  mingle  on  all  sides  with  the  dark 
foliage  of  the  tall  cypresses,  and  it  is  said  there  are  at 
least  twice  as  many  more  inferior  places  consecrated  to 
Musselman  devotion. 

Most  of  the  buildings  belonging  to  the  War  Depart- 
ment are  of  slight  and  mean  construction.  They  are 
small,  made  of  wood,  and  some  of  them  nearly  ruin- 
ous in  appearance.  It  is  surprising  that  such  inflam- 
mable materials  should  be  used  when  it  is  so  necessary 
to  guard  against  fires.  On  descending  from  this  tower, 
I observed  an  immense  globular  basket,  painted  red, 
and  suspended  by  a rope  from  the  top.  It  is  of  the 
size  of  a small  cottage,  and  is  employed,  I was  told,  in 
giving  notice  of  fires. 

Just  outside  of  the  high  walls  that  encornpass  the 
War  offices,  are  long  ranges  of  shops  wholly  devoted 


to  the  sale  of  vessels  and  utensils  manufactured  of 
brass.  They  are  almost  exclusively  of  Turkish  work- 
manship, and  they  exhibit  a very  creditable  state  of 
this  branch  of  the  arts.  The  vast  extent  of  the  dis- 
trict devoted  to  this  single  branch  of  trade  is  an  im- 
pressive evidence  of  the  great  population  of  the  cap- 
ital. These  articles  are  mostly  manufactured  in  the 
city.  Many  of  the  workshops  are  seen  near  the  Gold- 
en Ilorn,  below  the  bridge. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


THE  BAZARS. 

A WALK  of  a few  minutes  brought  us  to  the  Bazars, 
a characteristic  and  very  interesting  feature  of  Con- 
stantinople. They  occupy  a very  large  and  central 
region  of  the  city,  and  form  a labyrinth  of  streets  and 
avenues,  which  a stranger  learns  to  comprehend  only 
after  frequent  visits  and  careful  observation.  I never 
attempted  to  visit  them  after  any  particular  plan,  but 
wandered  from  one  to  another  as  chance  or  fancy  di- 
rected. They  are  formed  of  long  ranges  of  small 
shops,  and  occupy  both  sides  of  a narrow  street,  which 
is  commonly  arched  above,  so  as  to  form  one  contin- 
uous arcade.  Sometimes  a simple  awning  of  mats,  or 
a timber  roof,  is  substituted  in  the  less  important  ba- 
zars, for  the  stone  arch.  They  are  lighted  by  windows 
in  the  roof. 

The  several  shops  or  stalls  which  are  open  in  front, 
for  the  exhibition  of  merchandise  on  sale,  are  closed 
at  night  by  light  sliding  or  swinging  doors,  and  the 
whole  bazar  is  closed  at  an  early  hour  by  gates  at 
each  end,  which  are  opened  at  a fixed  and  rather  late 
hour  in  the  morning.  Each  of  these  bazars  is  de- 


234 


The  Bazars. 


voted  to  some  one  branch  of  trade,  and  is  a separate 
and  independent  establishment.  There  is  a great 
number  of  them,  but  they  mostly  occupy  one  region 
of  the  city.  Sometimes  several  of  them  radiate  from 
a common  centre — others  branch  off  as  accident  or 
convenience  may  dictate,  forming  a vast  number  of 
irregular  and  bewildering  ramifications.  The  display 
of  merchandise  is  very  imposing  and  brilliant,  far  sur- 
passing in  variety,  abundance,  and  splendor,  anything 
I have  previously  seen  in  the  Levant.  Indeed,  there 
is  nothing  equal  to  it  to  be  seen  in  London  or  Paris, 
where  a vast  amoxmt  of  business  is  transacted  with 
much  less  display. 

The  bazars  for  the  sale  of  shoes  and  slippers  are 
among  the  most  splendid.  They  are  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a mile  in  length,  and  the  slippers,  which  are 
of  bright  red  and  yellow  leather,  and  many  of  them 
richly  embroidered  with  silver  and  gold,  are  suspended 
on  either  side  of  the  street,  so  as  to  form  an  immense 
gallery,  radiant  on  all  sides  with  the  most  dazzling 
brilliancy.  Another  splendid  range  is  devoted  to  the 
exhibition  and  sale  of  embroidered  muslins,  silk  shawls, 
and  other  similar  wares.  Here,  too,  is  a gorgeous 
spectacle,  such  as  is  nowhere  else  to  be  seen.  A vast 
amount  of  these  glittering  wares  are  consumed  here, 
and  the  art  of  embroidery  seems  to  have  attained  a 
high  degree  of  perfection.  The  fabric  upon  which  so 
much  skill  and  precious  metal  are  lavished,  is  com- 
monly coarse  and  of  a very  inferior  quality. 

The  saddle  bazar  also  exhibits  a great  profusion  of 
articles  of  the  mast  rich  and  splendid  colors,  and  re 


Turk:isii  Saddles. 


285 


splendent  with  gold  and  silver.  Turkish  bridles  are 
always  highly  ornamented.  The  reins^  instead  of  sim- 
ple leather,  are  often  composed  of  some  rich  stuff, 
scarlet,  yellow,  or  green,  and  every  part  susceptible  of 
such  ornament,  is  bespangled  with  gold  and  hung  with 
gay  silken  tassels.  The  seat  of  the  saddle  is  usually 
composed  of  red  or  blue  broadcloth,  richly  embroi- 
dered. It  is,  however,  upon  the  ample  housing,  or 
cloth  which  covers  the  whole  horse,  back  of  the  shd- 
die,  and  hangs  low  down  the  flanks,  that  the  most  at- 
tention is  bestowed.  It  is  usually  of  a gay  color,  crim- 
son, olive,  blue,  &c.  Long  heavy  silk  tassels  are  sus- 
pended from  the  corners  and  along  the  lower  border, 
and  the  whole  glitters  with  silver  and  gold,  embroi- 
dered in  bold  relief  in  beautiful  and  showy  figures. 

A Turkish  saddle  is  uncomfortable  enough  to  the 
rider,  but  nothing  of  the  kind  can  be  more  picturesque 
and  agreeable  than  the  sight  of  one  of  their  noble, 
spirited  horses,  splendidly  caparisoned,  walking  or  am- 
bling along  the  street,  bearing  a pacha  with  his  retinue 
of  footmen  before  and  on  either  side.* 

* Omer  Paslia,  who  had  recently  entered  the  service  of  the  Sul- 
tan, was  at  that  time  engaged  in  active  service  on  the  frontiers. 
Born  of  a noble  Croat  family,  he  commenced  his  military  career  in 
the  service  of  Austria.  In  consequence  of  a quarrel  with  a superior 
officer,  he  emigrated  to  Turkey,  and  entered  the  Ottoman  army, 
where  his  remarkable  ability  and  his  services  procured  him  a rapid 
advancement.  For  fifteen  years  he  has  distinguished  himself  in  all 
the  struggles  which  the  Ottoman  empire  has  had  to  sustain.  The 
most  memorable  expeditions  Were  those  of  Syria  in  1844,  and  still 
later  those  of  Georgia  and  Kurdistan.  During  the  last,  he  estab- 
lished everywhere  the  authority  of  the  Porte,  and,  as  a pledge  of 
the  submission  of  the  rebels,  led  as  prisoner  their  chief,  Berderkhan 


236 


The  Bazars. 


A very  rich  and  splendid  bazar  is  devoted  to  tbe 
trade  in  furs,  of  which  a vast  quantity  are  used  in  Con- 
stantinople. This  trade  appears  to  be  wholly  monopo- 
lized by  the  Armenians,  who  are  likewise  principal 
consumers  of  the  article.  Every  one  who  is  able,  and 
nearly  all  are  so,  has  his  winter  garments  lined  through- 
out with  fur.  Even  in  the  extremely  hot  days  of  June, 
when  I experienced  the  most  oppressive  heat  in  per- 
ambulating the  streets  of  this  great  capital,  I constantly 
met  with  Armenians,  and  often  with  Turks,  burthened 
with  an  ample  outer  garment  of  broadcloth — a kind  of 
overcoat,  reaching  the  heels,  completely  lined  with 
thick  fur. 

They  wear  it,  perhaps,  to  keep  out  cold,  no  less  than 
for  show,  and,  moving  as  they  always  do,  in  a slow, 
measured  pace,  they  feel  the  inconvenience  of  such  un- 
reasonable clothing  much  less  than  men  of  a more 
mercurial  and  bustling  temperament  would  do. 

There  is  a bazar  for  calicoes,  and  another  for  silks — 
for  broadcloths — for  red  caps — for  leather — for  arms — 
for  hardware — for  haberdashery — for  old  clothes — for 
carpets — for  pipes — for  jewellery — indeed  for  almost 
every  article  which  enters  largely  into  the  trade  and 
consumption  of  a great  capital.  The  complete  separa- 
tion of  the  different  branches  of  business,  forms  a very 
striking  characteristic  of  all  considerable  oriental  cities. 


Bey,  the  last  representative  of  the  turbulent  feudality  which  had 
been  so  rudely  assaulted  by  Mahmoud.  Sultan  Abdul-Medjid,  more 
merciful  than  his  father,  pardoned  Berderkhan  Bey,  and  recom- 
pensed his  conqueror,  by  liaving  a medal  struck  at  the  close  of  the 
campaign,  witli  which  lie  decorated  his  royal  person. 


The  Bazars. 


237 


It  is  a great  convenience  to  the  buyer,  to  find  a collec- 
tion of  all  the  wares  of  which  he  may  wish  to  purchase, 
in  a single  locality.  It  must  be , favorable,  one  would 
think,  to  useful  rivalry  amongst  manufacturers,  as  well 
as  to  a wholesome  competition  amongst  sellers,  to  have 
their  wares  brought  into  a mart  so  conspicuous  and  ex- 
tensive, and  subjected  to  a ready  and  accurate  compar- 
ison with  those  of  all  other  dealers  in  the  same  line. 

The  bazars  share  with  the  coffee-houses  in  being  the 
principal,  and  almost  the  only  places  of  common  resort 
in  Constantinople.  In  passing  through  the  streets 
which  conduct  to  them,  you  might  imagine  yourself  in 
the  midst  of  a deserted  city.  Only  here  and  there  a 
solitary  individual  is  moving  slowly  towards  or  from 
these  favorite  haunts.  Pass  the  open  gate,  and  the  eye 
ranges  over  a living  mass  of  human  beings,  extending 
the  whole  length  of  the  street.  When  the  spectator 
happens  to  be  stationed  at  one  of  the  radiating  2)oints, 
from  which  half  a dozen  bazars  diverge  in  right 
lines,  the  spectacle  is  grand  and  imposing.  Ever}" 
avenue  is  crowded  with  men  and  women,  clad  in  the 
most  various,  but  always  the  most  showy  and  dazzling 
costumes.  The  red  caps  of  the  men,  the  snow-white 
veils  of  the  women,  who  appear  in  the  bazars  alone  in 
still  greater  numbers, — ^the  flaming  robes  of  cloth, 
silks,  and  stuffs,  in  which  the  gayest  and  brightest 
colors  always  predominate, — the  long  beards, — the 
formal  ample  tartan, — the  red  and  yellow  boot  and 
shppers, — the  whole  mass  not  rushing  to  and  fro  like 
the  crowd  in  Chatham  street  or  Broadway,  but  moving 
slowly  like  a funeral  pomp,  amidst  the  profuse  and 


238 


The  Turk  and  the  Jew. 


brilliant  display  of  mcrcliandisc  wliicli  I liave  already 
described, — sucli  is  the  scene  offered  to  the  eye  of  the 
visitor,  during  the  greater  jiart  of  every  day,  by  the 
bazars  of  Constantinople. 

It  is  instructive  to  contemplate  the  calmness  and 
dignity  with  which  the  Turkish  merchant  smokes  his 
long  pipe,  and  surveys  a scene  so  calculated  to  awaken 
his  hopes  and  excite  his  cupidity.  lie  sits  cross-legged 
upon  his  carpet,  in  front  of  his  little  stock  of  goods, 
ready,  if  called  upon,  to  rise  and  wait  upon  a customer. 
He  does  not,  however,  show  the  slightest  wish  to  re- 
ceive your  patronage,  and  really  seems  to  have  less 
interest  than  anybody  else  in  the  busy  scene. 

Not  so  the  Jews,  who  engross  the  bazars  appro- 
priated to  the  sale  of  sewing  silk,  twist,  braid  and  old 
clothes.  They  take  down  their  gayest,  most  attractive 
merchandise  from  the  shelf,  and  wave  it  before  you. 
They  entice  you  to  their  stalls  by  the  most  earnest 
gestures.  They  cry  out  to  you  in  half  a dozen  lan- 
guages,— Turkish,  Greek,  Italian,  French,  English, 
Spanish,  of  which  they  are  always  provided  with  at 
least  a few  words.  They  smile,  entreat,  and  even  pull 
you  gently  by  the  arm.  If  you  persevere  in  your 
course,  as  is  always  most  advisable,  some  ragged  Is- 
raelite is  sure  to  follow  you,  and  offer  you  his  services 
as  a guide  to  the  bazars  or  antiquities.  He  under- 
stands your  language,  whatever  it  may  be,  and  has  a 
perfect  acquaintance  with  all  the  objects  which  you  can 
possibly  desire  to  visit. 

The  bazars  for  the  sale  of  rich  silks,  furs,  and  jewel- 
lery, are  kept  by  Armenians,  wlio  arc  also  much  more 


Armenian  Bazars.  289 

earnest  in  quest  of  customers  than  Turks,  though  they 
arc  honorably  distinguished  from  the  Jews  by  their 
superior  dignity  and  decorum.  They  arc  indeed  the 
chief  merchants  of  Constantinople,  and  nearly  all  the 
principal  business  passes  through  their  hands.  Most 
of  the  manufactures  too,  which  require  extensive  capi- 
tal, are  conducted  by  them. 

Several  of  the  principal  bazars  seem  to  have  been 
built  with  a view  to  guard  against  fires,  which  are  so 
frequent  and  destructive  here.  None  of  them,  how- 
ever, seemed  to  me  to  deserve  the  name  of  fire-proof ; 
and  some  of  the  most  lamentable  instances  of  the  loss 
of  life,  as  well  as  property,  have  occurred  in  these  im- 
mense passages,  which  are  always  filled  with  the  most 
combustible  matter,  and  have  no^  way  of  entrance  or 
escape  but  through  the  gates  at  the  two  extremities. 
These,  on  some  disastrous  occasions,  having  become 
choked  with  goods  and  a crowd  hastening  to  escape 
a miserable  death,  multitudes  have  been  consumed  by 
the  flames. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 


FIRES  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

June  25.  I walked  tliis  morning  to  visit  the  new 
and  splendid  Armenian  clmrcli  in  the  suburbs  of 
Pera.  We  called  on  our  way  to  see  a Greek  church, 
which,  though  not  entitled  to  be  called  splendid,  is 
substantially  built  of  stone,  and  is  every  way  of  very 
respectable  appearance,  and  commodious  for  public 
worship.  It  has  the  usual  supply  of  worthless  engrav- 
ings, and  paintings,  and  tawdry  ornaments,  which  arc 
always  to  be’found  in  churches  of  this  communion. 
It  has  afforded  me  much  gratification  to  find  that  the 
Christians  in  the  Turkish  dominions,  fallen  as  they  are 
in  morals  and  spirituality,  have  yet  zeal,  as  well  as 
liberty  enough,  to  build  good  religious  edifices,  and  to 
maintain  with  decency  the  solemnities  of  public  wor- 
ship. The  Greeks  have  a large  number  of  churches  in 
Constantinople  and  its  suburbs.  They  are  erected,  as 
in  the  United  States,  by  voluntary  contributions, — a 
source  from  which  a sufficient  revenue  is  derived  for 
the  mainl^enance  of  the  clergy,  as  well  as  for  founding 
schools  and  charitable  institutions  for  the  infirm  and 
indigent  members  of  the  communion. 


T 


The  Burnt  District.  241 

The  Armenian  church  stands  upon  the  border  of 
what  is  called  the  burnt  district,  a name  which  it  will 
retain  only  for  a brief  j^eriod,  till  a conflagration  shall 
give  some  other  portion  of  this  great  metropolis  a claim 
to  this  distinction.  A large  tract,  variously  stated  to 
have  contained  from  three  thousand  to  six  or  seven 
thousand,  was  devastated  during  the  last  year  by  this 
appointed  scourge  of  the  Turkish  capital.*  The  scenes 
of  confusion  and  distress  occasioned  by  this  disastrous 
fire  were  described  to  me  as  unexampled.  The  great 
frequency  of  such  accidents  here  has  produced  a sort  of 
indifference  and  recklessness  in  the  minds  of  the  people, 
whilst  the  actual  occurrence  of  conflagration  fills  the 
public  mind  with  a degree  of  consternation  and  despair 
elsewhere  unknown  on  s'uch  occasions. 

This  is  the  natural  result  of  the  inadequate  means 
employed  here  for  checking  the  fury  of  the  flames,  and 
from  the  extreme  combustibility  of  the  city,  which  is 
little  else  but  an  immense  tinder-box,  ready  to  give 
aliment  to  an  ocean  of  flames  at  the  bidding  of  a single 

* These  fires  are  resorted  to  for  the  same  reason  that  public  meet- 
ings and  petitions  are  got  up  in  England — as  an  expression  of  the 
public  discontent.  Towards  the  close  of  the  year  1851,  the  national 
feeling  against  the  system  of  reform  broke  out  openly,  and  showed, 
itself  even  in  the  capital  by  the  barbarous  expedient  of  incendiary 
fires.  Three  hundred  of  the  largest  houses  in  Constantinople  were 
reduced  to  ashes,  and  fifteen  hundred  houses  in  Scutari  fell,  includ- 
ing all  the  markets,  magazines,  and  mills,  and  probably  the  whole 
town  would  have  followed,  had  it  not  been  for  a violent  fall  of  rain, 
which  quenched  the  fire. 

On  the  lYth  of  June,  1848,  a tremendous  conflagration  desolated 
Pera,  from  the  Golden  Horn  nearly  to  the  Bosphorus,  and  a subse- 
quent one,  a few  months  later,  left  Pera  a heap  of  ruins. 

11 


242 


Great  Fires. 


spark  of  fire.  When  a fire  is  fairly  begun,  nobody  ex- 
pects to  see  it  suppressed  till  it  has  produced  extensive 
ruin,  and  the  firemen  often  begin  to  demolish  houses, 
and  take  other  usual  precautions,  at  a great  distance 
from  the  actual  theatre  of  the  conflagration.  The  peo- 
ple having  no  hope  of  saving  their  houses,  soon  aban- 
don all  attempts  at  it,  and  limit  their  efforts  to  securing 
their  furniture  and  families. 

The  whole  mass  of  the  population,  bearing  the  feeble 
and  the  aged,  and  laden  with  their  domestic  goods,  is 
rushing  from  the  point  of  danger,  completely  blocking 
up  the  narrow  streets.  Here  they  are  met  by  another 
multitude  with  engines  and  other  appurtenances,  has- 
tening from  distant  places  to  render  assistance.  Com- 
panies of  mounted  policemen  are  galloping  to  the  same 
impassable  streets,  to  guard  against  thefts  and  other 
disorders.  They  force  their  way  through  the  dense 
masses,  witb  little  regard  to  the  safety  or  aims  of  the 
crowd.  It  unavoidably  happens  that  many  lives  are 
lost,  and  many  more  persons  are  seriously  injured. 

These  occasions  are  said  to  afford  curious  illustra- 
tions of  the  little  sympathy  which  exists  among  the 
pliihrent  religious  sects,  or,  as  they  are  more  usually 
called,  the  different  nations  which  compose  the  hetero- 
geneous population  of  the  Turkish  capital.  If  it  is  in 
the  Jewish  quarter  that  the  desolating  element  is, 
Turks  and  Christians,  who  have  been  roused  by  the 
alarm,  retire  quietly  to  their  beds,  or  shops,  leaving 
them  to  manage  their  own  aflairs.  The  Armenians 
show  the  same  indifference  to  the  misfortunes  of  the 
Greeks,  and  vice  versa ; and  the  Franks  of  Galata  and 


Keady  to  be  Burned.  243 

Pera  are  equallj^  left  to  their  own  resources  during 
these  frightful  visitations.  Personal  interest,  resulting 
from  the  ownership  of  property,  or  other  causes,  will 
of  course  produce  many  exceptions  to  this  exhibition 
of  selfishness  and  bigotry,  but  such,  I am  well  assur- 
ed, is  the  common  usage. 

One  is  able,  in  riding  or  walking  through  Constan- 
tinople and  its  populous  suburbs,  to  read  the  history 
of  their  calamities  in  the  fresh  or  antiquated  appear- , 
ance  of  the  buildings.  To  be  burnt  up  is  the  natural 
and  expected  end  of  a Turkish  house,  and  to  this  re- 
sult their  structure  and  arrangement  are  especially 
adapted.  Bents  are  enormously  high,  being  calculated 
upon  the  principle  that  the  average  existence  of  a house 
is  seven  or  eight  years.  If  by  any  good  fortune  it  es- 
capes the  flames  for  a longer  period,  it  is  reckoned  so 
much  clear  gain  to  the  lucky  owner.  He  must,  how- 
ever, be  at  the  expense  of  making  general  repairs,  as 
the  structure,  designed  only  for  so  brief  an  existence, 
is  built  in  the  slightest  manner,  and  soon  begins  to  fall 
in  pieces  if  spared  by  the  flames  much  beyond  the 
usual  term. 

Hundreds,  probably  more  than  a thousand  houses, 
are  now  in  the  course  of  building  in  the  burnt  district. 
Several  of  these  are  lofty  and  spacious,  but  the  mate- 
rial employed  in  a half  dozen  of  them  would  not  be 
more  than  adequate  to  the  construction  of  one  substan- 
tial and  durable  edifice  of  the  same  dimensions.  The 
most  important  and  massive  portions  of  the  framework 
are  formed  of  timber  scarcely  more  than  four  or  six 
inches  square,  whilst  the  braces  and  rafters  are  either 


244 


Frail  Constructions. 


of  small  poles  or  saplings,  or  mere  narrow  strips  of 
inch  plank.  It  is  slightly  covered  with  clap-boards,  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  two  or  three  feet 
long,  often  nailed  on  without  planing.  The  roofs  are 
of  tiles.  One  is  astonished  to  find  that  these  frail  con- 
structions are  not  shattered  to  pieces  and  blown  away 
by  the  first  strong  wind. 

They  are,  however,  crowded  together,  and  shelter 
each  other.  The  narrow  streets  give  little  play  to  vio- 
lent winds,  and  after  all  one  is  inclined  to  modify  and 
apply  to  these  tottering  houses  the  proverb  which  will 
secure  them  against  all  other  misfortunes  in  virtue  of 
their  having  been  made  to  be  burned.  To  this  ap- 
pointed destiny,  the  great  mass  of  the  houses  of  Con- 
stantinople have  a most  observable  and  growing  adapt- 
ation. The  thin  weather-boards  twist  and  crack  in  the 
sun,  become  ragged  and  hang  loosely  upon  the  walls, 
and  everybody,  instead  of  making  repairs,  seems  pa- 
tiently waiting  for  the  coup  de  grace  of  the  predestined 
conflagration. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


ARMENIAN  CHURCH  AND  CEMETERIES. 

The  new  Armenian  church,  the  immediate  object 
of  my  morning’s  walk,  is  on  the  verge  of  the  burnt 
district,  and  its  ample  courts  and  solid  walls  afforded 
a shelter  to  a multitude*  of  persons  on  the  occasion  of 
this  great  disaster,  as  well  as  a place  of  security  for 
their  effects.  This  edifice  is  situated  in  the  centre  of 
a large  enclosure,  formed  of  high  walls,  which  conceal 
the  body  of  the  edifice  from  the  view  of  those  who  are 
without.  The  entrance  into  this  court  is  secured  by 
massive  gates,  and  the  whole  has  the  appearance  of  a 
strong  fortress.  The  church  is  of  ample  dimensions, 
beautiful  proportions,  and  solid  architecture,  and,  to 
my  taste,  better  adapted  in  its  style  and  arrangement 
to  the  purposes  for  which  a place  of  Christian  worship 
should  be  consecrated  than  any  I have  seen  in  the 
Levant. 

The  entire  structure  is  composed  of  solid  marble — 
the  walls  are  very  thick — and  the  roof  consists  of  an 
immense  arch,  which  springs  from  their  summit.  Mas- 
sive joists,  cased  in  wood,  run  across  the  body  of  the 
edifice,  to  aid  the  walls  in  resisting  the  pressure  of  the 


246 


The  Armenian  Church. 


vast  weiglit  wliicli  rests  upon  them.  The  galleries  in 
Armenian  churches  are  particularly  devoted  to  females, 
though  I have  often  seen  them  in  the  body  of  the  edi- 
fice. There  are  .three  galleries  in  this  church,  rising 
one  above  another  across  the  end  remotest  from  the 
altar.  The  first  is  roomy  and  convenient,  but  the 
third  can  hardly  be  less  than  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above 
the  pavement ; and  as  far  as  hearing  is  concerned,  its 
occupants  might  as  well  be  on  the  top  of  the  house. 
There  are  no  pews  or  seats.  The  Armenians  kneel 
upon  the  pavement,  which  is  always  provided  with 
mats  or  carpets,  and  sit  in  the  same  place,  cross-legged 
in  the  Turkish  manner.  So,  at  least,  I have  always 
seen  them  accommodated  in  the  churches.  . A few  pic- 
tures, of  no  merit  as  works  of  art,  are  suspended  above 
the  altar  and  on  other  parts  of  the  walls,  and  a good 
supply  of  lamps,  for  illuminating  the  edifice,  hang  a 
, few  feet  above  the  floor. 

The  spacious  court  around  the  church,  like  the  in- 
terior, is  paved  with  large  slabs  of  marble.  These, 
and  the  entire  mass  of  materials  employed  in  the  erec- 
tion of  this  fine  edifice,  are  tomb-stones  taken  from  an 
Armenian  cemetery.  On  many  of  the  large  slabs  em- 
ployed in  the  court  the  inscriptions  still  appear,  though 
all  the  stones  have  been  dressed  anew  in  order  to  fit 
them  for  their  present  use.  A good  deal  of  opposition 
was  made  to  this  desecration,  as  it  was  called,  of  the 
monuments  of  the  dead.  The  time,  however,  has 
come  when  the  living  and  teeming  population  of  this 
Viist  metropolis  are  compelled  to  encroach  upon  the 
countless  and  interminable  cemeteries  which  environ 


Monuments  of  the  Dead.  247 

them  on  every  side,  and  assert  their  superior  claim  to 
the,  occupancy  of  the  surface  of  the  earth.  Perhaps 
nothing  better  can  be  done  with  the  antiquated  monu- 
ments that  literally  cover  and  encumber  the  ground 
adjacent  to  Constantinople,  than  to  employ  them  in  the 
erection  of  churches.  It  is  even  possible  that  the  more 
thoughtful  worshippers  will  derive  useful  moral  les- 
sons from  these  “ sermons  in  stones.” 

Armenian  burying-grounds  are  to  be  found  in  all 
directions  around  the  city.  One  large  and  important 
one,  which  I visited,  is  a little  north  of  Pera,  upon  a 
hill  which  commands  a noble  view  of  the  Bosphorus 
and  Constantinople.  It  is'  thinly  shaded  with  large, 
spreading  trees,  and  contains  many  tombs  and  other 
monuments,  of  chaste  design  and  good  execution. 
They  are  not  unlike  the  memorials  seen  in  an  Ameri- 
can or  English  cemetery. 

Their  massive  solidity  particularly  strikes  the  visi- 
tor who  approaches  the  spot,  as  I did,  through  the  vast 
Turkish  burying- ground,  which  stretches  from  the 
Bosphorus  along  the  north  side  of  Topana  and  Pera 
almost  to  the  one  just  described,  belonging  to  the 
Armenians.  Here  the  monuments  are  all  slight  and 
frail.  Marbles  six  feet  in  height  are  only  eight  inches 
wide,  and  one  or  two  thick,  and  they  are  chiselled  with 
the  most  fragile  tenuity,  in  order  to  give  them  the 
form  of  the  human  head  and  neck.  These  are  unfit 
for  building  the  walls,  or  even  for  paving  the  courts  of 
churches;  but  they  are  temptingly  convenient  for 
bridging  a wet- weather  stream,  or  forming  a hasty 


248 


Armenian  Monuments. 


causeway  over  a mud-hole,  for  which  less  honorable 
purposes  they  are  often  used. 

The  Armenian  monuments  are  covered  with  the 
usual  inscriptions  in  their  own  language,  commemorat- 
ing, as  we  who  cannot  read  them  may  safely  conclude, 
the  dignities  and  virtues  of  the  departed,  in  the  spirit 
of  vanity  or  affection  which  dictate  such  things  in  all 
places  and  ages.  In  another  respect,  however,  they 
are  quite  peculiar.  Upon  many  of  the  monuments  the 
instruments  of  the  trade  followed  by  the  deceased  in 
his  life-time  are  conspicuously  sculptured.  On  one 
stone  is  seen  the  hammer  and  knife  of  the  shoemaker, 
— on  another,  the  tailor’s  shears.  On  one  I saw  the 
anvil  and  hammer  of  the  blacksmith. 

A plough  of  primitive  form,  attached  to  a yoke,  was 
the  coat  of  arms  which  pointed  to  the  resting-place  of 
the  peasant — whilst  an  inkstand  and  pen,  which  are 
sculptured  upon  many  tombs,  denote  the  truly  Arme- 
nian vocation  of  accountant  and  scribe.  There  is 
something  touching  in  these  simple  memorials,  and  it 
is  impossible  not  to  admire  the  true  independence  and 
good  sense,  which  is  not  ashamed  to  proclaim  in  a way 
so  public  and  enduring,  that  honored  i)arents  and  be- 
loved relatives  lived  by  handicraft  employments.  It 
is  said  that  some  have  carried  this  peculiarity  so  far  as 
to  sculpture  upon  the  tomb  the  instruments  of  punish- 
ment by  which  their  relatives  have  been  executed  for 
alleged  crimes.  I did  not  meet  with  any  instances  of 
this  kind,  though  I took  some  pains  to  discover  evi- 
dences of  a usage  so  very  curious. 

Armenian  funerals  arc  attended  with  some  peculiar 


Visits  to  the  Tomb.  249 

rites,  tlie  most  interesting  of  wliicli  is  the  taking  leave 
of  the  deceased,  immediately  before  the  interment.  It. 
is  usual  on  such  occasions  to  give  the  most  unrestrained 
indulgence  to  expressions  of  grief,  which  are  said  often 
to  be  heart-rending.  I had  no  opportunity  of  witness- 
ing such  a scene,  but  I often  saw  evidence  of  the  strong 
propensity  of  the  Armenians  to  linger  about  the  graves 
of  their  deceased  relatives  and  friends. 

Dr.  Walsh,  who  enjoyed  many  advantages  for  be- 
coming acquainted  with  their  views  upon  this  and  other 
subjects,  says  that  they  believe  themselves  to  hold 
spiritual  converse  with  the  departed,  which  is  the  prin- 
cipal cause  of  these  visits  to  their  tbmbs.  With  what- 
ever views  they  pay  these  visits,  it  is  certain  that  the 
burying  ground  is  their  favorite  resort,  where  they 
spend  many  of  their  spare  .hours.  Whole  families, 
parents  and  little  children,  may  be  seen  gathered 
around  a tomb  in  silence  and  seriousness,  or  in  ani- 
mated and  joyous  converse.  The  grave  slab  is  often 
their  mat,  and  often  the  table  upon  which  they  spread 
the  cake,  fruit,  and  wine  for  their  fete  champ etre.  I 
have  seen  it  too  employed  as  a card-table,  where  the 
idle  or  profligate  play  for  piastres,  hour  after  hour. 
All  the  burying  grounds,  Turkish,  Jewish,  and  Chris- 
tian, are  chief  places  of  public  resort.  If  this  custom 
were  not  so  common  in  other  parts  of  the  East,  I might 
conclude  that  it  originated  here,  from  the  vast  number 
and  extent  of  the  cemeteries,  which  hardly  leave  any 
other  places  for  public  promenades  and  sports. 

11^ 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


NAVY  YAED. 

After  my  return  from  the  churches,  I paid  a visit 
to  the  Sultan’s  nav^  yard.  Nothing  can  be  finer  for 
the  purpose  of  building  and  repairing  ships,  or  of  being 
made  the  maritime  depot  of  a great  nation.  It  is  upon 
the  Golden  Horn,  which  here  forms  a large  bay  on  the 
Pera  shore,  a little  above  the  floating  bridge.  The 
water  is  of  sufficient  depth  to  afford  good  anchorage 
for  ships  of  the  line,  in  water  close  to  the  shore.  It  is 
perfectly  sheltered  from  all  winds,  and  though  almost 
in  the  heart  of  the  capital,  is  completely  removed  from 
all  interference  with  merchant  vessels,  which  moor  just 
below  the  bridge ; whilst  public  vessels  pass  through 
the  draws,  of  which  there  are  two,  into  the  harbor  of 
the  navy  yard,  immediately  above  it.'  We  passed  un- 
der one  of  the  draws  in  a caique,  the  only  craft  which 
passes  beyond  this  limit. 

In  approaching  the  landing-place,  near  the  gate  of 
the  arsenal,  as  the  vast  enclosure  of  the  navy  yard, 
with  its  contents,  is  usually  called,  we  passed  by  some 
old  ships  of  war,  the  remains  of  the  fleet  destroyed  by 
the  allies  at  Navarino.  They  are  in  a state  of  decay- 


Question  of  the  East. 


251 


several  of  them  have  been  broken  for  their  timber  and 
other  materials ; and  the  rest,  including  an  immense 
vessel  of,  I believe,  one  hundred  and  twenty  guns, 
must  soon  share  the  same  fate.  One  would  think  that 
the  perpetrators  of  that  outrage  on  the  dignity  and  in- 
dependence of  the  Ottoman  empire,  would  be  anxious 
to  see  these  interesting  memorials  of  their  blind  and 
criminal  policy,  completely  annihilated.  This  wish 
will  be  consummated  long  before  the  disastrous  con- 
sequences of  that  breach  of  good  faith  will  cease  to 
operate  disastrously  upon  Turkey  and  all  Europe. 
Eussia  should  be  excepted,  which  is  likely  to  reap  the 
whole  harvest  of  a crime,  in  the  perpetration  of  which 
she  acted  only  a secondary  part. 

From  the  moment  of  the  destruction  of  the  Turkish 
fleet,  which  dismembered  the  Sultan’s  empire,  and  by 
its  moral  influence  doomed  it  to  inevitable  weakness 
and  ultimate  extinction,  the  question  of  the  East,  as  it 
is  compendiously  called,  has  been  the  first  and  the 
most  difficult  in  European  politics.  It  is  becoming 
every  day  more  complicated  and  unmanageable,  and 
will  only  find  its  solution  in  the  annihilation  of  the 
Ottoman  empire,  and  probably  in  a general  continental 
war.*  As  a moral  question,  the  Christian  may  con- 

* The  real  object  of  dispute,  says  an  English  writer  in  1853,  is  at 
present  the  empire  of  the  East,  and  the  first  place  in  the  East.  Eng- 
land and  Russia  alone  aspire  to  that.  England  does  so  reluctantly 
and  unconsciously,  perhaps.  But  still  the  power  whose  flag  floats 
at  Peshawur  and  in  Pegu,  in  the  islands  of  Borneo  and  Canton — this 
is  the  power  which  the  Russians  look  on  as  their  rival ; and  with 
whom  principally  they  seem  to  desire  at  the  present  moment  to  try 
a fall.  England,  in  fact,  pretends  to  dispute  with  Russia  the  empir- 


252 


Question  of  the  East. 


template  such  changes  with  hope,  but  its  political  as- 
pect is  certainly  fraught  with  fearful  omens.  What 
good  has  been  done  by  the  battle  of  Navarino? 
Greece,  too  weak  to  be  independent,  and  too  corrupt 
and  ignorant  for  freedom  and  self-government,  has 
become  virtually  a province  of  Kussia,  under  a stupid 
king,  whose  rule  is  decidedly  more  oppressive  than 
that  of  the  Turk. 

The  Pacha  of  Egypt,  the  sternest  and  most  terrible 
tyrant  known  to  history  in  the  last  thousand  years, 
acting  upon  the  policy  sanctioned  by  Europe  at  Navar- 
ino, has  wrested  Egypt,  Syria,  and  Arabia  from  Tur- 
key ; and  the  allies,  having  robbed  Turkey  of  the  ele- 
ments of  her  natural  and  moral  power,  are  now  labor- 
ing  to  counteract  her  irresistible  tendency  to  ruin  by 
the  arts  of  diplomacy.  They  perceive  that  they  have 
demolished  the  only  natural  and  efficient  barrier  to  the 
dangerous  po  vver  of  Russia,  which  can  only  realize  her 
ambitious  schemes  by  pushing  the  limits  of  her  vast 
empire  to  the  Bosphorus  and  the  Dardanelles.* 

of  Asia,  and  the  paramount  influence  in  Europe.  Thus  the  struggle 
that  is  now  commencing,  and  of  which  the  present  century  will  not 
see  the  end,  is  for  no  less  than  the  supremacy  over  two  quarters  of 
the  globe.” 

* “Though  the  establishment  of  the  Turks  in  Europe  is  now  of  such 
respectable  antiquity,  that  its  fourth  and  perhaps  fated  centenary 
draws  nigh,  and  though  their  rights  of  dominion  have  acquired  a 
title  beyond  that  of  mere  prescription,  yet  the  nation  itself  is  still 
only  **  encamped*'  on  its  conquests.  They  have  never  comported 
themselves  either  politically  or  socially,  as  if  they  anticipated  in 
Europe  any  continuing  home.  Ottoman  legends  relate  how  a belief 
arose,  even  in  the  very  hour  of  conquest,  that  the  banner  of  the  cross 
would  again  be  some  day  carried  to  the  brink  of  the  Straits;  and  it 


Navy  Yard. 


253 


We  experienced  some  difficulty  in  getting  admitted 
into  the  Navy  Yard,  an  order  having  been  issued  by 
the  chief  of  this  department,  that  no  stranger  should 
for  the  present  be  allowed  to  see  it.  The  reason  of 
this  order  is  supposed  to  be  the  derangement  of  the 
establishment,  from  some  late  changes  in  the  adminis- 
tration. The  sentinel  at  the  gate  denied  us  admission, 
and  refused  the  proffered  bucksheesh  with  a decision 
as  unusual  as  it  was  discouraging.  W e inquired  for  an 
American  known  to  Mr.  H.,  who  was  lately  employed 
in  one  of  the  shops,  and  were  allowed  to  accompany  tlie 
, soldier  who  went  into  the  enclosure  to  look  for  him. 

This  gave  us  opportunity  to  look  at  several  inter- 
esting objects.  The  American,  however,  was  no  long- 
er there,  and  our  guide  was  leading  us,  in  spite  of  our 
attempts  to  turn  to  the  right  and  left,  directly  back  to 
the  gate  by  which  we  had  entered.  We  fortunately, 
however,  met  a Greek  physician,  who  had  been  ad- 
mitted to  see  a sick  man,  and  contriving  to  send  back 

our  soldier  with  his  fee,  we  accompanied  Dr.  

through  the  establishment.  It  has  the  usual  appurten- 

is  said  that  this  misgiving  is  traceable  in  the  selection  of  the  Asiatic 
shore  for  the  final  resting-place  of  true  believers.  It  is  certain,  too, 
that  from  the  first  definite  apparition  of  the  Russian  empire,  they 
instinctively  recognized  the  antagonists  of  Fate.  Europe  had  hard- 
ly learned  the  titles  of  the  Czar,  when  the  gaze  of  the  Porte  was  un- 
easily directed  to  the  new  metropolis  on  the  Neva ; throughout  the 
whole  country,  notwithstanding  its  chequered  incidents,  the  impres- 
sion was  never  weakened ; and  to  this  day  the  inhabitants  of  Con- 
stantinople point  out  the  particular  gate  by  which  the  Muscovite 
troops  are  to  enter  the  City  of  Promise.” — Edinburgh  Review,  Jan. 
1850. 


254 


Navy  Yard. 


ances.  There  is  an  extensive  saw-mill,  worked  by 
steam,  a rolling-mill  to  prepare  copper  for  sheathing 
vessels,  a foundry  for  cannon  and  machinery  to  bore 
them,  and  a shop  for  the  construction  of  boilers  for 
steamboats.  W e saw  an  enormous  copper-boiler,  near- 
ly completed,  the  second  which  has  been  attempted 
here.  The  machinery,  which  is  from  England,  is  very 
fine,  and  works  admirably.  Several  of  the  workmen 
are  also  English. 

We  also  saw  a beautiful  inclined  plane,  constructed 
of  marble,  Avith  the  appliances  necessary  for  building  a 
first-class  ship  of  war.  This,  with  most  of  the  im- 
provements of  this  fine  establishment,  is  the  work  of 
Mr.  Khodes,  an  American  gentleman,  who  was  until 
recently  employed  as  principal  naval  architect  of  the 
Turkish  government.  Many  of  their  finest  vessels, 
which  are  said  by  good  judges  to  be  equal  to  any  in 
the  world,  are  constructed  under  his  orders.  lie  de- 
served and  enjoyed  in  an  eminent  degree  the  confidence 
of  the  late  Sultan,  who  was  both  his  patron  and  friend, 
and  many  attempts  to  injure  him  by  intrigue,  made 
during  the  life  of  Mahmoud,  were  signally  unsuccess- 
ful. They  have  been  renewed,  however,  with  more 
effect  under  his  youthful  successor,  and  Mr.  Khodes 
has  recently  thought  it  due  to  his  self-respect  to  resign 
his  post  and  return  to  his  native  countr3^  The  Sultan 
has  some  foreign  officers  in  his  naval  service,  whose 
personal  and  national  feelings  were  too  deeply  wound- 
ed to  permit  an  American  to  enjoy  quietly  a station  so 
important  and  conspicuous  in  the  Turkish  marine.* 

* “The  last  anniversary  of  the  birth-day  ot  Washington  (1854)  was 


Oppression  of  the  Peasantry.  255 

The  carpenters  and  other  operatives  work  under  the 
thick  shade  of  ar  fine  grove  of  trees,  impervious,  or 
nearly  so,  to  the  rays  of  the  sun,  whilst  they  admit  a 
free  circulation  of  air, — an  arrangement,  in  this  climate 
at  least,  where  the  sky  is  commonly  serene,  very  supe- 
rior to  the  close  and  dusty  shops  where  such  labor  is 
usually  performed. 

I heard  a pleasing  anecdote  of  a change  which  has 
been  introduced  into  the  administration  of  this  estab- 
lishment since  the  publication  of  the  Hatti  Sheriff. 
The  Turkish  government,  instead  of  obtaining  timber 
for  building  ships  of  war  by  purchasing  it  at  the  mar- 
ket, or  by  sending  its  agents  to  cut  it  down  in  the  for- 
ests, has  long  been  accustomed  to  make  upon  the  vil- 
lages of  certain  parts  of  the  country  a demand  for  a 
prescribed  quantity  of  oak  and  pine,  to  be  delivered 
at  the  public  depots.  Like  everything  else  in  this  un- 
happy,  misgoverned  country,  this  usage  gave  rise  to 
abuses,  by  which  the  various  functionaries  contrived  to 
enrich  themselves.  It  commonly  happened,  when  the 
poor  peasants,  torn  from  their  rural  occupations  at  the 
most  unpropitious  time,  brought  their  quota  of  timber 
to  the  depot  appointed,  that  the  officer  having  charge 
of  the  business  refused  to  receive  it,  under  the  pretext 

observed  in  Constantinople,  for  the  first  time,  with  imposing  cere- 
monies. In  the  harbor  were  several  Turkish,  English,  French,  Dutch, 
and  Austrian  vessels  of  war ; also  the  U.  S.  ship  Levant.  In  the 
morning,  each  ship  displayed  the  American  ensign  at  the  masthead. 
At  noon  the  Levant  fired  a salute  of  twenty-one  guns,  which  was 
immediately  followed  by  a similar  salute  from  all  the  other  ships  of . 
war  in  port.  In  the  afternoon.  Captain  Turner  of  the  Levant  had 
a party  on  board  his  ship.” 


I 


2o()  Palace  of  Constantine. 

that  it  was  not  of  the  description  called  for  by  the  or- 
der of  government.  The  peasants  must  return  to  the 
mountains  for  another  supply,  which  was  liable  to  a 
similar  condemnation,  besides  the  certain  ruin  that 
must  come  upon  their  domestic  affairs  from  such  pro- 
tracted absence.  In  order  to  extricate  themselves  from 
this  perplexity,  it  was  usual  for  these  poor  people  to 
give  a bribe  to  the  officer  to  induce  him  to  receive  the 
tribute,  which,  as  being  condemned,  they  must  also  de- 
liver for  a mere  nominal  price. 

This  abuse  exists  no  longer.  The  government  buys  : 

its  ship-timber  at  the  market  price  at  a much  dearer  ^ 

rate,  to  be  sure,  than  formerly,  but  without  oppressing  J 

its  helpless  subjects.  Such  practical  effects  of  the  new  j 

system  of  reform  are  gratifying  proofs  of  the  sincerity  ^ 

of  the  government,  and  excite  a hope  that  the  system 
may  be  efficiently  carried  out  in  all  departments  of  the  ^ 

administration.  < 

After  leaving  the  navy-yard,  we  went  to  visit  a 
ruinous  edifice  near  the  west  wall  of  Constantinople, 
commonly  known  as  the  palace  of  Constantine.  It  has 
a first  and  second  story,  and  consists  of  three  or  ^four 
arched  rooms,  now  occupied  as  a wretched  dwelling.  , 

There  are  some  columns  of  very  bad  execution,  and  of 
no  order  of  architecture.  A fragment  of  Greek  in- 
scription inverted  is  shown  upon  a broken  stone. 

The  building  is  not  Turkish,  but  it  seems  to  have 
little  claim  to  the  character  commonly  assigned  to  it. 

It  has  the  appearance  of  a Genoese  structure,  being 
composed  of  a mixture  of  brick  and  stone.  ’The  city 
did  not  extend  so  far  west  in  the  days  of  Constantine, 


Its  Occupants.  257 

and  tf  built  by  him  at  all,  it  was  a country  villa.  The 
modern  occupants  are  Spanish  Jews,  a half  dozen  at 
least  of  whom,  all  women,  fell  into  a high  quarrel, 
which,  as  well  as  we  could  understand  it,  concerned 
their  respective  rights  to  show  the  premises  to  stran- 
gers, and  the  proper  ownership  of  the  gratuity  we  were 
expected  to  make.  We  were  ready  to  depart  before 
they  had  settled  these  difficult  questions,  and  they 
turned  upon  us  with  such  earnestness,  and  even  fury, 
that  we  were  compelled  to  use  some  violence  to  rescue 
ourselves.  I never  heard  more  inharmonious  voices, 
nor  saw  woman  apparently -more  degraded  and  dis- 
gusting. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


HOWLING  DERVISES. 

Returning  to  the  Golden  Horn,  we  took  a boat  to 
the  northern  termination  of  the  bridge,  and  walked 
through  the  extensive  burjing-ground  which  stretches 
thence  to  the  toAver  of  Galata.  It  is  an  inclined  plane, 
sloping  towards  the  south,  and  in  this  part,  unlike 
most  Turkish  cemeteries,  nearly  bare  of  trees.  The 
hour  was  1 P.  M.,  and  the  rays  of  the  sun,  Avhich  shone 
Avith  intense  brilliancy,  reflected  by  the  naked  sand  and 
the  tomb-stones,  produced  a burning,  stifling  heat 
altogether  intolerable.  I reached  my  apartment  pant- 
ing for  breath,  and  quite  overAvhelmed ; and  it  Avas  not 
until  after  a repose  of  several  hours  that  I Avas  able  to 
prosecute  the  engagements  to  Avhich  the  afternoon  had 
been  allotted. 

The  temperature  of  Constantinople  is  subject  to  great 
extremes,  at  least  so  far  as  I was  able  to  judge  from 
experience.  The  nights  Avere  invariably  cool.  I even 
thought  I could  perceive  a kind  of  mountain  chilliness 
in  them.  During  the  day  the  fiery  heat  of  the  sun, 
Avhich  acts  Avith  immense  poAver,  is  tempered  by  a 
northerly  Avind,  Avhich  bloAvs  doAvn  the  Bosphorus 


Temperature  of  Constantinople.  259 

from  the  Black  Sea.  It  begins  to  be  felt  by  eight  or 
nine  o’clock,  A.  M.,  and  before  afternoon  becomes  a 
gale,  agitating  the  water  in  the  harbor  to  such  a de- 
dree,  that  a passage  in  a caique  to  Scutari,  or  even  to 
Constantinople,  becomes  an  adventure.  It  is  only  in 
the  streets,  and  in  such  sheltered  places  as  the  ceme- 
tery of  Galata,  that  great  inconvenience  is  experienced 
from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  In  passing  from  one  of 
these  glowing  localities  to  some  considerable  elevation, 
or  an  open  space  where  the  Euxine  breezes  are  enjoy- 
ed, a change  is  experienced  almost  as  violent  as  that 
which  is  felt  on  leaving  a heated  parlor  to  encounter 
the  keen  northern  blasts  of  an  American  winter.  These 
vicissitudes,  however,  seem  tp  produce  no  bad  effect 
upon  the  health  of  the  people  of  Constantinople.  I 
was  told  by  a physician,  whose  professional  pursuits 
have  made  him  well  acquainted  with  the  subject,  that 
a residence  here  during  the  warm  season  is  not  only 
free  from  all  danger,  but  often  decidedly  salutary  to 
the  more  delicate  pulmonary  patients.  The  rest  of  the 
year  he  considers  pernicious  to  this  class  of  persons, 
from  the  prevalence  of  damp  chilling  winds,  accompa- 
nied often  with  profuse  rains,  and  occasionally  with 
extreme  cold. 

At  3.  P.  M.,  I went  with  a number  of  friends  to  Scu- 
tari, to  witness  the  performance  of  a strange  sect  of 
Mohammedan  fanatics,  called  the  Howling  Dervises. 
They  occupy  convents,  are  wholly  consecrated  to  relig- 
ious observances,  and  possess  considerable  estates,  the 
gift  of  zealous  Musselmen  for  the  maintenance  of  these 
establishments.  I had  no  means  of  learning  what  arc 


260 


Howling  Dervises. 


the  distinguishing  dogmas  and  more  private  duties  of 
this  sect,  but  they  have  on  Thursday  of  each  week  an 
open  exhibition  of  what,  I suppose,  they  would  call 
their  public  worship.  It  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  sights 
of  Constantinople,  and  few  strangers  omit  to  visit  it 
at  least  once  during  even  a short  stay  in  the  capital. 
Their  chapel  of  exhibition  is  nearly  a mile  from  the 
landing-place  in  Scutari.  We  passed  through  an  outer 
court  into  a large  square  room,  a convenient  space 
upon  two  sides  being  separated  from  the  rest  by  a low 
wooden  railing  for  the  use  of  spectators.  Some  rude 
musical  instruments  and  some  old  dirks  or  short  swords 
were  suspended  in  the  area  devoted  to  the  religious 
performances.  The  latter,  it  is  said,  are  sometimes 
used  by  the  more  fanatical  of  the  fraternity  to  inflict 
wounds  upon  themselves  by  way  of  penance,  which 
they  regard  as  highly  meritorious.  The  dervises,  thirty 
or  forty  in  number,  stood  in  rows  on  three  sides  of  the 
area  appropriated  to  their  performance.  They  were 
about  to  recommence  their  exercises,  which  are  occa- 
sionally suspended  for  a few  minutes  for  the  purpose 
of  taking  breath. 

The  fourth  side  was  occupied  by  a number  of  per- 
sons who  were  not  dervises,  but  seemed,  from  the  great 
deference  paid  them,  to  be  distinguished  personages, 
who  countenanced  the  fraternity  by  their  presence.  I 
observed  one  of  them,  after  some  time,  lay  aside  a part 
of  his  dress,  and  take  a part  with  the  rest  as  a kind  of 
amateur  performer.  These  persons  were  seated  on 
sheep-skins,  covered  with  long  wool  dyed  bright  scar- 
let color.  Near  the  centre  of  the  room  sat  a dorvise, 


Howling  Her  vises. 


‘261 


also  upon  a scarlet  fleece,  wlio  appeared  to  be  a chief- 
tain in  the  fraternity,  and  on  this  occasion  he  opened 
their  exercises  by  setting  up  a low,  dull  chant.  In  this 
he  was  accompanied  by  the  dervises  standing  around 
the  room,  who,  at  the  same  time,  commenced  a slow 
and  measured  motion  of  the  body,  backwards  and  for- 
wards, the  feet  alone  remaining  immovable.  By  im- 
perceptible degrees  the  chant  became  more  loud  and 
quick,  and  with  it  the  movements  of  the  devotees  cor- 
responded. The  hand  described  a longer  arc,  witli 
perpetually  increasing  velocity.  Each  of  the  perform 
ers  might  be  likened  to  a revolving  pendulum  inverted. 
The  resemblance  ceased,  however,  when,  at  the  end  of 
a quarter  of  an  hour,  the  more  supple  and  active  nearly 
struck  their  foreheads  against  the  pavement,  and  it  be- 
came impossible  to  bend  so  low  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion, without  losing  their  balance  and  falling  headlong. 
Nothing  could  exceed  the  violence  of  gesticulation  and 
preternatural  energy  with  which  they  now  performed 
these  exhausting  evolutions. 

The  heat  of  the  day  was  extreme,  and  all  were  lit- 
erally drenched  with  perspiration.  Every  muscle  and 
fibre  was  called  into  play,  and  labored  with  observable 
and  fearful  effort.  The  eyes  half  closed  and  turned 
upward,  rolled  swiftly  and  frantically.  The  chant, 
which’  grew  every  moment  more  quick  and  loud, 
seemed  at  least  to  proceed  not  from  the  lungs,  but 
from  the  lower  viscera,  which  visibly  struggled  and 
agonized  in  sustaining  this  vocal  accompaniment. 
These  profound,  abdominal  notes,  painfully  loud  and 
piercing,  though  half-stifled  in  their  emission,  would 


262 


Frantic  Cries. 


more  proper!}"  give  the  name  of  grunting  than  of  howl- 
ing dervises  to  these  deluded  people.  Xow  and  then, 
however,  the  strained  voice  broke  away  from  its  im- 
prisonment, and  fell  upon  the  ear  of  the  spectator  in 
shrill,  frantic  tones,  which  might  without  impropriety 
be  called  screaming  or  howling. 

The  chief,  who  led  the  performance  from  his  seat 
on  the  scarlet  fleece,  seemed  less  moved  than  any  one 
else,  but  he  labored  with  all  the  arts  of  which  long  ex- 
perience had  made  him  a most  perfect  master,  to  work 
up  the  feelings  of  the  performers  to  the  highest  pitch, 
and  increase  their  already  dangerous  excitement  into 
absolute  frenzy.  He  artfully  varied  his  chant,  and 
made  it  more  rapid,  low,  and  piercing.  He  looked 
with  approving  sanctimonious  smiles  upon  the  most 
extravagant  and  rapt  of  the  throng.  He  occasionally 
clapped  his  hands,  and  several  times  broke  out  into 
stirring  appeals  and  exhortations.  An  instrument  of 
music,  a rude  tambourine,  occasionally  poured  in  its 
hoarse,  thrilling  notes. 

With  several  of  the  dervises  the  performance  ended 
in  convulsions,  a result  which  seemed  to  be  expected 
as  well  as  desired,  for  two  or  three  persons  who  took 
no  part,  stood  watching  for  such  cases,  and  hastened  to 
receive  the  falling  victims  in  their  arms.  They  carried 
them  to  the  vacant  area  in  the  middle  of  the  hall,  and 
employed  friction,  and  striking  the  palms  of  the  hands 
and  the  soles  of  the  feet  to  restore  them.  The  first 
unfortunate  returned  in  a few  minutes  to  his  place 
and  devotions,  which  soon  brought  on  a return  of 
spasms. 


A Strange  Sight. 


263 


There  was  one  poor  fanatic  who  attracted  peculiar 
attention  by  his  general  appearance,  and  the  superior 
frenzy  to  which  he  attained.  He  wore  a dark  filthy 
dress.  His  hair  and  beard  coal  black,  were  long,  thick, 
and  bushy.  At  every  vibration  it  waved  in  the  air, 
and  lashed  the  faces  and  eyes  of  those  next  him,  as 
with  a whip  of  scorpions,  then  falling  over  his  own 
face  and  breast,  quite  hid  them  from  our  sight.  A 
withered  arm  frightfully  scarred  and  distorted,  which 
he  kept  bare,  and  swinging  through  the  air  like  a club, 
added  to  the  really  frightful  appearance  of  this  fanatic. 
He  outstripped  all  his  fraternity  in  extravagance,  and 
at  length  leaping  from  his  place,  pitched  headlong 
upon  the  pavement  in  strong  convulsions.  Every 
nerve  and  muscle  was  strained  and  distorted  to  the 
utmost,  and  his  head  and  feet 'were  brought  almost  in 
contact  by  the  violence  of  his  distortions.  , The  usual 
means  were  resorted  to  for  his  recovery.  The  chief 
men  came  forward  and  kissed  him,  or  rubbed  their 
beards  over  his  filthy  face. 

One  who  came  in  after  the  ceremonies  began,  and 
was  received  with  the  most  profound  respect,  came 
and  breathed  upon  him  again  and  again..  This  man, 
as  I understood,  is  a great  santon,  who  works  miracles, 
and  a number  of  children  were  brought  at  intervals  of 
the  performance  to  obtain  his  blessing.  He  took  them 
in  his  arms,  laid  his  hand  upon  their  bosoms,  and,  in- 
clining his  head,  breathed  upon  their  faces.  The  con- 
vulsions of  the  fanatic,  however,  were  too  strong  to 
yield  to  such  remedies,  though  often  repeated,  and, 
after  waiting  a considerable  time  to  see  him  restored,  I 


2G4 


Howling  Dervises. 


left  the  place  whilst  he  was  yet  struggling  in  the  arms 
of  three  or  four  of  the  dervises. 

It  was  a strange  sight  I had  been  looking  upon,  and 
strange  sounds  conspired  with  it  to  put  my  brain  in  a 
whirl.  My  nerves  had  suffered  greatly  from  witness- 
ing such  a scene,  and  I retired  thanking  God  for  the 
light  of  the  Gospel  of  His  Son.  The  Mohammedans, 
of  whom  a large  number  were  spectators  of  this  scene, 
evidently  regarded  it  with  the  deepest  reverence.  Sev- 
eral of  them  occasionally  advanced  to  the  arena  and 
took  part  in  the  exercises,  but  without  attaining  or  ap- 
parently aspiring  to  the  perfect  absorption  and  frenzy 
which  the  practised  and  highly  excitable  nerves  of  the 
initiated  enabled  thefti  to  command,  or,  more  properly, 
rendered  unavoidable.  Some  half  a dozen  small  boys 
also  participated  in  the  exercises.  They  seemed  to  be 
in  training  as  noviciates. 


% 


1 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


THE  SULTAN. 

June  26th.  This  day,  Friday,  is  the  Mussulman 
sabbath.  The  public  institutions  are  all  closed,  and 
other  objects  and  places  usually  visited  by  travellers, 
if  they  are  kept  wholly  or  chiefly  by  Turks,  are  inac- 
cessible. Without  adverting  to  this  fact,  with  which 
I was  well  enough  acquainted,  I proceeded  to  the  cit}^, 
at  an  early  hour,  with  a view  of  examining  some  ob- 
jects of  minor  interest,  which  I had  overlooked  or 
omitted  in'  former  excursions.  A shabby,  dirty  Jew 
soon  forced  himself  upon  us  as  a guide,  professing,  as 
usual,  to  know  everything,  and  to  be  able  to  secure  us 
admission  to  whatever  we  might  desire. 

We  followed  him  for  some  time  without  succeeding 
in  getting  access  to  anything,  and  after  losing  two  hours 
or  more,  crossed  the  Golden  .Ilorn  to  Topana,  having- 
arranged  to  visit  a mosque  where  the  Sultan  with  his 
suite  was  expected  to  be  present.  At  this  hour  of 
the  day,  every  Friday,  the  Sultan  is  accustomed  to 
perform  his  devotions  in  one  of  the  mosques  of  Con- 
stantinople or  its  vicinity.  It  affords  a favorable  op- 
portunity to  see  him  and  his  principal  officers,  civil  and 

12 


266 


E O Y A L V I S 1 


military,  of  wliicli  all  strangers  commonly  avail  tnerii' 
selves.  When  the  mosque  selected  for  the  day  is  upon 
the  shorcy  the  royal  visit  is  made  in  barges.  On  other 
occasions  the  Sultan  and  his  court  are  mounted  on 
horseback,  and  the  display  of  fine  horses  and  gay  equips 
ages  is  said  by  those  who  have  witnessed  the  scene  to 
be  very  imposing.  Notice  is  given  in  the  morning  of 
the  mosque  selected  for  the  day,  and  travellers  obtain 
information  from  the  boatmen  of  Topana,  who  arc 
usually  employed  on  these  expeditions. 

We  found,  on  making  inquiry  of  the  watermen,  that 
the  royal  visit  to-day  was  to  be  paid  to  a mosque  on 
the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Bosphorus,  distant  about  eight 
miles.  It  was  already  9^  A.  M.,  and  we  had  to  contend 
against  the  wind  as  well  as  the  strength  of  the  current. 
We  took  a caique  carrying  two  men  and  four  oars. 
These  boats  are  very  long  and  narrow,  of  a very  light 
and  peculiar  construction.  Their  form  is  often  com- 
pared to  that  of  a swallow.  They  more  resemble  an 
egg  divided  longitudinally,  with  the  ends  much  elon^ 
gated,  and  made  very  sharp. 

The  baatmen  occupy  tlic  centre  of  the  boat,  and 
when  no  passengers  are  on  board,  the  prow  appears 
very  low,  and  is  often  submerged  when  the  water  is 
rough,  whilst  the  stern*  rises  several  feet  above  the 
water.  The  passengers,  who  sit  back  of  the  rowers, 
restore  the  equilibrium,  and  the  caique  appears  only  to 
touch  the  water  by  a few  feet  of  the  middle  of  its  sharp 
keel.  There  is  a fore  and  quarter  deck,  which  cover 
a half  or  two-thirds  of  the  entire  length  of  the  boat, 
and  the  utmost  care  is  requisite  in  taking  one’s  place  not 


A Caique. 


267 


fco  overturn  it.  If  alone,  one  must  occupy  the  middle,  and 
avoid  any  inclination  of  the  body  to  the  right  or  left. 
When  more  than  one  person  is  on  board,  still  greater 
care  is  necessary  to  preserve  the  equilibrium  of  this 
most  unsteady  and  ticklish  of  aquatic  vehicles.  So 
many  precautions  are  apt  at  first  to  produce  a little 
apprehension  for  one’s  safety,  which  is  increased  rather 
than  diminished  by  the  timed  and  measured  move- 
ments of  the  men.  When,  however,  everything  is 
properly  adjusted,  and  the  frail  bark  is  carefully  dis- 
entangled from  the  vast  fleet  of  small  craft  that  is  al- 
Avays  to  be  seen  about  the  wharf,  nothing  can  exceed 
the  beauty  of  its  movements  or  the  strength  and  dex- 
terity of  the  boatmen. 

The  long,  sharp  beak,  cuts  the  Avaves  AVith  incon- 
ceiA^able  facility,  and  the  graceful  caique,  gently  rising 
and  falling  Avith  the  heaving  sea,  glides  along  like  the 
playful  flight  of  a swalloAV  through  the  air.  The  oars 
are  of  a form  as  peculiar  as  the  boat.  The  paddle  is 
light  and  elastic,  but  the  handle  swells  into  a thick 
mass,  just  beloAV  the  hands,  in  order  to  balance  the 
longer  end,  which  plays  in  the  Avater.  To  effect  this 
Avith  the  utmost  exactness,  holes  are  often  bored  in  the 
handle  and  filled  Avith  lead.  The  gunAvale  and  benches 
of  the  caiques  are  commonly  ornamented  A\dth  carving, 
Avhich  is  certainly  rude  enough,  and  sometimes  a sen- 
tence of  the  Koran  is  inscribed  in  Turkish  characters. 
Our  boatmen  on  the  present  occasion  Avere  Greeks,  Avho 
are  seldom  seen  on  the  Bosphorus,  being  mostly  em- 
ployed in  plying  betAveen  Constantinople  and  the 
island  and  coasts  of  the  sea  of  Marmora,  for  Avhich 


268  Salutations  to  the  Sultan. 

larger  boats  are  used.  They  proved  to  be  as  fine  fel- 
lows as  ever  pulled  at  an  oar,  and  carried  us  at  a rapid 
rate  towards  the  place  of  our  destination. 

As  we  approached  the  new  palace,  on  the  European 
side  of  the  Bosphorus,  the  present  residence  of  the  Sul- 
tan, -we  had  the  mortification  to  see  the  royal  cortege 
leave  the  wharf  with  a speed  which  bade  defiance  to 
all  competition.  Passing  near  the  palace,  I had  an- 
other opportunity  of  admiring  the  beautiful  architec- 
ture and  graceful  proportions  of  its  immense  fa9ade, 
adorned  with  two  lofty  gates  of  unparalleled  elegance, 
and  with  nearly  one  hundred  marble  columns. 

Just  as  we  were  opposite  the  fortress,  west  of  the 
palace,  we  were  startled  by  the  loud  report  of  artillery. 
A great  number  of  guns  were  discharged  in  quick  suc- 
cession. It  was  the  customary  salutation  to  the  Sultan, 
who  was  more  than  half  a mile  in  advance.  The  same 
order  was  observed  at  the  other  forts,  of  which  we 
passed  half  a dozen.  The  salutation  was  reserved  till 
the  Sultan  was  removed  out  of  the  reach  of  all  harm, 
even  had  the  guns  been  loaded  with  ball.  This  delay, 
I believe,  is  not  usual  elsewhere,  but  it  is  well  devised 
to  secure  the  honored  personage  from  the  painful  shock 
of  such  repeated  discharges  of  artillery. 

The  gay  Ottoman  flag  was  flying  everywhere,  and 
soldiers  with  military  music  were  paraded  along  the 
shore,  to  add  pomp  and  dignity  to  the  scene.  We 
were  left  so  fast  by  the  royal  caiques,  that  we  began  to 
feel  some  apprehension  of  being  too  late  for  the  spec- 
tacle. A multitude  of  boats,  however,  were  going  in 
the  same  direction,  and  we  presumed  to  the  same  place. 


Exciting  Race. 


269 


One  of  them  bore  a pacba,  who  was  not  likely  to  com- 
mit so  important  an  error  as  to  time,  and  our  Greeks 
perceiving  tliat  we  sliould  feel  secure  against  disap- 
pointment whilst  in  such  company,  strained  every 
nerve  to  prevent  the  pacha’s  boat,  which  was  worked 
by  three  men  and  six  oars,  from  passing  us.  It  was  a 
perfect  race  for  several  miles.  The  Turks  were  ashamed 
of  being  outstripped  by  a boat  of  such  inferior  preten- 
sions, and  the  Greeks  were  evidently  impelled  by  na- 
tional pride,  and  their  undying  hatred  for  the  Turk, 
not  less  than  by  a wish  to  gratify  their  customers. 

I never  saw  men  in  any  circumstances  make  greater 
exertions.  They  threw  off  all  their  clothes  but  the 
shirt,  which  was  drenched  with  perspiration.  I was 
gratified  to  find,  on  reaching  the  point  opposite  the 
mosque  where  we  were  to  turn  across  the  Bosphorus, 
that  we  were  still  in  advance  two  or  three  boats’  length. 
Here  our  noble  fellows  slackened  their  oars,  and  al- 
lowed their  fairly  beaten  antagonists  to  pass  them.  A 
point  of  etiquette  had  occurred,  and  they  feared  to  take 
precedence  of  a high  public  functionary  in  approaching 
the  landing-place.  Not  a word  was  said,  not  even  a 
smile  was  seen,  but  the  satisfaction  of  our  men  was 
evident  and  excessive,  and  we  did  not  fail  to  congratu- 
late them  upon  their  achievement  in  a manner  more 
undisguised  than  they  would  have  thought  it  prudent 
to  employ. 

The  Sultan  was  in  the  mosque,  which  was  about 
forty  yards  from  the  edge  of  the  water.  The  interven- 
ing space  was  filled  with  soldiers  and  curious  specta- 
tors, including  many  Franks,  who,  like  ourselves,  were 


270 


Royal  Barges. 


waiting  in  well  chosen  positions  to  see  the  object  of 
their  expedition,  as  he  should  retire  from  the  place  of 
prayer. 

We  were  kept  waiting  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
which  afibrded  us  opportunity  to  examine  the  splendid 
caiques  which  were  moored  at  the  wharf.  There  were 
six  royal  barges,  besides  a multitude  belonging  to  mil- 
itary and  other  ofiicers.  The  two  largest  bore  the  Sul- 
tan and  his  ministers,  and  four  of  smaller  dimensions 
seemed  to  be  designed  as  guard-boats,  two  sailing  be- 
fore, and  two  behind,  the  royal  caiques.  These  were 
of  the  most  graceful  form  and  splendid  decorations. 
They  must  have  been  nearly  eighty  feet  in  length,  and 
each  was  rowed  by  two  or  four  men,  selected  for  their 
size  and  youth,  no  less  than  for  dexterity  and  strength. 
They  were  uniformly  dressed  in  loose  trousers,  and  a 
long  shirt,  with  very  broad  flowing  sleeves,  all  perfect- 
ly white  and  clean,  and  confined  at  the  waist  with  a 
girdle.  The  prow  and  stem  were  very  lofty,  rising 
many  feet  above  the  water,  and,  like  every  other  part 
of  the  boat,  were  literally  covered  with  gold. 

The  Sultan’s  seat  was  on  a sort  of  quarter-deck,  cov- 
ered by  a canopy,  of  which  the  frame-work  was  gilded, 
and  the  covering  of  scarlet  broad-cloth,  and  hung  vdth 
curtains  of  scarlet  silk  velvet,  deeply  bordered  and 
fringed  with  gold.  The  cushions  were  richly  embroid- 
ered with  gold,  and  the  deck  was  covered  with  a sump- 
tuous carpet.  The  ropes  by  which  the  boats  were  moor- 
ed to  the  shore  were  of  purple.  A long  carpet  of  blue 
cloth  extended  from  the  boat  to  the  door  of  the  mosque, 
in  order  that  the  descendant  and  representative  of  the 


The  Sultan. 


271 


Prophet  might  not 'set  his  foot  upon  the  vulgar  earth, 
A man  continued  to  sweep  it  with  a brush,  to  prevent 
the  accumulation  of  dust. 

At  the  end  of  nearly  half  an  hour,  the  attendants 
began  to  come  out  of  the  mosque,  and,  from  the  pre- 
parations amongst  the  bargemen  and  soldiers,  it  was 
evident  the  corti^ge  was  soon  to  move.  A great  many 
high  officers  of  the  state  and  army  successively  made 
their  appearance.  Several  of  them  were  fine-looking, 
venerable  men,  with  gray  moustaches.  Hallil  Pacha, 
the  lately  dismissed  minister,  and  brother-in-law  to  the 
Sultan,  was  one  of  them.  They  wore  green  coats,  stars 
of  diamond  on  their  breasts,  and  their  swords  and 
vests  glittered  with  gold  and  precious  stones. 

After  the  due  arrangements  had  been  made,  and  sol- 
diers were  drawn  up  in  two  lines  on  either  side  of  the 
way,  with  other  preparations  a little  tedious  to  an  im- 
patient spectator,  anxious  to  see  the  principal  object, 
the  Sultan  at  length  made  his  appearance,  preceded 
by  a functionary,  religious,  I suppose,  bearing  before 
him  a censer  smoking  with  incense,  and  accompanied 
by  high  officers,  who  carried  the  folds  of  his  ample 
cloak.''*  lie  had  on  a common  red  cap  or  fez,  with  a 

* A writer  in  an  English  journal  of  October,  1853,  referring  to 
the  impending  war  with  Russia,  states : “ An  ancient  custom  re- 
quires the  Sultan  to  march  to  battle  against  the  infidel  at  the  head 
of  his  sacred  troops.  This  custom  has  degenerated  into  a fiction. 
In  accordance  with  it,  however,  the  Padishah  is  preparing  to  quit 
his  palace,  and  during  the  war  he  will  inliabit  the  kiosk  atTherapia, 
which  liis  father  Mahmoud  occupied  during  the  late  Russian  war,  and 
which  is  being  prepared  for  his  reception,  and  is,  we  may  add,  vast- 
ly more  comfortable  than  the  tent  of  liis  great  ancestor,  Suleiman 
the  Magnificent” 


272  Gorgeous  Spectacle. 

brilliant  on  the  front.  The  collar  of  his  frock-coat 
was  covered  with  splendid  diamonds,  and  a diamond 
star  hung  on  his  breast.  He  is  tall,  nearly  six  feet, 
well  made  for  a Turk,  and  looks  very  serious,  thought- 
ful, and  rather  pale.  His  forehead  would  be  pro- 
nounced intellectual,  and  the  expression  of  his  coun- 
tenance denotes  energy  and  character.  He  is  remark- 
ably well-grown  for  a youth  of  seventeen  or  eighteen 
years  old,  and  has  an  uncommon  though  still  thin 
beard,  which  is  unshaven. 

The  Turks  raised  their  hands  to  their  bosoms,  and 
made  a solemn  inclination' of  the  head, — the  Franks 
uncovered  and  bowed,  according  to  the  custom  of  their 
country.  The  Sultan  regarded  them,  one  by  one  with 
his  piercing  black  eye,  but  deigned  no  other  recogni- 
tion of  their  homage  to  him.  This  is  the  custom  here, 
and  is  less  troublesome  than  the  European  fashion, 
which  exacts  from  kings,  when  they  ride  through  the 
streets,  the  toil  of  taking  off  the  hat  to  every  person 
who  salutes  them.  The  Sultan  was  conducted  to  his 
seat  in  the  barge  by  high  officers,  who  knelt  before  him 
as  they  adjusted  his  cushions  and  the  folds  of  his 
cloak. 

The  cortege  of  caiques,  as  they  pushed  off  from  the 
shore  and  glided  down  the  Bosphorus,  was  a truly 
magnificent  spectacle.  It  was  just  twelve  o’clock,  and 
as  the  sun  poured  its  flood  of  light  through  a cloudless 
sky  on  the  tout  ensemble,  glittering  with  purple  and 
gold,  the  scene  took  the  hue  of  a gorgeous  enchant- 
ment, and  became  too  bright  for  the  eye  to  look  stead- 
ily upon  it.  . The  water  which  trickled  from  the  gild- 


Gorgeous  Spectacle. 


273 


ed  paddles,  as  they  rose  and  fell  with  the  most  exact 
regularity,  seemed  converted  into  shining  pearls.  . I 
was  reminded  of  the  triumphant  procession  of  Cleo- 
patra on  the  bosom  of  the  Cydnus,  when 

“ The  barge  she  sat  in,  like  a burnished  throne, 

Burnt  on  the  water,, the. .poop  was  beaten  gold  ; 

' Purple  the  sails, — the  oars  were  silver ; 

Which  to  the  tune  of  flutes  kept  stroke.” 

It  was  by  far  the  most  oriental  spectacle  I have  ever 
seen. 


12* 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


TURKISH  SOLDIERS. 

Just  below  the  mosque  where  these  ceremonies  took 
place,  a small  stream  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Bos- 
phorus. It  forms  a fertile  vale,  shaded  with  thick 
spreading  trees.  In  the  warm  season,  this  is  one  of 
the  most  favorite  retreats  of  the  Turks,  where  they 
spend  a few  hours  in  the  heat  of  the  day.  Here  they 
bring  their  harems  to  enjoy  the  country  air,  who,  sit- 
ting in  groups  and  covered  with  white  veils,  feast  on 
confectionary,  whilst  their  watchful,  taciturn  lords,  re- 
clining at  a distance  on  carpets  or  mats  spread  on  the 
ground  in  the  shade,  smoke  their  long  chibouks  and 
sip  black  coffee. 

The  place  is  called  the  Heavenly  Waters,  and  some- 
times the  Sweet  Waters  of  Asia.  I saw,  both  in  going 
and  returning,  a great  many  Turkish  soldiers,  who 
were  drawn  up  along  the  shore  to  do  honor  to  the 
young  sultan,  and  I was  struck,  as  I always  am,  with 
their  very  unmilitary  appearance.  But* one  never  sees 
amongst  them  the  rude,  disorderly  conduct,  and  bois- 
terous merriment,  so  common  amongst  undisciplined 
and  ill-governed  troops  in  other  countries.  This  would 


Turkish  Soldiers. 


275 


be  unnational  and  inconsistent  with  tlie  sluggish  tem- 
perament and  grave  manners  of  a Turk.  I refer  to 
the  want  of  everything  in  their  appearance  and  bearing 
which  belongs  to  a regular  well-trained  soldier.  They 
are  mostly  boys,  many  of  them  cannot  be  above  twelve 
or  fourteen  years  of  age,  and  are  scarcely  half  grown. 
The  veterans  are  said  to  be  on  the  frontiers  in  active 
service,  whilst  the  young  recruits  are  retained  in  the 
fortresses  and  barracks  in  and  near  the  capital,  to  iDcr- 
feet  their  discipline.* 

* A writer  in  an  English  periodical,  November  1853,  presents  a 
striking  picture  of  the  gathering  together  of  the  Turkish  troops  in 
the  city  of  the  Sultan,  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities  with 
Russia. 

“ Since  the  war  manifesto  was  publicly  read  at  Constantinople, 
the  war  fever  has  been  continually  increasing,  and  every  one  is  so 
intent  on  procuring  arms,  that  even  the  most  useful  articles  of  house* 
hold  furniture  are  sold,  if  the  necessary  funds  for  the  purchase  can- 
not be  raised  in  any  other  way.  In  the  midst  of  a population  roused 
to  war,  no  lawless  act  whatever  is  heard  of.  European  travellers, 
with  their  wives  and  daughters,  walk  fearlessly  about  the  bazars  of 
the  capital ; nor  have  we  to  record  a single  instance  of  insult  to  a 
Christian,  either  native  or  foreigner.  The  behavior  of  the  Asiatic 
hordes  in  the  capital  and  its  environs,  is  described  as  exemplary. 
A stranger  cannot  walk  through  the  streets  of  Constantinople  with- 
out seeing  the  most  evident  signs  of  war.  Troops  of  the  line  are 
marching  and  counter-marching ; steamers  are  daily  embarking 
men,  horses,  and  baggage.  The  narrow  streets  and  ricketty  wooden 
houses  tremble  to  the  roll  of  heavy  ordnance  dragged  over  rugged 
pavement.  But  these  are  the  preparations  of  the  government,  the 
mustering  of  the  organized  forces  of  regular  warfare.  ^ 

“ Besides  all  this,  we  see  the  numerous  volunteer  corps  of  citizens 
arming  themselves  to  resist  their  northern  foe.  The  firemen  of 
Stamboul — as  stout,  active,  and  rough  a set  of  men  as  any  city 
coul4  furnish — march  past,  armed  with  heavy  axes  and  pistols, 


276 


The  Turkish  Army. 


This  is  probably  true,  and  it  would  certainly  be  little 
less  than  a sacrifice  to  send  the  juvenile  bands  which 
I saw  about  Constantinoj)le,  into  the  field  against  th6 
veteran  Egyptian  regiments  of  Ibrahim  Pasha.  As  far 
as  I had  opportunity  to  witness  the  military  exercises 
of  these  troops,  they  were  on  a par  with  their  personal 
appearance.  They  were  ludicrously  awkward  in  their 
motions  and  attitudes,  straggled  from  the  line,  and 
obeyed  the  word  of  command  without  any  pretensions 
to  the  observance  of  time. 

The  Turkish  army,  it  is  well  known,  have,  ever  since 
the  destruction  of  the  Janissaries,  been  trained  accord- 
ing to  European  tactics.  The  military  system  of  France, 
always  the  best  in  Europe,  has,  I believe,  been  adopted. 
French  officers  have  been  employed  to  communicate 

much  like  the  ancient  janissaries.  Troops  of  lazy  apprentices,  joined 
with  gray-beard  and  respectable  shopkeepers,  who  have  buckled  on 
their  fathers’  or  grandfathers’  sword,  and  burnished  up  some  ancient 
firelock,  are  repairing  to  the  Seraskier  to  tender  their  services,  while 
rude  Turkoman  shepherds,  from  the  mountains  of  Anatolia,  armed  to 
the  teeth,  are  gazing  with  stupid  wonder  on  the  strange  city  life  into 
which  they  are  introduced  for  the  first  time^  Bodies  of. irregular 
liorsemen — Kurdish,  Turcoman,  and  Arab  freebooters,  whose  cos- 
tumes and  arms  are  those  of  the  middle  ages — are  from  time  to  time 
observed  following  some  bearded  warrior,  the  barbaric  grandeur  of 
whose  arms  and  dress  mark  him  as  the  chief  of  a clan.  Those  who 
have  travelled  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  Turkish  empire,  and 
who  fancied  they  could  recognise  its  various  tribes  and  peoples,  are 
now  at  fault,  since  the  alarm  of  war  has  called  from  unknown  soli- 
tudes tribes  of  whose  existence  they  were  ignorant.  The  other  day 
a troop  of  strange  people  from  a far  country  appeared,  whose  arms 
were  scimitars  and  bows  and  arrows:  they  were  clothed  in  loose 
white  garments  and  peaked  caps — probably  from  some  remote  val- 
ley of  Daghestan  or  Northern  Kurdistan.” 


The  Turkish  Army. 


277 


instruction  and  discipline  to  the  newly  modelled  regi- 
ments, as  well  as  to  guide  the  schools  established  for 
the  education  of  military  cadets.  Hitherto  these  at- 
tempts at  reform  seem  not  to  have  been  followed  by 
any  very  flattering  success.  In  the  field,  the  new 
troops  have  uniformly  proved  inferior  to  their  ene- 
mies, whether  Eussians,  Greeks,  or  Egyptians,  and 
upon  parade  they  are  certainly  the  most  ungainly, 
slouching,  nnmilitary  body  of  men  I have  ever  seen 
wearing  a soldier’s  uniform.* 

Their  costume  is  Frank,  with  the  exception  of  the 
fez,  or  red  cap,  which  is  universally  worn  by  all  who 
have  laid  aside  the  turban,  both  in  and  out  of  the  army, 
and  from  the  well-known  aversion  of  the  Orientals  to 
the  hat,  it  is  likely  perhaps  to  be  retained  long  after 
every  other  part  of  their  picturesque,  graceful  costume 
shall  have  been  supplanted  by  European  fashions. 
This  cap  is  cylindrical  in  form,  is  eight  or  ten  inches  ins 
height,  and  the  crown  is  ornamented  with  a blue  silk 
tassel,  often  so  long  and  thick  that  it  spreads  out  over 
the  whole  hinder  part  of  the  cap,  in  a manner  very 
pretty  and  picturesque.  All  the  high  officers  of  state 
and  of  the  army,  and  the  Sultan  himself,  wear  this  cap,  • 

* If  we  may  judge  from  an  account  given  by  a writer  in  Bentley’s 
Miscellany  in  1853,  the  progress  of  military  discipline  in  the  Turkish 
army  has  not  been  very  rapid.  He  says,  “ The  Turks  have  an  un- 
disciplined and  raw  infantry,  soldiers  young  and  officers  untaught ; 
an  army,  in  fact,  that  should  go  through  the  schooling  and  the  life 
of  a campaign  in  order  to  become  an  efficient  one.  The  one  hun- 
dred, or  the  one  hundred  ani  fifty  thousand  soldiers  in  the  pay  of 
the  Sultan,  do  not  form  an  army  sufficiently  numerous  to  go  through 
such  an  ordeal. 


278  Unbecoming  Costume. 

as  well  as  the  common  soldier.  It  has  no  rim  nor  pro- 
jection to  protect  the  eyes  from  light  and  heat.  This 
is  a great  defect  in  a climate  where  the  whole  at- 
mosphere glares  and  glows  during  the  summer,  but,  as 
the  head  is  never  uncovered,  and  the  Mohammedan, 
when  he  offers  his  prayers,  is  obliged  to  press  his  fore- 
head many  times  against  the  ground  or  floor  of  the 
mosque,  such  an  appendage  to  the  fez,  however  conve- 
nient on  other  occasions,  could  not  be  adopted. 

Objectionable  as  the  red  cap  may  appear  in  our  eyes, 
it  is  th€  only  item  of  the  soldier’s  wardrobe  which  does 
not  misfit  and  disfigure  him.  A Turk  in  small-clothes 
is  a ludicrous  object.  In  his  stately  turban,  long  beard, 
and  flowing  robes  descending  to  the  feet,  he  is  a respec- 
table and  often  a venerable  figure — his  slouching,  in- 
dolent movements,  his  bare  feet  and  contemptible  cross- 
legged  posture,  are  masked  and  partially  remedied  by 
this  ample,  and  often  magnificent  costume.  In  a close 
coat  and  trowsers,  however,  he  always  makes  a sorry 
and  contemptible  figure.  They  never  fit  well,  the 
pantaloons  hang  in  bags  below  the  knee,  whilst  they 
are  tight  upon  the  thighs — ^the  waistband  binds  like  a 
cord,  whilst  the  seat  and  front  emulate  the  discarded 
petticoat  trowsers  of  the  old  regime. 

It  is  no  better  with  the  coat,  which,  upon  officers 
civil  and  military,  is  always  a frock.  They  button  it 
close  under  the  chin  as  tight  as  a halter,  and  leave  the 
rest  open  to  flutter  in  the  wind.  It  is  always  loose, 
and  in  wrinkles  on  the  shoulders  and  back.  Vests  and 
cravats  are  not  so  commonly  worn,  and  stockings  are 
pretty  much  confined  to  ultra  reformers  and  exquisites. 


279 


\ 


Turkish  Gait. 

, Add  to  all  these  borrowed  deformities,  the  clum- 
sy, shuffling  gait,  which  is  universal.  The  Turk,  man 
and  woman,  shoves  liis  feet  along  the  pavement  instead 
of  lifting  them  up  lightly  as  he  walks.  This  arises 
from  wearing  slippers  or  shoes  down  at  the  heel,  which 
is  common  with  the  men,  and  with  the  other  sex  uni- 
versal. If  a Turk  puts  on  a pair  of  boots,  he  alvvays 
wears  over  them  slippers,  which  may  be  put  off  on  en- 
tering a house  or  mosque.  This  slipper  consists  of  a 
sole,  and  merely  a covering  for  the  toes,  by  which, 
with  care  and  difficulty,  it  is  retained  upon  the  foot. 
From  this  results  the  awkward,  embarrassed  move- 
ment, which  is  observable  in  all.  A company  of  - 
Turkish  gentlemen  or  ladies  walk  as  slowly  as  a fune- 
ral procession,  and  with  a fumbling,  measured  pace, 
which  reminds  one  of  horses  turned  out  to  graze  in 
fetters.  It  may  result  from  the  same  cause,  that  they 
turn  their  toes  in  instead  of  out  in  walking.  I am 
more  inclined,  however,  to  attribute  this  peculiarity  to 
the  universal  habit  of  sitting  cross-legged,  or  of  posi- 
tively sitting  upon  their  feet  and  ancles,  upon  which  a 
Turk  contrives  to  instal  himself  in  regular  form,  as  a 
Frank  does  upon  a cushion.  Such  unnatural  postures, 
begun  in  early  childhood,  can  hardly  fail  of  producing 
a degree  of  distortion  in  the  limbs  as  well  as  of  pre- 
venting natural  and  graceful  motion. 

These  observations  may  be  just  or  otherwise,  but  it 
is  evident  to  me  that  a Turk  in  the  Nazarene  costume, 
as  it  is  here  called,  is  a much  less  handsome  and  noble 
animal  than  the  American  or  European.  His  shoul- 


280 


Turkish  Figure. 


(lers  are  narrow  and  badly  set.  lie  is  disproportion- 
ately large  in  tbe  girth,  seeming  commonly  inclined  to 
corpulency ; the  calves  of  his  legs  are  small  and  ill- 
formed,  and  his  feet  and  ancles,  probably  from  their 
ungainly  action,  appear  more  or  less  distorted. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


DANCING  DERVISES. 

On  my  return  from  this  expedition,  I stopped  in 
Pera,  just  opposite  the  great  cemetery  of  Galata,  to 
witness  the  religious  services  of  a Mohammedan  sect, 
known  as  the  Dancing  Dervises.  They  have  a hand- 
some mosque  and  extensive  apartments  devoted  to  their 
use;  while  a number  of  sumptuous  monuments  and 
tombs  in  a cemetery,  forming  a part  of  the  same  prem- 
ises, give  evidence  of  their  wealth  and  respectability. 
Having  passed  through  the  gate,  which  opens  upon  a 
very  public  street,  we  walked  through  an  ample  paved 
court,  adjoining  which  is  a garden,  planted  with  shrubs 
and  trees.  From  this  court,  by  a second  door,  we 
entered  the  area  which  was  already  occupied  by  the 
performers  in  the  scene  we  had  come  to  witness. 

It  is  a large  hall,  in  the  form  of  an  octagon,  with 
a railing  on  two  sides,  separating  the  space  next  the 
doors  assigned  to  spectators  from  the  large  area  devot- 
ed to  the  religious  exercises.  There  were  about  twen- 
ty-five dervises  present.  They  wore  a very  high,  cap, 
in  the  form  of  a sugar-loaf,  without  any  brim.  It  was 
of  a light  gray  color,  and,  I thought,  made  of  wool. 


282 


Dancing  Dervises. 


like  tlie  body  of  a liat.  Tiieir  dress  consisted  of  a.  close 
jacket  of  white  cotton,  and  a broad  petticoat  of  the 
same  color  and  material,  Avhich  was  so  long  as  to  trail 
by  several  inches  on  the  ground.  A pair  of  slippers 
became  visible  when  they  lifted  up  these  ample  folds 
to  move  the  feet.  Over  all  each  wore  a dark  cloak. 

They  were  standing  in  a circle  round  the  railing, 
and  upon  a signal  given  by  their  chief,  whose  costume 
differed  in  nothing  from  the  rest  but  in  an  immense 
green  turban,  which  he  wore  over  his  sugar-loaf  cap, 
they  began  to  move  and  follow  him  in  single  file,  and 
at  a pace  indescribably  slow,  around  the  area.  On  the 
eastern  side  of  the  octagon,  the  point  nearest  to  Mecca, 
lay  a scarlet  fleece  on  the  pavement.  Upon  approach- 
ing this,  each  bowed  slowly  and  profoundly,  bringing 
his  head  almost  to  the  pavement.  Having  passed  it  in 
front,  he  turned  and  repeated  the  same  ceremony,  and 
then  continued  his  round. 

Some  instruments  of  music,  which  I was  unable  to 
see,  struck  up  a lifeless,  drawling  tune  at  the  com- 
mencement of  this  almost  stationary  promenade.  It 
grew  quicker  by  imperceptible  degrees,  and  the  pageant 
moved  with  a corresponding  increase  of  celerity,  though 
never  I think  so  rapidly  as  a quarter  of  a mile  the  hour. 
Tliis  solemn  procession  around  the  area  was  made,  I 
think,  three  times,  when  the  chief,  taking  his  stand  at 
the  scarlet  fleece,  clapped  his  hands  as  a sign  for  be- 
ginning the  dance — the  music  at  the  same  time  play- 
ing a more  lively  air.  Upon  this,  the  dervises,  as  they 
successively  approached  their  leader,  bowed  reverently 
to  him,  kissed  his  hand,  and  whirled  off  into  the  dance. 


Dancing  D e r v i s e s. 


283 


They  disencumbered  themselves  of  their  cloaks  and 
slippers,  and  commenced  turning  from  left  to  right,  at 
first  slowly,  but  gradually  increased  the  velocity  of  their 
motion,  until  they  whirled  like  the  spinning  of  a top. 
Their  long  petticoats  became  inflated  with  air,  forming 
a cone  six  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base.  The  arms,  at 
first  crossed  upon  the  breast,  Tvere  soon  stretched  out 
horizontally  and  at  full  length,  forming  with  the  body 
a perfect  cross.  The  eyes,  half  closed  in  reverie,  and 
the  face,  were  turned  upward,  and  the  giddy  perform- 
er seemed  lost,  as  no  doubt  he  was,  to  all  earthly 
things  and  thoughts. 

They  continued  these  gyrations  without  intermission 
for  about  fifteen  minntes,  and  the  grace  and  regularity 
of  their  whirl,  together  with  its  amazing  velocity,  are 
really  wonderful.  At  length,  a signal  was  given  by 
clapping  the  hands,  when  the  dance  stopped,  apparent- 
ly to  allow  the  performers  a few  minutes  of  repose.  It 
soon  recommenced  as  before,  and  I was  informed  that 
two  hours  are  passed  in  repetitions  of  the  same  exer- 
cises. There  is  nothing  painful  or  disgusting  in  wit- 
nessing this  spectacle,  as  there  is  in  looking  on  the  per- 
formances of  the  Howling  Dervises.  The  men  are 
cleanlj^  and  well  dressed.  The  Sultan  often  patronizes 
this  set  by  his  presence,  a circumstance  which  has  led 
to  evident  improvements  in  their  personal  appearance, 
as  well  as  their  premises. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


THE  GOLDEN  HORN. 

Between  three  and  four  o’clock,  I set  out  in  com- 
pany with  my  kind  host  and  hostess,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Hamlin,  to  visit  the  Valley  of  Sweet  Waters,  at  the 
head  of  the  Golden  Horn.  The  point  at  which  these  ex- 
cursions usually  terminate,  where  we  went  on  shore,  is 
perhaps  seven  miles,  fr^m  Topana,  where  we  embark- 
ed. Good  boats  of  two  and  three  pairs  of  oars  are  al- 
ways to  be  had  here,  whereas  at  Galata  they  have  not 
usually  more  than  one  pair,  being  used  chiefly  for  trans- 
porting passengers  across  the  harbor  to  Constantinople. 
The  longer  transit  of  the  Bosphorus  is  sometimes, 
though  seldom,  made  in  these  small  caiques,  whilst  in 
excursions  up  the  Bosphorus  to  the  Seven  Towers,  the 
Valley  of  Sweet  Waters,  &c.,  boats  of  two  or  three 
pairs  of  oars  are  almost  invariably  employed.  They 
move  with  greater  rapidity,  and  are  more  agreeable  as 
well  as  safer. 

The  established  fare  in  a small  caique  from  Galata 
to  Constantinople,  is  half  a piastre.  An  excursion  of 
seven  or  eight  miles  in  a four-oared  boat  costs  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  piastres.  The  charge  for  the  same 


285 


New  Steamboats. 

boat  to  Scutari  is  three  piastres.  The  stranger  should 
make  himself  acquainted  with  the  established  prices, 
especially  for  the  shorter  ferriages,  and  without  mak- 
ing any  inquiries  or  stipulations  with  the  boatmen, 
should  lay  the  amount  upon  the  deck,  or  give  it  to  the 
man  at  the  time  of  his  debarkation,  but  not  before. 
In  this  way  he  will  commonly  shun  all  difficulty  and 
altercation.  Should  he  ask  the  price  of  the  watermen, 
or  offer  two  or  three  times  the  customary  fare,  he  is 
taken  for  a stranger,  and  the  most  exorbitant  demands 
are  made  upon  him.  In  one  instance,  a boatman  to 
whom  we  had  incautiously  given  five  piastres  instead 
of  three,  his  legal  fare,  seized  our  effects,  and  clamor- 
ously refused  to  let  them  go  without  the  payment  of 
fifteen  piastres.  These  boatmen  are  nearly  all  Turks, 
and  though  very  expert  in  their  profession,  they  are 
certainly  as  great  rogues  as  any  of  the  craft  with  whom 
I have  happened  to  have  intercourse. 

In  my  way  up  the  Golden  Horn,  I had  another  op- 
portunity of  admiring  the  fine  naval  architecture  of 
Mr.  Ehodes.  We  passed  between  two  steamboats 
moored  in  front  of  the  navy  yard,  built  by  this  gentle- 
man for  the  late  Sultan.  The  smaller  was  constructed 
for  his  personal  use,  to  make  short  excursions  on  the 
Bosphorus  and  elsewhere.  It  has  the  most  perfect 
symmetry  of  form,  and  the  finish  is  admirable.  The 
whole  exterior  is  polished  like  a mirror,  and  reflects 
the  moving  boats  and  other  objects  around  it.  It  is 
richly  adorned  with  gilding,  but  all  in  a chaste  and 
sober  style,  without  any  of  the  tawdriness  usually  ex- 
hibited in  oriental  workmanship. 


286  Hiad  of  the  Golden  Horn. 

The  other  boat  is  larger,  being  designed  for  longer 
voyages,  and  though  less  elaborately  finished,  it  pos- 
sesses similar  excelleneies  of  model  and  construetion.'^ 
It  is  remarkable  that  this  beautiful  new  ship  is  under- 
going repairs  and  alterations.  The  persons  who  have 
been  so  fortunate  as  to  sueceed  Mr.  Ehodes,  are  obliged, 
for  the  sake  of  cousisteney,  to  make  some  praetical 
demonstration  of  their  sincerity  in  charging  that  gen- 
tleman with  incompetency  as  a naval  architect. 

The  head  of  the  Golden  Horn  is  bounded  by  an  ex- 
panse of  flat,  alluvial  meadows,  through  which  the 
small  river  Lycus  discharges  its  waters  by  several 
mouths.  About  a mile  high  up  the  stream,  the  valley 
is  contracted  into  an  inconsiderable  breadth,  and  the 
lofty  hills  approaching  on  each  side  to  within  a few 
yards  of  the  Lycus,  and  conforming  their  direction  to 
its  numerous  sinuosities,  swelling  at  the  same  time  into 
a great  variety  of  graceful  slopes  and  elevations,  con- 
stitute altogether  a very  picturesque  scene.  New  and 
ever  varying  views  are  constantly  opening  upon  the 
eye  as  you  advance,  not  unlike  the  succession  of  pic- 
tures sometimes  seen  in  cosmoramic  exhibitions. 

These  beautiful  hills  are  not  wooded,  and  the  same 
may  be  said  of  the  valley,  with  the  exception  of  some 
small,  unpromising  trees,  which  seem  to  have  been 
planted  and  then  left  to  their  fate.  A little  labor  and 
expense  would  make  this  one  of  the  most  enchanting 
spots  in  the  world,  an  unpleasant  reflection,  which  is 

* In  1862,  steam  navigation  increased  greatly  at  Constantinople. 
More  than  twenty  steamers  were  then  plying  daily  in  the  Bospho- 
rus and  the  Sea  of  ilanuoru. 


Valley  of  Sweet  Waters.  287 


constantly  rising  in  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  as  he 
contemplates  the  inexhaustible  variety  of  beautiful 
sites  and  prospects  which  nature  has  lavished  upon 
Constantinople  and  its  environs. 

At  the  distance  of  perhaps  five  miles  from  the  city, 
we  j)assed  a handsome  kiosk  close  to  the  right  bank 
of  the  river.  I was  told  it  belonged  to  a pasha,  as  in- 
deed one  never  sees  a tasteful  well-kept  house  in  town 
or  country,  which  does  not  belong  either  to  the  Sultan 
or  to  some  of  his  officers.  Others  are  too  poor,  too  un- 
cultivated, or  too  cautious  to  aspire  to  these  elegancies. 
W e landed  opposite  to  a guard-house,  where  a few  sol- 
diers are  stationed  to  preserve  order  amongst  the  visit- 
ors of  all  classes  who  throng  these  gTounds  upon  every 
fair  day. 

The  valley  here  expands  into  a broader  plain,  still 
bounded  by  lofty  hills.  A large  number  of  noble 
spreading  trees  afford  shade  to  the  groups  who  come 
here  to  breathe  country  air,  as  well  as  to  the  smaller  ^ 
number,  who  may  have  a taste  for  the  more  active 
pleasure  of  promenading.  There  are  some  mean-look- 
ing coffee-houses,  at  a little  distance  from  which,  chairs 
and  the  usual  refreshments  are  brought  by  servants, 
who  approach  you  with  a profusion  of  salams  and 
other  solemn  formalities,  which  pertain  to  Turkish 
etiquette. 

A few  rods  higher  up  the  river  is  a kiosk,  or  sum- 
mer palace,  belonging  to  the  Saltan.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  an  extensive  lawn,  which  is  surrounded  with 
a ruinous  fence  and  long  rows  of  very  fine  trees.  A 
little  above  the  palace,  a dam  is  thrown  across  the 


288 


Eoyal  Palaces, 


river,  now  nearly  dry,  which  forms,  when  there  is 
water,  a pretty  fantastic  cascade.  The  dam,  like  every- 
thing upon  the  premises,  is  dilapidated.  The  marble 
blocks,  of  which  it  is  constructed,  are  broken  or  dis- 
placed, and  the  gingerbread  work,  designed,  I suppose, 
to  produce  a play  of  cross  currents  and  jets  for  the 
amusement  of  the  Sultan’s  women  and  children,  is 
nearly  demolished.  The  kiosk  is  badly  built  of  lath 
and  plaster  and  wood.  It  is  of  a faded  yellow  color, 
and  in  a very  ruinous  condition.  The  Sultans  display 
great  taste  and  magnificence  in  their  palaces,  but  they 
are  veritable  Turks  after  all,  repairing  nothing  and 
building  always  in  the  slightest  manner. 

If  the  sovereign  takes  a fancy  to  a particular  resi- 
dence, it  is  fitted  up,  or  more  properly  rebuilt  with 
lath  and  plaster  or  clapboards,  and  the  whole  gaudily 
decorated  with,  paint  and  gilding.  In  the  meantime 
all  other  royal  edifices  are  neglected,  and  in  a few 
years  become  utterly  ruined,  until  a new  caprice  in  the 
Sultan,  or  the  accession  of  a successor,  chances  to  visit 
them  with  the  renovating  process.  This  barbarous 
and  cliildish  policy  has  the  double  disadvantage  of  be- 
ing the  most  expensive,  and  of  always  keeping  the  roy- 
al palaces  in  such  a mean  and  shabby  condition  as  to 
be  a disgrace  to  the  nation.  In  a well-governed  coun- 
try three-fourths  of  them  would  be  sold  or  pulled 
down,  and  in  a civilized  one  the  rest  would  be  kept  in 
repair. 

My  attention  was  called,  on  our  return  to  the  city, 
to  a great  number  of  small  marble  columns  scattered 
over  the  slopes  and  summits  of  the  hills  that  rise  on 


H A S K R A. 


289 


either  side  of  the  valley.  These  monuments  mark  the 
spots  where  the  arrows  of  the  Sultans  have  fallen  when 
they  were  pleased  to  amuse  themselves  with  archery. 
The  late  Sultan  Mahmoud  is  said  to  have  been  passion- 
ately fond  of  this  diversion,  and  to  have  prided  him- 
self much  upon  his  skill  in  drawing  the  bow.  None 
of  his  courtiers  or  generals  were  able  to  compete  with 
him  in  this  exercise.  They  were  probably  too  prudent 
and  courtly  to  attempt  it. 

An  American  gentleman,  who  happened  to  be  near 
on  one  occasion,  when  Mahmoud  was  engaged  in  his 
favorite  amusement,  sent  to  ask  him  for  one  of  the  ar- 
rows which  had  been  honored  by  having  been  sent 
from  his  matchless  bow.  The  Sultan,  evidently  grati- 
fied at  the  request,  as  a courtly  compliment  from  an 
unusual  quarter,  gave  the  necessary  orders  for  comply- 
ing with  it.  The  enchanted  arrow,  however,  in  its  way 
to  the  favored  stranger,  had  to  pass  through  so  many 
hands,  each  of  whom  must  of  course  be  rewarded  with 
a handsome  gratuity,  that  it  turned  out  to  be  rather  an 
expensive  favor. 

The  beautiful  village  of  Haskra,  which  is  near  the 
head  of  the  Golden  Horn,  on  its  north  side,  is  properly 
a suburb  of  Galata,  forming  a part  of  the  vast  city, 
which,  under  the  various  names  of  Pera,  Galata,  To- 
pana,  &c.,  stretches  for  several  miles  along  this  side  of 
the  harbor,  and  is  only  inferior  to  Constantinople  it- 
self in  its  lovely  and  commanding  situation.  Many 
respectable  and  wealthy  Armenian  families  have  their 
residence  here.  Their  principal  church,  which  is  a fine 
substantial  edifice,  occupying  rather  a favorable  site, 

13 


k 


290  Armenian  Church. 

lias  an  anecdote  connected  with  its  recent  history,  illus- 
trative of  the  temper  of  Mohammedanism,  as  well  as  of 
the  policy  adopted  by  the  late  Sultan  and  pursued  by 
his  successor. 

As  the  church  advanced  towards  completion,  the 
bigoted  moulahs  in  the  neighborhood  were  chagrined 
by  its  respectable  style,  and,  above  all,  by  its  command- 
ing position,  which  made  it  a conspicuous  object  from 
the  harbor,  and  even  from  a considerable  part  of  Con- 
stantinople. They  accordingly  applied  to  the  Sultan 
for  a firman  to  forbid  the  further  prosecution  of  the 
work  upon  the  original  plan,  and  to  restrict  the  height 
of  the  church  edifice  so  that  it  should  not  rise  above 
the  neighboring  house,  to  wound  the  eyes  of  the  faith- 
ful. Indignant  at  the  spirit  of  intolerance  and  oppress- 
ion which  led  to  this  application,  the  Sultan  directed 
the  Armenians  to  enlarge  their  plan,  and  erect  an  ad- 
ditional story.  It  is  in  consequence  of  this  order 
that  the  new  church  is  one  of  the  most  respectable 
and  conspicuous  buildings  in  this  part  of  the  city. 

This  village  was  lately  the  site  of  a flourishing  Ar- 
menian school,  which  had  at  one  time  as  many  as  five 
or  six  hundred  pupils.  It  was  established  by  a rich 
banker  for  the  benefit  of  his  people,  and  taught  by  an 
intelligent  and  pious  young  man,  both  acting  under 
the  good  impulses  which  they  had  received  from  the 
labors  of  the  missionaries  of  the  American  Board  of 
Commisiioners  for  Foreign  Missions.  In  the  persecu- 
tion which  subsequently  arose,  the  banker,  after  resist- 
ing many  attempts  to  break  up  this  excellent  establish- 
ment, ultimately  became  discouraged  or  intimidated. 


Mosque  of  Eyoub.  291 

The  pious  teacher  was  sent  into  banishment,  from 
which  he  has  just  obtained  permission  to  return. 

The  mosque  of  Eyoub,  which,  with  the  grounds 
around  it,  is  much  resorted  to  by  the  Turks  for  devo- 
tion, relaxation,  and  pleasure,  is  situated  upon  the 
Golden  Horn,  only  a short  distance  from  the  western 
wall  of  the  city.  We  spent  a few  minutes  in  examin- 
ing the  interesting  objects  in  this  locality.  The  mosque 
has  nothing  worthy  of  special  attention,  being  inferior 
in  its  dimensions,  architecture,  and  decorations  to  many 
others  in  different  parts  of  Constantinople  and  its  vicin- 
ity. It  possesses,  however,  in  the  eyes  of  Mussulmen 
a peculiar  sanctity,  partly  from  its  having  been  conse- 
crated by  its  founder,  Mahomet  II.,  to  the  memory  of 
Eyoub,  who  has  a sort  of  fabulous  reputation  both  as  a 
warrior  and  prophet,  and  partly  from  its  being  the 
mosque  in  which  all  the  Sidtans  are  girded  by  the 
Mufti  with  the  sword  of  state,  a ceremony  which  an- 
swers to  the  ceremonial  of  a coronation  in  other  coun- 
tries. 

Christians  are  not  allowed  to  enter  the  court  of  this 
mosque,  a privilege  allowed  them  in  all  others  in  the 
city.  We  looked  above  the  heads  of  the  disorderly 
crowd  of  boys  who  rushed  to  the  gate  to  forbid  our 
entrance,  and  saw  some  magnificent  plane-trees,  which 
spread  their  deep  refreshing  shade  over  the  greatest 
part  of  the  enclosure,  adding  not  a little  to  our  desire 
to  tread  upon  the  holy  ground.  The  space  between 
the  landing-plaee  and  the  mosque  is  occupied  with 
tombs.  One,  where  a Sultan  and  his  family  repose,  is 
of  peculiar  richness  and  beauty.  In  form  it  resembles 


292 


' The  Sultan’s  Tomb. 


the  other  royal  tombs.  It  is  of  white  marble,  and 
is  hung  with  rare  and  beautiful  shawls.  ^It  is  sup- 
plied with  costly  lamps  and  other  rich  ornaments  of 
gold,  all  kept  fresh  and  clean,  so  as  to  appear  like  a 
new  erection.  The  Turkish  fashion  of  endowing 
tombs  as  perpetual  places  of  prayer,  and  of  commit- 
ting them  to  the  care  of  persons  who  derive  their  sub- 
sistence from  this  appointment,  is  admirably  adapted 
to  preserve  them  from  the  neglect  and  ruin  which 
speedily,  almost  universally,  befall  the  cemeteries  of 
even  the  most  opulent  and  powerful  in  other  parts  of 
the  world.  Whether  the  object  is  worth  the  expense 
incurred  in  attaining  it,  or  is  even  desirable,  is  another 
question. 

There  are  many  single  monuments,  erected  over  the 
graves  of  distinguished  persons,  of  great  sumptuousness 
and  beauty,  and  they  seem  to  be  preserved  with  the 
same  care  as  the  royal  tomb,  from  which  they  are  only 
a few  steps  removed.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  way, 
for  here  is  a street  of  tombs,  is  that  of  a child  of  Ilallil 
Pasha,  son-in-law  to  the  late  Sultan,  and  brother-in-law 
to  the  present.  It  is  a fine  structure,  and  was  probably 
built  for  a family  tomb.  The  pasha  has  within  a few 
weeks  or  months  fallen  into  disgrace,  and  it  is  a strik- 
ing evidence  of  the  speed  and  relentlessness  with  which 
justice  or  vengeance,  as  the  case  may  be,  overwhelms 
the  condemned  in  Turkey,  that  the  grave  of  this  young 
prince  of  the  blood  royal,  has  been  already  despoiled 
of  all  its  costly  ornaments.  Close  to  the  water  is  an 
extensive  coffee-house,  thus  completing  the  tout  ensem- 
ble of  all  that  a Turk  most  desires  in  this  world — a 


A Blighted  Enterprise.  293 

mosque,  a well-sliaded  cemetery,  and  facilities  for 
smoking  his  chibouk  and  drinking  coffee. 

I have  inadvertently  omitted  one  more  object  neces- 
sary to  the  perfection  of  the  Mohammedan  Eden — a 
sumptuous  fountain,  built  of  white  marble,  and  glitter- 
ing in  the  sun  with  a profusion  of  gilding,  which  stands 
at  a little  distance  from  the  Sultan’s  tomb. 

In  prosecuting  our  homeward  voyage,  we  passed  a 
boiler  and  some  other  fragments  of  a steamboat,  lying 
neglected  upon  the  shore.  An  enterprising  Armenian, 
possessed  of  some  wealth,  attempted  to  build  a steam- 
boat for  the  conveyance  of  passengers  or  merchandise. 
Through  want  of  skill  or  some  other  defect,  his  first 
essay  failed,  but,  not  discouraged  by  one  failure,  he 
soon  set  about  constructing  a second,  hoping  to  profit 
by  his  former  mistakes.  His  enterprise  was  arrested 
at  this  stage  by  the  government,  and  a heavy  fine  im- 
posed upon  the  unfortunate  undertaker  in  addition  to 
his  heavy  losses.  The  pasha,  by  whose  department 
this  affair  Vas  cognizable,  alleged  as  the  ground  of  his 
interference,  that  the  man  was  foolishly  squandering 
money,  which,  through  the  medium  of  taxation,  might 
be  .useful  to  the  state.  This  is  a truly  Turkish  method 
of  encouraging  native  talent  and  enterprise.  The  poor 
Armenian  seems  to  have  been  too  much  disheartened 
even  to  gather  up  the  fragments  of  his  disastrous  un- 
dertaking, which  still  strew  the  shore. 


June  27tli.  I passed  over  to  Constantinople  tliis 
morning  at  an  early  honr  to  visit  a few  interesting 
places,  wliicli,  in  my  previous  excursions  in  tlie  city,  I 
had,  from  want  of  time,  or  some  other  cause,  been  un- 
able to  reach.  The  slave  market,  which  was  my  prin- 
cipal object,  I had  once  or  twice  found  closed,  and,  as' 
a good  deal  of  difficulty  is  often  experienced  in  obtain- 
ing admission  here,  I was  accpmpanied  by  one  of  the 
janissaries,  or  cafasses  (as  they  are  called  since  the  fall 
of  that  military  band),  attached  to  the  service  of  the 
American  embassy,  who  was  kindly  furnished  by  Mr. 
Brown,  the  secretary  of  legation.  They  are  a species 
of  executive  officer,  employed  by  all  the  consulates  and 
embassies  in  the  Levant.  They  wear  arms  and  possess 
certain  powers  and  privileges,  with  the  nature  and  ex- 
tent of  which  I am  not  well  acquainted.  Access  is 
readily  given  them  to  several  places  closed  against  the 
more  unattended  strangers,  and  their  lordly  blustering 
is  of  signal  efficacy  in  opening  one’s  way  through  a 
crowd. 

I passed'  through  the  Egyptian  Bazai  as  the  great 


Egyptian  Bazar. 


295 


wholesale  mart  for  drugs  and  medicines  is  called.  I 
do  not  know  the  reason  which  led  to  the  adoption  of 
the  name.  It  was,  perhaps,  applied  to  this  bazar  when 
Alexandria,  or  Cairo,  was  the  great  emporium  from 
which  medicines,  as  well  as  every  other  species  of  mer- 
chandise were  brought.  This  is  a very  extensive 
establishment,  apparently  well  supplied  with  all  the 
variety  of  articles  belonging  to  this  branch  of  trade. 

It  is  kept  almost  exclusively  by  Turks.  I saw  only 
two  or  three  Armenians  here,  and  not  one  Jew,  an-  ' 
other  curious  example  of  the  appropriation  of  certain 
branches  of  business  by  particular  races. 

Like  the  other  bazars,  this  long  street  of  shops  is 
covered  above,  and  as  it  is  not  ventilated,  the  atmo- 
sphere is  strongly  impregnated  with  an  infinite  variety 
of  perfumes  and  odors.  My  head  soon  became  un- 
pleasantly sensible  to  their  influence,  and  I should  im- 
agine that  persons  constantly  employed  here  would  be 
liable  to  very  serious  injury.  The  Egyptian  bazar  is 
only  a few  rods  from  the  northern  wall  of  the  city,  and 
nearer  the  harbor  than  any  other  of  these  great  mer- 
cantile establishments.  The  slave  market,  on  the  con- 
trary, is,  I believe,  the  most  remote  from  the  harbor, 
being  situated  south  of  the  ridge,  which  divides  the 
city  into  two  nearly  equal  inclined  planes.  No  objec- 
tion was  made  to  our  entering  this  mart  of  human 
beings,  nor  did  I perceive  any  sentinels  stationed  near 
the  gates  or  the  streets  leading  to  them. 

It  is  an  irregular  quadrangle,  approached  by  several 
narrow  streets,  which  are  closed  by  gates.  A deep 
gallery,  one  story  high,  runs  around  this  enclosure 


296 


The  Slave  Market. 


with  a row  of  stalls,  or  small,  badly  lighted  rooms  in 
the  rear.  A noble  building,  provided  with  a similar 
gallery,  stands  within  the  area,  which  is  partially  paved 
in  the  prevailing  style  of  Constantinople. 

The  slaves,  of  whom,  I should  conjecture,  four  or 
five  hundred  were  exhibited  to-day  in  the  market,  were 
almost  exclusively  black  girls  from  nine  to  ten  or  six- 
teen years  of  age.  Their  complexion,  their  wooly 
heads,  and  general  physiognomy,  mark  them  indubit- 
ably as  negroes,  though  their  lips  are  not  so  thick,  nor 
their  noses  so  short  and  blunt,  as  those  of  the  African 
race  we  are  so  accustomed  to  see  in  America.  They 
are  a good  deal  darker  than  the  slaves  I saw  in  the 
Cairo  market,  and  have  evidently  been  brought  from 
a different  latitude.  Upon  the  whole,  I should  say 
they  are  a handsomer  and  more  intelligent  looking  race 
than  the  Africans  brought  to  the  United  States,  or  the 
first  generation  of  their  descendants. 

Their  dress  was  very  similar  to  that  most  commonly 
worn  in  the  field  by  female  slaves  in  America — a long 
gown  or  robe  of  coarse  white  cotton  stuff,  and  a parti- 
colored or  red  handkerchief  rather  tastefully  tied  upon 
the  head.  Several  had  the  hair  elaborately  plaited, 
and  all,  or  nearly  all,  wore  large  and  showy  finger- 
rings,  ear-rings,  beads,  and  bracelets.  These  trinkets 
were  of  various  metals,  and  of  rude  workmanship. 
Some  were  evidently  of  gold. 

The  larger  number  of  these  girls  were  seated  upon 
mats  spread  upon  the  ground,  just  in  front  of  the  gal- 
leries— a situation  which  gave  free  access  to  the  buyers 
and  sellers.  A considerable  number  were  seated  upon 


The  Slave  Market.  297 

a sort  of  counter  under  the  back  part  of  the  gallery, 
the  front  of  which  was  furnished  with  a similar  coun- 
ter, on  which  were  many  Turks  smoking  and  drinking 
coffee,  at  the  same  time  that  they  occasionally  survey- 
ed the  slaves  thus  arranged  in  rows  on  either  side  of 
their  divan,  in  a situation  most  favorable  for  inspection. 
These  Turks  I took  to  be  buyers,  who  were  prosecut- 
ing the  business  leisurely,  according  to  their  custom, 
indulging  in  the  meantime  in  their  indispensable  lux- 
uries. 

Several  of  the  dark  rooms  in  the  rear  of  the  gallery 
were  occupied  by  girls  dressed  in  a su^Derior  style,  and 
veiled,  with. the  exception  of  the  nose  and  eyes,  in  the 
Turkish  manner.  They  had  been  selected  from  the 
vulgar  herd  for  their  superior  beauty  and  accomplish- 
ments, and,  being  candidates  for  a higher  destiny,  were 
more  expensively  attked,  and  more  carefully  guarded 
from  the  approach  and  gaze  of  the  crowd.  I saw  no- 
thing indelicate  or  offensive  in  the  negotiations  between 
buyer  and  seller.  The  most  active  agents  were  elderly 
Turkish  women,  who  passed  amongst  the  slaves,  mak- 
ing inquiries,  and  examining  their  forms  and  features. 
In  one  instance,  a gentlemanly  looking  Turk  conduct- 
ed the  investigation  in  person,  but  he  did  no  more 
than  cause  the  girl,  who  was  pretty,  and  might  be  four- 
teen years  of  age,  to  stand  on  her  feet  that  he  might 
have  a view  of  her  stature  and  form.  He  also  felt  her 
arms  and  shoulders.  She  appeared  confused,  but,  upon 
the  whole,  pleased  with  the  attention. 

I observed  amongst  the  owners  a black  man  of  a 
singularly  noble  aspect  and  bearing.  He  was  very  tall 


298 


The  Slave  Market. 


and  perfectly  formed.  His  venerable  beard  descended 
upon  bis  bosom.  His  forehead  was  highly  intellectual, 
and  his  eye  l)lack  and  piercing.  He  wore  a large 
white  turban,  and  a rich  flowing  robe  of  purple  silk. 
His  broad  scarlet  girdle  was  very  splendid,  and  his 
sword  and  pistols,  elaborately  inlaid  and  mounted 
with  gold,  must  have  cost  a very  large  sum.  I never 
saw  so  fine  a looking  black  man,  and  I felt  regret  that 
one  should  be  engaged  in  so  odious  a traffic,  whose 
lofty  attributes  seemed  to  mark  him  as  fitted  to  be  the 
prince  and  benefactor  of  his  people. 

I was  much  struck  with  the  universal  cheerfulness 
of  the  slaves.  Amongst  them  all  I did  not  observe  a 
single  care-stricken  or  sorrowful  countenance.  They 
seemed  desirous  of  attracting  attention,  and  put  on 
their  smiles  whenever  they  saw  a person  approach  who 
was  likely  to  become  a purchaser.  Of  an  age  which 
forgets  all  the  past,  and  looks  upon  the  future  through 
the  medium  of  delusive  hope,  they  seem  elated  at  their 
condition  and  prospects,  and  evidently  consider  their 
removal  from  the  wild  and  savage  scenes  of  their  na- 
tive land  to  a great  and  splendid  metropolis  as  a piece 
of  great  good  fortune,  which  places  them  in  the  way 
of  the  highest  promotion.  These  girls  are  not  usually 
kidnapped,  but  voluntarily  sold  by  their  parents,  who 
train  them  for  this  destination,  and  probably  think 
tliat  by  selling  their  daughters  to  become  waiting-maids 
or  concubines  in  the  rich  families  of  Turkey,  they 
make  the  best  provision  for  their  happiness. 

These -views  are  of  course  inculcated  upon  their  chil- 
dren, who  are  taught  to  look  upon  the  day  when  they 


Oriental  Slavery. 


299 


are  sold  as  the  beginning  of  a more  brilliant  era.  Nor 
are  these  expectations  always,  or  perhaps  usually  dis- 
appointed. Slavery  in  Turkey  and  the  East,  is  a very 
different  thing  from  that  of  the  West  Indies  and  the 
United  States.  The  Africans  become,  almost  without 
exception,  in-door  servants  in  rich  families,  where  they 
perform  little  severe  labor,  and  are  rather  kept  for  play 
than  use.  According  to  .the  universal  testimony  of 
persons  acquainted  with  Turkish  habits,  which  I have 
had  man}^  opportunities  of  verifying  by  what  I have 
seen  in  steamboats  and  elsewhere,  the  slaves  are  treated 
with  great  kindness,  and  even  indulgence — ^rather  as 
equals  than  as  bondmen.  They  are  well  clad,  eat  the 
same  food  with  their  owflers,  and  always  approach 
them  with  an  air  of  freedom  and  familiarity  quite  in- 
consistent with  habitual  oppression  and  hardship. 

Manumission  is  favored  by  the  religion  and  laws  of 
the  country,  as  well  as  by  custom,  and  it  is  so  common 
in  practice,  that  there  are  comparatively  very  few  hered- 
itary slaves.  When  in  addition  to  this  it  is  considered 
that  the  rich  Turks  often  choose  their  wives  and  con- 
cubines in  the  slave  market,  that  the  birth  of  a child 
makes  the  mother  free,  whilst  the  child  of  a concubine 
is  entitled  to  the  same  rights  as  that  of  a wife,  it  will 
be  perceived  that  the  servile  state  in  these  regions  is 
attended  with  many  alleviations,  and  that  it  is  not 
without  some  good  reason  that  the  unreflecting  aspi- 
rants to  so  much  possible  and  not  very  improbable 
good  fortune,  appear  cheerful  and  contented  with  their 
destiny.  It  is  highly  credible  that  in  a majority  of 
cases,  slavery  under  these  circumstances  proves  a boon. 


300  Oriental  Slavery. 

It  is  only  in  more  civilized  countries,  wliere  the  de- 
mand for  expensive  luxuries,  the  pursuits  of  industry, 
and  the  commercial  spirit  always  seek  to  organize  and 
strenuously  employ  the  jDhysical  energies  of  society, 
for  the  attainment  of  their  objects,  that  the  condition 
of  slavery  is  liable  to  become  less  favorable  to  happi- 
ness, than  a state  of  rude  barbarian  freedom,  such  as  is 
enjoyed  amongst  the  African  tribes. 

There  were  no  white  slaves  in  the  market,  and  I was 
informed  that  none  are  ever  exhibited  here.  They  are 
kept  by  the  dealers — almost  always  Jews — at  their  pri- 
vate houses,  where  they  are  instructed  in  such  accom- 
plishments as  are  likely  to  be  valued  in  the  harem,  and 
of  course  increase  their  price.  This  course  of  education 
commonly  embraces  singing  and  dancing,  and  scarce- 
ly ever  the  less  useful  arts  of  reading  and  writing. 
To  these  private  depots  the  rich  sensual  Turk,  who 
has  resolved  to  add  to  the  attractions  of  his  harem,  or 
more  commonly  some  discreet  female  friend,  proceeds 
to  examine  the  merchandise  and  effect  the  purchase. 
Very  high  prices  are  often  paid  for  this  class  of  slaves, 
who  are  mostly  from  Circassia  and  Georgia.  From  one 
to  two  thousand  dollars  is  not  an  uncommon  amount 
to  be  paid  for  a girl.  The  blacks  seldom  command 
above  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  and  are  frequently 
sold  for  seventy  or  eighty  dollars. 

In  returning  from  the  slave  mart,  we  passed  through 
the  bazar  devoted  to  the  sale  of  arms.  The  Turks  are 
peculiarly  fond  of  highly-mounted  swords  and  fire-arms, 
and  they  indulge  in  the  utmost  extravagance  in  the 
purchase  of  them.  A scimitar  often  costs  several  thou- 


Splendid  Bazars. 


801 


sand  piastres,  and  a double-barrelled  gun  much  more. 
The  display  of  these  articles  in  the  bazar  was  imposing 
and  liighly  curious.  Damascus  blades,  though  they 
seem  to  have  lost  a measure  of  their  former  reputation, 
are  still  highly  appreciated,  and,  to  my  unpractised 
eye,  these,  as  well  as  the  gun-barrels  made  in  the  same 
place,  were  the  handsomest  as  well  as  the  best  in  the 
market.  Immense  expense  is  lavished  upon  the  hilts 
and  scabbards  of  the  various  descriptions  of  side-arms 
here  exhibited,  and  the  belts  were  often  covered  with 
gold  and  precious  stones. 

In  viewing  several  of  the  splendid  bazars  of  Con- 
stantinople, which  are  certainly  more  dazzling  and 
magnificent  than  anything  I have  seen  elsewhere,  one 
is  apt  to  imagine  himself  in  the  capital  of  the  most 
wealthy  and  luxurious  people  in  the  world.  Yet  it  is 
only  in  a few  articles  that  a Turk  indulges  or  can  afibrd 
to  indulge  in  great  expense.  He  must  have  a rich 
carpet  of  the  size  of  a table-cloth — an  amber  mouth- 
piece for  his  chibouk — gorgeous  saddle  and  trappings 
for  his  horse,  and,  if  a military  man,  splendid  arms. 
These,  with  a showy  dress,  and  some  embroidered  slip- 
pers and  muslins,  for  his  harem,  seem  to  comprehend 
all  that  is  greatly  expensive. 

He  feeds  on  bread  and  fruit,  drinks  no  costly  wines, 
and  has  no  carriages,  and  the  most  expensive  items  in 
the  expenditures  of  an  American  or  European  are 
scarcely  known  to  him  by  name. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 


EXCURSION  ON  THE  PROPONTIS 

In  the  afternoon  I made  a boat  excursion  with  Mr. 
Hamlin  to  the  Seven  Towers,  crossing  from  Topana 
directly  to  Seraglio  Point,  and  coasting  along  the  Sea 
of  ]\Iarmora,  under  the  southern  wall  of  the  city  to  its 
' west  extent.  The  whole  distance  is  about  seven  miles. 
I never  look  upon  the  seraglio  from  a new  point  of 
view  without  being  more  and  more  impressed  with  the 
unparalelled  advantages  of  its  situation.  Washed  on 
three  sides  b;y  the  sea,  with  the  most  perfect  enjoy- 
ment of  its  pure,  healthful  breezes,  and  yet  in  the 
heart  of  an  immense  capital,  commanding  the  most  de- 
lightful views  of  the  beautiful  cities  of  Pera  and  Scu- 
tari, together  with  an  interminable  prospect  of  water, 
and  noble  mountain  scenery,  with  ample  space  for  gar- 
dens, lawn  and  grove,  this  spot  unites  in  perfection  all 
that  could  make  a royal  residence  attractive.  Yet  this 
palace  was  quite  neglected,  and  even  detested  by  the 
late  Sultan.  Perhaps  his  aversion  grew  out  of  the 
tragic  scenes  enacted  here  during  the  earlier  and  less 
fortunate  part  of  his  reign. 

Just  over  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  seraglio,  near 


Gate  of  Death. 


803 


the  Golden  Horn,  is  seen  a grotesque  and  semi-barbar- 
ous display  of  some  immense  bones  said  to  belong  to 
a whale.  The  Turks  believe  them  to  be  the  skeleton 
of  a giant  some  way  connected  in  his  fate  with  their 
early  history,  and  it  is  perhaps  in  deference  to  this  su- 
perstition that  this  uncouth  exhibition  is  tolerated  in  a 
place  so  little  suitable  to  it.  The  navigation  round 
this  point  is  rendered  difficult  by  the  strong  current 
with  which  the  Bosphorus  pours  its  immense  volume 
of  water  against  this  barrier.  The  agitation  may  have 
been  greater  than  usual  to-day,  -aided  as  it  was  by  a 
strong  north  wind.  The  mass  of  waters  labored,  and 
swelled,  and  chafed  the  shore,  and,  over  a surface  of 
many  acres,  bubbled  like  a boiling  pot.  Boats  are  car- 
ried down  by  the  current  with  great  velocity,  and  care 
is  requisite  to  avoid  being  dashed  upon  the  Point. 
The  rowers  in  ascending  the  stream  are  aided  by  men 
on  the  shore,  who  tow  boats  for  the  distance  of  about 
a quarter  of  a mile.  The  shore  is  faced  here  by  a wall 
of  substantial  masonry,  the  massive  stones  of  which  are 
fastened  together  with  iron  clamps.  A range  of  build- 
ings, forming  a part  of  the  palace  of  the  seraglio,  oc- 
cupies a site  close  to  the  water,  and  along  the  eastern 
extremity  of  this  immense  enclosure.  They  have,  as 
seen  from  the  water,  a light  and  agreeable  appearance, 
and  are  admirably  situated  to  enjoy  the  full  advantage 
of  the  breezes  that  every  day  blow  over  this  point 
from  the  Euxine  or  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 

A little  farther  south,  on  this  side  of  the  seraglio,  is 
the  gate  through  which  persons  condemned,  or  suspect- 
ed of  crime  against  the  State,  are  conveyed,  to  be  thrown 


304 


Oriental  Barbarity. 


into  the  Bosphorus.  Death  by  the  bow-string,  and  a 
grave  in  the  deep  dark  waters,  may  be  said  to  have 
been  the  common  fate  of  Turkish  viziers  and  states- 
men, who  have  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  become  dis- 
tinguished by  their  talents  and  wealth.  Many  inmates 
of  the  harem,  who  have  incurred  by  any  means  the 
suspicion  or  the  displeasure  of  their  capricious  lord, 
have  been  put  in  sacks,  and  made  to  expiate  their  of- 
fences or  misfortunes  in  the  same  dark  abyss.  A num- 
ber of  mutes,  maintained  as  spies  in  every  part  of  the 
palace,  and  present  at  every  interview  and  conversa- 
tion which  takes  place  within  its  walls,  are  employed 
as  executioners.  Upon  an  intimation  given  by  the 
Sultan,  these  messengers  of  death  proceed  to  the  pres- 
ence of  the  doomed  victim, — to  whom  their  approach 
probably  conveys  the  first  apprehension  of  danger,  or 
even  of  a loss  of  the  royal  favor, — strangle  him  with  a 
bow-string,  and  then  cast  the  body,  laden  with  weights, 
into  the  sea.  No  announcement  is  made  of  the  fact, 
and  it  is  only  the  mysterious  and  sudden  disappearance 
of  the  victim  that  communicates  to  the  world  the  sad 
intelligence,  to  which  the  tongue  of  the  boldest  would 
tremble  to  give  utterance. 

Philanthropy  would  rejoice  to  believe  that  these 
atrocities,  which  so  long  disgraced  the  Turkish  court, 
have  passed  away  with  many  other  relics  of  barbarism. 
It  is  known,  on  the  contrary,  that  secret  executions 
were  never  more  frequent  than  in  the  late  reign.  Dur- 
ing his  struggle  with  the  janissaries,  Mahmoud  silently 
prepared  the  way  to  the  victory,  which  he  finally 
achieved  by  the  secret  destruction  of  their  most  able 


F I S H I N G-.H  OUSE. 


805 


and  popular  officers.  One  after  another,  these  leaders 
of  the  turbulent  band  were  clandestinely  led  to  their 
fate  through  the  bye-ways  of  the  seraglio,  or  conduct- 
ed to  some  of  the  fortresses  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Constantinople,  from  which  they  never  returned. 

It  is  understood,  too,  that  the  accession  of  the  pres- 
ent Sultan  during  the  last  year,  was  signalized  by  the 
mysterious  disappearance  of  individuals  suspected  of 
evil  sentiments  or  designs.  For  some  time  a fearful 
suspense  hung  over  public  affairs,  and  it  was  doubtful 
whether  the  partisans  of  reform  or  of  the  old  regime 
would  triumph.  When  victory  was  finally  declared 
for  the  former,  there  is  no  reason  to  believe  that  they 
used  their  success  with  any  peculiar  moderation.  The 
city  was  filled  with  dark  rumors  of  secret  executions, 
and  it  was  generally  believed  that  the  mute  emissaries 
of  death  in  the  seraglio  were  very  actively  engaged. 
The  excitement  died  away,  as  any  excitement  must, 
depending  on  rumors  which  it  is  dangerous  to  repeat. 

Near  this  gate  of  death,  we  passed  a fishing-house,  a 
peculiar  structure,  seen,  as  far  as  I am  aware,  only  in 
the  Bosphorus.  Several  long  posts  are  set  up  in  the 
water  at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  secured  against 
being  carried  away  by  the  current,  by  cables  stretched 
in  different  directions.  On  these  posts  a hut  is  erected, 
covered  with  mats  or  a light  roof.  Here  a man  is  con- 
stantly stationed  to  watch  the  approach  of  the  shoals 
of  fish,  and  to  give  notice  to  his  associates  upon  the 
shore  to  draw  their  net,  which  is  spread  in  a situation 
to  intercept  their  progress.  A great  many  of  these 
houses  are  seen  in  passing  up  the  Bosnhorus  to  Buyuk- 


306 


Columns  in  the  Wall. 


dere  and  the  Black  Sea.  The  fishermen  often  take  a 
vast  number  of  fish,  which  supply  the  markets  of  Con- 
stantinople. 

Another  singular  method  of  taking  fish,  much  used 
here,  I have  also  seen  at  Smyrna  and  other  parts  of 
Asia  Minor.  A brilliant  light  is  kindled  in  a brazier 
upon  the  prow  of  a boat,  which  is  rowed  to  the  proper 
fishing  grounds  in  the  evening.  The  fish  collect  in 
numbers  around  the  boat,  attracted  by  the  blaze,  and 
are  easily  pierced  with  a spear.  These  boats  have  a 
very  picturesque  appearance  as  they  move  in  different 
directions  in  a dark  night,  their  blazing  fires  flashing 
upon  the  water  as  they  shift  their  course,  or  are  tossed 
by  the  gently  swelling  waves. 

The  walls  of  the  city,  on  the  side  of  the  Sea  of  Mar- 
mora, have  a general  resemblance  to  those  on  the  north, 
and  west  of  the  town.  They,  however,  lack  towers, 
and  give  some  other  proofs  of  being  the  work  of  a dif- 
ferent and  later  age.  The  most  striking  of  these  is  the 
great  number  of  marble  columns  of  various  sizes,  but 
mostly  small,  which  are  seen  built  into  the  foundations, 
all  the  way  from  Seraglio  point  to  this  western  extrem- 
ity, near  the  Seven  Towers.  I counted  more  than  two 
hundred  of  these  columns,  and  think  there  cannot  be 
less  than  a thousand  so  employed.  We  should  be  led 
to  conclude  that  this  part  of  the  wall  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  violence  of  war,  together  with  a large 
portion  of  the  public  edifices  of  the  city,  and  that  in 
the  pressing  urgency  of  the  occasion,  the  precious  and 
costly  materials  of  the  latter  had  been  used  in  the  re- 
construction of  the  indispensable  public  defences. 


Calico  Factory. 


307 


I am  not  aware,  however,  that  such  a conclusion 
finds  any  countenance  in  the  history  of  Constantinople. 
But  for  the  employment  of  so  many  columns  and  pre- 
cious fragments  which  have  belonged  to  other  edifices, 
the  want  of  uniformity  with  other  parts  of  the  wall 
might  be  accounted  for  satisfactorily,  by  the  constant 
and  powerful  action  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora  in  under- 
mining this  shore.  Many  parts  of  the  wall  have  evi- 
dently been  destroyed  by  this  cause.  In  several  places, 
it  has  lately  been  repaired  or  rebuilt,  and  in  many  more 
it  threatens  a speedy  fall.  With  some  general  confor- 
mity in  the  materials  and  workmanship,  the  whole  wall 
for  the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a patcli-work  made  and  mended  at  different 
eras,  and  with  various  degrees  of  skill  and  care.  The 
difficulty  of  accounting  for  the  profusion  of  wrought 
and  costly  marbles*  in  the  foundation  remains  to  be 
accounted  for,  and  seems  to  refer  to  a reconstruction . 
after  some  great  and  general  destruction  by  war  or  the 
elements.  These  fragments  afford  perhaps  the  most 
striking  evidence  now  in  existence,  of  the  number  and 
splendor  of  the  beautiful  edifices  with  which  Constan- 
tine adorned  his  new  capital. 

At  the  distance  of  perhaps  two  miles  from  Seraglio 
point,  we  passed  a large' establishment  for  printing  cal- 
icoes, which  stands  close  to  the  water.  It  is  owned 
and  conducted  by  Armenians.  Many  samples  of  these 
goods  were  hanging  in  the  open  air  for  drying  or  some 
other  purpose.  The  figures  and  coloring  are  in  a bet-, 
ter  and  simpler  taste  than  we  should  expect  in  an  ori- 
ental fabric.  The  calicoes  seen  in  the  bazars  are  far 


808  ' 


Armenian  Quarter. 


more  gaudy.  In  this  neighborhood  is  a small  harbor, 
formed  by  an  indentation  in  the  shore  and  a sort  of  pier 
made  by  throwing  large  stones  into  the  sea,  which  is 
here  of  no  great  depth.  It  seems  to  be  occupied  only 
by  boats  and  very  small  craft — all  of  a description  very 
inferior  to  those  which  frequent  the  Golden  Horn. 
This  little  harbor  is  probably  not  used  in  winter,  and 
it  can  afford  no  adequate  shelter  during  the  prevalence 
of  any  but  northerly  winds. 

Still  farther  in  the  same  direction,  we  passed  an  ex- 
tensive region  of  the  city,  desolated  by  fire  during  the 
last  year.  A considerable  number  of  houses  have  been 
rebuilt — some  are  large  and  respectable  in  their  appear- 
ance, but  all  constructed  of  wood  in  the  prevailing 
fashion,  providing  fuel  for  another  conflagration.  This 
is  an  Armenian  quarter,  and  was  the  most  wealthy  and 
respectable  of  the  several  cantons  occupied  by  that  peo- 
ple in  the  city.  The  bankers  and  wealthy  merchants 
had  their  residence  here.  The  region  is  recommended 
by  its  facility  of  access,  being  approachable  by  boats, 
without  the  necessity  of  passing  the  heart  of  the  town. 
The  city  wall,  which  elsewhere  kee]3s  close  to  the  shore, 
makes  a detour  here,  returning  to  the  edge  of  the  water 
after  leaving  a considerable  district  extra  muros.  This 
was  involved  in  the  conflagration  like  the  greater  part 
of  the  Armenian  quarter. 

An  occurrence  which  happened  during  the  fire  in 
this  extra  mural  region  affords  rather  an  amusing  illus- 
tration of  Turkish  character.  The  people  in  their  at- 
tempts to  secure  their  household  goods  from  the  flames, 
brought  them  to  a large  open  space  in  front  of  the  gate. 


Turkish  Obstinacy. 


809 


through  which  their  secluded  residence  communicated 
with  the  city.  As  this  was  considered  the  place  which 
afforded  the  gTeatest  security,  the  accumulation  in- 
creased to  such  an  extent  as  to  prevent  all  access  to 
the  gate.  In  the  meantime  the  fire  continued  to  rage, 
and  at  length  approached  so  near  the  immense  combus- 
tible mass,  where  the  people  had  taken  refuge,  that  the 
heat  as  well  as  the  danger  became  insupportable. 

In  attempting  to  escape  for  their  lives,  they  perceived 
with  dismay  their  mistake  in  blocking  up  the  only 
thoroughfare  by  which  a retreat  was  possible.  The 
only  resource  was  a small  door  in  the  wall,  which  was 
usually  kept  bolted  on  the  inside,  as  it  was  found  to  be 
on  the  present  occasion.  The  key  was  fortunately 
known  to  be  in  the  hands  of  a Turk  who  occupied  a 
house  close  by  in  the  city.  The  calls  soon  brought 
him  to  the  gate,  which  they  requested  him  to  open  for 
their  escape. 

To  their  utter  consternation  he  refused,  alleging  the 
strict  orders  he  had  received  never  to  unlock  this  door, 
but  upon  an  express  order  from  the  pasha,  who  had 
charge  of  this  department  of  the  public  service.  They 
represented  to  him  their  desperate  situation,  their  habi- 
tations in  a blaze,  all  otlier  means  of  retreat  cut  off, 
themselves  hemmed  in  a corner,  with  the  flames  rap- 
idly approaching^ — and  the  atmosphere  already  heated 
to  a temperature  frightfully  high.  The  Turk  heard  all 
without  emotion.  He  said  he  was  sorry  for  their  situ- 
ation, which,  however,  had  not  been  produced  by  any 
fault  of  his.  Ilis  orders  were  positive,  and  he  could 
not  and  would  not  turn  the  key  without  the  pcrniis- 


310  Summary  Punishment. 

sion  of  the  j)?csha,  advising  them  to  send  to  his  resi- 
dence near  the  Seraglio,  a distance  of  nearly  two  miles, 
in  order  to  obtain  his  consent  to  opening  the  door. 

In  these  desperate  circumstances,  the  sufferers  having 
found  on  the  spot  a large  beam  of  timber,  converted  it 
into  a sort  of  battering-ram,  with  which  they  now  de- 
molished the  door,  but  only  just  in  time  to  save  the 
most  exposed  part  of  the  crowd  from  perishing.  They 
were  too  deeply  impressed  with  the  demerits  of  the  ob- 
stinate porter  to  allow  him  to  go  unpunished.  Some 
who  had  escaped  with  the  largest  measure  of  strength 
and  spirit,  seized  the  heartless  villain  and  administered 
the  bastinado  upon  the  spot.  They  immediately  re- 
ported what  they  had  done  to  the  pasha,  who  of  course 
approved  of  their  conduct. 

The  Grand  Yizier,  and  some  other  high  officers  of 
government,  with  an  appearance  of  concern  for  the 
sufferers,  not  very  often  manifested  towards  Christians, 
soon  afterwards  made  their  appearance,  and  attempted 
to  arrest  the  progress  of  the  flames,  and  protect  the 
property  and  persons  of-  the  sufferers.  As  usual  on 
such  occasions,  a crowd  of  thieves  and  pickpockets 
were  gathered  and  eager  for  prey.  Two  men  who 
were  caught  in  the  act  of  stealing  the  exposed  prop- 
erty, were,  by  order  of  the  Grand  Yizier,  thrown  into 
a burning  house  and  consumed.  This  is  the  terrible 
and  summary  punishment  usually  inflicted  by  the 
Turks  on  this  class  of  malefactors. 

"\Y e continued  our  agreeable  excursion  to  the  west 
termination  of  the  city,  and  returned  a little  before 
sunset  to  Pera.  I observed  in  returning  some  im- 


Accumulations  of  Rubbish.  311 

' mense  accumulations  of  rubbish  and  filth,  the  sweep- 
ings of  the  cityj  which  had  been  thrown  into  the  sea, 
and  rose  quite  to  the  top  of  the  wall.  Instead  of  car- 
rying these  putrefying  masses  into  the  country  to  en- 
rich the  gardens  and  cornfields,  everything  is  thrown 
into  the  sea  without  any  regard  to  the  injury  of  the 
harbor.  No  inconvenience  seems  to  have  been  ex- 
perienced as  yet  from  this  practice.  It  is  thought  by 
many  that  the  current  of  the  Bosphorus  acts  even  upon 
the  higher  parts  of  the  harbor,  to  sweep  away  all  ac- 
cumulations from  its  bottom  and  shores.  The  decay- 
ing masses  referred  to  are  objectionable  in  another 
point  of  view,  as  they  emit  an  effluvium  which  taints 
the  air, for  a considerable  distance  around  them. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

ST.  SOPHIA. 

June  29th.  By  the  politeness  and  persevering  ef- 
forts of  Mr.  Brown,  Secretary  to  the  American  Em- 
bassy, we  obtained  permission  this  morning  to  visit 
St.  Sophia  and  the  other  principal  mosques.  This 
privilege  is  granted  to  foreigners  only  upon  application 
made  by  some  .ambassador  to  the  Turkish  Secretary  of 
State  for  foreign  affairs.  The  government,  it  is  said, 
manifests  no  unwillingness  to  gratify  the  curiosity  of 
strangers  with  a site  of  their  religious  edifices,  but  they 
contrive  to  make  the  favor  too  expensive  as  well  as  too 
difficult  of  attainment,  to  be  frequently  sought.  Our 
firman  cost  about  forty  dollars,  paid  in  fees  to  the  dif- 
ferent parties  and  guardians  of  the  edifices  which  are 
visited,  and  to  three  or  four  attendants  from  one  of  the 
public  offices,  by  whom  we  were  accompanied.  Mr. 
Brown,  who  speaks  Turkish,  and  several  other  Ameri- 
cans, gentlemen  and  ladies,  resident  in  Constantinople, 
were  so  obliging  as  to  be  of  our  party,  which  was 
swelled  into  a crowd  by  strangers  of  different  nations, 
who  usually  take  advantage  of  the  issuing  of  a firman. 


St.  Sophia. 


313 


to  obtain  a view  of  objects  to  which  access  is  obtained 
with  so  much  difficulty. 

We  went  at  once  to  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  the 
pride  of  the  Mohammedans,  as  it  was  of  the  Christians 
of  former  days.  As  seen  from  without,  this  celebrated 
edifice  exhibits  nothing  remarkable  but  the  lofty  cen- 
tral dome  by  which  it  is  surmounted.  This  is  always 
an  imposing  object,  but  the  rest  of  the  building  fails  to 
produce  corresponding  effect.  The  massive  towers  or 
buttresses,  which  have  been  added  to  the  original  edi- 
fice to  give  additional  support  to  the  grand  dome, — the 
less  elevated  and  smaller  domes  that  surround  the  prin- 
cipal one, — the  great  number  of  appendages,  built  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  priests  and  other  purposes, 
which  surround  and  form  a part  of  the  mosque, — the 
multitude  of  small  domes  in  the  Turkish  style,  giving 
an  immense  extent  to  the  roof,  which  descends  in  irreg- 
ular and  ungraceful  proportions  almost  to  the  ground — 
all  tend  to  impart  a clumsy  and  heavy  appearance  to 
this  vast  pile,  and  to  mar  the  effect  of  its  general  mag- 
nificence of  design  and  the  great  architectural  beauties 
which  belong  to  particular  portions  of  the  building. 

The  four  tall  white  minarets,  always  agreeable  and 
beautiful  objects,  which  have  of  course  been  added  bj" 
the  Turks,  relieve  in  some  measure  the  bad  effect  of 
other  alterations  and  additions.  In  entering  the  main 
edifice,  we  pass  through  two  immense  vestibules,  sepa- 
rated from  each  other  and  the  interior  by  partitions  and 
folding  doors.  After  passing  these  approaches,  we  en- 
tered the  vast  and  noble  area  which  constitutes  the 
great  and  distinguishing  beauty  of  this  celebrated  edi- 

M 


314 


St.  'Sophia, 


fice.  It  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  diam- 
eter, paved  with  costly  marbles,  and  has  for  its  ceiling 
the  magnificent  dome  elevated  a hundred  and  eighty 
feet  above  the  floor.  It  is  free  from  all  the  usual  ob- 
structions of  fine  columns,  monuments,  and  statues, 
and  the  eye  ranges  freely  over  this  sublime  expanse, 
meeting  with  no  obstacle  but  a number  of  insignificant 
lamps,  and  their  contemptible  ornaments  of  ostrich 
eggs,  which  are  suspended  from  the  vault  of  the  dome 
and  descend  nearly  to  the  floor. 

Nothing  can  be  more  grand  and  impressive  than  the 
view  of  St.  Sophia.  I was  far  less  forcibly  struck 
with  the  first  sight  of  St.  Peter’s,  though  unquestion- 
ably the  Roman  church  is  very  superior  to  the  Byzan- 
tine. St.  Peter’s  is  a study  for  many  days  or  weeks, 
and  the  visitor  can  only  approach  the  grandeur  of  its 
vast  design  when  he  has  become  acquainted  with  the 
amazing  varieties  as  well  as  the  richness  and  exquisite 
beauties  of  its  parts.  In  St.  Sophia  the  general  view 
is  sublime  and  almost  overwhelming.  It  fills  the  spec- 
tator with  sublime  and  high  thoughts,  and  he  feels  that 
this  glorious  temple  is  a fitting  place,  if  there  can  be 
one  on  earth,  for  the  worship  of  an  infinite  God.  ^Be- 
sides this  area  under  the  dome,  there  is  nothing  spe- 
cially worthy  of  attention. 

'^he  dome  is  supported  by  four  immense  pillars, 
wnich,  however,  have  nothing  remarkable  but  their 
magnitude.  Between  these  pillars  are  rows  of  splen- 
did and  antique  columns,  sixteen  in  all,  which  support 
the  gallery.  The  pavement  of  the  church  is  composed 
of  beautiful  marbles,  about  fifteen  feet  long  by  four  or 


St.  Sophia. 


815 


nve  wide.  They  are  nearly  concealed  by  mats,  an  in- 
dispensable appendage  to  a mosque.  The  ceiling  is 
also  composed  of  a variet}^  of  beautiful  and  precious 
marbles.  They  are  sawn  in  very  thin  slabs,  many  of 
which  are  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  length',  and  are  so  ar- 
ranged that  the  rich  clouds  and  veins  of  various  pieces 
of  marble  harmonize,  and  have  the  appearance  of  one 
immense  block.  The  ascent  to  the  gallery  is  made 
by  an  inclined  plane,  which  might  be  mounted  by  a 
. coach. 

This  had  originally  the  name  of  the  women’s  gal- 
lery,” from  the  use  to  which  it  is  appropriated.  It  is 
very  spacious,  and  might  be  converted  into  half  a 
dozen  churches  of  convenient  size  for  Protestant  wor- 
ship. It  is  paved  with  marble,  and  supported  in  front 
by  rows  of  columns,  remarkable  only  for  the  vicious 
style  of  their  capitals.  We  were  conducted,  by  nar- 
row and  difficult  stairs,  rising  from  the  top  of  some  of 
the  lower  domes,  to  a narrow  gallery,  running  on  the 
inside  of  the  grand  dome,  only  a few  feet  from  the 
top.  It  is  only  used  for  illuminations.  The  view  of 
the  lower  part  of  the  edifice  is  very  striking  from  this 
great  elevation. 

The  dome  was  originally  ceiled  with  beautiful  mo- 
saics, formed  of  cubes  of  colored  glass,  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  square.  > This  splendid  work  is  now  nearly  de- 
molished, and  visitors  usually  contrive  to  carry  away 
a few  fragments,  which,  however  inconsiderable  one 
by  one,  will  soon  complete  the  destruction  of. this  valu- 
able relic  of  ancient  taste  and  art.  The  roguish  guides 
guard  very  carefully  against  these  petty  thefts,  but  al- 


316 


St.  Sophia. 


ways  have  some  fragments  which  they  offer  to  the  vis- 
itor for  a few  piastres.  Just  at  the  spring  of  the  dome 
are  some  frightful  figures  in  mosaic,  now  much  dilapi- 
dated, which  belonged  to  the  original  ornaments  of  St. 
Sophia.  They  were  intended  to  represent  the  seraphim 
of  Ezekiel.  The  immense  roof  and  immense  domes 
of  the  mosque  are  covered  with  lead,  as  indeed  are  all 
the  mosques  of  the  city.  Mohammedan  teachers,  with 
groups  of  pupils,  were  sitting  upon  mats  or  carpets  in 
various  parts  of  the  mosque.  Some  of  our  party  ob- 
served a great  number  of  trunks  and  caskets,  which 
they  were  informed  contained  jewels  and  other  articles 
of  value,  deposited  here  for  safety — a most  interesting 
relic  of  one  of  the  most  ancient  as  well  as  prevalent 
usages  with  which  history  makes  us  acquainted. 


I 


CHAPTER  XL. 


THE  SERAGLIO. 

From  St.  Sophia  we  proceeded  to  the  Seraglio,  dis- 
tant only  the  width  of  a street.  This  is  not  included 
in  the  privileges  conferred  by  our  firman,  but  is  yery 
commonly  opened  to  parties  fortified  with  such  a pass- 
port. It  was  opened  to  us  without  objection,  and  we 
entered  these  storied  and  almost  enchanted  precincts 
through  the  principal  gate,  which  has  some  architectu- 
ral pretensions,  but  is  much  more  distinguished  by  be- 
ing the  place  where,  in  some  niches  made  for  the  pur- 
pose, the  heads  of  traitors,  unsuccessful  generals,  and 
fallen  courtiers,  are  wont  to  be  exhibited  to  the  popu- 
lar gaze  and  execration.  It  is  or  was  a sort  of  court 
register,  where  events  of  this  description  were  an- 
nounced in  this  very  graphic  and  impressive  style. 

The  Seraglio  is  not  merely  a palace,  though  it  con- 
tains several  palaces.  It  occupies  the  entire  site  of  the 
whole  city  of  Byzantium,  the  predecessor  of  Constan- 
tinople, and  is  not  less  than  three  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. It  is  inclosed  by  an  ancient  wall  similar  to  that 
of  the  city,  and  appears  equally  ancient.  Besides  the 
royal  residences,  this  inclosure  contain^  several  of  the 


818 


The  Seraglio. 


public  establishments,  extensive  stables,  &c.,  and  more 
than  five-sixths  of  the  area  is  occupied  with  open  courts, 
gardens,  lawns,  and  groves.  It  was  into  one  of  these 
spacious  courts,  containing  perhaps  nearly  two  acres, 
that  we  passed  through  the  first  gate.  On  the  left  are 
buildings  used  for  an  armory  and  mint,  and  on  the 
right  guard-houses  and  offices  for  servants.  Here  is  an 
immense  plane-tree  forty -four  feet  in  circumference.  It 
is  hollow,  and  was  long  used  for  a coffee-house,  but  the 
entrance  is  now  closed  with  planks. 

Advancing  to  the  entrance  of  the  second  court,  we 
were  shown  the  splendid  saloon  where  the  Sultan  is 
accustomed  to  receive  foreign  ambassadors,  and  an- 
other ajDartment  where  he  sits  one  day  in  each  week  to 
receive  petitions  and  complaints  from  his  people.  These 
apartments  stand  in  the  rear  of  a thick  cypress  grove. 
Open  galleries  run  along  in  front,  and  all  parts  are 
gorgeously  ornamented  with  gilding  in  the  oriental 
style.  On  presenting  ourselves  at  the  third  gate,  it  was 
announced  that  the  keeper  was  asleep,  and  we  must 
wait  till  he  had  finished  his  nap.  Fortunately  for  us, 
the  sluggard  was  not  long  in  brushing  the  poppies  from 
his  pillow,  and  we  were,  after  a few  minutes  of  rather 
provoking  delay,  admitted  to  view  the  very  splendid 
room  which  contains  the  throne  where  the  Sultan  sits 
upon  certain  State  occasions.  It  is  approached  through 
a cluster  of  beautiful  columns.  It  is  splendidly  and 
lavishly  adorned  with  gold,  and  answers  well  to  the 
magnificent  but  ill-defined  and  indefinable  idea  which 
we  are  apt  to  entertain  of  royal  splendor  in  the  eastern 
world. 


The  Seraglio. 


819 


The  apartments  which  I have  enumerated  are  sepa- 
rate edifices,  and  not  parts  of  one  grand  palace.  In 
this  they  are  like  everything  in  the  seraglio.  There  is 
no  vast  palace,  but  a kiosk  there,  a saloon  and  cluster 
of  chambers  here,  without  regard  to  order,  connection, 
or  plan.  At  a small  distance  from  the  throne-room  is 
the  largest  structure  we  had  yet  seen,  two  stories  high, 
with  galleries  in  front,  all  richly  painted  and  adorned. 
We  took  it  to  be  the  palace,  but  were  told  it  contained 
only  servants’  apartments.  Through  a fourth  gate,  we 
entered  a long  covered  way,  which  leads  into  an  open 
court,  containing  the  column  of  Theodosius  the  Great, 
erected  in  memory  of  his  victory  over  the  Goths.  It 
is  fifty  feet  high,  and,  with  a strange  perversion  of 
taste,  is  whitewashed,  which  quite  conceals  the  texture 
of  the  marble,  and  renders  illegible  the  inscription  on 
the  base.*  This  court  is  well  supplied  with  trees,  as 
indeed  the  whole  seraglio,  to  an  extent  which  gives  it 
the  appearance  of  an  extensive  forest. 

W e next  passed  a long  range  of  stables,  and  entered 
an  ill  kept  but  beautiful  garden,  well  supplied  with 
shrubs,  flowers,  and  trees.  In  the  centre  is  a circular 
basin  of  green  water,  around  which  are  built  green- 
houses for  preserving  exotic  plants  in  winter.  Here 
are  by  far  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  ranges 
of  buildings  in  the  Seraglio.  They  consist  of  sev- 
eral very  large  halls,  designed  for  public  or  convivial 
occasions.  One  is  supported  by  a great  many  beau- 
tiful marble  columns,  and  all  are  adorned  with  rich 

* According  to  Mr.  Hobhouse,  the  inscription  is,  Fortunce  reduci 
oh  devietos  Gothos. 


820 


The  Seraglio. 


chandeliers  and  gilding.  One  of  these  halls  has  a 
beautiful  marble  fountain  in  the  centre,  with  more 
than  twenty  little  jets  of  water.  At  the  distance  of  a 
few  yards  is  an  alcove  looking  out  upon  the  sea,  fur- 
nished with  a divan,  where  the  sultan  may  at  once 
enjoy  the  refreshing  coolness  of  the  playful  waters, 
and  the  pleasure  of  a line  view.  We  were  led  into 
three  beautiful  baths,  all  constructed  of  fine  marble, 
and  fitted  up  in  the  luxurious  style  which  the  Turks 
are  wont  to  employ  in  these  establishments.  The 
apartments  of  the  women  are  extensive  and  commodi- 
ous, but  less  splendid  than  the  State-rooms.  There  is 
but  little  furniture,  and  that  little  chiefly  European, 
which  always  appears  out  of  place  in  their  oriental 
palaces.  One  wishes  to  see  nothing  but  carpets  and 
divans.  Upon  the  whole,  considered  as  the  residence 
of  a powerful  prince,  the  Seraglio  is  poor  and  mean  in 
'its  accommodations  and  style.  It  is  a heterogeneous 
and  tasteless  assemblage  of  buildings  meanly  con- 
structed at  first,  ready  to  fall  into  ruin  through  neglect 
and  want  of  repair.  The  site  alone  is  of  surpassing 
beauty. 

We  returned  towards  the  gate  of  entrance  by  a dif- 
ferent route  from  the  one  already  described.  It  led  us 
past  the  Treasury,  an  ordinary-looking  building,  but 
said  to  be  of  Byzantine  architecture,  and  through  the 
park  which  contains  many  fine  trees  and  rich  lawns, 
well  stocked  with  deer,  which  seemed  quite  gentle. 
We  visited  the  different  apartments  of  the  mint,  where 
all  the  various  processes  of  coining  are  carried  on  in  a 
most  imperfect  manner  by  clumsy  and  worn  out  ma- 


The  Mint. 


321 


chinerj.  The  silver  coins  of  Turkey  are  only  white- 
washed copper,  having  no  intrinsic  value.  We  saw 
two  or  three  bushels  of  these  worthless  pieces  in  a so- 
lution of  silver,  and  a man  raking  them  to  and  fro  to 
give  them  a shining  exterior  of  the  more  precious 
metal.  The  piastre  of  Turkey,  formerly  equal  in 
value  to  a Spanish  dollar,  has  been  reduced,  under  the 
preposterous  financiering  of  the  government,  to  about 
four  cents.  We  heard  of  an  improved  machine,  con- 
structed by  an  American  artist,  who  belongs  to  the 
mint,  by  which  the  work  of  coining  is  performed  in  a 
very  superior  style,  but  were  unable  to  get  sight  of  it. 

Our  visit  to  the  Seraglio  terminated  at  the  Armory. 
We  were  at  first  refused  admittance,  and  had  io  wait 
nearly  an  hour  for  the  superintendent.  Our  impatience 
at  this  unreasonable  delay,  was  a little  diverted  by  a 
gentleman  present,  who  assured  us  that  he  had  waited 
at  the  Custom  House  on  one  occasion  full  four  hours 
for  the  proper  officer  to  examine  his  trunks.  The 
functionary  was  asleep,  and  the  employes,  instead  of 
rousing  him,  spoke  and  stepped  softly.  When  at  last 
he  awoke,  two  attendants  aided  him  in  descending  the 
stairs,  and  having  seated  him  on  the  soft  cushions  of 
his  divan,  served  coffee  and  the  chibouk.  It  was  after 
all  this  ceremony,  that  he  at  length  engaged  in  the 
business  of  his  office,  for  which  hundreds  were  waiting. 
Such  abuses  become  more  tolerable  in  their  excess, 
than  in  their  lower  degrees,  as  they  then  assume  a 
character  of  amusing  absurdity,  which  provokes  the 
sufferer  to  laugh  away  his  vexation. 

When  at  length  the  great  man  made  his  appearance, 
14* 


322 


The  Armory. 


he  demanded  our  firman,  which  gave  ns  no  admittance, 
even  through  the  outer  gate  of  the  Seraglio,  and  having 
read  it  with  great  apparent  carefulness,  and  no  little 
pomp  of  manner,  he  signified  to  us  that  we  were  per- 
mitted to  enter  the  Armory.  It  turned  out  to  be  not 
worth  seeing.  There  were  a few  thousand  muskets 
placed  in  frames  in  the  usual  manner,  all  badly  kept. 
There  were  also  a few  suits  of  ancient  armor  and  coats 
of  mail,  A pretty  good  assortment  of  the  fire-arms  of 
different  epochs,  shows'  that  the  Turks  have  about  kept 
pace  with  other  nations  in  the  skill  they  have  employed 
in  forging  these  instruments  of  death,  having  advanced 
from  the  immense  unwieldly  instrument,  which  made 
a load  for  a strong  man,  to  the  common  matchlock, 
and  at  last  to  the  musket  now  in  common  use.  Many 
swords  and  pistols,  richly  inlaid  with  gold,  and  vari- 
ously fashioned,  are  tastefully  arranged  in  suns,  stars, 
and  crescents,  along  the  walls.  The  most  curious  ob- 
jects here  are  the  brazen  camp-kettles  of  the  annihi- 
lated J anissaries,  which  they  used  to  turn  upside  down, 
in  token  of  those  terrible  revolts  which  so  often  im- 
parted to  the  government  a corresponding  change  of 
position.  This  edifice,  now  the  depository  of  weapons 
and  munitions  of  war,  is  said  to  have  been  a Christian 
church,  consecrated  by  the  Byzantines  to  St.  Irene. 

This  was  ,the  last  day  spent  in  the  society  of  my 
valued  friends,  the  Eev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hamlin,  whose 
residence  in  Pera  had  been  my  home  during  my  stay 
in  the  city  of  the  Sultan.  With  them  and  with  the 
other  American  missionaries,  I had  enjoyed  hours  of 
delightful  intercourse.  Their  cordial  hospitality  and 


D E P A R T T;  RE . 


323 


kind  considerate  attentions,  had  contributed  greatly  to 
my  comfort,  as  well  as  facilitated  my  objects  in  visiting 
this  Oriental  city,  beautiful  for  situation”  above  all  I 
have  seen  in  any  part  of  the  world,  and  it  was  with 
lively  regret  that  I bade  adieu  to  them  and  to  the  Golden 
Horn,  and  embarked  in  the  Ferdinando  Secondo  for 
Vienna. 


V 


; 


4 


’•Ss'jf 


